Hi Samawil,

Wow it's 182whp.It's good though.What are the rest of the guys highest whp with almost the similar mods as mine?Which gear do you use while doing the dyno the other day,3rd gear and till what RPM?What is the torque max out?What do you think about such as the retailers ,MiniMadness etc shown and offer their packages with the claim hp of 265hp etc?These figures must be the engine hp not whp.The 210whp of mine is before the gearbox mods.Maybe later one day.How old is your car and mileage?Mini is only 2 months old and 1,700km.That's the reason why I told you that I'm having sleepness night now with all these unsolved problem.I hope you will understand the feelings too.Anyway,it's nice talking to you and have a great day.Do you have any email that can write to you in the future?And what's your real name by the way,sorry?

Cheers,Peter.

 

Hi guys,

So after silent for a few days,we have tried everything as told by some of you guys.The problem still the same.The engine will still stall out when slowing down where the RPM needle don't goes back to it's supposed to be at RPM,instead just flat out.

BUT,one thing funny did happen on Thursday and Friday where the two days weather were raining the whole day out and the temperature of the 2 days during daytime is about 29 degree celcius to 31 degree celcius.The engine don't have any stalling problem at all.It's just as good as new and previously,PREFECT.So I was so happy about it but when I tried again on Saturday,the problem came back as normal,with aircond on the engine will just stall off.Just imagine that on the way driving back home,the engine failed me 5 times where I have to restart the engine for 5 times.

So can it be with the remapping which I need to correct again after the lightweight flywheel ,clutch kit and Quaife LSD are installed???Maybe the ignition timing,air fuel need to be readjusted?The two raining days might be having a denser and cooler air and the ECU might provide the engine with more fuel anything that cause the engine not stalling out.As for the normal day with the temperature of 35 to 41 degree celcius,the ECU might give the engine with different info.

I tell you guys ,the two days really made me a happy man and do have real sleeps.After with all you guys feed back,we did check over the engine wire harness,sensors,change over the stock throttle body back again,ignition coil,plugs,plug cables are also change back to stock,rubber boot of the intercoler are checked and also all the hoses.Everything is ok.So after checking it we tested it and that's on Thursday with the low temperature.So I thought everything is ok by then.

The same idea or the last comment is to do the remapping again of the Unichip as it might be caused by the lightweight flywheel.The engine might not able to balance the timing.

You guys comments are needed again.Really appreciate it.

Cheers,Peter.

 

Let's see - here's a new list.


1.

 

Let's see, here's a new list....more basic but you never know:


1. Disconnect air hose before filter, run car, start A/c see if it idles - clean air filter.

2. Change spark plugs, may have been carbon or gas fouled as a result of codes.

3. Does the electric fan go on when the car gets hot? I had my A/C on yesterday (a rare event) and watched as the idle was pushed up by the computer to about 900 RPM when hot and at idle. I believe that the fan was on in this case. Dropped back when cooler. If fan circuit is screwed up could be affecting idle.

4. Assuming you didn't somehow damage a hardware component I might try the following as a last resort. Pull off conector to throttle body. Start car. This will create at least two throttle position sensor codes. Reconnect connector to throttle body. Clear codes. The computer may still have a throttle position problem but as it idles fine without the A/C and in cooler air I suspect a temp sensor or fan circuit problem.

I am not a Mini mechanic! I'm only offering what I would try with my car. You may want to consult one at some point.

 

the engine is definitely supposed to idle faster with the AC on, so it won't stall, (duh!) which makes me wonder if it doesn't know the AC is on (not sure what triggers that, but whatever it is is also supposed to turn on the electric radiator fan; is that coming on?)

hey blue...did you ever do your brake ducts?

 

Hi guys,

Thanks for your tips and advises.I really need all those at the time being.I"m almost out of ideas.It's crazy.Anyway,I will give it a try again and see if everything as you advise has something to do with the problem.

Should there be any changes,I will still inform you all.

Cheers,
Peter.

 

What weight Fly wheel did you use?

Also, Regarding the barometric pressure, I had a similar thing happen to me, because on of the wires was rubbing against the coolant line, causing it to expose. I since wrapped it with electrical tape, and all is fine with that. I also moved where it is routed.

Good Luck

 

Hi BlueMCS,

Either I have my aircond on or off,I don't see any changes in the RPM as what you mentioned.The RPM supposed to be higher if the aircond is on and if the aircond is off,the RPM should drop back a bit.But mine is the same all the way.Even if we turn the power steering either left or right,supposed theere will be some changes in the RPM too,right?But mine don't too.

Like I mentioned earlier that during the cooler weather for the 2 days,the engine does not show any problem at all,suprisingly.

Anyway,I will check it over again,thanks.

Cheers,
Peter.

 

Hi MiniPilo,

Thanks for your feedback.I'm using the Fidanza's lightweight flywheel.It's almost half the weight of the stock flywheel.According to the BMW guys that the lightweight flywheel might have something to do with the problem.Can this be true?Before the mods on the gearbox which I did is the lightweight flywheel,Spec Clutch kit stage 2 and Quaife LSD,the car is running prefect with no such problem.It happened once the car on the road back for the first test drive after completion of the gearbox mods.
I have already check that problem as you mentioned,it's prefectly ok.

Thanks once again,cheers.
Peter.

 

if your rpm is not changing when idle load changes (A/C on-off) there is a problem with whatever causes the rpm to change: sensors, throttle body, ECU, cables and connectors. If BMW is telling you it is the fwheel, run that by them. You may have damaged somthing in the install, but there are many running the exact fweel, clutch, LSD combo you have (I was) with no such problem.

 

Nah, I just finsihed moving and am trying to find everything. I found the hose and ducts but it is low on the list. Need to do your camber plates, shocks and brake pads before the Glen. Must find tools and make space for the car first.

My car LOVES this cool dry weather! I bet I picked up 15hp going from 80F to 60F.

Speaking of which, how you coming on those intercoolers?

 

i hate them; made a couple and had a lot of fun hydroforming the tanks, but I'm still not convinced it's the way...not enough room to get proper cooling airflow through the IC. i may have to make a new hood. Or finish that laminova project.

 

Hydroforming

Yea, I bought a company once that made bellows that way. The damn things were used for some high precision and high relibility tasks but making them was a trip. The machines were ancient and water used to spray everywhere when one blew out (brass) but they produced a very accurate part in a short amount of time.

Did you build the machines? Are you making them out of aluminum?

 

Hi Jim,

Thanks again for your reply.I will check it out soon.

Cheers,Peter.

 

Hi guys,

Can any of you let me know the RPM of your MCS engine when it's at idling with and without aircond on?

Thankyou,Cheers,
Peter.