i dyno'ed my car this morning for the first time. i have an 04 s model,93 octane gas with only one mod an m7 16% pulley.i don't have a scanner or any other device to put the graph on the thread.sorry about that.i live in florida and it was about 80 degrees at the time of the run.dsc was off as was the airconditioner. the pull was done in 4th gear used 6500 rpm as max.the run netted me 164.94 whp and 160.21 torque,the a/f was running 13:1 at 4000 rpm at 5000 rpm it was 12:1 at 5800 rpm the ecu pulled timeing and the a/f dropped to10:1 but it could have been lower as the scale ended at 10.my question is did this occur because of the knock sensor or too much heat or something else??

 

Probably a knock sensor detected knock and retarded the timing and dumped fuel to kill the knock. You could confirm the knock sensor theory by running a log of the OBDII codes concurrent with the dyno test, but the combination of timing retard and a/f tanking is as close to a textbok response by the MINI to knock as it comes.

 

I saw 4 different cars do much the same thing on a dyno day. 5,800-6K range. No A/F readings but timing retarded and IAT was high. The IAT may also be a reason for the fuel dump.

 

thanks for your reply but the question is how do i get around this? colder plugs, higher octane is out of the question,and i'm not moving?

 

You could try colder plugs as a first step. But I doubt you would solve the issue of timing retard and a/f dump. Next step would be a 180 degree thermostat. But again, I doubt you would get to a solution. Intercooler sprayer/larger intercooler? You are probably looking at a combination of all three. But worst case is that you still get timing retard and a/f dump. If that happens, you have a very simple decision - back off the mods or go with higher octane fuel.

 

ok thx,i agree with the plugs and i'll try the thermostat,bigger intercooler is really getting expensive for only one mod on the car don't you think?

 

I run the colder Iridiums and have the GRS IC.
Dyno fans don't help much here.

I've never seen, but would like to see, if the 180º thermostat does anything to help this fuel dump. Data may be out there I just haven't seen it. Some running the 180º have ahd problems throwing codes on cold days. Not huge deal for most but something to be aware of.

Pretty much what caminifan said

 

thank you obehave,when i do something i'll report back on this issue.the temp in florida isn't going down for sometime to come.if only m7 will give me a free thermostat to test out.

 

By the way, maybe ice the intercooler before dyno runs. You won't be getting such high IATs when you're actually on the move...a dyno fan isn't strong enough to provide realistic airflow

 

Exactly.

 

Turbo, did you have a bung installed for the a/f probe, or were they taking a reading with a tail pipe sniffer? If they were using a sniffer, I would not rely on the a/f numbers.

 

When I did my dyno runs, I took a garden sprayer with ice water in it and an infrared pyrometer. I would check the whole surface of the IC and start each run at the same temp. This also left some surface spray on the IC, which would burn off during the run and would make for an interesting visual effect, with the fans running.

Before and after IC temps were also checked with the pyrometer and what made a big difference was instead of doing the runs in 4th, Make your runs in 3rd. The temperature doesn't go up nearly as much.

 

thank you all for your suggestions,i'll try a 3rd gear pull and maybe the m7 intercooler is looking better and better all the time.i know it's expensive but i need peace of mind.i have owned three eagle talons, a wrx and an srt4 and never had this problem.

 

yes 62 lincoln i agree with you,it was done with the tailpipe sniffer and i know the readings are not as accurate as a bung on the exhaust system.when i do get a system i will have a bung welded on so i can use an o2 sensor.but untill then i have to use these numbers as a reference point.

 

It's the best air to air IC I've seen.
Don't compair a turbo with a blower, there are too many different factors.
I believe that your dyno test heat soaked the IC & more ( the under hood temps are very high even on a cold day ). After reading 1 of the threads ( having to do with insulateing the air box, CAI..... ), I went to the local S&S, got some dry ice & packed it on the IC with a thermal blanket. If you pack some ice cubes on the IC, the effect will last longer. If you try it, you might like it......

 

thx stevecars60 for your input,i have seen guys at the track using ice and yes your right about turbo's. i have a lot to learn about this car.

 

Just when you figure everything out, it will be time to get the newer MINI (R56?) with a turbo engine; and you can start learning all over again....

 

Turbo Black, http://www.modacar.com/products/Mini...N-tercool.html check this out. I know a guy right down the street with an STI, he tells me it is worth 50hp when it's hot outside. He's using Co2.

 

thank you stevecars60, you have turned the light bulb on with this one. the m7 intercooler is coming with connections already in place, this would be ideal to connect to the intercooler.the price is very good also.hey misfitoy where did you put the bottle???

 

I won't tell you where to put the bottle, but I want a DFIC also. You need to post after the install with a little seat of the pants result..

 

Don't know what the cost of nitrous or CO2 is to charge the bottle (plus how convenient is it to get the bottle charged), but it would seem that a water mister that sprays water on the IC would get you pretty close in reducing the temperature of the IC. You only need to get close enough to where the ECU does't retard timing and dump fuel. Plus, even distilled water is much easier to get and should cost less....

 

Co2 is realatively cheap, much cheaper than NOS. I would say for a 12# bottle it would be less than $30 & as low as $16 and Co2 is easy to get ( I have done a ton of mig welding with a 16# bottle at 6# presure - you will use full bottle presure or close to that with the system in the link so there's no telling how long a bottle will last - advantage - it is realy quick & cold). That said, somewhere I saw a DFIC with a sprayer on it and it looked pretty good.

 

An additional $16 to $30 on top of a fillup seems a bit much to pay. The variable is how long the bottle of CO2 would last. Distilled water is something like 30 cents per gallon (less if you get your own distillation unit). I think that maybe the solution is a DFIC with a water misting application.

 

The CO2 sprayers have been done. Bisch ran one close to 3 years ago.
The issue with them was that you'd get CO2 picked up by the induction system. I'd think the AGS woiuld be particularly susceptible to this whereas the OEM or Dinan box less so.

Just something to keep in mind.

 

Another reason to go with a water misting system for the IC....