Drivetrain "rebuilding" the engine
#26
I have my mini apart right now to change pistons and do head touch up. I didnt have to take the engine completely out which was nice but the gaskets all come in a set so you will get all the gaskets anyways. Check out thumper heads and revolution heads. Thumper has a few options to look at. Maybe you can work out a deal on a good core w the vender if yours is cracked... The rocker assembly is touchy on these heads so you want a mini experienced machinist to do it. Trust me I have had my head off 4 times. Also get ARP head bolts in case you have to take it off again! it will pay off since you can use them multiple times.
Also thx i will go with the APR studs since i plan on maybe opening up the head in the future again
What should i be llooking for in the rocker assembly ?
am i missing something here? OP says he found water/antifreeze in the oil ...
i see no mention of at least looking at the rod big end and crank main bearings?
and what about checking the piston to cylinder fit, ring fit in the piston lands, the ring end gap, wrist pin to rod and wrist pin to piston?
no sense at all putting a new head on a bottom end ready to grenade
scott
i see no mention of at least looking at the rod big end and crank main bearings?
and what about checking the piston to cylinder fit, ring fit in the piston lands, the ring end gap, wrist pin to rod and wrist pin to piston?
no sense at all putting a new head on a bottom end ready to grenade
scott
Lastly i do not plan on touching the valve openings/sizes for now just to avoid any further problems ... but maybe in the future ... one never knows
#27
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The only thing you have to worry about with the rocker arms is when you set them back in place. The little plastic retainer rings can get pinched. Have your head guy check to see if the cam rocks back n fourth when its dry and all apart. Or clamp down the cam with the cam bearing caps only without rocker arm shafts and see if the cam gets tight. It needs to spin freely. And get a "newman cam" in there!
#29
2005 R53 badly overheated and now it wont start
You have lots of good preventive MX stuff listed, but did you actually fix anything or just take it apart, the reassemble it? I understand you just hoping the bottom end is OK, but if it is all apart, did you check the pistons/rings? block for SQUARE and the head? YOU know it was overheated badly..and would not run...find out WHY it would not run...the head gasket can be CAUSE or EFFECT....
Sounds like you have lots of good parts and a decent plan, hopefully it will be running soon!
My gut says if you have a CAM, you will want bigger injectors and a tune when you can scrape up the cash!!
#31
Would it be ok to just change the camshaft for now eventhough the car has about 140000km (87.5k miles) ... could putting a new camshaft with old valves and seals cause a problem ???
One question....ever find the cause of the water in the oil? Or WHY it would not start/run?
You have lots of good preventive MX stuff listed, but did you actually fix anything or just take it apart, the reassemble it? I understand you just hoping the bottom end is OK, but if it is all apart, did you check the pistons/rings? block for SQUARE and the head? YOU know it was overheated badly..and would not run...find out WHY it would not run...the head gasket can be CAUSE or EFFECT....
Sounds like you have lots of good parts and a decent plan, hopefully it will be running soon!
My gut says if you have a CAM, you will want bigger injectors and a tune when you can scrape up the cash!!
You have lots of good preventive MX stuff listed, but did you actually fix anything or just take it apart, the reassemble it? I understand you just hoping the bottom end is OK, but if it is all apart, did you check the pistons/rings? block for SQUARE and the head? YOU know it was overheated badly..and would not run...find out WHY it would not run...the head gasket can be CAUSE or EFFECT....
Sounds like you have lots of good parts and a decent plan, hopefully it will be running soon!
My gut says if you have a CAM, you will want bigger injectors and a tune when you can scrape up the cash!!
Now i just need to wait for the parts to arrive ... hope its soon
Last edited by mgrant; 01-20-2013 at 07:02 PM.
#32
#34
#35
That water falls into the cylinder when removing the head, not when the car is running (or it would stop running in a great hurry). Good luck with your fuel leak.
#37
so the fuel leak headed up being a worn out gasket on injector 1. the gasket in question is the one between the fuel rail and the injector ... parts should arrive sometime tmrw morning
Now a quick question regarding injectors. When i took the fuel rail out i had to leave the injectors in the intake manifold since i could not get them out. Unfortunatly when doing so i removed the retaining clips on the injectors.
Now when comes time to put everything back together I was wondering where in which groove of the injectors did the clip go into. Is it the one closest to the fuel rail (goes completement around the injector) or is it the lower one (groove on either side) ???
Also are there any tips for installing the fuel rail with the injectors already in the manifold ?
Thx in advance
Now a quick question regarding injectors. When i took the fuel rail out i had to leave the injectors in the intake manifold since i could not get them out. Unfortunatly when doing so i removed the retaining clips on the injectors.
Now when comes time to put everything back together I was wondering where in which groove of the injectors did the clip go into. Is it the one closest to the fuel rail (goes completement around the injector) or is it the lower one (groove on either side) ???
Also are there any tips for installing the fuel rail with the injectors already in the manifold ?
Thx in advance
#39
As for my problem i was able to figure it out ... the clips go on the lower groove and can be snap in place when the fuel rail is pushed down hence i dont need to remove the injectors as of yet
#40
#42
As mentionned the injectors will be changed this summer so ...
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