Sweet! And this is the ddm apexcone kit you had laying around jcarlos? I'm assuming you installed the ballast somewhere under the headlight housing? I opened mine up yesterday and noticed a nice gap near the fender wall to fit a ballast in there.

 

Yes its the regular apexcone ballast from ddm tuning but I suggest the slim one in 55w.

 

Im just waiting for the fog light hids to come in and I will let you guys know how it goes as far as placement and wire up. Not too concerned with a bulb out warning being that they are the fogs and arent a necessity around here.

 

Got the hids in today and waiting for a good day to tackle this. Guna put in the 5k color with a 35watt ballast.

 

cool keep up posted!

 

+1 automan Let us know how it turns out. I am thinking of going HID fogs on my Clubman. I am positive you can beat the bulbout warning there by splicing in two 6 ohm 50 watt resistors across hot and ground on both sides, but I bet you can find a plug and play solution that will work too.

 

I just got the carout of the snow today and switched the scuttles to plain black. Dont like chrome that much. Im guna take the headlights out and work on the fogs from up there, much easier.
Maybe on the day that its 40 degrees over here I can work on them.
One question does the bulb out indicator come on all the time or when the lights are turned on?
This is my first time having a car with this feature.

 

I know for 2011 MCS's it comes on only during startup and then goes away afterwards.

 

so if i do change the fogs for hids and i get a bulb out warning it will only last a few seconds at start up and go off?
I can deal with that.

 

hey jcarlos, when you did your headlights which was the wire for the high beam coming off the connector on the stock side?
I got the bi xenon hid kit that has the three wires, on for the high beam to be turned on and the other two are for the low beam(one + and one -).
Or if anyone else knows let me know,
Thanks
I will be tackling this as soon as it gets a bit warmer. Just getting everything in order. I will do the fogs first then the headlamps.

 

Im really not sure what you're talking about. If you can take a pic of the connections I would prob have a better idea lol sorry man.

 

I meant the way the wires are set up in the stock plug but I think I got the answer in your pics from before.

 

just got the right hid kit yesterday and boy are there a bunch of wires lol. Being that the weather has been so crappy Im going to wait til it gets a bit warmer out. Plus I havent recieved my bulb out cancellers I ordered through another site.

 

Bringing this one back up. I have a 2011 Justa and looking for a kit. I dont want to pollute the engine bay with a bunch of wires. Anyone seen or used this kit? It claims to be bi-xenon hi/low and does not require any battery relay wiring. I wonder if it will throw bulb outs as well.

http://shop.hidcountry.com/Bi-Xenon-...kit%20hdk1.htm

 

You're better off getting a kit off ebay. Check out their BBB rating (F) http://www.bbb.org/west-florida/busi...ta-fl-90076351

 

I'm going to get a new one similar that does not run to battery. Shouldn't throw any codes. I'm getting it from hidextra.com with slim ballasts and I think it's about $100. Check it out

 

Wow...almost looks too good to be true, under $100 with slim balasts, no relay required and error code canceller!

How soon you going to put this sucker on?

 

Yea it looks good my first kit was similar and threw no codes so I'm assuming this one won't. I'm ordering it next week. My current kit is ddm and all the wires annoy me lol

 

JCarlos - Any update? You try this thing out yet??

 

Installed the kit and it pretty much sucks lol. I'm going to return it hopefully get my money back. I've decided it's better to save up and get a retrofit done professionally. Just can't seem to find a good kit without all the wiring and no bulb out codes.

 

Hey Jcarlos Long time no hear from! I've been away for a while but my old kit is still working on my 2009, no bulbouts, haven't touched a thing since I put it in. I am right in the middle of duplicating it on the 2010 but the harness is having some teething problems. I'm using a slim 55 watt AC ballast this time. The pattern has a prisim effect at the cutoff. I have no idea how they can do that with the bulb. As soon as I get the bugs out I'll post some pics. I got the kit from the same vendor I used on my 2 year old 55W kit. www.led-worx.com.


There is a new harness design out there. It looks like someone took that old harness you originally had and married that with my resistor design. It is powered from the headlight socket and uses resistors to fake out the computer. The down side is it leaves your voltage a little low. Check it out though, it is a plug and play solution that many of you may like. http://www.ebay.com/itm/180656194912...84.m1423.l2649

 

hi guys, so I drive a 2010 MCS as my dd and always thought about getting a HID kit for the headlights. Now I've installed dozens of HID kits on different cars but I'm confused as to why the stock headlight harness that connects to the H13 halogen bulb has 3-prongs. The kit I'm about to order from DDMtuning always ships with a 2-prong connector... and all the pics I see above look like you guys are getting 3-prong connectors? If anyone has any clue as to what I'm trying to say, please do let me know.

thanks.

 

Thanks smoke just ordered that along with new ballasts to use with my ddm bulbs. I really hope this finally works again!!!

Xhrl the connections with two prongs I guess you're talking about the one to the ballasts from the hids. I wouldn't recommend the ddm unless you don't mind all the wiring and using a ground an the battery as well as a bulb out light on the dash. If you want to wait till I get my things to see how this works it's up to you.

 

Let me know how that goes Jcarlos. I got a PM from namsayin and he swears by that set up.

I got my heavily wired kit working on Wednesday. Turned out to be a defective relay harness and it was not recognizing the high beam. I again have no bulbouts on the 2010. It's a lot of wires but it works. I love the pattern and will post some pics next week.

XHRL wait and see what Jcarlos has to say. The H13 bulb is a bixenon application, that why it has 3 wires. The center wire is grouund and the outer wires are the high and low beam positive wires. ON a bixenon instead of 2 filiments, the low beam stays on and the bulb physically moves inward to the high beam position. You need a relay harness to pull that off. It is the same system from a Dodge Neon or a Ford F150 if you want to check out an install on you tube. Jcarlos is trying out a new harness that allows you to power the lights form the headlight socket and it has on board bulbout canceling system. There is a chance it could flicker but that may be taken care of by how you turn the lights on (don't use auto headlights, manually turn them on after the car has started or maybe go 35 watt instead of 55).

XHRL when you do get it working post some pics of your light pattern on a white wall. I want to see if the prisim effect is a 2010 thing or if it is in the bulbs I just got.

update
My wife followed me home this evening . She was in the 2010 JCW Clubman with the 55w AC slim ballast 5000K system.. I have my trusty 55w DC ballast 6000K in the 2009 JCW. We both bought off the showroom floor so the housing is the same. Her system kicks my *** really bad. It is much brighter. It was to the point where I was checking to see if my lights were on. As far as checking glare it was the first time I got to see what the pattern looks like on the receiving end. There is no problem, no more glare than halogen. To those who still doubt my subjective assessment, my car agrees with me. It did not trigger the auto dimming rear view mirror. My only complaint is the new AC ballasts are more sensitive to voltage when you turn them on. You can't leave the car in auto headlight mode when you turn the car off because it will flicker really bad when you start the car int he garage in the morning or it may not come on at all. The DC ballasts are way less tempermental, auto position is no problem. The prisim effect while visible when shining on a wall is not visible on the receiving end.

 

I currently have these http://www.ebay.com/itm/180656194912...84.m1423.l2649 but I had the bi xenon setup and the high beam wouldn't work with these harnesses. I emailed the seller and they have a new kit without the resistors that is supposed to keep it from throwing codes! Which is great because those resistors get super hot! And need to be mounted to metal. This is going to be great! I'm returning my old ones and the new ones should be in next week hopefully. I'll take a pic and post when they come in. I even asked them if they could make the wires longer so I could mount the resistors on metal and that's when they told me they had a newer one with no resistors.