im up in the air about whether i really want to do a cam or if i should save the around $700 (350 for part plus im guessing around 350 for install) and use it on something else. currently i just have a cai, 15% pulley and magnaflow exhaust, still need tune and bigger injectors. I had a header too but without a cat it was too loud. ill probably be getting another header with a cat so its not quite as loud but i cant decide whether i should just do the header, injectors and tune (which should be a decent improvement) or cough up the $700 and do the cam too. Any opinions?

 

Just my oppinion but, I like to do all the bolt on stuff first before moving inside the engine.
I would get a good header, and add the JCW (380cc) injectors, see where your power/drivability is and make a decision on what cam to run from there.

 

I like the idea of bolt on first but I only want to get buy injectors once so I'm going to get 450s which requires a tune and I also don't want to pay for a tune twice which would require me to get everything at once.

How much power do you think will be gained with just the header Injectors and tune over what I already have?

Im kinda iffy in going into the motor since i plan to keep the car for quite some time and I've already got 92k on it. But I don't want to leave myself asking for more if the cam makes that much of a difference. Im kinda thinking about waiting to do the cam till I need a head work done aka an opportunity to get a bvh and do the cam with that.

 

If I am reading your thinking correctly you understand the real limiting factor is the head work so even if you get the cam you will not get to where you want to be.
I agree with Dicks Garage and would just do the injectors and tune.
If that is not enough and you want to keep with this car, then do the cam, head and another tune. Not the least expensive with two tunes but a very reasonable way to go.

 

Tune should be your last move,... normally as a rule of thumb

 

With cam swaps in the stock head you really arent getting that much power for the total cost. Some of the cams can cost $400+ and then another $400 to have a shop install but depending on the cam grind you could only see gains of anywhere from 1~20 HP.
Most of this is because the stock head was never designed to be used in High Performance/Forced Induction applications. The JCW head was slightly reworked at the factory, but still dosent flow enough air to see the benefits from most of the cam's on the market.
If you go the easy route now, improving the exhaust flow with a good header (RMW has the best collector design, and uses a good quality cat), you might still only see 5~10 more HP but, down the road it is one less part needed to get the best out of a head/cam combo.
If all the pre/post head restrictions are delt with, and you do some research and select the proper head/cam that suits your driving style/RPM range, after a good tune you could see gains of 30+HP. There are so manny options out there though when it comes to selecting the right parts, that you really need to research and know your options before you decide to step up to this level.

 

thulchatt...Im not looking at doing a head install any time soon. Im simply saying when the stock one breaks, why not fix it with a bigger better one.

Dicks Garage...i see where you are coming from with the cost to power factor of the upgraded cam. from my understanding the biggest improvement with a cam, im looking at the RMW one and have spoken to jan (yes i realize he'd like to sell it also), Is that it improves low end tq quite a bit.

 

Only cam for low end would be Nitrostick/Crower NS1 or Schrick Billet.

Contact Waylen.
http://www.waymotorworks.com/crower-...0-r52-r53.html

 

That's an option but not the only one. Theres also the Schrick, CatCams has a good tourque cam out of the UK, as does Kent, RMW/Newmann also has a really good TQ produsing street cam.

 

LAXPIMP6903,

For the price and performance NS1 takes the race.. there is no other. Don't buy other mystery cams and if price isn't a concern get the billet Schrick.

Way has good ol' American made Crower/Nitrostick cams.. and he is a vendor on this forum.. support the guys who cares about the community here, and I'm not telling you to buy an inferior cams either, the NS1 or Schrick cam is what you want.

 

They aren't American made they are American REGROUND....Whats the specs on these NS cams? DUR@0.050? ADV. DUR? Lobe Separation? Intake Centerline? Valve Lift?

 

NS1 Cam

Specification:
Intake.....Lift .375 Duration @ Exhaust 272
Exhaust..Lift .406 Duration @ Intake 264
Lobe separation 114

 

llabmik2 what's the rmw cam spec that Jan is going to sell him sinceyou want to talk spec??

 

I am wondering which "other mystery cams" we should not buy. Do I have to figure out all other cams you didn't mention are "other mystery cams"? (all cams except Crower/Nitrostick and Schrick).

 

I dont know what cam hes going to sell him.....Its also not my place to post data about his stuff. I was just wondering if there was a cam card for those are not. Do all NS cams have cam cards? I found the specs up to a NS2 so what about the NS3?

Thats just a normal cam. Nothing special about it. Normal adv. duration and lift, and lobe separation. 10.3mm of lift on the big side...9.5mm on the small size..........I mean its not hard to make power with ANY cam, the stock one is 244 dur 8.0mm lift on the cold side, and 255 dur 8.5mm on the hotside.

Its reground on a stock core, there is a reason its cheaper in price.

Like I've said before the big power making cams usually wont have a cam card....that way if anybody wants to copy it they at least have to put it on the doctor.

Thats adv. duration what about duration @.050? I can say a cam has 288 degrees of duration, but if it only has 201 degrees at 0.050 im going to find those duration numbers hard to believe.

 

Typical reply. Once you buy 1 cam you can make lots of copys if you want.. nothing can stop that. So the "I don't know the specs", "its not my place to say specs" and "no1 gives specs on big power cams" is total BS.

Anyone can buy any cam take it somewhere locally to be degreed/doctored then release all specs.. nothing secretive. But laxpimp is buying a street cam that's not big.

So anyways laxpimp call him back up for specs on that street cam.

 

IMO, wheather you do the cam or not, which one you use, is all going to fall on you.

But be forwarned, after everything I went through and all the subsequent research that I did, cams can be the least consistant of all of the Mods, they tend to be very "engine specific", by that I mean you can take one that will give you problems out of one engine and put it into another exactly configured engine and it will work fine. It tends to have more to do with the engine than the cam.

When they work, they're great, when they don't they're a real PITA, just be prepaired for this, esp. if you're not doing the work. And don't give up your stock one for a core (should only be $50 to $75 core) it's worth keeping it just in case.

 

You know i thought i would just hang back and just watch these forums to get an idea on how they are...but i just cannot sit back anymore. Here is a bit of parity to balance out this Crower love fest...

back in November 2008 i got a RMW street cam/street header and tune w/JCW 380's...this was done with 90k on the clock

fast forward 3+ yrs later...im at almost 160k on the clock and never once had a problem and she pulls just as hard and is still as quick as she was the day she came off the dyno (215.7whp 194.9wtq)

i do believe that is what we call "Reliable"

in fact a year and a half ago i added the RMW crank damper and oil trap as well and almost 25k miles later still running like a top

I do believe the old adage fits here in the MINI tuning world as well as any tuning world..."you get what you pay for"...is RMW the cheapest?No...however my mini is still running like a scalded cat where as my friends who opted for the cheaper route have all broken down at some point

just some 1st post food for thought

 

^Nobody listen to this guy. HI Jan nice alias. He's drinking the koolaid and selling snake oil.

 

sorry bub im not jan...i dont live in southern cali anymore as i was stationed back on the Right coast in january 09

 

Have you ever seen Jan post something that long with that many sentances? Try again...

Your personal vengeance against Jan is really becoming comical and making you look like an absolute fool

 

Thank you Thumper...greatly appreciated! For me what it came down to at the time i got alot of my mods done was just looking at what was out there and making a judgment call, i slowly built up the engine through bolt ons and made sure everything played well with the other parts before i turned to the internals. Before the mini i had a 95 EG Civic hatch which was my cruicble in modding, i learned 2 lessons...never take the short path and never skimp on parts...if something costs more but is better made ill take that route...less chances for heartache down the road (which is why i ended up with the D15B motor because i blew up the original engine)

i actually waited until the warranty was up before i did a single mod, when it hit 50,001 miles....it was game on from there

 

Regardless you sound like a walking talking RMW puppet. Stop promoting a guy/parts who is banned from these forums.

Nothing is personal, his products perform just like anything the paying vendors on this site offer and sometimes even less.

 

Well if you are going to put it on the cam doctor that makes you the dishonest one....Call up BR, AWD, or STM and ask them the specs on the BR272, AWD272, or STM650's These are big company's that have all went 9's or faster. BR will hang up on you, AWD will laugh at you, and STM being the nicest out of all of them will tell you when hell freezes over.

Hell if you call Forced Performance and ask them what the compressor maps are on the turbo chargers they sell, guess what you are going to get? Laughed at again.....I dont know why you think that everybody needs to post every single little tidbit of information about a product. They put the R&D into it, they paid the money. Why do they just want it copied and sold by somebody else. If its going to be copied they are going to have to put a little work into it at least. Make sure they are really dishonest.




Buschur Racing
1.440.839.1900

AWD Motorsports
954.919.9660

Street Tuned Motorsports (STM) These guys are in upper new york right in your neighborhood.
(585) 226 8226

 

Y is Jan banned??