Drivetrain Performance Computers...
Performance Computers...
Ok, I've looked but haven't found a thread on this...
Given that the different types of performance computers all require different calibration methods, including different manual settings, what are some of the "standard" settings that apply to most Minis?
Also, what are some of the results people are getting from their performance computers for overall HP? For 0-60? For 1/4 mile? What about g-force for turns, acceleration and breaking?
I am wanting to validate that the values I'm using for settings as well as getting as results are in the ball park.
For example, I've just gotten an Escort G-Timer GT1, Escort's simplest and least expensive ($100) performance computer. Though very simple, it does require some interesting manual data settings in order to produce reliable overall horsepower readings as well as g-force and run readings...
Here, again as an example, is a list of these settings for the GT1 and the values I am currently using. Your suggestions are welcomed...
1 Car Weight -- You must enter your car’s weight for accurate horsepower
calculations. Default is 2000 pounds.
I'm using 3000 pounds, stock 2678 + ~200 for me + ~100 for gas, tools and family-car goodies. We are definately not in racing trim here.
2 Pitch characteristics of car -- The way your car tilts back during acceleration. Default is 2.0 degrees per G, typical for most cars.
I'm using 1.5 degrees, about that of a Corvette.
3 Roll characteristics of car -- The specific way your car leans during cornering. Default is 3.0 degrees per G, typical for most cars.
I'm using 2.5, again about that of a Corvette.
4 Clear Best Runs -- The unit remembers the “Top 10” 0 to 60 and Quarter
Mile times from all the runs you have ever timed. This lets you erase those figures.
No default.
5,6 HP Min Speed and HP Max Speed -- The Performance Computer calculates your car’s horsepower between two speeds. These set the speed range. Defaults are 30mph and 60mph.
I have been using 30 and 50 to keep the test easily in 2nd gear, but will probably move up to the default max of 60 and simply rev higher in 2nd, I'm guessing my HP readings will be higher with the higher revs in 2nd (near 6k rpm).
7 HP Factor -- This is a correction factor you can set for an approximate conversion from wheel horsepower to engine horsepower. Default is 1.00 (no correction).
I'm using the default. I've decided to wait to set this, since I have no baseline whp or bhp and this entry could significantly skew my HP results. Interesting that they used the term wheel horsepower here in the descriptioin instead of overall horsepower, which is really the HP reading that the GT1 and most other performance computers provide.
8 Meter Maximum -- This sets full scale for the Bar Graphs used in the G-Meter displays. Default is .80G.
Display only, this doesn't change results. I'm using the default.
9 Peak Hold -- This sets the time that peak values are held on the “Peak Hold” G-Meter display. Default is 4 Seconds.
Display only, this doesn't change results. I'm using the default.
10 Sound -- This turns the beep tones on and off. Default is On.
Audio only, this doesn't change results. I'm using the default.
11 LCD Contrast -- Adjusts the contrast of the display. Default is 15.
Display only, this doesn't change results. I'm using the default.
12 Show Run Data -- This lets you choose what information to display after a timed run. Default is to display All Run information.
Display only, this doesn't change results. I'm using the default.
13 End Timed Run -- You can choose to end timed runs automatically, or time
each run for 30 seconds. Default is Automatic.
I'm using the default.
14 Brake Test -- You can choose to include “60mph to zero” brake testing in timed runs. Default is Brake Test Off.
I'm using the default.
15,16 Speed Rollout, 1/4 Mile Rollout -- You can select the criteria to start timed runs, both for speed measurements (0 to 60, etc.) and for distance measurements (1/4 mile, etc.), to match timing methods used by drag strips and professional testers. Default is 12 inches.
I'm using the default.
17 Trigger -- G-Force criteria to start timed runs. Default is .10 G.
I'm using the default.
18 Clear User Calibration -- This can be used to confirm the accuracy of your Performance Computer. See details under “Service.”
No default. Basically clears all initializing calibration so g-force readings should be 0.
19 Factory Default -- Lets you restore all settings to factory default.
No default.
So, those are the settings of the GT1. Again, your suggestions for any of these settings are welcomed.
I'm still working on driving consistantly. Once I start getting consistant overall HP readings I'll start posting them here.
Best,
-- Don
Given that the different types of performance computers all require different calibration methods, including different manual settings, what are some of the "standard" settings that apply to most Minis?
Also, what are some of the results people are getting from their performance computers for overall HP? For 0-60? For 1/4 mile? What about g-force for turns, acceleration and breaking?
I am wanting to validate that the values I'm using for settings as well as getting as results are in the ball park.
For example, I've just gotten an Escort G-Timer GT1, Escort's simplest and least expensive ($100) performance computer. Though very simple, it does require some interesting manual data settings in order to produce reliable overall horsepower readings as well as g-force and run readings...
Here, again as an example, is a list of these settings for the GT1 and the values I am currently using. Your suggestions are welcomed...
1 Car Weight -- You must enter your car’s weight for accurate horsepower
calculations. Default is 2000 pounds.
I'm using 3000 pounds, stock 2678 + ~200 for me + ~100 for gas, tools and family-car goodies. We are definately not in racing trim here.
2 Pitch characteristics of car -- The way your car tilts back during acceleration. Default is 2.0 degrees per G, typical for most cars.
I'm using 1.5 degrees, about that of a Corvette.
3 Roll characteristics of car -- The specific way your car leans during cornering. Default is 3.0 degrees per G, typical for most cars.
I'm using 2.5, again about that of a Corvette.
4 Clear Best Runs -- The unit remembers the “Top 10” 0 to 60 and Quarter
Mile times from all the runs you have ever timed. This lets you erase those figures.
No default.
5,6 HP Min Speed and HP Max Speed -- The Performance Computer calculates your car’s horsepower between two speeds. These set the speed range. Defaults are 30mph and 60mph.
I have been using 30 and 50 to keep the test easily in 2nd gear, but will probably move up to the default max of 60 and simply rev higher in 2nd, I'm guessing my HP readings will be higher with the higher revs in 2nd (near 6k rpm).
7 HP Factor -- This is a correction factor you can set for an approximate conversion from wheel horsepower to engine horsepower. Default is 1.00 (no correction).
I'm using the default. I've decided to wait to set this, since I have no baseline whp or bhp and this entry could significantly skew my HP results. Interesting that they used the term wheel horsepower here in the descriptioin instead of overall horsepower, which is really the HP reading that the GT1 and most other performance computers provide.
8 Meter Maximum -- This sets full scale for the Bar Graphs used in the G-Meter displays. Default is .80G.
Display only, this doesn't change results. I'm using the default.
9 Peak Hold -- This sets the time that peak values are held on the “Peak Hold” G-Meter display. Default is 4 Seconds.
Display only, this doesn't change results. I'm using the default.
10 Sound -- This turns the beep tones on and off. Default is On.
Audio only, this doesn't change results. I'm using the default.
11 LCD Contrast -- Adjusts the contrast of the display. Default is 15.
Display only, this doesn't change results. I'm using the default.
12 Show Run Data -- This lets you choose what information to display after a timed run. Default is to display All Run information.
Display only, this doesn't change results. I'm using the default.
13 End Timed Run -- You can choose to end timed runs automatically, or time
each run for 30 seconds. Default is Automatic.
I'm using the default.
14 Brake Test -- You can choose to include “60mph to zero” brake testing in timed runs. Default is Brake Test Off.
I'm using the default.
15,16 Speed Rollout, 1/4 Mile Rollout -- You can select the criteria to start timed runs, both for speed measurements (0 to 60, etc.) and for distance measurements (1/4 mile, etc.), to match timing methods used by drag strips and professional testers. Default is 12 inches.
I'm using the default.
17 Trigger -- G-Force criteria to start timed runs. Default is .10 G.
I'm using the default.
18 Clear User Calibration -- This can be used to confirm the accuracy of your Performance Computer. See details under “Service.”
No default. Basically clears all initializing calibration so g-force readings should be 0.
19 Factory Default -- Lets you restore all settings to factory default.
No default.
So, those are the settings of the GT1. Again, your suggestions for any of these settings are welcomed.
I'm still working on driving consistantly. Once I start getting consistant overall HP readings I'll start posting them here.
Best,
-- Don
Originally Posted by chows4us
I don't have one of these fancy widgets but I think #7, HP correction factor of 1.0 is going to skew you way off as in too high. I think most ppl will say drive line loss is between 12 - 15%
They didn't make it clear, but the #7 HP correction factor is actually a multiplier, such that 1.0 is really the uncorrected overall horsepower multiplier value. 2.0 would be twice that value, etc...
The highest value I've gotten so far for uncorrected overall HP is 110. That is real life; unlike wheel HP and break HP, it takes into consideration temperatures, traction, wind resistance, road, hills, anything that you are up against in any real driving situation.
So, for example, if I used a multiplier of 1.7 with that 110 overall HP result, at 187 we're probaby getting pretty close to a realistic comparison for true bhp given my mods and inexperience with timed runs for producing this value -- but I would need lots more practice getting consistent values, and probably would also need to tweak other setup values for better accuracy before committing to that multiplier.
Best,
-- Don
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