When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I hope others that may have the ECU or planning on getting one will post here also so that people can learn about the installation and advantages of a standalone ECU.
I had one of these before in a 2005 MINI Cooper S it was a lot of fun, I had the Launch Control feature turned on but had not got to the No Lift Shift function. That car ended up in a big debacle and I moved on from it.
An opportunity came for this nicely equipped 2006 MINI Cooper S, it had been setup with some track parts installed. I don’t really care about the track parts and I am in the process of removing most of them and taking the car back to a pretty much stock configuration.
The performance upgrades I will do:
OEM JCW 380cc Injectors
GTT Stealth Airbox
OEM JCW Exhaust
Boost Gauge
15% Pulley (already installed on the car)
So my goals for the car:
Install the Link ECU
Install Link G4+ CAN – Lambda Wideband O2 sensor
Have it tuned & Launch Control & No Lift Shift Setup
Install an OBDII connector on the LINK ECU so that my Garmin Camera will interface with it (using Bluetooth)
Drive the car, makes lots of loud obnoxious noise!
Physical installation of the ECU is pretty ease and straight forward, turn the car off and let the ECU go to sleep. Remove the factory ECU and plug in the new Link ECU. Connect a Laptop to the Link ECU via the provided USB interface, unlock the ECU, install the newest version of firmware and a base tune and start the car. It really is that ease, for that part.
To actually tune the car you need knowledge of what you are looking at when using the provided LinkG4+ software (I don’t have this knowledge). You will also need a Wideband O2 Sensor installed. On my previous 2005 I have a standard 0-5v+DC wideband. Link did not have the CAN-Lambda version at the time. So this time I will be installing the LINK wideband. This is slightly more involved you need, the LINK wiring harness, a relay, and an OBDII connector (if you want the OBDII functionality).
This setup is not a cheap option so I do not see most people going in for it. The ECU is 1200$, the CAN-Lambda is another 300$ and you will need another ~30$ for the connector cable. Then you still need to install it and program it/tune it.
I will post more here as I go along with the installation, setup and configuration. I would like to encourage anyone that has one already or is interested in the ECU to post in this thread also, I really do want to share the knowledge.
I have the MINILink G4+ in my R53 race car. It has an ENDYN big valve head, SneedSpeed R53 big intake plenum, stock cam advanced 10 degrees. 9.3 /1 compression pistons. Presently has stock supercharger pulley.
Uses the stock MINI sensors plus MTX-L 4.9 wideband Lambda sensor, and DIYAutoTune CAN-EGT for individual cylinder EGT.
Been refining tune for several months now. Initial tune done by local race shop tuner. Car will have certification dyno done in time for 2019 race season. Tune is being done with 100 octane race gas. Will convert (back) to E85 once timing is finalized.
Attached is the current tune file. Still needs some work / about 85% done. May need to install JCW pulley to get to the HP needed for GTS2.
I have the MINILink G4+ in my R53 race car. It has an ENDYN big valve head, SneedSpeed R53 big intake plenum, stock cam advanced 10 degrees. 9.3 /1 compression pistons. Presently has stock supercharger pulley.
<snip>
An Endyn Head - neat never actually saw one of those, I know he stopped doing heads a good while ago, he was really skilled and had some really interesting ideas.
Thank you for commenting and I hope we can share some information. Are you doing the final tuning on the ECU/Tune?
I have built out motors before, but dont really wish to do that as all of my MINIs are road drivers, so I just want fun and reliability now.
What's the OBD2 functionality like? Asking because the yearly tech inspection over here includes an OBD2 check... they hook up a fault code reader to check if there are any active faults.
What's the OBD2 functionality like? Asking because the yearly tech inspection over here includes an OBD2 check... they hook up a fault code reader to check if there are any active faults.
I dont know if that will work, there was some take a few years ago when LinkECU first added the OBDII functionality about passing emissions test that plug in to see, I live in Florida so we dont have that, but someone in one of the states that does that said it would not work as there was no Readiness indicator . Now I dont know exactly what that means you might want to start a new thread about the OBDII functionality of the LinkECU or join the LinkECU forum and ask it there.
I'm also running the Link ECU with CAN-Lambda. Current setup is 16% pulley, RMW BVH, RMW shortly header, 550cc injectors, Dominator cam, JCW intake and GP intercooler. Will soon be switching to 1000cc injectors and adding an E85 kit.
I've been running this setup for about a year and a half.
What consists of installing the XS Expansion loom to use an AEM UEGO wideband? I know the case has to be drilled but is that all? I haven’t even opened my Link box yet to see what it even looks like.
I believe Co0p3r has some pics of the inside of his first Link that he could post. It will show the spot where the expansion harness should be plugged in. The software itself is very intuitive. If you're not sure of what something is, right click on it and click "what's this". It will open the help file with a detailed explanation.
Hey, why would you want to add an e85 kit? You have a total access to engine tune settings with your standalone ECU. You can tune it for E85, It would be mucher better than adding a kit.
Hey, why would you want to add an e85 kit? You have a total access to engine tune settings with your standalone ECU. You can tune it for E85, It would be mucher better than adding a kit.
I can help you with the tune if you want
This isn't one of those kits you see on the internet. This one is specifically designed for the R53 with a Link ECU.
You need bigger injectors, compatible fuel lines, and an Ethenol content sensor for it to work to it's fullest potential on the Link. The ethenol content sensor (flex fuel sensor) is wired into the link with the expansion harness so it can adjust between the two fuel maps in the Link. This kit also comes with all the proper AN fittings to make it all work.
With the wide variations of ethenol percentage and the loose regulations of how much is required to be classified as E85, a flex fuel sensor is a good way to protect your engine. Only 51% ethenol is required to be considered E85. 51% is only like 88 octane. LOL
This isn't one of those kits you see on the internet. This one is specifically designed for the R53 with a Link ECU.
You need bigger injectors, compatible fuel lines, and an Ethenol content sensor for it to work to it's fullest potential on the Link. The ethenol content sensor (flex fuel sensor) is wired into the link with the expansion harness so it can adjust between the two fuel maps in the Link. This kit also comes with all the proper AN fittings to make it all work.
With the wide variations of ethenol percentage and the loose regulations of how much is required to be classified as E85, a flex fuel sensor is a good way to protect your engine. Only 51% ethenol is required to be considered E85. 51% is only like 88 octane. LOL
Oh okay, there is a flex fuel kit, nice!
I have to disagree with you on the E85 RON... E10 is somewhere between RON96 and RON97. E50 is around RON100 and real E85 is around RON105
RON is not the same as actual octane. Have a look an the conversion chart.
Yes, RON is calculated differently in EU and US. But you said E50 would be RON88, or in reality it would be somewhere between 95 and 100 according to US charts
Yes, RON is calculated differently in EU and US. But you said E50 would be RON88, or in reality it would be somewhere between 95 and 100 according to US charts
Nope. Over here, they mix E85 with the lowest grade octane gas. E15 is only 88 octane according to the sign at the pump itself. They don't mix for octane here, they mix for cost savings.
The E85 Market over here is different than other countries. It's not a booming market like other countries. I live in Big Oil country (Texas) and we just recently got an E85 pump close to me to make the conversion a sensible option.
Nope. Over here, they mix E85 with the lowest grade octane gas. E15 is only 88 octane according to the sign at the pump itself. They don't mix for octane here, they mix for cost savings.
The E85 Market over here is different than other countries. It's not a booming market like other countries. I live in Big Oil country (Texas) and we just recently got an E85 pump close to me to make the conversion a sensible option.
Nope. Over here, they mix E85 with the lowest grade octane gas. E15 is only 88 octane according to the sign at the pump itself. They don't mix for octane here, they mix for cost savings.
The E85 Market over here is different than other countries. It's not a booming market like other countries. I live in Big Oil country (Texas) and we just recently got an E85 pump close to me to make the conversion a sensible option.
I agree with you, so I think I am misundterstanding because you said 51% ethanol (so roughly E50) is only 88AKI. Or, if E15 is already AKI88, E50 is around AKI 95-100, so it's still better (from a knock point of view) than pure unleaded. Am I clear?
I agree with you, so I think I am misundterstanding because you said 51% ethanol (so roughly E50) is only 88AKI. Or, if E15 is already AKI88, E50 is around AKI 95-100, so it's still better (from a knock point of view) than pure unleaded. Am I clear?
Maybe I'm missing something but even using a mix of 85 Octane gas and 110 Octane Ethanol an E51 Mix would have an octane mix of 97.5 to 98. At least according to the E calculators.
This isn't one of those kits you see on the internet. This one is specifically designed for the R53 with a Link ECU.
You need bigger injectors, compatible fuel lines, and an Ethenol content sensor for it to work to it's fullest potential on the Link. The ethenol content sensor (flex fuel sensor) is wired into the link with the expansion harness so it can adjust between the two fuel maps in the Link. This kit also comes with all the proper AN fittings to make it all work.
I think R53 fuel lines are ethanol compatible. I've been driving mine on E85 for over six years and 120.000km so they probably would have failed already if they weren't.
10-29-2018, 10:01 AM
