I've been searching for a solution to eliminate the mechanics and headaches caused by the clutch linkage in an R53 and finally found one. I'll post more about it if there's interest, but here's the replacement so far.

R53 specific Hydraulic TOB vs Meh

 

I am interested. The clutch and throw out are on the list for replacement next year. So this is by Clutchmasters? Did you source it with them from a different vehicle?

It looks like you needed to modify the fork?

 

Here's a write up to give it context...
Since my car is mostly used for tracks, I have been struggling to keep a throwout bearing (TOB) from imploding for the past 5-6 years. I've been through a handful of clutch manufacturers (stock, Valeo, Luk, Giken, and Clutch Master) and inevitably the TOB failed, never outlasting the clutch. During my last session this year, I started feeling the clutch get stiff/notchy and knew that the TOB was likely failing yet again. Pulled the transmission and sure enough, the TOB was toast. Bummer. I'm of the opinion that this linkage design was not up to the task - too many moving pieces, a plastic slave that's a PITA to bleed, and the TOB, except for Gikens, with plastic that likely melts when things get hot. So, I called the only guy I know that's still creating parts for these cars and he came up with this solution.

In the picture above, everything on the left replaces everything on the right. The install is super simple. I won't go through that here b/c there are so many threads on clutch installation. Everything is the same except the following the following:

This is a clutch master kit for the R53 (or 6 speed Getrag). My last clutch was clutch masters FX400 8-puck which I really liked. But on this one you're going to pull the slave cylinder and this kit comes with all the lines you need and an adaptor plate that replaces the OEM guide tube. TOB sits on top of the adaptor.



Here's the lines installed on the TOB and running out of the hole in the bell housing.




Line on the left is bleed line. Line on the right is from the master cylinder. On the right of the TOB you can see the connector that goes in to the OEM line once you pull the OEM slave cylinder out.




You'll see the one line with a brake bleed nipple on the end – that’s the bleed line. Super simple to bleed with a motive brake bleeder. Took me longer to set that up than bleed the clutch. No seriously. It was easy.




Here's a picture of the connection to the OEM line. This took 5min to connect.

Here's a link to a short video of the TOB working:

TOB Installed and Functioning

I'm still in the break in miles but I can tell you this thing is the best engagement I've had of any of the clutches I've used. The pedal is smooth and consistent, but you can still feel the engagement point without a problem. The FX400 had a little bit if clatter in 1st even with the 8-puck. This clutch you feel none of that and the engagement is instant. I'm looking forward to hitting the track in a few months. And while we're here this clutch is completely street-able. I'd venture to say it feels like the OEM dual mass it’s so smooth.



Here's the rest of the set up:.

 

Very interesting! I'm likely looking at a clutch replacement next year and this upgrade seems worthwhile. Are you looking to make it "stock compatible" or do you think it will likely be designed to mate to a specific clutch kit?

 

For now I believe its mated to this specific clutch and flywheel. I think its based off clutch masters SS series. Could the TOB work with other clutches? Probably but not certain. This works right out of the box. I have about 270 break in miles to go and its still easy to drive.

 

Hoping that it will, either currently, or in a future related version, work with the CM FX350 and aluminium flywheel....