Why should the transmission type affect the DV? I can see that the ECU might manage the DV diffently for auto vs. manual, but there's no difference in the stock part between auto and manual.

 

1 word. Clearance.

 

I don't understand either. Is there something next to the turbo I'm the auto that won't let the recirc valve stick out an extra inch? I don't have an auto... Is that where the trans oil dipstick is located?

I'll get a lot of hate for this, but why mod a car with an auto trans? Torque converters rob HP... Start with a stick before doing turbo mods, am I wrong? I know a couple of people on here do it because that's just the car they have or their preference but I was under the impression that there wasn't much of a market for performance parts specific to auto trans cars? Just my humble opinion. Educate (flame) me if you want for it. =P

 

Lol

 

Hmm...you might be right and that's the general statement that's said of the torque converter(yes, I've read countless articles how it works). But how come there was a guy with 245whp with a dyno chart on here on a N18 MCS? Our so called tuners said it wasn't possible for an auto to reach 230whp, and we found out that was a lie. So, it's not necessarily true but I get your point. Everyone has their reasons on what trans they use. And it's not impossible when John at DNA said he could get my auto MINI to run 245whp but I have to obtain higher octane.

Now on the subject of the DV not working on the manual, who knows, but sounds fishy. But either way I'm waiting for Battle to PM as soon as they get the price on it.

 

Guys, realize that I am not the person developing the DV+ and this is the information I was told in regards to the DV+ T9353 for the N18.

According to GFB AU the shift mechanism gets in the way of the solenoid coil on manuals so because of this, a revision is being made. T9353 DV+ for the N18 will only clear automatics and apparently in AU there is a bevy more automatics than manuals so I have no ETA on when this revision will be available.

I won't get into flaming of manuals vs autos but they both have their sides whether it's hoonigans or even those that either don't know how to drive a 6MT or can no longer drive a 6MT, it's all subjective and should be left as everyone's own choice as you've said. Performance is however you can push the envelop so our clients make due with what they have w/o breaking anything

Should know by tomorrow.

 

I have an automatic sending a PM.

 

This didn't sound right so I went and had a look at my car. I had to pull off the turbo inlet pipe from the air filter to get a good view, it's not the shift linkage, it is the turbo cooling. See #5 in the screengrab from realoem, and the pic for what it looks like in real life. I recall reading somewhere that there are slight differences in the cooling lines between the 6MT and the auto, so maybe that accounts for the issue. Or maybe it's because they're in Oz so everything is upside down. In anycase, this looks like an interesting part and I'll be following the progress for the N18.

 

Of course auto can get to top HP. Especially if the torque converter has a clutch built in to allow no loss of power at the top end, but auto trans always sacrifices low end power.

There are some very fancy and expensive auto trans on electric vehicles that are capable of shifting faster than a person can, and in those cases there is an advantage. But we're talking about 0-60 times of a few seconds and $100,000+ cars.

So you have an auto but have done a lot of mods? Next car will be a manual of auto for you?

 

Yes, that's different than my manual. Way less clearance. Cool! Thanks for being active Battle Tuning!

And I was just trying to be funny, but I am open to hearing about auto trans performance. I like my stick, but I know it's not everyone's favorite.

 

Agreed with other fast auto trans that shift quickly like a DSG or DCT. I would get any super car that has an auto. I plan on purchasing a BMW next, I don't care if it's either trans. I love both manual and auto. Now the auto trans in the MINI is the best but it suffices for my daily driving. I have a FMIC, Hot side pipe, FJCW exhaust with no cat, JB+(driving to NJ for Manics tune), future DV, and suspension work getting done next week(lowering).

 

Hmm, I quickly looked on my car (which is auto trans) and it looks very similar. I'm take a closer look tonight.

 

Looks like this would be a pretty easy install once that pipe is taken off, huh?

 

Thanks for the clarification squaw. We don't have a N18 in-house so it's hard to followup what I say.

Auto tranny will ultimately replace manuals sadly. That'll be a sad time but I hope my knee is intact long enough to see it stick around before it does

Correct. Only thing hard is getting to the bottom bolt on the DV since you can't really see it. Just have to align the hole to fit a bit piece in there.

 

I got the GFB DV+ for a week now and here is my review.

This is my third DV on my MCS 07. I went from OEM > 710D (Internal Swap) > GFB DV+ T9352

Just from examining the piston and spring, GFB DV+ is a million times more sturdier than the OEM or 710D setup. The GFB DV+ provides a noticable difference in throttle respones compare to the 710D. The GFB DV+ shines when the car is under boost at around 2700+ rpm. The stiffer/bigger spring on GFB DV+ does hold boost a bit better compare to the 710D. I did notice a really faint whistle noise at low rpm which the 710D had as well.

If you want a cheap upgrade to the MINI OEM DV with a slightly stiffer spring (2 more coils) and upgraded diaphragm/actuator, 710D is still better bang for your buck.

If you are currently running the MINI OEM DV, then GFB DV+ is definitely worth it in my humble opinion. However, if you are currently running a upgraded version like the 710D (Internal Swap) or WMW (I suspect it's the same as 710D), then I would consider what type boost level. I personally think 710D is fine on Stock/JCW Tuning Kit boost level but anything beyond that, I suggest getting something sturdier like the GFV DV+.

I'm happy with the product. Next time I see a boost leak related issue (P2885), I know for sure it won't be my DV.

 

Any tips on getting to the BOV to install? I haven't dug deep enough on this car but from the looks of it, it is fairly buried under hoses and such.

 

You're going to have to use an 8mm socket to slightly move the reservoir out of the way while still attached, I used a bungee cord from the reservoir to the hood latch. Once that's out of the way you're good to go, the reservoir should end up almost the mid point between the hood latch and where it's mounted. You might get a few drips of coolant but no need to worry about it.

 

@pidge1114

1. Remove the inlet tube
2. Remove the screw on the coolant tank
3. Lift the coolant tank up and you tie it down so it doesn't get in the way when you use your socket wrench. Use a couple of zip tie, make a loop and tie it to something.
4. Use a socket wrench extension and unscrew the screw near the bottom the vehiele, the 2 on the top is super easy.
5. Swap it and reverse the order. Add a bit oil on the GFB DV+ piston like the instruction said.

=D

 

Systemlord and Ch28Kid, thanks a lot! Doesnt sound too bad.

Just trying to decide between this and the Forge version.

 

It's easy peasy!

Sent from my Nexus using NAMotoring

 

It's as easy as pie once the reservoir is out of the way, I also removed the CAI piping to get even more work room.

You're welcome. The Forge unit is faster and wastes the least amount of boost pressure so when you're back on the throttle the response is instant! The Forge DV has less moving parts that are smaller, actually the only moving part is a rubber piston. As you can see from the pictures the Forge DV doesn't have that large coil to move, the piston is tiny in comparison. Those holes on the bottom of the Forge DV is where the air vents through, forgive for the uninstalled o-rings (pic #2). On the other hand the GFB DV+ seems like it will last forever, is solid built and costs a great deal less.

 

I would argue the GFB will be faster than the Forge because the electronic signal will produce a response far faster than the vacuum-actuated mechanism in the Forge.

 

I am thinking about this for my 2010, it has the stock turbo for now ( i want to either JCW or JM turbo ko3/5 in the future) and has the current changes:
Large FMIC
Evolve Tune
Evolve Catless DP
3inch exhaust
Alta intake

Do you guys think this is a good next upgrade or is there something else?

 

For the price it's hard to argue against it, especially if you're running higher boost than stock now or in the future. If you want, call it preventative maintenance because the stock DV will fail. Simply a matter of when, not if.

 

Thanks I just ordered one via an eBay seller, new in box for n14 at 120$, hopefully no issues with deal

DB