Drivetrain (Cooper S) MINI Cooper S (R53) intakes, exhausts, pulleys, headers, throttle bodies, and any other modifications to the Cooper S drivetrain.

Drivetrain Need some Real answers on ECU's!

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Old Mar 14, 2006 | 01:33 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by MiniMeg06
... for all you so called think you know it all engineers! jlm what do you manufacture? Girl Scout cookies? ... for you who don't, keep your damn mouth shut!

Dude, very uncalled for comments when people are trying to help you.
 
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Old Mar 14, 2006 | 03:14 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by MiniMeg06
To all that may care? I can't dip the shaft of the SC rotor in liquid nitrogen so I will need to heat the pulley to install it on the shaft! I WILL NOT SLAM IT! I will tap it lightly! Thru my High school years I work in a Aircraft turbine engine repair shop. This is the way they assemble aircraft engines for all you so called think you know it all engineers! jlm what do you manufacture? Girl Scout cookies? How in the hell do you think they installed the 1st. reduction pullys! I'm sorry to you who do know what your talking about, but for you who don't, keep your damn mouth shut!
As for the Milltek I like the sound and it has some of the best HP! That won't make you go hard of hearing.
Actually doofus, John MADE the first reduction pulleys.
They did it the smart way.

Now take that hammer and tap your empty head lightly.

You were commenting on the cost per $. What? are you now backing out of that argument? Now the MIlltek is OK even if the $/HP exceeds your previously stated OMG that's stupid expensive factor?

You're rude and ignorant. Please leave. <-- Pretend that's not a thumb
 
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Old Mar 14, 2006 | 03:24 PM
  #28  
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Has this guy yet to see a pulley puller?

if you can get a pulley off the SC without one, be sure to let me know! If your torching on that SC pulley, you better be careful not to heat up that shaft too much, your gonna damage the bearings in the SC.
 
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Old Mar 14, 2006 | 03:31 PM
  #29  
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i've been on this forum too long for my own good.
shove it minmeg06
 
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Old Mar 14, 2006 | 03:43 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by MiniMeg06
To all that may care? I'm sorry to you who do know what your talking about, but for you who don't, keep your damn mouth shut!
MinMeg06, I think the one that has shown the least amount of intelligence is you! Yes we understand the different proccesses of installing pulleys. We also know how to communicate with a civil tongue.

By the way JLM, I received one box of peanut butter cookies, but haven't seen the other box I ordered yet, or the chocolate mint either. If you intend to manufacture cookies, you better be able to meet supply & demand.
 
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Old Mar 14, 2006 | 03:57 PM
  #31  
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Long day?

Originally Posted by jlm
i've been on this forum too long for my own good.
shove it minmeg06


Matt
 
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Old Mar 14, 2006 | 04:00 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by MiniMeg06
To all that may care? I can't dip the shaft of the SC rotor in liquid nitrogen so I will need to heat the pulley to install it on the shaft! I WILL NOT SLAM IT! I will tap it lightly! Thru my High school years I work in a Aircraft turbine engine repair shop. This is the way they assemble aircraft engines for all you so called think you know it all engineers! jlm what do you manufacture? Girl Scout cookies? How in the hell do you think they installed the 1st. reduction pullys! I'm sorry to you who do know what your talking about, but for you who don't, keep your damn mouth shut!
As for the Milltek I like the sound and it has some of the best HP! That won't make you go hard of hearing.
Hmmm, well I was going to give you some advice based on personal experience. But since you seem to know more than everyone else, I will pass. Good luck trying to get the pulley back on the s/c shaft. I guess you will know if you have been successful if you don't shred your timing belt (and by extension, bend the valves (or worse)) at speed.
 
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Old Mar 14, 2006 | 04:11 PM
  #33  
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So, without getting pissy...

Originally Posted by MiniMeg06
To all that may care? I can't dip the shaft of the SC rotor in liquid nitrogen so I will need to heat the pulley to install it on the shaft! I WILL NOT SLAM IT! I will tap it lightly! Thru my High school years I work in a Aircraft turbine engine repair shop. This is the way they assemble aircraft engines for all you so called think you know it all engineers! jlm what do you manufacture? Girl Scout cookies? How in the hell do you think they installed the 1st. reduction pullys! I'm sorry to you who do know what your talking about, but for you who don't, keep your damn mouth shut!
As for the Milltek I like the sound and it has some of the best HP! That won't make you go hard of hearing.
This won't work very well. The JCW pully is a friction fit, and doing what you propose wont get the pully onto the right place on the shaft. The way they do it at the factory is with the right assembly tools, that none of us have. all of the new multi-piece aftermarket pulleys use the end of the shaft as a limit to set length onto the shaft.

The JCW pulley isn't sold as a separate part, so the only ones that can be found have been pulled off of a shaft, usually without heating, for the previously mentioned reasons of not overheating the sealed SC front bearings and seals.

I'm sure in your work on aircraft engines you also learned to understand the system you're working on, use appropriate tools, and the proper methods.

Also, remember these cars aren't new, while it may be new to you. There are people here who have done what you want to do, and learned the hard way what works and what doesn't. You might want to think about that as you get advice that doesn't make much sense to you, and instead of doing the online equivalent of throwing a tantrum, find out why you're being pointed in a direction that doesn't make sense to you. It's a faster way to learn, and doesn't make nearly as many negative impressions.

FWIW...

Matt
 
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Old Mar 14, 2006 | 04:14 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by caminifan
I guess you will know if you have been successful if you don't shred your timing belt (and by extension, bend the valves (or worse)) at speed.
Hmmm. I'm not sure I understand that one myself.
And I'm not being sarcastic.
The supercharger pulley belt is the only belt that could be shredded from an incorrectly installed supercharger pulley.
That belt is also connected to the a/c compressor, alternator, lower harmonic balancer/pulley and a belt tensioner & idler pulley.
It shouldn't have anything to do with the timing of the valves.
Is the sudden loss of boost detremental to the engine valves?
 
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Old Mar 14, 2006 | 04:16 PM
  #35  
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I don't think he'll loose his valves...

but he will loose his cooling....

already lost his cool!

Matt
 
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Old Mar 14, 2006 | 04:25 PM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by jlm
i've been on this forum too long for my own good.
shove it minmeg06
 
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Old Mar 14, 2006 | 04:51 PM
  #37  
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Guys, lets keep it on topic and no flame wars please..
 
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Old Mar 14, 2006 | 05:13 PM
  #38  
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to his credit, minimeg offerred me an apology. (PM)
 
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Old Mar 14, 2006 | 05:20 PM
  #39  
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jlm,
Sorry for the harsh words!
Your the one who started the smart comment! I'm not the smartest one out there, but I'm not completely stupid. I was just trying to get some help, and you are the one who came up with the smart comment! I only fired back. You are the one who supposedly did some of the 1st pulley installs. So, if you truly want to help, why don't you tell me why I can't reuse a JCW pulley? I was given a JCW pulley for free, and I was just trying to make use of it! As for the ECU's, I'm not touching the stock one or wires, or anything else.

Randy
 
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Old Mar 14, 2006 | 05:35 PM
  #40  
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Living online requires growing some pretty thick skin lol.

Btw maximusmini how did you know i knew stef? And I'd be really interested once you finish developing your product
 
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Old Mar 14, 2006 | 07:56 PM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by Dr Obnxs
but he will loose his cooling....
Yes, and if the engine overheats at speed, wouldn't one of the collateral results be bent valves? In a previous life, I had a 1986 VW GTI that had a coolant hose burst at speed. In literally ~6 seconds (the time it took to pull over to the side of Hwy 101 near SFO), the engine was toast.
 
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Old Mar 14, 2006 | 08:02 PM
  #42  
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Originally Posted by BLIZZ
The supercharger pulley belt is the only belt that could be shredded from an incorrectly installed supercharger pulley.
That belt is also connected to the a/c compressor, alternator, lower harmonic balancer/pulley and a belt tensioner & idler pulley.
I thought the s/c belt was also a drive belt for the water pump. If not, then I am mistaken and I take back my prior posts about engine failure (from overheating) from a shredded s/c belt.
 
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Old Mar 14, 2006 | 08:03 PM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by MiniMeg06
To all that may care? I can't dip the shaft of the SC rotor in liquid nitrogen so I will need to heat the pulley to install it on the shaft! I WILL NOT SLAM IT! I will tap it lightly! Thru my High school years I work in a Aircraft turbine engine repair shop. This is the way they assemble aircraft engines for all you so called think you know it all engineers! jlm what do you manufacture? Girl Scout cookies? How in the hell do you think they installed the 1st. reduction pullys! I'm sorry to you who do know what your talking about, but for you who don't, keep your damn mouth shut!
As for the Milltek I like the sound and it has some of the best HP! That won't make you go hard of hearing.
Please, someone translate for me - I'm lost
 
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Old Mar 14, 2006 | 08:24 PM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by Larry Clemens
Please, someone translate for me - I'm lost
I am sort of bored at the moment (cabin fever from getting felled by the latest iteration of the flu bug - and the flu shot didn't prevent the onset of this flu bug; wonder why??? ), so here goes:

Originally Posted by MiniMeg06
To all that may care? I can't dip the shaft of the SC rotor in liquid nitrogen so I will need to heat the pulley to install it on the shaft! I WILL NOT SLAM IT! I will tap it lightly!
The JCW (as well as the stock) pulley is a shrink fit to the s/c shaft. To fit, you either have to shrink the s/c shaft (hence the reference to dipping the shaft of the s/c in liquid nitrogen) or expand the pulley (by heating cause it has to shrink back down after being fitted). The comments about slamming versus tapping go to how to best fit the pulley onto the s/c shaft.

Originally Posted by MiniMeg06
Thru my High school years I work in a Aircraft turbine engine repair shop. This is the way they assemble aircraft engines for all you so called think you know it all engineers!
Presumably this part of the response was to establish MiniMeg06's credibility to attempt the proposed course of action. However, the MINI engine is not an Aircraft turbine; so, what may work on an aircraft engine may not work on the MINI engine.

Originally Posted by MiniMeg06
jlm what do you manufacture? Girl Scout cookies? How in the hell do you think they installed the 1st. reduction pullys! I'm sorry to you who do know what your talking about, but for you who don't, keep your damn mouth shut!
This sounds mostly like gratuitous character assassination (otherwise known as flaming). It certainly doesn't seem to apply to fitting the JCW (or stock) pulley to the s/c shaft.
Originally Posted by MiniMeg06
As for the Milltek I like the sound and it has some of the best HP! That won't make you go hard of hearing.
If memory serves, there was a discussion of cost per hp earlier in the thread. Someone questioned the decision to invest in the Milltek cat back exhaust when there are other modifications that provide a better return in h/p & ft/lbs for the investment.
 
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Old Mar 14, 2006 | 08:28 PM
  #45  
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Originally Posted by caminifan
I thought the s/c belt was also a drive belt for the water pump. If not, then I am mistaken and I take back my prior posts about engine failure (from overheating) from a shredded s/c belt.
The water pump is belt driven. Losing the belt DOES cause overheating eventually.
 
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Old Mar 15, 2006 | 04:54 AM
  #46  
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Nicely done
 
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Old Mar 15, 2006 | 06:31 AM
  #47  
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Originally Posted by caminifan
I thought the s/c belt was also a drive belt for the water pump. If not, then I am mistaken and I take back my prior posts about engine failure (from overheating) from a shredded s/c belt.
caminifan...You are correct the supercharge belt does power the water pump as well. I should know that... I just installed my m7 16% this last saturday morning. I think you got me of coarse by calliing the supercharge belt the timing belt.

BTW my original pulley is NOT in good condition. I used the smaller puller that is a flat circle with a half C shape to grab the pulley. It bent the livin schnit out of my original pulley, even with loosening several times and trying to rotate.{I used this style puller so I wouldn't have to remove the belt tensioner...lazy a$$ that I am} I don't have any experience with the 2 halfs style pulley like what jlm manufactures so I am not sure if could reuse a pulley removed with it, But I would be cautious using a used pulley.
 
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Old Mar 15, 2006 | 09:33 AM
  #48  
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Originally Posted by BLIZZ
caminifan...You are correct the supercharge belt does power the water pump as well. I should know that... I just installed my m7 16% this last saturday morning. I think you got me of coarse by calliing the supercharge belt the timing belt.
My appologies for any mis-communication. My brain has been a bit off from this damn flu bug. I am just starting to get back on my feet.

Originally Posted by BLIZZ
BTW my original pulley is NOT in good condition. I used the smaller puller that is a flat circle with a half C shape to grab the pulley. It bent the livin schnit out of my original pulley, even with loosening several times and trying to rotate.{I used this style puller so I wouldn't have to remove the belt tensioner...lazy a$$ that I am} I don't have any experience with the 2 halfs style pulley like what jlm manufactures so I am not sure if could reuse a pulley removed with it, But I would be cautious using a used pulley.
I tend to doubt that even if you had used another style of puller, the original pulley would have been able to be re-used. It is on pretty tight, and any pulley puller will cause some distortion in the pulley.
 
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Old Mar 15, 2006 | 05:15 PM
  #49  
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Caminifan,
This thread started b/c I was looking for some help / info. I wanted to know if ECU / Remapping / Engine Management. tuning was advisable after I do a few reliable engine / performance mods. 1st. I installed a Dinan CAI. Would have preferred a JCW CAI ( I prefer the stock look.) And the Dinan was over a $100.00 less. 2nd. I am going with a Milltek cat back system. Not cheap but a GREAT system & deal for what you get! $664.05 delivered. 3rd. I was thinking about / wanting to install a removed / used JCW pulley. Super cheap and I have seen one installed on a non JCW car! I was getting some GREAT feedback and some not so great feedback on the ECU info. Then the feedback started to get off track about the pulley I was thinking of installing. I got a "smart" comment about the install of the JCW pulley. I was getting tired of it, so I fired back! I apologize for my return comment; it's not my style! Both comment's were uncalled for. I should have let it go. 99% of Mini owners would give the shirt off there back to help a fellow Mini owner. Looks like I upset a lot of Mini owners, for this I'm sorry! I just truly wanted someone who has done or tried to do what I was thinking of doing with the JCW pulley.
Thanks,
 
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Old Mar 15, 2006 | 05:21 PM
  #50  
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Life goes on....

I'm sure we'll all be fine....

Matt
 
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