Drivetrain (Cooper S) MINI Cooper S (R53) intakes, exhausts, pulleys, headers, throttle bodies, and any other modifications to the Cooper S drivetrain.

Drivetrain Have about $3600, what mods next?

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Old Oct 15, 2004 | 07:27 PM
  #26  
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Heh, it's ok.

Originally Posted by jlm
you guys reading post #1???
Never read the forward, just jump right to the end of the book.

I appreciate any and all replies however Post 1 does list my current mods.
 
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Old Oct 15, 2004 | 08:45 PM
  #27  
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Save it up a bit more and wait for the twincharge kit!!!!
 
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Old Oct 15, 2004 | 09:44 PM
  #28  
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Ugh!

Originally Posted by forevercornered
Save it up a bit more and wait for the twincharge kit!!!!
I said I want to speed it up not blow it up.
 
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Old Oct 15, 2004 | 11:07 PM
  #29  
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I say throw on the Webb Motorsports FMIC, Milltek Header, and the Unichip. Might put you a bit over budget tho. So maybe FMIC, Unichip, and the Konis.
 
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Old Oct 16, 2004 | 05:23 AM
  #30  
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you're right about getting that twincahrge kit. for about $5k installed (guessing) you will get a solid 250 wheel hp. nothing else will come close.

From what I have seen with Hubie's system, he runs the car all over, has put major miles on it, tracked the car, tested it to failure (300+hp with stock pistons can only take so much boost) and has arrived at a solid safe and reliable tune with every component extremely high quality.

yeah, i'd save up...especially given that you have the lsd, probably a strong clutch, good wheels and tires. go for it.
 
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Old Oct 16, 2004 | 05:34 AM
  #31  
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Twincharged Kit

Originally Posted by jlm
you're right about getting that twincahrge kit. for about $5k installed (guessing) you will get a solid 250 wheel hp. nothing else will come close.

From what I have seen with Hubie's system, he runs the car all over, has put major miles on it, tracked the car, tested it to failure (300+hp with stock pistons can only take so much boost) and has arrived at a solid safe and reliable tune with every component extremely high quality.

yeah, i'd save up...especially given that you have the lsd, probably a strong clutch, good wheels and tires. go for it.
I don't know if I want to go quite that radical but I'll keep an open mind for next year. "The second mouse gets the cheese." as they say.

What about a head? (no gratuitous jokes please ) would any of you say that it removes drivability? (Strange power bands, noises, etc.)
 
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Old Oct 16, 2004 | 05:35 AM
  #32  
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Fmic

Originally Posted by JCampos
I say throw on the Webb Motorsports FMIC, Milltek Header, and the Unichip. Might put you a bit over budget tho. So maybe FMIC, Unichip, and the Konis.
What about the FMIC, Head? That should get close to 20?
 
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Old Oct 16, 2004 | 09:34 AM
  #33  
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In all fairness, I think the best way to approach this is to ask back what is your goal, or desired endpoint? If you don't know or never thought about it, there will be a ton of permutations to part with that money...

I've heard of many saying that they would like an even 200bhp, and improved handling. The extra 40 or so hp can be had quite easily and cheaply leaving one with sufficient money (assuming the $3600) for suspension goodies. Having a clear understanding of the endpoint really helps in the decision-process when it comes to planning/buying mods...

My mission has guided me very well: Without getting the gutted-look, I have a goal of a 10 to 1 weight to hp ratio. I believe in the holistic approach when seeking such gains, so suspension and braking need to be addressed...

Some folks are cool with the power, but just want even better handling. For this amount of money, one can improve the control of the car immensely! I got my Volk CE28Ns (16x7) for $1250 (cash, out the door). I then got Yoko AVS ES100 (205/45's) for like 80 bucks each at the TireRack. That's a little over 1500 bucks. For high-end coilovers (you mentioned autox), one can choose the Leda or Bilstein PSS9's for around 17-1800 dollars. The couple hundred extra can be put toward a rear sway bar (I know, you have). Most likely a combo of rear control arms and front camber plates will be desired though. Less expensive struts or springs could be had that would allow sufficient funds for those camber solutions, while still meeting the price parameters...

I would really recommend first deciding what you want out of your MCS - what will make you content, and mod accordingly. For many, it's just more of everything! Or it somehow evolves into that .
 
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Old Oct 16, 2004 | 03:23 PM
  #34  
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If you autocross your next investments should be the larger intercooler, a nice BBK, front camber plates, and some racing slicks with wheels.
 
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Old Oct 16, 2004 | 03:52 PM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by minispilot
If you autocross your next investments should be the larger intercooler, a nice BBK, front camber plates, and some racing slicks with wheels.
Hmm, can't do the BBK because I run 15".

Larger intercooler, you mean the Alta (haven't seen any proven gains) or the GRS? Or do you mean the Webb Kahuna?

If you're going to be a bear, be a GRIZZLY!
 
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Old Oct 16, 2004 | 05:27 PM
  #36  
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The Wilwood kit (11.75") I just got is said to fit 15's, I think with 5mm spacers, but I'm not certain. I'll be putting them on 16s...

http://wilwood.com/

Go bears!
 
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Old Oct 16, 2004 | 07:29 PM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by TonyB
The Wilwood kit (11.75") I just got is said to fit 15's, I think with 5mm spacers, but I'm not certain. I'll be putting them on 16s...

http://wilwood.com/

Go bears!
Hi Tony,

May I ask what pricing was for those and what your impressions are of the product? I didn't see any information on the page.

Regards,
 
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Old Oct 16, 2004 | 07:59 PM
  #38  
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With re to my impressions, see the below photo .

Oh, I got mine from Todd at TCE. He was/is fantastic! Pricing can be found here:

http://www.tceperformanceproducts.co...Kits/Mini.mgi2

There's a PDF for these brakes on the Wilwood website, but I can't find it now! Contact Todd, and he'll give you whatever info you want...

Besides better braking, these babies are like 7 pounds lighter per corner .

Originally Posted by Mjolnir
Hi Tony,

May I ask what pricing was for those and what your impressions are of the product? I didn't see any information on the page.

Regards,
 
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Old Oct 16, 2004 | 08:07 PM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by TonyB
With re to my impressions, see the below photo .

Oh, I got mine from Todd at TCE. He was/is fantastic! Pricing can be found here:

http://www.tceperformanceproducts.co...Kits/Mini.mgi2

There's a PDF for these brakes on the Wilwood website, but I can't find it now! Contact Todd, and he'll give you whatever info you want...

Besides better braking, these babies are like 7 pounds lighter per corner .
Wow, very nice packaging. Bet you can't wait to tear that apart. :smile:

There is a lot of pricing on that page, is this the one?

Wilwood kits:
Race Kit
11.75" Directional Vaned rotor, DP Caliper w/SS pistons (non booted), E pads, brackets, hardware and hoses.
$949

Keep in mind that I have 15" wheels.

Thanks!
 
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Old Oct 16, 2004 | 08:15 PM
  #40  
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I'd have to go check my cc statement, but that price sounds right! I'll be putting the Q pads on instead, thus the two boxes...

Yes, I'm quite excited to get them on alright. I was working on my Ledas, and camber plates today. I'll probably do the brakes next weekend. I would tackle them tomorrow, but I need to get a friend to help pump the stop pedal, not to mention the fluid that I still need to buy...

Send Todd a PM now as he often is online.


Originally Posted by Mjolnir
Wow, very nice packaging. Bet you can't wait to tear that apart. :smile:

There is a lot of pricing on that page, is this the one?

Wilwood kits:
Race Kit
11.75" Directional Vaned rotor, DP Caliper w/SS pistons (non booted), E pads, brackets, hardware and hoses.
$949

Keep in mind that I have 15" wheels.

Thanks!
 
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Old Oct 17, 2004 | 01:11 AM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by Mjolnir
Hmm, can't do the BBK because I run 15".

Larger intercooler, you mean the Alta (haven't seen any proven gains) or the GRS? Or do you mean the Webb Kahuna?

If you're going to be a bear, be a GRIZZLY!
I also run 15" for autocross. There are BBk that will fit them, you just have to look

I would suggest the GRS interkooler as its the one im looking to buy. $600 goes a loooong way. Although I havent seen the Webb Kahuna, so I'm on my way to check it out now.............
 
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Old Oct 17, 2004 | 03:35 AM
  #42  
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OK, update:

I have read through Randy's website. I havent been there for a while as the racing front mount and the larger top mount intercoolers were new items to me as well as the cylinder head.

Overall it looks like he has a nice intercooler there. It is very similar in size and heat reduction offered as the competitors (alta, GRS). I especially like his price tag, it is the cheapest iv'e seen anyone offer in the US. At $840 he is waaay under the $1k mark set by Alta, $160 less to be exact. But just this "small" price cut is not enough to turn me away from the GRS TMI. It is professionally made, as is Randy's, and is similar in dimensions. Though the GRS intercooler is approx. $600 to my door. Thats a $140 off of Randy's price and $400 off the Alta price.

Overall I think if the price on Randy's intercooler came down a smidge more, $50-75, I would buy his. I would much rather give my money to an american company with an american product but if his competitor will beat his price by 35%, I would have to go through them............
 
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Old Oct 17, 2004 | 03:47 AM
  #43  
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Please ignore all of the header or other exhaust mod suggestions as they will little or no benefit to you because you have a stock head.

Oh and I would like to change my original suggestions to:

$500 Front Camber Plates (RDR)
$500 Koni SA (keep hsport springs)
$600 Larger TMIC
$1000 BBK
$100 Scroth Rallye 4pt harnesses (clip in, for auto-x use only)
$100 Alta Short Shifter
$200 MTH ECU flash using the cable (more details in another thread)
??? Rear camber and toe links
??? Front skidplate (someone makes a nice SS one, can get the link if u want)

These are all just ballpark figures so keep that in mind when looking for prices..........

Have FUN
 
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Old Oct 17, 2004 | 06:34 AM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by minispilot
Please ignore all of the header or other exhaust mod suggestions as they will little or no benefit to you because you have a stock head. ......


I gather you are stating this because you have made this mod?


I have to strongly disagree with you then as I have done this and have a notable performance gain. I understand what you say about the head situation, but the fact is that I get considerable HP and torque gains in the mid to high RPMs. Remember, the cat is also high flow with these systems, and that alone is much of the improvement.

With the Milltek you are gaining a longer collection area, much cleaner and larger collection at the four into one, added collector diam, high flow cat, larger diam catback, high flow system, and a real weight loss. That's a lot of good stuff in one package.

SO, I do disagree with the above quote, respectfully. I love my Milltec system and DO see gains. I do hope to have real numbers in a month or so.

Now, I must say again that the Unichip from Webb was a big part of making all of my mods work at their highest efficiency. I drove my MCS without the Unichio for a day and was only mildly impressed, but the following day I put in the Unichip. WOW, like a different car all together. I do think that this Unichip is a must have if you are moding the MCS in any way.

 
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Old Oct 17, 2004 | 04:55 PM
  #45  
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Exhaust does offer *some* performance gain. Just not enough to justify the huge cost and grossly loud noise they produce. I have chosen to go with the scorpion exhaust. I don't expect it to give any gains in power, real or placebo. I just want a deeper tone and a bit more noise.

It just is not cost effective enough for me to see 10hp and 10#tq (if your lucky) for $1500. That money would be much better spent on other mods.

I would also not throw away $700 by purchasing the unichip. I can see the same gains and more with the MTH ecu flash. Plus I can have it changed any time for free and without driving to some specialty shop.
 
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Old Oct 17, 2004 | 05:37 PM
  #46  
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UNIChip

I don't think the UNIChip should be knocked either. I just depends what one wants. For maximum gains, this ECU option allows for personal tailoring to one's unique MCS (they are not all the same from the factory), and combo of mods. This can all be done dynamically (on a dyno) to dial everything-in, exceptionally well...

Sure it costs more. For a couple hundred extra bucks I would pay for the above alone, and have. Throw-in that it has essentially two other maps, one being stock, value is seen even more. Some love the idea that it can be removed for dealer visits, for a few reasons. Those are also unique attributes as well.

What if one wants to go with a different size pulley? Sure, some maps will accomodate, others not. What if one wants a combo of mods not addressed by a map-maker? What if one decides to get a new SC or a turbo, etc? One will need to buy something new to address such future options - unless they have a UNIChip. This future component is as big for me and others as the ability to tune it to its current mods...

And for those who must part with their ECU investment, what is the resale value? With the UNIChip, that is at least an option. Randy Webb shared with me recently where someone had to part with their MCS, and sold the UNIChip separately, and did quite well with that transaction...

If someone doesn't want to mod their MCS a whole lot, then maybe the UNIChip is not the best choice for that person. For those of us who want to maximize the performance of their MCS with current mods, and going forward with the mutitude of what should be many exciting options, the UNIChip is a no-brainer. Having a switch for 100 octane at the track, removal all-together (back to stock), and resale value are certainly additional positives...

It all depends what one wants to achieve. The UNIChip is pricier for a reason, and if those reasons are not important to that person, then don't get it. The MTH doesn't interest me, yet I would never knock it because I know that it fills needs. It just doesn't address ones that I find to be very important...
 
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Old Oct 17, 2004 | 05:43 PM
  #47  
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I agree with JLM, save some money and do the twincharge kit. That what I'm doing.



Danny
 
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Old Oct 17, 2004 | 05:59 PM
  #48  
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[QUOTE=minispilot]Though the GRS intercooler is approx. $600 to my door. Thats a $140 off of Randy's price and $400 off the Alta price.

[QUOTE]

I see the GRS is 399 GBP which converts to 720 USD plus 65 GBP shipping.

http://www.xe.com/ucc/

Where are you getting it for 600 USD?

Also, the top mount that Randy sells is the Alta, correct?

I'm talking/thinking about doing the BFI (Big F*kin' Intercooler ) that is the front mount. I think I have to talk to Randy to find out if that's really a Track only item.
 
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Old Oct 17, 2004 | 06:03 PM
  #49  
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Originally Posted by minispilot
Please ignore all of the header or other exhaust mod suggestions as they will little or no benefit to you because you have a stock head.

Oh and I would like to change my original suggestions to:

$500 Front Camber Plates (RDR)
$500 Koni SA (keep hsport springs)
$600 Larger TMIC
$1000 BBK
$100 Scroth Rallye 4pt harnesses (clip in, for auto-x use only)
$100 Alta Short Shifter
$200 MTH ECU flash using the cable (more details in another thread)
??? Rear camber and toe links
??? Front skidplate (someone makes a nice SS one, can get the link if u want)

These are all just ballpark figures so keep that in mind when looking for prices..........

Have FUN
RDR Plates - got em
Konis - will do next spring, I figure why bother with winter coming?
Schroth Harness - got it (LOVE it)
Short Shifter - got it
MTH Flash - got it

You really think exhaust options are a waste without doing the head, eh? That head swap sounds like a pain. i haven't seen any "how to" articles yet.
 
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Old Oct 17, 2004 | 06:24 PM
  #50  
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Originally Posted by CooperSdriver
I agree with JLM, save some money and do the twincharge kit. That what I'm doing.


Danny
Heh, that's just a bit too crazy for me. :smile:

I have somewhat of a strange Orthodoxy about modding a car where I'll improve it but not change it so much that it really isn't the original concept/design.

I won't do NOS either because I don't believe in getting my power from a bottle. Hell, let's go nuts and strap a JATO to the back. (Someone call Mythbusters!)

I've done this to past cars and while they're fun they're not the same car I started with. I always felt disappointed for some reason.

Now if someone wants to really save their pennies, get this:

http://www.ultimacars.com/

Call me silly, but it's just my opinion.
 
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