As I wrote earlier:

That makes sense. If you are driving in conditions where the bypass would be open in stock configuration, but where the byass would be closed with the VGS, then the air coming out of the supercharger will be hotter with the VGS.

Ryephile's your testing showed the bypass closing at 1 inHg (965 mbar absolute) and opening at 15 inHg (491 mbar absolute) in its stock configuration. Since the downstream MAP (manifold pressure) tends to average about 150 mbar higher than the upstream MAP (pressure in the connecting pipe between the throttle body and the supercharger) in daily driving, it stands to reason that the bypass is closed more often with the VGS than it is stock.

Of course, when you let off the gas completely, the VGS configuration will let the bypass open completely just like stock and when you floor the gas completely, the VGS configuration will let the bypass close completely just like stock.

 

I have the VGS installed on my otherwise stock '02 MCS and find the throttle response much improved and the annoying "yo-yo" and "stumble" seem to be a thing of the past.

After my next "motor" I'll have to see just how hot the plenums are.

 

well, i knew that as soon as Andy started posting on my thread in an attempt to solve my current situation without any help providing a solution that it would turn into something like this.... any way that we can either get back on focus with this thread (hate to TRY and be the center of attention, considering i was asking a question about fixing a problem), or continue this discussion that doesn't relate ANYTHING to what i was previously talking about---or maybe BOTH!

i have posted my responses from the OBDII port scanner, and heard nothing of a reply, so i called Peter and asked if he knew anything about this.... he stated that ALL of the errors have been produced because of the poor sealing job the gasket has done to the supercharger, though i am not satisfied, and won't be until all the errors have been eliminated from the ECU once a fix has been made - his suggestion is to remove the AGS tube, remove the gasket that was RTV'ed by yours truly, and reinstall a new gasket that he is sending me, along with the 180 degree thermostat they finally have in stock

am i being unreasonable in thinking that ALL those codes haven't been produced by the gasket sealing issue? have others experienced the same error codes from gasket sealing issues? (question previously posed, restated) is there something i have done that may be causing this error, something disconnected that i cannot see readily?

thanks for the help, and thank you for continuing to stay on topic!!!! makes for better discussion that way, you know....

 

hate to say it, but the tb and tb harness are prime suspects. unfortunately, with the AGS it might not be so easy to swap tb's w/ the harness to trace the problem.

 

I don't see how it would be any different than without the AGS. I've swapped that TB out myself, in fact. Yes, there is more work to get to it, but if you've taken the bumper and stuff off before it's not gonna take more than 30 minutes?!? Swapping the _TB_ is a simple plug and play, then. Frankly, I don't see the big deal...it's a chance to swap out your coolant for fresh fluid ! J.k. Just prop the radiator fan assembly up on a barrel or something and save yourself the hassle! Good luck, Mike! And, I hope the hurricane doesn't do ya any damage. Florida's greetings!

 

how will you trouble shoot the harness?

 

well Peter has done some reassuring today - says he has gotten the same error codes when there is a leaking vacuum problem due to the bad gasket sealing - can't wait for V2!!!!!!!!!

i had some issues connecting my stock throttle body harness to the extension since a slip of an air tool when pulling the tranny broke the tiny tab that connects the stock TB harness to the TB - i coulda punched out a headlight at that time, but good thing i've got duck / electrical / aluminum tape to repair or keep together anything!!! haha, aluminum tape is pretty damn strong, hadn't used it much in the past, but WOW

hurricane is currently passing overhead (or slightly further south from the Orlando area), so i think we're good - another hour and it'll be gone, but got the day off work as it is!!! lucky me!

 

I would get a second opinion:

• P1688 / 5768 - Electronic throttle control monitor level 2/3 mass air flow calculation
• P1229 / 4649 - Throttle sensor adaptation failure
• P0222 / 546 - Throttle / pedal position sensor / switch 'B' circuit low
• P0107 / 263 - Manifold absolute pressure / barometric pressure circuit low input

From a vacuum leak? It sounds more like an electrical problem with either the throttle body or from the wiring between the throttle body and the ECU. How can a vacuum leak cause the electrical signal from the throttl'es pedal position sensor to have too low of a voltage?

 

he's right dude. High and low input signals are caused by bad connections. I looked up and found info. in my modern vehicle tech book from school. The book used the exact codes my car was throwing in it's example which kinda shocked me.

Getting V2 in will at least get rid of the air leaks, that's a start. Just don't rule out your harness.

 

right. so which is the culprit:

• stock TB harness
• M7 TB harness extension
• stock TB plug physically on TB

??? what's really freaking me out is the fact that my AFC does not register any throttle input percentage, as explained before.... granted my connector tab isn't holding the two plugs together, but how hard is it to put female to male and male to female?!?! or is there something else going on - as earlier reported (tabs on M7 wiring harness plug not getting good signals from input)?

 

alright, i'm still having issues with this car (note the date of the first post on this thread - we've been working on the stereo project as well here and there, so it hasn't been down the whole time just for motorwork) but here's the status so far.... i've gotten the car to run for at least 10 mins straight right now, but its got a REALLY rough idle.... symptoms are:

• near atmospheric pressure being read from both boost gauge and A'PEXi AFC
• throttle pressure changes minorly affect actual throttle response, meaning ECU doesn't like me trying to give it more gas, so it doesn't allow injectors to dump more fuel
• when throttle is pressed, rough idle becomes more prominent at different pitch, so i figured something is wrong with spark (timing is computer controlled and cannot be changed)
• plugs were removed and will be gapped accordingly - they were supposed to be gapped to 0.065 but i didn't do that per the suggestion of others with the same setup who didn't gap them
• plugs are blackened without being TORCHED (white in color).... plugs that were removed from another MINI with just 100 miles on it looked the same, they turn black real fast on this motor
• oil catch can was dumped before i started working on the motor about 5 months ago, from all the starting and stopping, no oil was found in the system when opened up again today - using factory hose to "bypass" the catch can as it was setup from the factory in case there is a pressure leak somewhere in the system
• gas tank is 1/2 full with OLD gas, i want to dump it traditionally but not sure about the anti-syphon thing if there is one on these cars
• oil has been changed, coolant has been changed, but not filled completely - only coolant has been added, no water has been added yet as new 180deg thermostat hasn't opened, car hasn't warmed up that much to open yet

i think that's about it so far........ again, full mods list is available here (updated with the new parts installed)

www.mikegarcia25.com/modslist.htm

any suggestions? i'm really lost now, and need to get this car running ASAP.... stereo project is just about completed and i don't want the motorwork side of things to hold be back from being able to enjoy the car, as i could care less about having a $10K stereo system installed on my car while its parked!!!

 

Wow Mike...I'm sorry to hear this hasn't been resolved If you're getting near atmosphere readings at idle, this is a clear sign that you have a vacume leak. I notice that you have the AGS as do I. This happened to me after my first install. I had vacume under idle but at -5 instead of the usual -12 (Autometer). Throttle response was very sluggish and rough. After some trial and error, I eventually fixed the leak and the problems went away. I can only imagine if you had a major air leak, these symptoms would be as you described. I don't know if you have mentioned whether you had reinstalled the OEM intake or not but that may be worth doing to eliminate the intake system as a cause of your symtoms.

 

Are you able to get any maximum boost readings at all? Are there any hissing sounds under the hood?

 

it sounds just fine from under the hood, i'm not getting any hissing or any other sounds of a vacuum leak.... i'm not leaking any fluids either for that matter! argggg, i'm calling Peter per his request, he can troubleshoot it over the phone i hope!

 

Mike...have you tried putting the OEM intake back on? This would tell you if the leak is pre SC or not. If the situation is the same with OEM intake parts, then your problem is further up stream.

 

haven't tried that because the last time i installed the AGS using the V2 tube replacing the V1 tube, i'm almost 100% sure that the seal around the gasket was perfect - i REALLY don't feel like going back through it and pulling it all back off, especially since i don't have another gasket to replace it, and obviously don't have the stock throttle body either....

if push comes to shove, Peter and have discussed turning the V2 into the V3 tube that is machined or aluminum or something, forgot which he said, but i'm going to try the 400cc injectors and new plugs first before redoing all that if it isn't the culprit - but you think it is? yikes, that's not good!!!

 

Sherlock Homes..."When one has eliminated the impossible whatever is left, however improbable, must be the truth."

 

i hate it when you're right, Sid.... but it happens a lot!

i'll look into it next time we're working on the car - should be today or tomorrow, today looks like its out, tomorrow most likely

 

Hope to see your Mini purring at MOTD06 Mike

 

well i was about to say that i'd expect an electrical fault due to the open-loop nature of the ECUs timing/injection etc when under WOT.

 

i wish...... doesn't look like it'll happen though - just got promoted from nothing to SOMETHING and got a lot of work ahead of me.... didn't plan for MOTD like i should have, might try and get up there anyways, i'll rent something and tear it up trying to keep up with you again!

plus i doubt the car will be ready for it like i had planned.... i got kinda screwed over after graduating college last May, so the car sat and suffered for a while.... which is why i'm just now getting back into it because the money situation is finally settling out! we'll see how it goes, trying to get some money together so i can just blow this all out, get up there, and suffer through it later - i mean, its only money, right????

ugh, i need all the help i can get on this car right now........ i'm even sufficing to have RX7, Supra, 240SX, 300ZXTT, SRT-4, and Honda tuners helping me out with this!!!! how LOW is that?!?!

 

Your conditions totally sounds like a vacuum problem. Except the P codes are indeed strange...the TB problems (and the resulting P codes) may have been intermitten as wiring problems usually are and the P code just remained there while your main problem is a vacuum leak. You might want to take it to the dealership and ask them to give you a print out of the faultcodes w/ their conditions and fault frequency as that would help in determining the REAL culprit.

I'd go w/ MSFITOY's advice and replace the AGS with the original airbox to at least eliminate the possibility of a vacuum leak on the intake side.
Hunting down vacuum leaks is definitely not fun.

 

well, got most of the car back together today, started installing THIS:

http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/x...cat=252&page=1

at the same time, and got stopped up when one of my intercooler bellow clamps BUSTED - yeah, broke towards the end where the screw goes into the socket..... i have the aftermarket Ultrik bellows, but who sells NEW CLAMPS?!?!? these things are garbage! i know i'm going to need to buy a whole new set because the other ones are on their way out too apparently!!!

 

Eek! sorry about your clamps blowing, I haven't heard of this to be a wide range issue...I have no idea who might be selling an aftermarket part for this. Dealer part might have to suffice while you hunt down a stronger part.

Hopefully maybe your problems will go away when you replace the clamp

 

Any news on that topic? I have the same error codes.