Drivetrain High-performance ignition key. Add 5 HP.
I have been toying with the idea of doing a similar mod, but mine would be 'reversible'. You dont have to cut the portion from the fob to remove the metal key portion, simply pull the roll pin out and withdraw the metal part.
A housing would have to be made to become the new 'fob' and to contain the transponder. I was toying with the idea of making an aluminum MINI 'wings' fob with a plastic center section that would hold the transponder and allow it to function normally.
The range of the remote is not affected by removal of the metal key. The antenna is a long track etched on the PCB.
One of the first things I tore into when I got the car was the key remote (call me crazy
) I noticed right off that there was an LED in place. Key mod or not, I think I am going to embed a small clear 'lens' in the housing near the LED so I can see it.
A housing would have to be made to become the new 'fob' and to contain the transponder. I was toying with the idea of making an aluminum MINI 'wings' fob with a plastic center section that would hold the transponder and allow it to function normally.
The range of the remote is not affected by removal of the metal key. The antenna is a long track etched on the PCB.
One of the first things I tore into when I got the car was the key remote (call me crazy
) I noticed right off that there was an LED in place. Key mod or not, I think I am going to embed a small clear 'lens' in the housing near the LED so I can see it.
>>Isn't harder to turn the ignition? That is a good idea though. If I could get an extra key for cheap I would give it a try.
Funny you mention hard ignition turning. The first time that I had tried to start the car when the steering was preloaded against the lock I could not turn the key. I thought the lock mechanism itself was jammed, and I was in the middle of nowhere!
I don't know how others' cars here are, but I can NOT turn the key without fear of breaking it when the steering is loading it. Try this to see: Once parked, and before shutting down turn the wheel so it's center is at about a 45 degree angle and stays there when released. Shut off the engine and remove the key. Now 'center' the wheel and it should click into the lock position. NOW try starting the car. You have to unload the steering from the lock (in my case) to turn the key.
Am I alone in this?
Funny you mention hard ignition turning. The first time that I had tried to start the car when the steering was preloaded against the lock I could not turn the key. I thought the lock mechanism itself was jammed, and I was in the middle of nowhere!
I don't know how others' cars here are, but I can NOT turn the key without fear of breaking it when the steering is loading it. Try this to see: Once parked, and before shutting down turn the wheel so it's center is at about a 45 degree angle and stays there when released. Shut off the engine and remove the key. Now 'center' the wheel and it should click into the lock position. NOW try starting the car. You have to unload the steering from the lock (in my case) to turn the key.
Am I alone in this?
>>I like to have my windows and sunroof opening ahead of time, as I walk up to the car---not while I stand there waiting.
>>
>>This feature alone is worth keeping it stock.
That's what makes horse racing! If I hold it down a bit too long it cracks the sunroof and/or the windows. Almost got left out in the rain. Asked the dealer if I could un-program that function.
>>
>>This feature alone is worth keeping it stock.
That's what makes horse racing! If I hold it down a bit too long it cracks the sunroof and/or the windows. Almost got left out in the rain. Asked the dealer if I could un-program that function.
>>I don't know how others' cars here are, but I can NOT turn the key without
>> fear of breaking it when the steering is loading it.
Every car I have owned was like this also. There is a small metal bar
that pokes into one of several slots (or holes) in the steering column
when you remove the key.
The bar needs to get pulled back out of the slot when you try and start
the car. If tyou are trying to turn the steering wheel, or something is
pushing on a tire which is turning the steering wheel, there is too much
pressure on the bar, and it can't slide out properly.
So, don't force the key to turn. If it doesn't turn, just give the steering
wheel a little turn CW or CCW until the key turns easily.
Otherwise, you risk breaking something, or breaking the key off in
the lock. :???:
>> fear of breaking it when the steering is loading it.
Every car I have owned was like this also. There is a small metal bar
that pokes into one of several slots (or holes) in the steering column
when you remove the key.
The bar needs to get pulled back out of the slot when you try and start
the car. If tyou are trying to turn the steering wheel, or something is
pushing on a tire which is turning the steering wheel, there is too much
pressure on the bar, and it can't slide out properly.
So, don't force the key to turn. If it doesn't turn, just give the steering
wheel a little turn CW or CCW until the key turns easily.
Otherwise, you risk breaking something, or breaking the key off in
the lock. :???:
Based on your "paces" experiment I'd have to say you've cut down on your range of effectiveness quite a bit. I can't give you an answer myself because I will be away from my Mini until June 15th, so maybe someone else with a fresh battery in their remote key can do a distance test.
I can say this. Mine starts to open up at around 30 to 40 yards or so with a fresh battery. This range requires a clear view of the Mini. As you know, nearly all the cars we park next to are bigger and shield us from "signal" view.
Also I've noticed a considerable degredation in distanced as the battery gets older.
I think it's time to change mine since I'm down to about 20 to 25 yards now.
The "Y"
I can say this. Mine starts to open up at around 30 to 40 yards or so with a fresh battery. This range requires a clear view of the Mini. As you know, nearly all the cars we park next to are bigger and shield us from "signal" view.
Also I've noticed a considerable degredation in distanced as the battery gets older.
I think it's time to change mine since I'm down to about 20 to 25 yards now.
The "Y"
>>I can say this. Mine starts to open up at around 30 to 40 yards or so with a fresh battery.
I must have failed to mention that my "pace" is about 1 yard, so
I was getting it to openat 30 yards, although I didn't get it to open
at 40 yards.
I have never replaced the battery, so it's about 15 Months old also.
I would say that if you want to use the remote from far away, you
shouldn't do this mod even though I don't think it will affect the
range. Just to be safe.
I must have failed to mention that my "pace" is about 1 yard, so
I was getting it to openat 30 yards, although I didn't get it to open
at 40 yards.
I have never replaced the battery, so it's about 15 Months old also.
I would say that if you want to use the remote from far away, you
shouldn't do this mod even though I don't think it will affect the
range. Just to be safe.
>>>>To confimr this I'd like to see a distance comparison between a stock key and the cut-off key.
>>
>>But I don't HAVE a stock key anymore :smile:
You didn't get TWO keys with your Mini?
I did. I wonder how many others only got one remote key?
I got two remote keys and the flat plastic wallet back-up key.
The "Y"
>>
>>But I don't HAVE a stock key anymore :smile:
You didn't get TWO keys with your Mini?
I did. I wonder how many others only got one remote key?
I got two remote keys and the flat plastic wallet back-up key.
The "Y"
>>Every car I have owned was like this also. There is a small metal bar
>>that pokes into one of several slots (or holes) in the steering column
>>when you remove the key.
Same with everything that I own or have owned (that was new enough to have a locking column!
). But the MINI binds up with even the slightest loading on the lock mechanism. The lock and column assembly on the MINI does have a nice substantial feel, not 'cheap' like many small cars.
>>that pokes into one of several slots (or holes) in the steering column
>>when you remove the key.
Same with everything that I own or have owned (that was new enough to have a locking column!
). But the MINI binds up with even the slightest loading on the lock mechanism. The lock and column assembly on the MINI does have a nice substantial feel, not 'cheap' like many small cars.
>>>>I got two remote keys and the flat plastic wallet back-up key.
>>
>>You dog. I got one HUGE remote, one HUGE regular and one wallet.
Okay, so NOW there is no consistency in which keys are received with the car? Jumpin' Jebus. I am sure a lot of it has to do more with the dealer than MINIUSA.
For the record, I got two remotes and one wallet key. One remote has a silver MINI logo, the other one is all black.
>>
>>You dog. I got one HUGE remote, one HUGE regular and one wallet.
Okay, so NOW there is no consistency in which keys are received with the car? Jumpin' Jebus. I am sure a lot of it has to do more with the dealer than MINIUSA.
For the record, I got two remotes and one wallet key. One remote has a silver MINI logo, the other one is all black.
>>>>>>I got two remote keys and the flat plastic wallet back-up key.
>>>>
>>>>You dog. I got one HUGE remote, one HUGE regular and one wallet.
>>
>>
>>Okay, so NOW there is no consistency in which keys are received with the car? Jumpin' Jebus. I am sure a lot of it has to do more with the dealer than MINIUSA.
>>
>>For the record, I got two remotes and one wallet key. One remote has a silver MINI logo, the other one is all black.
there is a consistency.. 2002 models come with one remote key one big one with no buttons and the wallet key. 2003 models come with what you have.
>>>>
>>>>You dog. I got one HUGE remote, one HUGE regular and one wallet.
>>
>>
>>Okay, so NOW there is no consistency in which keys are received with the car? Jumpin' Jebus. I am sure a lot of it has to do more with the dealer than MINIUSA.
>>
>>For the record, I got two remotes and one wallet key. One remote has a silver MINI logo, the other one is all black.
there is a consistency.. 2002 models come with one remote key one big one with no buttons and the wallet key. 2003 models come with what you have.
>> 2002 models come with one remote key one big one
>>with no buttons and the wallet key.
>>2003 models come with what you have.
Ah, thanks for that info. I have an 02/02 build MINI Cooper 5-speed.
so that explains it.
But I got the extra 12 Volt DC outlet in the rear.
Ah HaHaHaHahA (evil laugh)
>>with no buttons and the wallet key.
>>2003 models come with what you have.
Ah, thanks for that info. I have an 02/02 build MINI Cooper 5-speed.
so that explains it.
But I got the extra 12 Volt DC outlet in the rear.
Ah HaHaHaHahA (evil laugh)
Great idea Trippy! I'm surprised so many folks are reacting so harshly. Maybe they're getting us back for making fun of their silly body kits.
Anyway, the key does NOT serve as the antenna. Everyone can test this themselves if they wish -- just pop open the case, take out the board and press the buttons.
B.T.W. don't bother with the LED thing. It's *really* faint and you'd never be able to see it.
Anyway, the key does NOT serve as the antenna. Everyone can test this themselves if they wish -- just pop open the case, take out the board and press the buttons.
B.T.W. don't bother with the LED thing. It's *really* faint and you'd never be able to see it.
>>Anyway, the key does NOT serve as the antenna. Everyone can test this themselves if they wish -- just pop open the case, take out the board and press the buttons.
>>
Ah Ha! Then I think I'm on to a "performance mod" here.
The next mod of the key will be to inductively (or capacitively, depending) couple the output stage of the transmitter to the key shaft.
Perhaps more range *could* be obtained.
The "Y"
BTW, a single range test with only one key is easy.
Go far enough away from the car until it stops working, then just go back close enough to barely get it to work consistently. THEN pop out the circuit board and try it from that location. If it still works, then the key shaft is not in the circuit. If it quits working but works when reassembled, the key shaft is an antenna. Ta Da!!
>>
Ah Ha! Then I think I'm on to a "performance mod" here.
The next mod of the key will be to inductively (or capacitively, depending) couple the output stage of the transmitter to the key shaft.
Perhaps more range *could* be obtained.
The "Y"
BTW, a single range test with only one key is easy.
Go far enough away from the car until it stops working, then just go back close enough to barely get it to work consistently. THEN pop out the circuit board and try it from that location. If it still works, then the key shaft is not in the circuit. If it quits working but works when reassembled, the key shaft is an antenna. Ta Da!!
We now need a new plastic mold for the keyfob board. Think it could be made smaller than the current case? The biggest problem I see is the height of the battery holder. There is no circuit under the holder, so they could have used an SMT holder and reduced the height of the 'back' by 0.175". Of course while we are redesigning the keyfob, they could have used a Microchip rfPIC or rfHCS362, done away with the oscillator and the SAW resonator and just used a simple crystal.
>> Of course while we are redesigning the keyfob, they could have used a
>>Microchip rfPIC or rfHCS362, done away with the oscillator and the SAW
>>resonator and just used a simple crystal.
How about a master/slave type of thing?
Use an rfPIC as a transmitter, and an rfPIC receiver in the car which just
pushes the buttons on the original remote PCB using FETs or whatever.
If you have experience with either one of these guys, I'll gin up some
PCBs from someplace like Olimex and give it a whirl.
>>Microchip rfPIC or rfHCS362, done away with the oscillator and the SAW
>>resonator and just used a simple crystal.
How about a master/slave type of thing?
Use an rfPIC as a transmitter, and an rfPIC receiver in the car which just
pushes the buttons on the original remote PCB using FETs or whatever.
If you have experience with either one of these guys, I'll gin up some
PCBs from someplace like Olimex and give it a whirl.
The LED mod might not be too bad an idea after all, it would be an indication if the battery is dead or the remote is not functioning.
Problem? It's a RED LED. Blue at the 3v VCC is not an option, so match the orange LED goodness of the interior instead!
>> The MINI key is the same key as they use in the Discovery
>>OMG an SUV key being used for a MINI
Don't give anyone any ideas. Land Rover will make a downsized SUV like Toyota's RAV4 and call it a MAXI Cooper!
That'll mean more keys to mod!
Problem? It's a RED LED. Blue at the 3v VCC is not an option, so match the orange LED goodness of the interior instead!
>> The MINI key is the same key as they use in the Discovery
>>OMG an SUV key being used for a MINI
Don't give anyone any ideas. Land Rover will make a downsized SUV like Toyota's RAV4 and call it a MAXI Cooper!
That'll mean more keys to mod!


