Drivetrain Rods and Pistons
#1
Rods and Pistons
Who has some good insight on Rods and Pistons. My research so far makes the forged supertech the best choice. But further discussions have revealed that aluminum rods may not be the best choice due to the structural properties of aluminum not holding up for long mileage. It would appear the stock rods are the best choice for durability, and mileage.
Does anyone have experience? I've consulted with CP, Wiseco, and Supertech.
Thanks, Dan Raabe
Does anyone have experience? I've consulted with CP, Wiseco, and Supertech.
Thanks, Dan Raabe
#2
I'm right there with you. First N14 rebuild. Leaning heavily towards forged internals and and an overall upgrade to parts where it makes sense. The stock internals are still pricey so why not upgrade. I do understand you will not get the same life out of forged parts but I'd rather rebuild again at 50,000 miles then randomly because a ring broke or a piston cracked etc and then damaged other parts.
I guess it you go forged pistons you have to upgrade the connecting rods as well.
I'm leaning towards CP pistons and Pauter rods unless my research steers me elsewhere.
As far as the head goes....my engine shop was fully ready to reuse the valves (without me defining what I wanted) after cleaning and recutting but I want to make sure if the valves really should be upgraded to sodium filled or black nitrided then I want to do that. Goal would be to handle the heat better. Also plan on ceramic coating the valves and piston tops.
The shop says no problem reusing the Cam and Crank after a quick polish.
Also plan on cryogenically freezing the timing chain - if still available. Ha
Ultimate goal is Manic stage 2 with some room to grow on a 2008 MCS and not have to worry that the stock internals are a ticking time bomb.
I guess it you go forged pistons you have to upgrade the connecting rods as well.
I'm leaning towards CP pistons and Pauter rods unless my research steers me elsewhere.
As far as the head goes....my engine shop was fully ready to reuse the valves (without me defining what I wanted) after cleaning and recutting but I want to make sure if the valves really should be upgraded to sodium filled or black nitrided then I want to do that. Goal would be to handle the heat better. Also plan on ceramic coating the valves and piston tops.
The shop says no problem reusing the Cam and Crank after a quick polish.
Also plan on cryogenically freezing the timing chain - if still available. Ha
Ultimate goal is Manic stage 2 with some room to grow on a 2008 MCS and not have to worry that the stock internals are a ticking time bomb.
#3
Vendor
iTrader: (10)
The engines we have done we have found we really like the Carrillo rods
https://www.waymotorworks.com/carril...9-r60-r61.html
They do cost more but are bullet proof.
For pistons we have used both CP and Wiseco and I like the Wiseco's better. Also some other engine builders I work with have found them to be better long term
https://www.waymotorworks.com/wiseco...14-engine.html
As for valves we've done builds with both stock valves or supertech. Really just depends on if you stock size or not.
We also have done our cams on the builds which have been icing on the engine cake.
https://www.waymotorworks.com/way-pe...-cams-n14.html
https://www.waymotorworks.com/carril...9-r60-r61.html
They do cost more but are bullet proof.
For pistons we have used both CP and Wiseco and I like the Wiseco's better. Also some other engine builders I work with have found them to be better long term
https://www.waymotorworks.com/wiseco...14-engine.html
As for valves we've done builds with both stock valves or supertech. Really just depends on if you stock size or not.
We also have done our cams on the builds which have been icing on the engine cake.
https://www.waymotorworks.com/way-pe...-cams-n14.html
#4
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WayMotorWorks (02-28-2018)
#5
When you approach 300+WHP, you need to consider heat resistant parts (valves) and reinforced cylinder walls, i.e., CNCWerx CSS. Also think about investing in heat range "9" spark plugs.
When choosing new rods and pistons, ensure there's no interference when the engine is rotated by hand. I've read about mismatched sets that look good separately but don't work together. Definitely don't use OEM rods in a high HP engine, there are much better choices out there. My CP / Carrillo set is holding up fine.
When choosing new rods and pistons, ensure there's no interference when the engine is rotated by hand. I've read about mismatched sets that look good separately but don't work together. Definitely don't use OEM rods in a high HP engine, there are much better choices out there. My CP / Carrillo set is holding up fine.
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