I hardwired my radar detector into my fuse box using an add-a-circuit and the cigarette lighter fuse. Then I got a scary combination of lights come some miles later (ABS, DCS, E-Brake). I took it in, they ordered some module and told me not to worry. I took it in yesterday to get the module replaced and it got shorted out again. My tech told me that the module in the fuse box knew I had hardwired something into it and was messing with the voltage to accessories (those lights). Does that sound right to you guys? It seems like I should be able to add-a-circuit no problem. They made me remove it and ordered another new module. I dont want to run that ugly cable down to the cigarette lighter, any suggestion?

 

I don't know how the wiring is in these cars as we are fairly new to owning of this BMW MINI

I do know on the BMW bikes, they are running an electrical system that is a bit different which is not user friendly in adding items. it monitors and measures the power used by any item and starts shutting things down when it sees power draws outside the acceptable range.

perhaps there is something similar here??

M

 

Did you use Fuse 36? That works on pre-07's don't know about the '07's though. See http://www.jwardell.com/mini/fusetap.html

 

I think they just using that excuse because they just dont know what caused it. The radar detector uses so little current . If you installed it just like all the other installations on Nam there should be no problem. Have you rechecked your wiring? Other people on Nam have been using the power available behind the rear view mirror with no problem. What fuse # did you tap into.?

 

What fuse did you use?

 

I have a pre-'07 model and followed the Valentine 1 write up for hard-wiring... I even have the remote wired through the steering column so its 'invisible' at night...

its been nearly a year, and I have had NO problems...

If you are uncertain, remove the hard-wiring and just run off the cig. lighter for a bit (as much as that sucks)... The cig. lighter draws more juice than the detector though (I saw the spec somewhere a long while ago...)

 

You can check the owner's manual for the V1 (mine's at home - I'll post the info tonight if no one else has), but I think the current requirement for the V1 at "full blast" is well under 1 amp. (I guess that would make sense - the fuse that Valentine provides with the hardwire kit is only a 1A fuse).

 

Use the cigarette lighter fuse. Cant hurt. I don't believe that you friend a module from a radar detector pulling that much current. They're passive devices, they pull almost nothing.

 

Well, I looked it up when I got home - the current draw for the V1, under "maximum alarm conditions" is still less than half an ampere.

I would be very surprised if adding an extra half-amp of load to any of the fuses would even be detectable, much less damage anything.

 

I used Fuse 42. The thing too is that it did not happen right after I put the radar detector in. But in the dealership, it was right away. And the lights are not always on, they will come on sometimes right when the car is started and other times not till after I have been driving a few minutes.

 

Yea I think they are blowing a smokescreen to cover their a$$. for their screwup.

 

since it is under warranty, i'll probably let them change it, let it sit for a little while and redo the radar to the fuse box. i'm not convinced yet

 

i get the same warning lights, all i can think of it being is some lights that i have wired into the side light circuit?! really odd was fine for a couple of weeks and then these warning lights. also have the forge blow off valve it wouldnt be this causing the problem would it?! :S