Why?

 

I really don't want the info bandied around on this site to either prove or disprove a manufacturer/vendor claim. I've seen enough Minis dyno'd to know that when it comes to mods, Your Results May Vary. I don't want to have to spend any time defending my dynos or any other crap that may accompany posting them.

Having said, that, once I scan the dyno, I'll pdf it and send you a copy. All I ask is that it doesn't show up in a thread.

 

That makes no sense. Why did you say:

... then ...

 

Yeh, I think it was. I took it off the car (sold it) and it runs fine...but
it just didn't have the punch the UNICHIP was able to give me up high
so just went with the 15% pulley. I don't have a piggy back on my car
right now cause I haven't had the funds to get a new one and get it
properly tuned.

been working on my other car...so. :smile:


>I don't believe your unichip comments are consistent with many other people's experience.


mtrspt5- i wouldn't argue with you on that one, if it was they would
be out of business by now. I had several discussions with Tony
over there at Unichip and once with Randy (i bought my Unichip directly
from Unichip), but I decided to just part with it and get the 15%
installed instead...which was installed by Randy.

Car runs good enough for me for now but I still miss the pull the
UNICHIP had up high.

 

Makes perfect sense to me:

I posted my experiences, including numbers, in response to the original poster's questions.

If you would like proof of those numbers, I'll get them to you. I have no wish to have my dyno plots referred to by Vendors or Forum members - it's a personal preference. If someone wants to use a dyno in the future to make a point, whether it be to "diffute" or prove a claim, I don't want it to be mine.

I really don't want to be any more specific than that. If you'd like to explore this further, feel free to drop me a PM.:smile:

Cheers.

 

Ah, numbers. The most coveted yet sometimes the most despised objects in NAM.

 

Somehow I knew you'd understand!

 

I've had the unichip installed for about 1 1/2 yrs so far. I run the "B" map exclusively summer and winter without problems.

I picked the piggyback solution so I could remove it when I had to visit the dealer as I have had problems in the past with refusal to do warrenty work due to mods. This was a main factor in my choice.

I also have a problem with sending something as important as the ECU accross the country to someone to re-flash. What happens if they go out of business? Look at the problems some people had getting re-flashes of the powerchips software.

As for performance, I couldn't tell much difference, (using the butt dyno), with the "A" map but the "B" map is noticeably stronger. Not 15% pulley stronger but still noticeable.

For me the rev limit is not an issue, I perfer to short shift at 6000 rpms and use the engine torque to pull to the next gear.

If I had it to do over I might get a bigger IC instead of the unichip but mainly because my IC is dinged up (bent fins).

 

Get both for bigger smiles.

 

dang it, your link took me to some single's site.

 

My kid disabled the anti-spyware program - should be fixed now.

BTW:Meet anyone?

 

Andy - your recommendation regarding my question?

 

im married and have a kid. you're going to get me in trouble.

 

Just installed the Unichip and Alta Big Air. Nice change in the A map, pulls like crazy in the B map. Guess where I'll keep it from now on?

04 MCS, sport pkg, 15% pulley, Alta CAI, Alta Big Air IC, Unichip, Milltec exhaust,Densos

 

Well Andy? What is a better solution than the UNIchip? You've been so keen on bashing it, yet you haven't bothered to offer an alternative.

 

Ha! Why does your post remind me of this?

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...&postcount=628

Anyway, I'm running the GIAC chip, for which there are several examples of real dynos posted on NAM showing positive before and after gains ... unlike the Unichip for which there are ZERO examples of real dynos posted on NAM showing positive before and after gains. MTH also has shown to deliver gains, from actual dynos that have been posted here.

Your list is funny:

*need adjustable fuel and ignition maps

Myth Busted: Users cannot adjust these with the Unichip. You need to pay lots of money for dyno time and tuning at an authorized Unichip facility to have someone else tweak them. Even after doing that, where are all the before and after dyno plots? Why haven't users posted them?

*needs to be under $1k

Myth Busted: See above. Who has paid under $1k for the Unichip+Dyno Time+Tuning?

*not willing to give up e-gas or cruise control functions

Myth Busted: I haven't seen any aftermarket chips that cause you to "give up e-gas or cruise control functions". Are you comparing Unichip to replacing the fuel injection system with Weber carbs? Red herring.

*not concerned with observable OBDII data

Myth Busted: If you're not concerned with diagnostics, then remove the bulbs from your warning lamps and tear out your diagnostic socket. Hope that none of the safeguards put in by the factory are there for any reason.:impatient Red herring.

*do not need to adjust redline

Myth Busted: I'm not sure if you've ever done a driving school / autox /etc but it's sometimes useful to exceeed 6950 rpm, for example when exiting a corner where the straight is too short to justify shifting into the next higher gear. If you don't need that extra headroom, then you won't use it anyway. Red herring.