hmm, thats really why i havent added this to my list of mods it seems that b4 this larger IC makes greater gains it need not be in the spot where it currently is (OEM) if it were set up much like the VW's and WRX cars then mayb i would see the benefit.....but the boost increasin' with this sutch mod is weird! NO?

is it as much boost increase as an underdrive pulley...........

 

Andy,

Thanks, that was an interesting (if long) read, and explains the HAI question.

Neil

 

100% agree.. although i would LOVE a bigger IC, at the end of the day its still a TMIC rather than a front mount (where it needs to be).

 

I beleive there were a few companies making air to air FMIC's, whatever happened to them?

 

huh, someone agrees......not use to this
i feel theres a lot of mystery on here when it comes to this subject bout larger top mount IC, but its no mystery too much heat soak for this mod to work where its at and the design of our mini cars doesnt help.

 

there r but cant find them now that i own a mini and have looked for them,

mayb they couldnt make a dime since everybody seems to be liking the gains their getting w/these tooooo expensive ic that for the money/design dont pan out!?!?!?!?!

 

randy webb @ webbmotorsports has one

 

Here is another piece of diverter copied from TonyB's design... It took me about 3 hours to get it done... with my own sweet time. I hope it works well like Tony's...Thanks man!

 

thx. but way out of my price range for what it is right now.

hope to see more competitors take on a 'real gains' type of mod like this.......:smile::impatient

 

Where did you get the molding for the diverter? I can not seem to find something like that anywhere. Also, what size is the sides of the diverter? I am either thinking of modifing the stock cover or making a new one.

Garrett

 

I don't know where the author got his, but JC Whitney has all kinds of rubber seal strip material, in just about any shape you can imagine, for just about any vehicle ever sold in USA.

BTW, throughout this entire summer (90+ degrees heat, high humidity) I routinely log on my PALM Dynoscanner an average of 13 degrees cooler post IC IAT with my GRS IC as compared to OEM IC.

 

Wow, that is contrary to what I got using BiM-Com on multiple, controlled runs. The GRS didn't cool as well...

 

That's interesting, Tony. I wonder if they both monitor the same sensor and if their voltage to temp lookup tables/conversion are correct?

If all else is equal, and BiM-COM can repeat once its past Beta testing, I'd certainly trust a Ross-tech product over Auterra.

Ciao!

 

Ya, I was a little demoralized to see the results. We like to have validation of purchases, especially pricey ones... I have a thread somewhere here with Excel sheets and charts. The GRS did get more boost, contrary to popular belief that we should be happy with minimal to no loss in pressure... While the GRS benefit was difficult to discern, the larger hood scoop (M7) showed a resounding benefit, to stock, and the GRS ICs...

 

I like the catch can. That sure beats spending $130 on something like that. But I have ONE addition I would recommend. There needs to be something visual that let's you see if it is filling up. Not sure the best way to do that, but I would want some way to "know" if the can was filling up with something it shouldn't be...

Once I figure that piece out (or someone here recommends something cool)...time to start building.

 

Very Nice


did you feel a difference after you mounted the diverter?

 

Feel a difference as in performance, I'd have to say no, but then I actually haven't had the opportunity to really gun it since... BUT, I do "feel" an improvement when touching the GRS.

Before the diverter, to the touch, the front portion of the GRS was noticably hotter than the rear, where I'm guessing the vast majority of incoming air went, ignoring much of the surface area in the front. I created the diverter based upon the belief that incoming air was not being spread accross, and through (downward) the IC's surface area very well. My stock IC didn't feel this way, but then it has something to direct air to the front, as does the Alta. This just further validated for me that I needed to do this... not to mention my data-logging results...

Now, I cannot detect a difference in heat on the GRS, so it seems that the diverter is doing it's thing. And with parts in my scrap bin, it was a freebie.

 

You could always just use a long stainless bolt as a dipstick. Rubber gasket under the head to prevent leaks and you're good.
Or threaded rod with a knurled **** on the end.

 

would a pickle jar be a good sight glass?

or are they only good to keep alcohol in (for the IC of course).

BTW whats the best alcohol?

 

I just wanted to post my hand fabbed ic diverter.









Garrett

 

Hey man, nice work! I used to have those with my stock IC. Works fine.

 

damn ur all over the place!!! NiCE job!! u wanna sell a copy of ur rear seat delete?

 

If I had the time I would love to help out. But would not want to go against anyone who is willing to seel a nice design! I just tooke a 3/4 piece of plywood and cut it to the size of the inside. I took a tape measure and measured each part of the inside of the car and then marked it up on the plywood. I think it tooke me 30 minutes to have it measured and all cut to fit nicely! As for the carpet, that is a whole other story lol. I think I re-did the carpet 3 times before I was happy with it. I am one of those types that will redo something until I am satisfied! :smile: But I like the outcome of this piece and am very happy with it. But there is always room for improvement! As for the air diverter, thanks for compliments! When it comes to making something yourself, I love the feeling that you accomplished something good! And it shows how far your skills can go when in the process. As much as it can be frustrating at times when making something, it is also fun to do.

Garrett

 

nice work on both diverters....

can you guys tell me what gauge aluminum you used for those?

Also, it looks like you guys just pop riveted the "L" section to the main plate, is this correct?

thanks!

-jac

 

For mine, I just pop riveted the 90 degree aluminum. As for the gauge of aluminum that I used, I beleive it is 1/8 thick. For the slanted portion of the diverter, I used metal epoxy to bond it to the aluminum. Just a tip if you do not have the resources to weld the pieces. Also I had a hard time finding the rubber seal material. I tried a local shop that deal with doing work on trunks, they will most likely carry the rubber seal. It is considered trunk seal molding.

Garrett