Drivetrain (Cooper S) MINI Cooper S (R53) intakes, exhausts, pulleys, headers, throttle bodies, and any other modifications to the Cooper S drivetrain.

Drivetrain Headgasket trouble with high boost application...

Old Nov 10, 2004 | 06:40 AM
  #1  
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Headgasket trouble with high boost application...

Okay. Given that we are now seeing higher boost set-ups lately (ie, 19%+ pullies and twincharged), who makes a beefy headgasket that can replace the OEM?

Q's:

How has the testing of the twincharged affected the headgaskets?

How many headgasket failures do we have here from higher boost rigs?
 
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Old Nov 11, 2004 | 07:25 AM
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anyone???????

jlm...did you use OEM?
 
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Old Nov 11, 2004 | 08:03 AM
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The stock headgasket is a 4-layer sheetmetal.

It would be tough to blow it out, but even if you did, what would be potential material improvements?

I would expect the sheetmetal gasket to have comparible thermal expansion properties, so gasket longetivity vs. heat cycles looks promising. Maybe an "extra-high-strength" steel gasket would be stronger for higher boost? Honestly I don't see the head gasket as a weak-point right now.
 
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Old Nov 11, 2004 | 09:30 AM
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yes; a new one, of course, although I re-used the bolts scrupulously cleaned the block and head surfaces. Note the torque spec is torque to 30 ft-lbs and then turn another 90 degrees.


by the way, the old one is making progress!
he would be the one to ask about head gaskets
 
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Old Nov 11, 2004 | 09:49 AM
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Originally Posted by Ryephile
The stock headgasket is a 4-layer sheetmetal.

It would be tough to blow it out, Honestly I don't see the head gasket as a weak-point right now.
I ask this because I now know of at least two failures. Both were using a 19% pulley
 
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Old Nov 11, 2004 | 09:49 AM
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I would think that the only additional protection to be had re: head/block sealing would be to O-ring the block and/or use a copper head gasket. Having been down both roads (not with my MCS) and running high boost in an old Volvo 240 Turbo, I can tell you that:

1. you need pristinely FLAT surfaces (both head and block) for the copper gasket to seal at all;

2. O-ringing can be expensive and is really not worth it unless you're looking at effective CRs of over, say, 20:1; and

3. I blew the endtanks off the Volvo's intercooler before I would have even thought about the head gasket (plastic tie-wraps truly are the universal tool when duct tape isn't readily available), even before o-ringing the block and using the copper gasket.

Now the B21FT is an amazing motor and I put 23 psi on that sucker (considerable mods to take it, but it held up quite well), but 20 psi on the MINI's mill doesn't seem unreasonable.

Something else to ponder: I believe you can reuse the MINI's head bolts as they are not TTY (torque-to-yield). But if you're throwing all kinds of cash at the head, you might as well just replace them while you're in there.

Side question: Anyone using STUDS instead of head bolts yet?

Marty
 
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Old Feb 22, 2005 | 05:26 AM
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I just thought that i'd update this thread.

The best head gaskets availalbe the world over are from Cometic Gaskets www.cometic.com

They make a tri-layer head gasket which will fit the cooper and Cooper S and will not warp under high boost pressures as long as both the head surface and block surface are flat.

I just thought that i'd conclude this thread with knowledge that could be useful for some

Henry
 
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Old Feb 22, 2005 | 08:31 AM
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Did someone use the Mini Mania cylinder head stud kit from Raceware?

Quite expensive at 300$.

Alex
 
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Old Feb 22, 2005 | 08:46 AM
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Originally Posted by AlexN
Did someone use the Mini Mania cylinder head stud kit from Raceware?

Quite expensive at 300$.

Alex
I wouldn't pay Mini Mania's prices anyway, but yeah, you can get ARP reuseable head bolts from pretty much any ARP dealer for quite a bit less!
 
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Old Aug 29, 2005 | 08:24 AM
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$149.96 str8 from ARP. in stock

1-800-826-3045
 
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Old Sep 22, 2005 | 02:39 PM
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o
 
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Old Sep 22, 2005 | 03:24 PM
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Bisch,

I would make sure nothing is warped. I haven't seen any issues with the stock gasket, and we are putting together some pretty high-boost stuff (includig a TurboKompressor car).

Make absolutely sure that both surfaces are pristine also.

Hope that helps!
Randy

PS - Use a straight edge to make sure the head isn't warped - max allowable tolerance is .1mm or .004".
 
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Old Sep 22, 2005 | 03:24 PM
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Whats the benefits from using studs versus bolts?

Jm
 
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Old Sep 22, 2005 | 03:31 PM
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the ARP kits for the mini are high strength bolts; no room for studs and nuts.

Bisch: where does it blow? what is your torque technique? are you using old bolts?
 
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Old Sep 22, 2005 | 04:49 PM
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Hubie is running 30 - 35psi and has never had a problem with the head gasket.Did you put any copper on the gasket?
 
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Old Sep 22, 2005 | 04:55 PM
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oh yeah, and he was pushing n2o. 436whp, no head gasket problems ever.
 
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Old Sep 23, 2005 | 08:25 AM
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Maximus's car had no problems with the headgasket, but it sure is taking awhile to get a new one!
 
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Old Sep 23, 2005 | 11:25 AM
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Hey bro, i got an update for you.. The motor is in the car now, they're hooking back up electronics and all the other stuff.. should be ready by wednesdsay!
 
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Old Sep 23, 2005 | 11:37 AM
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We use the cometic gasket on the V8 and we're producing 1200hp and had no problem, my mate is ising them and he produces about 1400hp and not a problem either.

When I pull the head I will defintley be replacing the gasket with a Cometic and arp for peace of mind.
 
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