norm, that's it in the photo, with the sender threaded in...

jlm, no thumb on hole needed... Remember, the stock drain plug has been out since I installed the stock sender plug, which still remains until I get some time one night...

Not sure I understand that rule of thumb, but I've only read it once during this busy morning... Thanks as always for chiming-in!

Neil, thank you sharing your experiences, and with that, further confirmation.

 

They made it easy - you just have to lie on your back... The Aux gauge uses a replacement drain plug with an imbedded sender. I saw it first hand when I had to tighten the drain plug the monkey, er, technician, failed to fully tighten, thus leaking on my garage floor. Guess that's better than torquing it with an air gun...

 

Speaking of which... b4 I post in the marketplace, anyone interested in this MINI drain plug/sender? To be used with the MINI's selected oil temp gauge, of course .

 

Hmm, not mine - just a plain ol' drain plug. This is with the factory option Chrono pack, not the after-the-fact aux gauge.

Neil
05 MCS
96 M3

 

rule of thumb explantion: as you use a bolt with deeper and deeper thread engagement, eventually a tension load on the bolt will cause the bolt to separate rather than the threads to pull out. for normal threads, this is about 1-1/2 times the bolt diameter, for a steel bolt in a steel thread. Deeper than that and you gain no more, shallower and you risk stripping out the threads.

 

I follow what you're saying... In referring to thread depth, you mean the valleys; the deeper the better for improved bite, to a point, until too deep jeopardizes integrity.

While that makes sense, I'm not sure if that addressed my concern - sufficient length of the threaded area (not the depth of the threads, per se). So, if let's say there was only enough thread for just half a turn of engagement before tight, that would not be as favorable as several complete rotations, all else being equal, right? The stock plug definitely goes in further, or has more thread length for insertion, contacting more surface area making for less liklihood of vibration loosening it. Hope that makes sense...

And, if your earlier explanation actually addressed that, I apologize.

 

Actually Tony, I think jlm is talking about thread depth meaning the amount the bolt goes into the hole (threaded area.) i.e. an 8mm wide bolt should be threaded 12mm deep - at that point the head of the bolt is as likely to rip off (seperate) as the threads are to pull out.NeilM - Interesting. The chrono pack must use a more integrated sender, as it comes from the factory. I'm curious to know where it is...

 

Eric, I appreciate the clarification on the wording. Depth of the threads vs. how deep the threads go... Clear now... Got a helpful PM from k-huevo sharing that the threads into the pan stop-out at 13.7mm, due to a shoulder. 1.5 wouldn't be possible anyways here...

So, with a better understanding now (thank you), it does indeed appear that my bushing would be better if longer. Would it be prudent to put a dab of Loctite (blue, removable) on the threads, or is there something else that I can do as a precaution?

 

is this available for the early 04's i wonder?

 

make sure nothing can stick into the pan interior more than the stock oil drain plug, which flushes out with the inside wall of the pan.

 

Well, jlm was right, on two accounts: the thread specs, and that I would lose about 2 tablespoons of oil during the switch .

The plug snugged-up really nice. I'll check it a couple of times over the next week just to make sure all is well. Drove about 2 hours today, and I'm finding that operating temps to be much more of what I expected. With ambient in the high 60's, I saw around 190 to 195 cruising on the freeway in 6th, about 75 mph. After some semi-spirited driving for a couple of minutes, it went up to 210 or so (TDC of the gauge).

Looks like I can check this off my list! Thanks guys.

I put the MINI sender in the Marketplace. Shameless plug, for those interested:

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ad.php?t=53882

 

As a matter of record, I thought I should report back to say that this set-up gave me temp readings very much in-line with what others got, even at different locations. That is the good news...

The not so good is that I was getting a bit of oil dripping-out around the threads. I say "was" not because I fixed it, but because after attempting to snug-it-up a tad, I snapped the dang thing in two! Suffice it to say, I lost about a quart of oil, and won't be driving her into work tomorrow...

After quickly locating a bolt to insert into the female threads still within, I was very happy that when I backed it out, it removed the portion that broke-off. The stock plug is back for now...

I'm going to order another bushing, but I really think this thing needs, like the stock plug, a rather large, reinforced rubber washer. If anyone has any ideas, let me know. Thanks.

 

Bummer.. I would have wrapped half the threads with teflon tape. Only half so that the sensor would still be grounded.

 

I was going to put teflon tape on with the next oil change, but I should have not waited... Being frugal is going to cost me with this decision . I still think that this thing needs some type of washer though... Thanks for chiming-in Norm. Get some sleep my friend...

 

Don't know how I missed it before, but after finding a How-To on a Miata guage install, AutoMeter actually makes this NPT/metric conversion! It also appears to have more threads... It's about a buck more total, with shipping (15 something):

http://www.prostreetonline.com/buy/a...adapters/2267/

 

Solder on a wire for a separate ground and use teflon tape.

Or use liquid thread selant, you may not need the wire...

When I was getting some fittings for my mustang, I could order then with the lug for the ground, or ground through the part. Don't know if you can get a sender that does that with the right cal, but it would be best...

Someting things that shouldn't be a pain sure cause it!

Good luck with the fix.

Matt

ps Kitty litter is good for cleaning up the oil!.

 

threads designed to be liquid tight are tapered. the pan has straight threads; you need a washer for the seal to woek with confidence.

 

jlm, I appreciate the confirmation on the washer. I will look for a copper one as I doubt that I can find something like the MINI's...

You said that "threads designed to be liquid tight are tapered". Just for my own knowledge, is this also so for gases? I'm guessing so... Thanks.

 

TonyB, did this story have a happy ending? Were you able to find a washer that resolved the leak?

I'm intent on installing the Autometer 4347, with an oil temperature range of 100-250 degrees, and would like to follow your route using the Autometer NPT/metric conversion for the sender in the drain plug. This thread has been extremely informative - thanks to all the contributors!

 

Totally forgot about this thread... I re-ordered from the link most recently provided, and if I recall correctly, it had a copper washer. If not, I did somehow get one...

I've had no leaks, and all has been fine with my readings still.

 

Thanks for the affirmative - I'll be following in your footsteps on the oil temperature gauge install.

 

don't forget there's no big load on there. they are using brass after all.

 

Hey guys, if this has been referenced before I missed it, but, a direct replacement oil drain plug to fit the Mini oil pan and the 1/8th fitting that is on the end of most elect. eng oil temp sending units, can be bought directly from 42 Draft Designs. I used their drain plug with my SW gauge and it works perfectly because it is designed to be an oil drain plug threaded for an oil temp adapter. Their contact info is: Phone#443-623-4848 or www.42DraftDesigns.com. Part #42-908 which sells for $9.95, plus shipping. Hope this helps!
Rich B.

 

Where can I find replacement copper crush rings for the metric adapter used to replace the OEM oil drain plug - at local car parts stores? Would I ask for a copper crush ring to fit a M14 size male thread? Is it advisable to replace the crush ring each time an oil change is done? Thanks!

 

Apologies in advance for the noob question, but will the copper sealing ring on the bottom of this page (part# N-013-849-2-M131) work as a replacement for the sealing ring that comes with the M14x1.5 Autometer adapter?
http://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/...pg2.htm#item10

I assume that 14 x 18mm means that the ring is 14mm ID and 18mm OD?