has anyone recently have problems with their ecu after jan tuned it?? i got mine back after 3 weeks of him having it and ive lost half the power my car was making prior to sending it to him, it feels like i am driving a non s mini cooper right now. im showing max 8 psi of boost on my torque app on my phone, and it was 14 psi prior to me sending it to him. i am trying to reach him to see whats going on and cannot reach him for 24 hours now. getting a little bit frustrated

 

The Toyota Grand Prix of Long Beach is this weekend (April 13 – 15,) and he is working with Team Hot Wheels on the porsche. The last minute things may be keeping him more busy than normal. You can try his phone, but I just figured you would want to know he has been working on this car and it could be his phone is off if they have an issue to resolve or something keeping him from calling back right away. Hope things get sorted for you soon.

This is where he is.

http://www.caymaninterseries.org/node/410

And this is the first place trophy the Hot Wheels team won on his tune.

 

busy man huh. i got a email this morning to send it back for retune. hope he brings her back to life soon.

 

well i got the ecu back today, though it on and went on a test drive, same ****, 6-8 psi of boost max, no check engine light this time, but this is not what i paid for... im starting to think he hasnt cracked how to do the 2011 version properly yet..

 

Never underestimate the possibility of a mechanical issue...
Not all problems are the result of the tuner!!
Simple test is he should still have a copy of the stock tune...in a few minutes he could go back to it...you can check your boost levels...
and complaining of waiting 24 hrs for a answer to a e-mail!?
common, folks, no matter how dedicated have things they need to do, and a life outside of cars!! Give him a break!

 

that was the first time i was frustrated that i had to wait 2 plus weeks to get it back and it wasnt tuned right. its been a month without driving the cooper right now and i think i forgot how to drive it!

 

That sucks. You have tomorrow just to double check all fittings. I don't know those cars, or what might get bumped or moved while taking out the ECU so I can 't be of any help. He does have cars working well with the tune, so it is worth the time to make sure, but if they changed something mid-production it wouldn't show up until a failure on the first car it was done on. Good luck with a quick fix. Nothing worse than trouble shooting.

 

So this was a custom taylor tune where you send your ECU in and they send it back with the bois flashed with a better tune according to you products that you have installed. I assume you have a n18 engine 2011 mini cooper s. You might need to buy a stock ecu from mini cooper and cross check according to you mini bentley book to make sure that it is nothing that your car has wrong with it.
Switching around batch files and things of that nature in this type of business can sometimes have adverse effects you have more then one computer on board in your vechical get some good obd2 software and a stock ecu and start checking things off the list.
One more thing its outragous I know but sometimes when you put something robust weather its just replacing a part or installing a tune you can blow a fuse or worse.
Example I changed the alternator in my 2008 mellow yellow S and right off the bat it blew the parking light bulb. Just because it was running optimal power not that it was a hard core alternator it was stock.
I have been in the performance realm for years now mid 90's when the mountain man was gettin 900 horse on pump gas with a big block.
another example got a wire harness for a truck I had not mini but still! this wire harness was painless wiring harnesses the best in the business. Hooked it up did not work on bit thought I hooked it up wrong thought all kinds of things it was supposed to be plug and play. Well I come to find out it blew out the older but not original to the vechical fuel pump. So again it might not be a bad tune as much as other things being diffiCULT.

 

ive only installed an intake and a catless downpipe and on the stock tune it worked great. i dont see what possible on my end may be wrong if everything worked perfect when i took the ecu off. i am trying too see if i can come to his shop and see if he can fix this with my car being there, i hope he responds soon. im only 400 miles from his shop..

 

the catless downpipe does that thing throw a light in the cabin. Or did you indeed do the o2 sensor delete?

 

i dont have any lights yet, and i did tell him to do the o2 delete when he was doing the tune. he knows what mods i have done.

 

wanna do a little steaming!!! i drove 900 miles round trip to visit jan yesterday to get my issue taken care off, we spend half the day trying to figure out why my car only has 120 hp on the dyno, the computer kept throwing the code diverter valve shortage to ground, even though before coming to him i changed my air diverter valve with a new one from the dealer , he thought it was something wrong with my wiring harness... we ran out of options and told me to go see if the dealer can fix it, the dealer noticed someone was tempering with my dme/ecu and voided the warranty on it, so i took the car back before they void more ****. wasted another 160 bucks at the dealer to tell me what i already know... drove back to town and gave my car to a good bmw / electrical tech i know really well. he opened up the dme and found why im having all thes codes and issues, the tabs or connections are bend on the dme as u can see in the pic. i really dont know what to do right now, based on everyones experienced seems like he was a very good guy to tune the car with, but he damaged my dme/ecu and tuned it anyway thinking my car would work fine??? im so mad/angry atm , i dont know what to do, if my friend wont be able to fix the dme im out another 1k for a new dmw..... i will bring this to his attention now and hope i can get my money back......

 

Yikes that's pretty jacked. Like you I've heard good things about his work but this alone spooks me. When you get into tuning, stuff can easily go south and when a warranty is on the line, to me, it's just not worth it.

I would think he should give your money back AND replace what he broke (if he indeed broke it). That's just good business.

 

WOW, this is messed up . . . on several levels . . . .

I do hope Jan does right by you.

 

**** man, i feel bad for you!

 

No surprise to me.
Jan destroyed my ECU a few years ago. He gave me a replacement ECU, however I had to pay some big coin to the dealer to program that empty ECU. He never responded to my requests to refund the purchase price of the tuner, the dyno and pay for the dealer work.
What a waste. I spent $ on Jan's tuning device, $ on Jan's dyno tune, $ to trailer my car and $ to the dealer to end up with a stock car.
Anyone want my old tuner cheap?

My ALTA stuff works perfectly.

 

quick update- the tech got the tabs unbent from touching each other, and now the car is alive again like it was before the tune, he still needs a couple days before he will get to sodder the broken ones that he was not able to bend back into place but the majority are ok and not touching so im somewhat happier that at least it looks like i wont need a new dme, i got ahold of jan and he said he will retune it carefully since he uploaded the stock map when i was at his place the other day , and also refund some money back for the trouble. hope this all comes through well, im a bit nervous about sending it there now but i dont think he will screw it up twice, at least i hope.

 

So now he is prepared to tune it carefully this time - as opposed before - that was a non careful tune . . . I sure hope that is your paraphrasing and not his words . . . .

Also, did he really only refund some money for all your time and trouble - the right thing to do would have been for him to do it gratis and refund all of your money for the huge headache and screw up on his part - didn't you have to use up a full day driving out to his shop . . . .

. . . further evidence that accountability and professionalism is a thing of the past . . . .

 

maybe he drunk that bottle of Champaign he’s holding, then tuned your car.
at least it turned out well and should haul *** when you get it back.

 

yeas i did paraphrase it , like i want him to do it this time . he is not admitting to what happened to it, and has not said how much he will refund atm. im not trying to scare him by throwing a large amount off my complete expense especially after reading the other post of a member that got scrwed, so i figured better to get at least some than nothing at all

 

 

the tech fixed my ecu and i sent it to jan for the retune, car feels alot!! better now, and my torque app is showing 16to 20 psi now. my question to you guys is it feel as if the boost drops or the car gets less hp on the top end mid range is most powerfull, and also doesnt the tune ususally add a few rpm past the redline? or is jans still at 6500 redline after the tune?

 

Midrange power is typically more usable unless the car is tracked. This is the power that lets you pass without a downshift and makes it easier to drive daily.

Raising the RPM limit opens up the question "What will be the first thing to break?" and without someone specifically asking I don't think he would want to make you the experiment on how bullet proof the engine is. Cars with non-stock internals would be better suited for experimenting.

With enough time and a dyno, there probably is more power to be had. But remember, there is a difference between tuning for max power and making the engine have a good long service life.

Just guessing, but your tune has added power lower and longer, changed the power curve to a more usable place in the RPM band, all while staying in a safe range for stock internals. Having more power lower, may make the top feel like it drops off, but a different CAM may be the answer if you want to keep the car at high RPMs will max power.

Remember there is a difference between making max power and tuning an engine to last.

I'm glad you got the car back on the road.

 

MY understanding of the R56 engines is that they don't make much power up near the rev limit, so there is no reason to raise it. The R53's however have a different power curve and with the right mods still make more power with higher rpm.

 

thanks for the inputs guys, im feeeling alot better now being able to drive my mini around town. i just need to get rid off these runflats now