Drivetrain scary steering when breaking hard!!
ok let me reword that last statement i get a little funky sometimes on trying to explain something,
when my wheels are at -3 degrees camber in the rear, i have 1/8 in. toe in
as soon as we move the controll arms and make my rear wheels with a very low degree of camber (make it look like the suspention isnt squatting) then my rear toe becomes a nasty .5 in toe out so i ended up litteraly drifting around turns so we met half way and it will throw the back out when you let of the gas and wont drift anymore but its still alot of toe out back their great feeling for the autocross!
now when i was breaking hard i was just finishing changing lanes so i did get a couple of good clues so far as in what could be cusing this from you post and thank you all tremendously, i will be putting on the new upper controll arms very soon as in to hopfully corecting both the toe and camber to dial it in perfectley, ill see if that does it
so im geussing so far that the reson it got wabbley on me is the toe out in the front and the toe out in the rear and changing lanes and breking hard their after, ill figure once all is fixed it should be lots better, about things being asque it could very well be, car got toed a while back and the dip's tied around the controll arm bending it badley and i changed the damaged ones with new h-sport controll arms i praying they havent damaged more that what we can see, all other components look great toug so im hoping!!!!
chow!!!:smile:
when my wheels are at -3 degrees camber in the rear, i have 1/8 in. toe in
as soon as we move the controll arms and make my rear wheels with a very low degree of camber (make it look like the suspention isnt squatting) then my rear toe becomes a nasty .5 in toe out so i ended up litteraly drifting around turns so we met half way and it will throw the back out when you let of the gas and wont drift anymore but its still alot of toe out back their great feeling for the autocross!
now when i was breaking hard i was just finishing changing lanes so i did get a couple of good clues so far as in what could be cusing this from you post and thank you all tremendously, i will be putting on the new upper controll arms very soon as in to hopfully corecting both the toe and camber to dial it in perfectley, ill see if that does it
so im geussing so far that the reson it got wabbley on me is the toe out in the front and the toe out in the rear and changing lanes and breking hard their after, ill figure once all is fixed it should be lots better, about things being asque it could very well be, car got toed a while back and the dip's tied around the controll arm bending it badley and i changed the damaged ones with new h-sport controll arms i praying they havent damaged more that what we can see, all other components look great toug so im hoping!!!!
chow!!!:smile:
Originally Posted by 4GAZM
car got toed a while back and the dip's tied around the controll arm bending it badley !
yea thats why i have to get both sets of controll arms now, i feel it was them that had probably screwed somthing up so now im hoping thet with the new upper controll arms i can dial it in to extinguish all problrms with the wheel alignment!
my 2-bits:
lowering the rear with springs or coilovers will also make the rear camber go negative; that is how you get the 3 degree negative. Fortunately the geometry of the mini rear will hold toe constant throughout the entire suspension travel range.
But then you are decreasing rear camber by shortening the lower control arms. this can alter the geometry and affect the toe setting. Monkeying around with your suspension when you don't know what you are doing and then going out on the highway is crazy and irresponsible. Driving a car with 1/2" toe out over 40 mph is placing yourself and other cars on the road at risk. Stay away from where my friends and I drive.
lowering the rear with springs or coilovers will also make the rear camber go negative; that is how you get the 3 degree negative. Fortunately the geometry of the mini rear will hold toe constant throughout the entire suspension travel range.
But then you are decreasing rear camber by shortening the lower control arms. this can alter the geometry and affect the toe setting. Monkeying around with your suspension when you don't know what you are doing and then going out on the highway is crazy and irresponsible. Driving a car with 1/2" toe out over 40 mph is placing yourself and other cars on the road at risk. Stay away from where my friends and I drive.
Originally Posted by jlm
my 2-bits:
lowering the rear with springs or coilovers will also make the rear camber go negative; that is how you get the 3 degree negative. Fortunately the geometry of the mini rear will hold toe constant throughout the entire suspension travel range.
But then you are decreasing rear camber by shortening the lower control arms. this can alter the geometry and affect the toe setting. Monkeying around with your suspension when you don't know what you are doing and then going out on the highway is crazy and irresponsible. Driving a car with 1/2" toe out over 40 mph is placing yourself and other cars on the road at risk. Stay away from where my friends and I drive.
lowering the rear with springs or coilovers will also make the rear camber go negative; that is how you get the 3 degree negative. Fortunately the geometry of the mini rear will hold toe constant throughout the entire suspension travel range.
But then you are decreasing rear camber by shortening the lower control arms. this can alter the geometry and affect the toe setting. Monkeying around with your suspension when you don't know what you are doing and then going out on the highway is crazy and irresponsible. Driving a car with 1/2" toe out over 40 mph is placing yourself and other cars on the road at risk. Stay away from where my friends and I drive.
Chill man
He's not trying to be irresponsible...He's just asking for good advice
There's plenty of idiots out there already...no need to be pointing at one of our member whom I personally know is not what you describe
Last edited by MSFITOY; Jun 12, 2004 at 08:50 PM.
Originally Posted by MSFITOY
Chill man
He's not being irrisponsible...just looking for good advice
There's plenty of idiots out there already...no need to be pointing at one of our member whom I personally know is not what you describe
He's not being irrisponsible...just looking for good advice
There's plenty of idiots out there already...no need to be pointing at one of our member whom I personally know is not what you describe
Yeah, my MCS back end has (had?) the tendency to get light during moderately heavy braking and begins squirming rapidly from side to side. No suspension mods, completely stock throughout. However, I don't think I've ever experienced that behavior since I replaced the Pirelli Euphorias with some Yokohamas (ES-100s). Definitely back during the earlier days of owning my MCS, braking could sometimes be a scary experience!
from the way it was described, while driving, 4 was aware of the following:
he was driving aggressively on the highway;
a control arm had been bent when towed;
the rear was toed out by 1/2"
4 doesn't really understand the rear suspension geometry and alignment and whoever let him drive his car away in that condition didn't either.
I doubt it was his intention to be irresponsible, but the fact is, if he were to have had an accident, what do you think the liability issues would be? Do you think his insurance carrier would investigate his personal responsibility before paying a claim? what if there were an injury?
I'm sure 4 is a fine fellow; my point is that monkeying around with your car when you don't know what you are doing and then going out on the highway puts yourself and others at risk and invites disaster.
Sensibly, every organzed car racing event I have been to asks for a waiver of responsibility and then does a technical inspection before letting you drive your modified car agressively on a closed course. And yet any yahoo can mess up his brakes, for example, in some misguided first time DIY, and hit the road, trying them out at 100mph on I-5.
he was driving aggressively on the highway;
a control arm had been bent when towed;
the rear was toed out by 1/2"
4 doesn't really understand the rear suspension geometry and alignment and whoever let him drive his car away in that condition didn't either.
I doubt it was his intention to be irresponsible, but the fact is, if he were to have had an accident, what do you think the liability issues would be? Do you think his insurance carrier would investigate his personal responsibility before paying a claim? what if there were an injury?
I'm sure 4 is a fine fellow; my point is that monkeying around with your car when you don't know what you are doing and then going out on the highway puts yourself and others at risk and invites disaster.
Sensibly, every organzed car racing event I have been to asks for a waiver of responsibility and then does a technical inspection before letting you drive your modified car agressively on a closed course. And yet any yahoo can mess up his brakes, for example, in some misguided first time DIY, and hit the road, trying them out at 100mph on I-5.
Last edited by jlm; Jun 13, 2004 at 05:58 AM.
The bent arms were caused by a tow truck and was replaced with the Hsport adjustables. This was prior to his incident on the highway. They suspect that the tow truck bent more than the arms
Hopefully not the subframe.
Hopefully not the subframe.
thanks sid for sticking up for me their, and yes sorry for the spelling i sometimes type a little fast and do not proof read so my spelling is a little goofy, sorry
but on a more serious note, sid is right the passinger controll arm was bent and then replaces with the ajustables, and the wheels where set to factory specs afterwords, as anyone would know or think it should act acordingly since all other inspections looked good, now when i took it out on some back roads away from known civilization i played with it to get a feel for the car and found that it driffted horrably easy, and the rear wanted to come out all the time,
so i went back and we played with the camber and pute it back to -3 and the toe was again back to normal we set it to stock and it turned to the excessice toe out so we then went in the middle and went to a test drive and the car handeled great and was very responsive and in hard cornering handeld better than ever before and i simpley cant stay at -3 because i was wasting my inside of my tire and was onley getting 7,000 miles out of them, now just recentley as you all know i was driving agressivley and finished a turn and while straigtning out the wheel breaked hard and the car got squrrily so i was asking if this was the result of the small toe out that i have, or if anyone has had a problem with different breaking problems or if this was just a problem with a rear sway bar, now i have auto crossed and did very well for a novice and pray that i am a good driver wich i have no write saying i am or not but i am just trying to find out if this was a normal thing for the mini since i have not had the problem before the mods happened quickley so i had n idea wich one was a factor for the squrriley carateristics but due to awsome help on this bored i have a better idea, the people i work with know what their doing and are simply awsome and i would trust them and their work over any other, but their could be a small chance that their is something that i am not seeing because of the towing and that needs to be adressed
thansk again
chris
but on a more serious note, sid is right the passinger controll arm was bent and then replaces with the ajustables, and the wheels where set to factory specs afterwords, as anyone would know or think it should act acordingly since all other inspections looked good, now when i took it out on some back roads away from known civilization i played with it to get a feel for the car and found that it driffted horrably easy, and the rear wanted to come out all the time,
so i went back and we played with the camber and pute it back to -3 and the toe was again back to normal we set it to stock and it turned to the excessice toe out so we then went in the middle and went to a test drive and the car handeled great and was very responsive and in hard cornering handeld better than ever before and i simpley cant stay at -3 because i was wasting my inside of my tire and was onley getting 7,000 miles out of them, now just recentley as you all know i was driving agressivley and finished a turn and while straigtning out the wheel breaked hard and the car got squrrily so i was asking if this was the result of the small toe out that i have, or if anyone has had a problem with different breaking problems or if this was just a problem with a rear sway bar, now i have auto crossed and did very well for a novice and pray that i am a good driver wich i have no write saying i am or not but i am just trying to find out if this was a normal thing for the mini since i have not had the problem before the mods happened quickley so i had n idea wich one was a factor for the squrriley carateristics but due to awsome help on this bored i have a better idea, the people i work with know what their doing and are simply awsome and i would trust them and their work over any other, but their could be a small chance that their is something that i am not seeing because of the towing and that needs to be adressed
thansk again
chris
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