Drivetrain Chinese FMIC
Ok, Gentlemen. It's time for someone to suggest that you take this back and forth to a private message or perhaps start a different thread. This thread has the potential to be helpful to those that might be considering the purchase of this particular FMIC or those that already have. Can we please get back to the thread topic? I know I would appreciate it! Thank you! 

Not getting your point. This thread is about the Chinese FMIC and we have been trying to get people that were claiming that it was a miracle FMIC to post up figures. Simply coming on to the site and making claims without empirical data to back it is not logical. So, we are keeping it real so that someone looking to chase bigger numbers don't toss money away.
What other information in this thread is "helpful"?
The useful things in this thread is that some people had a part that didn't fit, and some people had a fmic that fit. That is the most useful thing that I have gotten out of here. Others that have seen the ebay ads can do a search here and make a decision.
It is unrealistic that someone who is trying to save $350 is going to spend money for dyno time before and after the install. I've bought a Helix IC, but don't plan on doing any dyno runs before or after the install. I don't know if I will notice a difference, but I will convince myself that it was $600 well spent.
Have fun,
Mike
It is unrealistic that someone who is trying to save $350 is going to spend money for dyno time before and after the install. I've bought a Helix IC, but don't plan on doing any dyno runs before or after the install. I don't know if I will notice a difference, but I will convince myself that it was $600 well spent.
Have fun,
Mike
It is unrealistic that someone who is trying to save $350 is going to spend money for dyno time before and after the install. I've bought a Helix IC, but don't plan on doing any dyno runs before or after the install. I don't know if I will notice a difference, but I will convince myself that it was $600 well spent.
Have fun,
Mike
Have fun,
Mike
Not sure what happened over the last few years, but this site used to be about trying to get the best bang for your buck, not tossing money after Chinese knockoffs that have never even been tested for leaks!
I'm done on this thread so enjoy your knockoffs and your ride.
haha... NAM proves time and time again to be a waste of time....every thread is just two are three stubborn passive aggressive forum jockeys arguing over a side issue half relating to the thread topic. Its tiring.... go find something better to do...
watch.. what happens.
watch.. what happens.
haha... NAM proves time and time again to be a waste of time....every thread is just two are three stubborn passive aggressive forum jockeys arguing over a side issue half relating to the thread topic. Its tiring.... go find something better to do...
watch.. what happens.
watch.. what happens.

I assume I am one of the ones you are talking about, so please feel free to explain how I am being passive aggressive by asking for proof?
People who argue on a forum over anything. Everyone has their own opinion. Some people shouldn't.
Back to the FMIC, OP when you get a chance let us know how it worked for you? I am curious how it has worked out for you with hotter temperatures.
Back to the FMIC, OP when you get a chance let us know how it worked for you? I am curious how it has worked out for you with hotter temperatures.
Fmic
The initial Post was in July 2012. I posted after my install December 2012.
Now it is March 2013. Mine is working fine. It feels stronger, but as someone else said, I am not going to a Dyno to prove it. Like other modifications to intake system from a variety of things, it probably is hard to see a difference, and unless you have a Dyno on the cheap, it just isn't worth the effort.
Pinging on someones "knowledge" or lack of it, in NAM, seems childish. Having a "Supplier" like Helix involved, might be interesting, were they to do a back to back test. To see if you do get what you pay for. I suspect they have the Dyno closer than most of us.
My car has absolutely no change in drive-ability. And it feels better on full boost. I am watching IAT's. They seem lower. On a hot day, relatively, 10 degrees. Again, I didn't document IAT's before and after.
What I do have is 35 years of Aerospace manufacturing experience. I can tell you the Chinese, as well as all big American companies, reverse Engineer competitors products, everyday. So maybe, the present set of FMIC manufactures did the Engineering research, development, testing and validations, on their product. And did it without any help from looking at any Intercooler anywhere. Or maybe they built off a knowledge base they have or contracted out? Maybe their FMIC is made in the US, or maybe it is sourced in a Low Cost Region?
What the true cost to develop, manufacture, and support any FMIC, and then collect a profit on that, is why a Low Cost Manufacturer has come into the market. This is a fact in the present Global Marketplace. Deciding to buy a US designed and manufactured FMIC is an option. I just am not sure that is what any of the present US FMIC retailers have?
But following a US only purchasing philosophy would be a complex option these days.
I liken this to the discussion on the best CAI's. And the same for Exhaust systems. It would be great to have an independent lab compare the different systems. On the other hand, I am glad that so many companies are offering so many alternatives to the market of Mini's.
Now it is March 2013. Mine is working fine. It feels stronger, but as someone else said, I am not going to a Dyno to prove it. Like other modifications to intake system from a variety of things, it probably is hard to see a difference, and unless you have a Dyno on the cheap, it just isn't worth the effort.
Pinging on someones "knowledge" or lack of it, in NAM, seems childish. Having a "Supplier" like Helix involved, might be interesting, were they to do a back to back test. To see if you do get what you pay for. I suspect they have the Dyno closer than most of us.
My car has absolutely no change in drive-ability. And it feels better on full boost. I am watching IAT's. They seem lower. On a hot day, relatively, 10 degrees. Again, I didn't document IAT's before and after.
What I do have is 35 years of Aerospace manufacturing experience. I can tell you the Chinese, as well as all big American companies, reverse Engineer competitors products, everyday. So maybe, the present set of FMIC manufactures did the Engineering research, development, testing and validations, on their product. And did it without any help from looking at any Intercooler anywhere. Or maybe they built off a knowledge base they have or contracted out? Maybe their FMIC is made in the US, or maybe it is sourced in a Low Cost Region?
What the true cost to develop, manufacture, and support any FMIC, and then collect a profit on that, is why a Low Cost Manufacturer has come into the market. This is a fact in the present Global Marketplace. Deciding to buy a US designed and manufactured FMIC is an option. I just am not sure that is what any of the present US FMIC retailers have?
But following a US only purchasing philosophy would be a complex option these days.
I liken this to the discussion on the best CAI's. And the same for Exhaust systems. It would be great to have an independent lab compare the different systems. On the other hand, I am glad that so many companies are offering so many alternatives to the market of Mini's.
I don't think that anyone has "pinged" anyone here. All that has been said, is that nobody can say that it has improved performance without proper testing. All we have right now is a butt dyno and without putting a car on the Dyno before and after, we won't really know. IC's can provide a noticeable change in hp unlike CAI's.
That being said, if you are happy with your purchase then great, enjoy it!
That being said, if you are happy with your purchase then great, enjoy it!
Yup, if you are happy, enjoy it. One thing to consider if you plan to remove your performance parts before you sell your car: whats fair market value down the road? What's a used Helix ic going for? What about a used Chinese knockoff?
I have not done much research so cannot say for sure but you might make up a good chunk of that $350 difference there... Plus you'll have had a quality item for the duration.
Something to consider...
Not 1:1 but let me add camera lens example: you pay through the nose for pro glass but if you ever sell you can often recoup most of your $$$, Sometime more. I bought a new 14-24 2.8 lens and a few years later sold it for more than I paid for it. Before that I had a cheap Sigma 15-30 that I resold and didn't get much for it. I lost money on the cheaper item.
I have not done much research so cannot say for sure but you might make up a good chunk of that $350 difference there... Plus you'll have had a quality item for the duration.
Something to consider...
Not 1:1 but let me add camera lens example: you pay through the nose for pro glass but if you ever sell you can often recoup most of your $$$, Sometime more. I bought a new 14-24 2.8 lens and a few years later sold it for more than I paid for it. Before that I had a cheap Sigma 15-30 that I resold and didn't get much for it. I lost money on the cheaper item.
Last edited by DasCooper; Apr 3, 2013 at 10:33 AM. Reason: Eg added
wow, I think the only thing I got from this thread is that the chinese knockoffs might work, but might not be worth the hassle because of shipping that far and possibility of getting wrong product.
Also, would never buy a helix IC due to their attitude towards people in this thread.
If someone has it wrong, I'm sure helix could bang out a 2 minute post explaining how they are wrong instead of just pretty much insulting them. Bad business.
Also, would never buy a helix IC due to their attitude towards people in this thread.
If someone has it wrong, I'm sure helix could bang out a 2 minute post explaining how they are wrong instead of just pretty much insulting them. Bad business.
I've been away from this post for a long while, mainly due to the multiple unhelpful, critical and rude posts that are (unfortunately) normal for an open forum such as this. It always happens and I always just shake my head and go on with life. Most of us have a great deal more to do than crank out thousands of insulting posts to forum members that we've never met. And though I've not read EVERY post, I don't recall seeing Helix reps trashing other members. Unless daflake is a Helix rep, I think that the boycott of Helix might be a little rash. They make a fine IC, do a great deal of R&D (assuming), and seem to be very helpful to their customers. (Hearsay - I've not ordered anything from them yet.) But when I need something from them, I wouldn't hesitate. Unfortunately, manufacturers from other countries can and do reverse engineer IC's and are able to sell them for significantly less. In my case, the difference was over $500. Worth the risk, in my opinion, to give the knockoff a try. This might frustrate Helix installers but Helix executives are the ones that need to consider what to do about this unfortunate reality. (i.e. find ways to reduce the cost of their own item).
The real benefit of this thread is to inform potential buyers (of a specific knockoff) about what to expect from the supplier. What problems, if any, did people have when ordering? How long did it take to ship? What was it's condition when it arrived? Was it the same as the picture? Did it fit or need modifications? Did you notice any adverse symptoms after the install? I came here for answers to these kinds of questions. Not to read numerous taunts about "show me the numbers" from someone that hasn't and wasn't planning to purchase one in the first place!
The real benefit of this thread is to inform potential buyers (of a specific knockoff) about what to expect from the supplier. What problems, if any, did people have when ordering? How long did it take to ship? What was it's condition when it arrived? Was it the same as the picture? Did it fit or need modifications? Did you notice any adverse symptoms after the install? I came here for answers to these kinds of questions. Not to read numerous taunts about "show me the numbers" from someone that hasn't and wasn't planning to purchase one in the first place!
I've been away from this post for a long while, mainly due to the multiple unhelpful, critical and rude posts that are (unfortunately) normal for an open forum such as this. It always happens and I always just shake my head and go on with life. Most of us have a great deal more to do than crank out thousands of insulting posts to forum members that we've never met. And though I've not read EVERY post, I don't recall seeing Helix reps trashing other members. Unless daflake is a Helix rep, I think that the boycott of Helix might be a little rash. They make a fine IC, do a great deal of R&D (assuming), and seem to be very helpful to their customers. (Hearsay - I've not ordered anything from them yet.) But when I need something from them, I wouldn't hesitate. Unfortunately, manufacturers from other countries can and do reverse engineer IC's and are able to sell them for significantly less. In my case, the difference was over $500. Worth the risk, in my opinion, to give the knockoff a try. This might frustrate Helix installers but Helix executives are the ones that need to consider what to do about this unfortunate reality. (i.e. find ways to reduce the cost of their own item).
The real benefit of this thread is to inform potential buyers (of a specific knockoff) about what to expect from the supplier. What problems, if any, did people have when ordering? How long did it take to ship? What was it's condition when it arrived? Was it the same as the picture? Did it fit or need modifications? Did you notice any adverse symptoms after the install? I came here for answers to these kinds of questions. Not to read numerous taunts about "show me the numbers" from someone that hasn't and wasn't planning to purchase one in the first place!
The real benefit of this thread is to inform potential buyers (of a specific knockoff) about what to expect from the supplier. What problems, if any, did people have when ordering? How long did it take to ship? What was it's condition when it arrived? Was it the same as the picture? Did it fit or need modifications? Did you notice any adverse symptoms after the install? I came here for answers to these kinds of questions. Not to read numerous taunts about "show me the numbers" from someone that hasn't and wasn't planning to purchase one in the first place!
As for price, that's why in the spring and fall, Helix has the intercooler at a price of $579 and if y'all reach 20 people it costs $504 with free shipping. So, the price is pretty good if you have patience. Forge and Alta kill your pockets. But I still love Forge products.
I just wouldn't want any issues with a knockoff intercooler. When has anything cheap on cars actually worked? I'm curious to what answers people would have.
I ran a flea-bay intercooler on my RX-7 is a custom V-mount setup, improved IAT and my loss in pressure was less than 1psi due to increased size so it worked like a intercooler and never failed..... As long as it fits and the welds are ok shouldn't have any problems it may not cool as good as the original company's design but should be better than stock or has been in my experience.
Sent from my iPhone using NAMotoring
Sent from my iPhone using NAMotoring
Helix is a great company, always answered my questions and helped with the install of my intercooler.
As for price, that's why in the spring and fall, Helix has the intercooler at a price of $579 and if y'all reach 20 people it costs $504 with free shipping. So, the price is pretty good if you have patience. Forge and Alta kill your pockets. But I still love Forge products.
I just wouldn't want any issues with a knockoff intercooler. When has anything cheap on cars actually worked? I'm curious to what answers people would have.
As for price, that's why in the spring and fall, Helix has the intercooler at a price of $579 and if y'all reach 20 people it costs $504 with free shipping. So, the price is pretty good if you have patience. Forge and Alta kill your pockets. But I still love Forge products.
I just wouldn't want any issues with a knockoff intercooler. When has anything cheap on cars actually worked? I'm curious to what answers people would have.
I don't find that good CS. Maybe they don't have time to teach us car modding newbies how IC work, but I've seen other vendors like WMW and ECS tuning answering questions left and right with diagrams and links to parts.
Find the quote he said that in, I will believe you then. Otherwise, use their email or phone number, I did that as many others did when I was installing it, no issues. They'll answer 5,000 questions if needed.
I plan on running one. There is no reason to spend more than $300 on an intercooler. It's A bar and plate design just like every other air to air intercooler ever made. The name brand junkies need to lay off the cool aid. I ran and eBay intercooler and an eBay reinforced turbo manifold on my 400+hp RX7 for years and I've run/built multiple fullout track cars with eBay intercoolers and radiators with no issues ( remember mishimoto started on eBay and so did Megan racing).
I picked up the FMIC off aliexpress, and seem to have had an experience contrary to some in this thread. I've got a pre-owned low mileage 2008 MCS that is gradually being built up on a bit of a budget.
The link I bought it off of mentioned nothing about new grills, or mounting hardware included but it fit fine using stock mounts and with a little care the original clamps and clips were very much re-usable. I had it installed at a local tuner who tested for leaks bother prior to, and after installation with out issue. It did arrive with a bit of a dent on one of the ports, but that was an easy fix. All in it came to $235 with shipping to western Canada.
Shipping took ~ 2 weeks from receipt of payment, I used Western Union since the site was having issues processing my credit card at the time. Since then I've bought some random things without any trouble.
At the same time I had them remove the intercooler muffler thingy, so the car sounds a little bit sportier. Unfortunately I had all the work done in the fall, and haven't been able to push the car in hot weather which is where I would expect to see the most gains. It is definitely happier in stop and go traffic, and has been said before it just "feels" better. Both from my perspective as a driver, and from my very experienced mini co-pilot. I've driven dozens of r56's, so my butt dyno may be better calibrated than some.
As for the price, I got what I paid for... an intercooler. It's ~250% larger than stock, so it can't help but be more efficient. By how much, I don't know for sure but I doubt I'd see 4x's more power from a more expensive product. Even with having someone else do the work due to time/weather constraints I'm still well below the cost of other intercoolers.
I'll do my best to get some numbers once I'm done my budget build up, but as is the case with most folks around here the biggest gain will be found with the accessport and eventual custom remapping.
The link I bought it off of mentioned nothing about new grills, or mounting hardware included but it fit fine using stock mounts and with a little care the original clamps and clips were very much re-usable. I had it installed at a local tuner who tested for leaks bother prior to, and after installation with out issue. It did arrive with a bit of a dent on one of the ports, but that was an easy fix. All in it came to $235 with shipping to western Canada.
Shipping took ~ 2 weeks from receipt of payment, I used Western Union since the site was having issues processing my credit card at the time. Since then I've bought some random things without any trouble.
At the same time I had them remove the intercooler muffler thingy, so the car sounds a little bit sportier. Unfortunately I had all the work done in the fall, and haven't been able to push the car in hot weather which is where I would expect to see the most gains. It is definitely happier in stop and go traffic, and has been said before it just "feels" better. Both from my perspective as a driver, and from my very experienced mini co-pilot. I've driven dozens of r56's, so my butt dyno may be better calibrated than some.
As for the price, I got what I paid for... an intercooler. It's ~250% larger than stock, so it can't help but be more efficient. By how much, I don't know for sure but I doubt I'd see 4x's more power from a more expensive product. Even with having someone else do the work due to time/weather constraints I'm still well below the cost of other intercoolers.
I'll do my best to get some numbers once I'm done my budget build up, but as is the case with most folks around here the biggest gain will be found with the accessport and eventual custom remapping.
I'm not entirely sure how you thought I might be joking?
Perhaps you missed where I mentioned boost was checked before and after install? With a negligible drop in pressure, increased surface area, and over all better materials than the OEM intercooler (Aluminum vs Plastic) the new intercooler is an improvement over stock. It should make for a cooler, denser charge, and be less prone to heat soak. Is it as good as the Forge design it parrots? or Alta's? Maybe not, but are they 3-4x's more effective than it is?
If you look at just about every single offering for an upgraded FMIC for the r56 you'll see they're all around the 250% mark. It's not a coincidence, that just happens to be the sweat spot people have found for a net gain in power via a cooler charge vs loss in pressure.
You can get gains via materials and engineering as well, and/or going the Water to Air route like DoS has. As much as I want one, I don't have thousands to spend on one.
I'll agree that bigger isn't always better, which is why we don't see some sort of crazy arms race in how large of an intercooler people cram into the front of a car. That sort of nonsense seems to be relegated to the exhaust size discussions :P
Perhaps you missed where I mentioned boost was checked before and after install? With a negligible drop in pressure, increased surface area, and over all better materials than the OEM intercooler (Aluminum vs Plastic) the new intercooler is an improvement over stock. It should make for a cooler, denser charge, and be less prone to heat soak. Is it as good as the Forge design it parrots? or Alta's? Maybe not, but are they 3-4x's more effective than it is?
If you look at just about every single offering for an upgraded FMIC for the r56 you'll see they're all around the 250% mark. It's not a coincidence, that just happens to be the sweat spot people have found for a net gain in power via a cooler charge vs loss in pressure.
You can get gains via materials and engineering as well, and/or going the Water to Air route like DoS has. As much as I want one, I don't have thousands to spend on one.
I'll agree that bigger isn't always better, which is why we don't see some sort of crazy arms race in how large of an intercooler people cram into the front of a car. That sort of nonsense seems to be relegated to the exhaust size discussions :P
I'm not sure if it's worth even responding to this. Your posts are littered with errors and misconceptions. It's hard for me to find a respectful way of saying this, so I apologise for the bluntness: you have a vague concept of intercooler design and efficacy. Try doing some reading on intercooler design and interactions with electronically controlled turbochargers. Pay attention to Efficiency, Pressure drop, Boost targets, Wastegate duty cycle, Fin density and laminar vs. turbulent flow.
I've got a pretty solid understanding of intercooler design, certainly better than most. If I've made a specific error, please let me know. I'd like nothing more to learn from people who get to do what you folks do for a living.
Here's what I know/understand to be true (if I'm wrong don't be afraid to re-educate me);
For every degree cooler you get compressed air, you get .25%ish more air, more air means more fuel, more fuel means more power. The equation is very rough, but close enough for the internet. That's why even a 10 degree drop can be very beneficial to over all power gains. Turbos push thousands of liters of air around, air density adds up fast with any sort of forced induction.
Compressing the air in a turbo increases both it's density and temperature, and pressure is lost as the hot air expands. Cooling the air helps retain the air density the turbo worked so hard to achieve. It's a fine line to walk to cool the air with out losing too much pressure, but so long as you've got an improved source of cooler compressed air for your engine to gulp down you'll go faster. Sometimes cooler is better, sometimes more pressure is better.
Laminar flow is bad for heat transfer. There will always be a slower moving warmer current of liquid (air). Laminar Flow is very good for well, flow. Pressure is much more easily retained in a system that is built to be conducive to laminar flow. It's also much more predictable to model.
You've got good looking tanks on your product, and what looks to be very nice materials and workmanship that promote laminar flow, over come boost loss and when all is said and done, make great power. All the good you've done with engineering easily over comes the inherent disadvantages to heat transfer with laminar flow.
Turbulent flow is great for heat transfer. Turbulent flow is bad for... flow. Most industrial cooling applications are built to encourage turbulence, but a turbulent system needs more management to maintain pressure and constant flow rates.
I've got a cheap intercooler, that loses boost pressure (but is still comparable to the OEM part in that regard) but does a decent enough job cooling the air. It's got some rough edges, and odd angles that introduce turbulence, In the end there's more cooling than boost loss, and it makes more power. It's dependence on using brute force (for lack of a better term) on the cooling side of things to over come pressure loss would be a liability in a car with more boost. You couldn't simply make it bigger to make it better (like the ricers who experience turbo lag blaming it on have a bigger intercooler to "fill-up"), you'd simply have to make it better which is what I hope most aftermarket vendors are doing.
Where I'm headed that's good enough. The r56 ECU likes cold air (esp with the stock programming), and with my goal of having a zippier daily driver, not a track eating monster I wont be at a loss for boost pressure.
If I was chasing 250+ WHP, running on air I can assure you that your product would be at the top of my list.
It's never been my inference that this intercooler is better than any specific after market option. I'll simply contend it's a winner in the price vs. performance equation, at least when it comes to my needs, and that's it's better than OEM.
Other people have had negative experiences with this product, I luckily have not.
Someone looking to make big safe power should look elsewhere, there's never anything to be had on the cheap if that's your goal.
Here's what I know/understand to be true (if I'm wrong don't be afraid to re-educate me);
For every degree cooler you get compressed air, you get .25%ish more air, more air means more fuel, more fuel means more power. The equation is very rough, but close enough for the internet. That's why even a 10 degree drop can be very beneficial to over all power gains. Turbos push thousands of liters of air around, air density adds up fast with any sort of forced induction.
Compressing the air in a turbo increases both it's density and temperature, and pressure is lost as the hot air expands. Cooling the air helps retain the air density the turbo worked so hard to achieve. It's a fine line to walk to cool the air with out losing too much pressure, but so long as you've got an improved source of cooler compressed air for your engine to gulp down you'll go faster. Sometimes cooler is better, sometimes more pressure is better.
Laminar flow is bad for heat transfer. There will always be a slower moving warmer current of liquid (air). Laminar Flow is very good for well, flow. Pressure is much more easily retained in a system that is built to be conducive to laminar flow. It's also much more predictable to model.
You've got good looking tanks on your product, and what looks to be very nice materials and workmanship that promote laminar flow, over come boost loss and when all is said and done, make great power. All the good you've done with engineering easily over comes the inherent disadvantages to heat transfer with laminar flow.
Turbulent flow is great for heat transfer. Turbulent flow is bad for... flow. Most industrial cooling applications are built to encourage turbulence, but a turbulent system needs more management to maintain pressure and constant flow rates.
I've got a cheap intercooler, that loses boost pressure (but is still comparable to the OEM part in that regard) but does a decent enough job cooling the air. It's got some rough edges, and odd angles that introduce turbulence, In the end there's more cooling than boost loss, and it makes more power. It's dependence on using brute force (for lack of a better term) on the cooling side of things to over come pressure loss would be a liability in a car with more boost. You couldn't simply make it bigger to make it better (like the ricers who experience turbo lag blaming it on have a bigger intercooler to "fill-up"), you'd simply have to make it better which is what I hope most aftermarket vendors are doing.
Where I'm headed that's good enough. The r56 ECU likes cold air (esp with the stock programming), and with my goal of having a zippier daily driver, not a track eating monster I wont be at a loss for boost pressure.
If I was chasing 250+ WHP, running on air I can assure you that your product would be at the top of my list.
It's never been my inference that this intercooler is better than any specific after market option. I'll simply contend it's a winner in the price vs. performance equation, at least when it comes to my needs, and that's it's better than OEM.
Other people have had negative experiences with this product, I luckily have not.
Someone looking to make big safe power should look elsewhere, there's never anything to be had on the cheap if that's your goal.
Just my opinion.
This is what I am waiting on, and even then, I would still have to think long and hard about the investment.
because this is what I believe
Helix is a great company, always answered my questions and helped with the install of my intercooler.
As for price, that's why in the spring and fall, Helix has the intercooler at a price of $579 and if y'all reach 20 people it costs $504 with free shipping. So, the price is pretty good if you have patience. Forge and Alta kill your pockets. But I still love Forge products.
I just wouldn't want any issues with a knockoff intercooler. When has anything cheap on cars actually worked? I'm curious to what answers people would have.
As for price, that's why in the spring and fall, Helix has the intercooler at a price of $579 and if y'all reach 20 people it costs $504 with free shipping. So, the price is pretty good if you have patience. Forge and Alta kill your pockets. But I still love Forge products.
I just wouldn't want any issues with a knockoff intercooler. When has anything cheap on cars actually worked? I'm curious to what answers people would have.
I plan on running one. There is no reason to spend more than $300 on an intercooler. It's A bar and plate design just like every other air to air intercooler ever made. The name brand junkies need to lay off the cool aid. I ran and eBay intercooler and an eBay reinforced turbo manifold on my 400+hp RX7 for years and I've run/built multiple fullout track cars with eBay intercoolers and radiators with no issues ( remember mishimoto started on eBay and so did Megan racing).



.. I tried.