yes your absolutely right in that respect... however... the computer (save your case) knows that its not recirculating correctly and gets fussy... as far as damage goes or a bad A/F ratio, well theres is none, the computer is smart enough to keep a correct A/F using the MAF like you said... your not gonna harm anything. But a an overwhelming amount of us that tried it got a CEL and Limp Mode (No Boost)

Forge manufactured these for the MINI's because of their overwhelming popularity in the VW/AUDI world (Sound awesome for $40 why not right)... their computers are different from ours and do not throw CEL's.. so you can just put one in a VAG car and have zero ramifications for it (some report a slight power loss and take it out, once again its not a MINI so Minis react different). They use an almost identically DV system, (Which is why you can take their upgraded internals and swap them with ours)

 

Wanted to know the part number for the n18, but realized guys are talking N14's only.

Enjoy your rides..

 

The part in question, in this thread is here:
http://www.waymotorworks.com/forge-b...r-s-turbo.html

It will work on either N18 or N14 as the turbo and diverter valve are the same(aside from the N18 having a stronger diaphragm on it's diverter valve).

 

Take a look at this. FMDV60R for N18.

http://www.forgemotorsport.com/conte...oduct=FMDVR60R

 

Thanks...

 

I've had it installed for over 6 months on my '08 without issue. I've been thinking of putting the stiffer spring in just to see if there is any difference between the two, just out of curiosity.

 

Now then, thats the exact thought I had. I did not want to pay silly prices though. Anyone know where we can get a stiffer spring without the silly cost?

Tab

 

$20 shipped over Christmas for me. Worth not having to search all over and try multiple springs. My time is worth more than $20.

Sent from my XT926 using NAMotoring

 

I've had a Forge re-circ valve on my car for 8 months… No codes! Smooth sailing!

 

The re-circ valve wasn't an issue for some, it was the adaptor that vents to atmosphere is where the topic get heated. Some have issues with this adaptor while others do not.

 

I have a n18 engine. Did the adapter work? I heard and read it only works in n14 engines...

 

Since this topic was mentioned here, I'll ask for opinions.. I have a 08 S manual, n14. I installed the forge adapter and the alta spring at once. I loved the sound and the spring felt a noticeable difference in retaining boost between shifts. No CEL's although, I am experiencing a chirping noise if I accelerate quickly. The Alta directions simply states if it has this chirping/fluttering sound, reinstall it because the BOV/spring may be sticking but it doesn't say what to look for. Any ideas???

 

Could it be variability in the sensors? I have been thinking of going for a Mazda map sensor same series just more range these are OK Peirberg stuff, add in that you have an MAF and Diverter and crank case breather, maybe you get an addition of minor errors. If two people with the Diverter one with trouble one without meet up maybe you could swap sensors and check out the systems side to side. I might ask Forge to send along a rep and get a solution. Note differences in ECU's even same series could have different batch parts a friend who takes them apart doesn't think they are very fast to start with.

 

Not sure what you mean by chirp/flutter?

I do know that if I accelerate aggressively and shift at say red line, I will hear a chirp... Only Chirp, No Flutter.

According to my previous data logs, it seems I am maintaining boost, dumping via Diverter Valve (DV) and immediately building boost at completion of shift.

Flutter would indicate a torn diaphragm in the stock DV. It can also be experienced w/an aftermarket DV, due to a seized mechanical DV piston from lack of grease/exposure to dirt & grime, etc...

My Stock DV w/Alta spring has been working with no issues past 6-7mos. If I start hearing the flutter, end up in limp mode, or start dropping boost, I would immediately begin with an inspection of the stock DV diaphragm or aftermarket mechanical set-up.

 

Anytime I shifted, it made not only the whooshing noise I love but it came with a flutter noise and after I looked up what it could be, it could be damaging to the turbo even tho I felt a difference in power. Turns out it was most likely the Forge BOV adapter. Still have no clue why. But I'm now waiting for a new DV from Go fast Bits since the OEM was breaking its seal after taking it off a few times. I will probably still use the alta spring and will try it again with the forge adapter. It could of been because of it not sealing correctly.

Do you have a sound clip so I know for sure what the difference of the chirp and flutter noise? I thought it was one in the same and it's not good. When I shifted or even lifted my foot off the throttle , it would have that noise. Especially when it was more aggressive acceleration.

 

I don't have a clip... But if your stock DV is torn, that would be the flutter sound. Not the spring. The Forge adapter is probably amplifying the sound.

Im surprised that your MINI is not in Limp Mode. If you have a way to monitor boost, you should be able to see if you are reaching target boost, dumping and re-boosting upon shift. If there is flutter you should see low boost, or dropping quickly. If the spring is sticking, it would be holding boost longer than necessary, which could be damaging to the Turbo.

I heard good things about the GFB DV. Hope it all works out for you.

 

Yeah I'm surprised too. Right now, I have no choice but to drive it the way it is ( not beating on it) till Monday.

I do not have a gauge for boost pressure. When I took off the Forge, it has all sound (with intake) but no increase in acceleration and it even sounds like a boost leak. So I am taking it easy.

I am hoping I can still have the Forge adapter cause I just got it and love the louder whoosh sound when I get on it. But it may be stuck in its box unless I sell it. Ugh

Thanks for the explanation !

 

I have a question. Does the Alta spring shorten the woosh sound? I notice in the video on the first page the woosh lasts so long it kind of sounds like a big leak. On the other hand I think that is the full forge valve (250.00), where I am only getting the adapter (basically a spacer,$42.00 shipped from US on Ebay).

My stock blow off valve is stuck closed. it makes no sound right now. If i get on it and lift i get a CEL and limp (justa cooper) mode.

I have a new stock style bov on order and a forge adapter on order. I am on the fence about the spring.

I haven't found any thread on the steps to do this mod. I wonder which way to point the holes? I just read about the adapter supposedly not working for the N14 for one poster but not too much corroboration. I guess I am going to find out for myself this weekend. (unless I get the spring). Should I get the spring?

 

[QUOTE=HZBJCW;4074771] On the other hand I think that is the full forge valve (250.00), where I am only getting the adapter (basically a spacer,$42.00 shipped from US on Ebay).


I haven't found any thread on the steps to do this mod. I wonder which way to point the holes? I just read about the adapter supposedly not working for the N14 for one poster but not too much corroboration. I guess I am going to find out for myself this weekend./QUOQUOTE

I got mine of Aliexpress for AUD$17(sorry to break you heart) probably where the eBay ones come from. Install is straight forward and only mounts one way where the holes on the dv line up with the adapter. Mine is an N14 but Euro model so no MAF sensor and zero problems.

 

Thanks scubbysnacks, I searched all night and could not find the answer to that question. I did find a lot of threads and this same discussion is going on regarding the CEL. The common thread seems to be the people who actually try it seem to not have many problems and the the people who are adamant it will throw a CEL seem to be describing an engine management system using a MAF sensor (where the N14 actually uses a MAP sensor) and it sounds for the most part like they have not tried it or just heard from others. I am jumping in with both feet, will report the results.

 

I never had any issues on my n14. sounded great!

 

Not only that but its bloody loud. And if you have a auto and drive in sports mode as you decelerate you get the blow off + exhaust pop on gear change as the ECU maintains boost

 

Ok I took off my stock BOV. it pretty much fell apart while I was removing it, Cooked seals. I am still not seeing any holes. The bolt pattern is actually an equilateral triangle on the adapter right? (so there are 3 ways to mount the adapter) I wonder if the people who are getting CEL's just have it installed +/-120 degrees off? I know from the forge instructions (which by the way leave a lot to be desired, no pics of the product installed?) http://www.forgemotorsport.com/media/fmdvmcsrev.pdf the logo goes down. I don't think mine (ebay special) will have the logo, that said are the holes facing the front of the car or the rear?

update:

I found another picture of a forge adapter and the holes in relation to the logo would point to the front of the car. Anyone with a working set up care to chime in?

 

Those holes may look like they have equal spacing but they don't. When you get your spacer put your DV on it to line up the holes. On mine the holes are facing up and to the front of the car.

 

Very interesting. My ebay special adapter has holes on 2 sides, none on the bottom, so the issue died for me when I took the part out of the box. Put me in the column of people with no CEL issue. Installation was a breeze. For some reason it is way easier to pit it on than take off.

Here are some pics: The Adapter showing both set of holes. My old blow off valve that disintegrated when removed and my homemade intake. From all the posts I expected this to be very loud. I can only hear it with the radio off and everything quiet int he car. It is not that loud, if the a/c is on I cant hear it. No louder than the intake.

I seemed to have lost some low end power. My old valve was stuck closed so just after I shift now feels really low on power. city gas mileage is also the lowest I have ever seen on this car (25, and no I was not testing the woosh noise). Highway is low also about 29 ( I used to get 31-32 highway, 30 city). I think I will get the Alta spring after all. Also it could be my home made intake, although before all of this that intake increased my gas mileage 1 mpg. I wonder if my new blow off valve is from an old S. Sure does feel like it.