Thanks for taking the time to document all of this.

So you are actually expecting more HPs once the leak is sealed?

 

If the boost was truly low, as shown, then yes, I expect 2 - 3WHP per each PSI added. Target is 30PSI with no errors in dyno or Mini. Actual power might still be less due to my elevation difference --- LV = ~2500', while I'm at ~4500'. It'll also be a different dyno. We'll see ---

 

if you can make these numbers where I live (8000ft)then take my money!

 

8000 feet! Wow, how long does it take for you to cook a hardboiled egg?

 

I havent took the time , but is not an issue at all!, I need to build an engine like this, that is a real challenge.

 

Following with great interest.
Our builds are similar, but yours will make more power.
F21M arrives soon, and once it's in, the ECU heads to Mario for the upgrade.

 

I've heard good things about Frankenturbo. A quick visit to their web site didn't produce any compressor charts tho --- I'd be interested to see some specs on it.

Checked out your signature, and yes, our builds do seem similar. What do you need to qualify for Manic's stage 3? You should consider a good WMI system soon --- help keep your new engine valves clean, plus add some power.

Good luck and post some results after Mario's finished with it.

 

I'm fairly encouraged by what DashCommand is reporting right now.
265 BHP, 465 ft/lbs max on the current turbo, max boost was 23 psi, Map A, Stage 2. Lights up the tires at highway speed, too.

I'm going to swap out my BSH mount for a stock one with Powerflex Black inserts. Way too much rattle for a daily driver.

My goal is to get into the neighborhood of 300whp, God only knows what the torque will work out to be. After the F21M goes in, Mario's going to do a Stage 4 but aimed at 93 fuel only (no WMI for me for now). Really looking forward to it!

Both of our internals should be able to handle it, I think. I considered the CSS, but decided I was deep enough $$$ into this car for now.

What's your goals?

 

I have no experience with the DashCommand --- how do the numbers compare to dyno numbers?

I'm surprised you can get a stage 4 via mail. I was told that stages 3 & 4 both should at least be data logged after initial install --- for "fine tuning". Both of my stage 4 tunes were done this way.

As for internals, without a CSS, be very careful about boosting in the high 20's. There's absolutely no support between the water jacket and the cylinder top. My original build had about 312WHP and 25PSI boost with OEM internals. Lasted a couple years, but not a lot of hard driving.

My original goal was to have "One of, if not the Baddest Mini, in Northern NV." That's been met and exceeded. There aren't many, if any, R56's in the country, on the streets, with more power than mine. R53's, yes, but how many are on the streets, legally? Current goal??? Fix my boost, improve air flow, maybe run some really high octane gas and look for 400WHP. I think I can get a few more out of it, just maybe not 400 --- we'll see.

 

Mario's asked me to do some specific data logging prior to sending him the ECU, so I think that squares with your experience on Stage 4.

I fully intend to get it onto a dyno, both to see the truth of the setup, as well as to compare those results with DashCommand (will try to run DashCommand's logging concurrent with the dyno).

What gauges are you running? I'm pulling quite a bit through DashCommand, but have been considering wideband (oil temp & boost, mainly).

 

Be careful with reading boost using Dashcommand or any OBD2 reader. The S uses a 2.5 absolute sensor so the maximum displayed reading is right around 22 psig. The JCW has 3.5 bar sensor if IIRC.

 

Should I have to ask?

.....Can they be swapped ?

Mine blows out the stock diverter valve, which is also capped at 22 psi (?)

 

Replacing the MAP sensor is the way to go, then?
I need to check to see if I'm already replaced...

 

I'm also now running the TurboSmart plumb back version, btw.

 

I think that if you are pushing big numbers, go with a real boost gauge.

 

Absolutely. The data output of the OBD port for MAP is 8 bit therefore limited to reporting 255 kpa maximum. Translation: Via OBD you will not see over 1.55 bar of boost at sea level. The ECU of the fJCW will see up to 350 kpa MAP internally but cannot report it via OBD.

 

The data logging I'm referring to is done AFTER the initial stage 4 install. The data Mario's requesting is to set up your initial stage 4 map --- there can be a significant difference between Manic stage 4's, i.e., I'm using WMI, you aren't.

There's no need to replace the MAP sensors unless you want to read boost from the OBD connector --- Manic "over-rides" the ECU limits. I'm using OEM MCS sensors and run up to 30PSI boost. My boost gauge is a ProSport, reading inHg and PSI but it's limited to 30PSI max. It's been suggested that I replace it with one that max's out at 45PSI AND has data logging capability. I'm seriously considering it. Other gauges are a matching ProSport coolant temp gauge --- for creature comforts, and a WMI gauge that came with the kit. Thought about oil temp / pressure, but to big a PITA to implement, for my driving habits --- minimum track use.

OK, what's a TurboSmart plumb back? Maybe a boost controller of some sort? Also, how does the F21M WG operate, pressure or vacuum? If it's pressure, like my Garrett, you might have some significant installation surprises waiting for you --- external BOV / DV and a boost controller, either electronic or manual, then the plumbing to connect it all. My MBC is a TurboXS but is currently connected in a bad location --- gotta move the boost source to a location closer to the throttle body. It's currently connected between the turbo and FMIC --- probably the cause of my "boost loss" --- the "dip" shown on the dyno charts.

Randeez, the OEM DV can be disconnected electrically (but left in place), and replaced with a resistor (12 ohms in my case) in the connector to eliminate a CEL, then an external BOV / DV installed.

 

I've ordered the turbo smart also, my question for swapping the map sensor was more for data logging.

The turbo smart replaces the stock dv, it is plumbed back to an adapter under the map sensor (included) and also includes the resistor to keep stock connection happy. It uses a spring under normal conditions to keep closed, under boost it pushes closed, when you let off/shift (under vacuum) it opens.
The plumb back keeps it mounted in the stock location, keeping from stalling out the comp wheel when throttle blade slams shut

Which still has me wondering how well it will work on an n18...under heavy load letting off will pull vacuum but not for very long

 

Sorry, some of that was supposed to be a question lol,
Let me try again. If I unplug the stock dv or place a resistor in its place, that will stop the dv from opening at 22~ psi, but It wouldn't open when I need it to after throttle closes (in my case n18 valvetronic ****)correct?

 

OK, I looked up the plumb back unit on their web site --- it's a DV designed for Mini's. My BOV / DV is TurboSmart's Kompact Shortie - Dual Port, configured as a DV. This style is generic and can be used with any unit, while the plumb back version is configured to bolt onto a specific turbo - engine combo.

My unit works on pressure differentials, and it's adjustable. I'd be surprised if your plumb back version worked any different --- it's not a question of pulling vacuum, it's the pressure difference between manifold and turbo that opens the valve, diverting excess pressure back to the turbo inlet. Disconnecting the ECU just means that the ECU can no longer disable boost by activating the DV --- there's pros and cons to this feature.

 

I can't answer this question --- I haven't taken an OEM DV apart to see how it functions. But, I'd be surprised if it was different for the N18 valvetronic.

 

you dont want to do that. You need a way to have the DV to open when off throtle.

 

Do you think a MBC is essential?

 

+1 Without a way to dump pressure between the turbo and manifold off throttle it will induce compressor stalling. Think of it as an air brake being applied to the compressor wheel at 150,000 rpm. That will make short work of the turbo.

Love the Turbosmart 50/50 recirc valve on my N14. With an N18 I'd probably go with the full recirc since MAF loss tolerances are tighter. Just a judgement call there. There's a video on adjusting the unit that comes on a CD in the box. When adjusting the unit more preload is not always better. Too much preload and it will not open off throttle at lower boost levels. Mine is adjusted two turns in from the starting position and holds 25 psi without issue. The N18 might need a little less preload since the pressure differential is lower with Valvetronic. IIRC the Turbosmart is rated for over 40 psi.

 

If connected as instructed, your turbosmart plumb back unit should be an adequate replacement for the OEM DV. Are there better units out there??? Most definitely, but heavily dependent on the turbo in use.

Keith --- either an MBC or EBC is essential for my turbo and desired boost. Choice of E vs M was made by DD habits and budget. Use of a boost controller with a turbo having a vacuum controlled WG isn't something I've looked into. I've seen posts where it's been done, but never seen any info on how to connect one --- I don't have enough knowledge about how they would function with a vacuum controlled WG.