I'm going to assume that my electrical connections are sound, and re-run some nicer tubing. Maybe there's a kink somewhere...

They sent along some 3/16" tubing, but I'm going to use 5/32" fuel line. Any problem with using slightly smaller with a thicker wall? Better for the heat in there...

 

Shouldnt be a problem but you also shouldnt have to do that.

 

Shoudn't have to, or shouldn't do that?

I'll defer to you in these matters. If the plumbing is correct (and it is), I can just leave well enough alone. I just didn't know if the tubing was an issue. I guess they send along silicone tubing (it's pretty soft stuff).

 

Yeah i used it for my boost gauge and boost controllers on cars before hand, just make sure its not resting against and super hot surfaces.

 

Here is a video (not mine) of the Forge RCV/BOV on an R56, and it sounds exactly like mine. Guess I'm not the only one with that weird sound.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GoPDh_Vp2jg

I'm going to run new line from the MAP tap to the horizontal nipple on the solenoid, but leave the silicone hoses that are attached to the BPV. If for no other reason than to not kill my hands again. Nearly broke my thumb and actually slit my wrist putting that damned thing in.

 

sounds like stall but it seems to be a stuttered vent.

 

Yep, that's what it sounds like. NOW, that being said, since you were kind enough to fix my other issue, I'm going to patch her back up here and take her out for a drive in about an hour.

We shall see if the vacuum issue had something to do with the sound, etc. If it's still not resolved... I guess new lines, and after that... God knows...

 

That didn't sound healthy in the video. I'd say you're on the right track, so keep at it. I suppose you can always try to reseat the spring and see if that does anything. I'm not sure if I'd want to drive like that long term though. Hopefully you'll get your issue resolved.

 

After that send it to me... itll get good use! lol

 

It's interesting that another person (the person in that video) seems to have the same sounding issue. I guess that means I'm not completely alone!

 

Look at this smart guy. If I wasn't before, now I'm really rooting for you to resolve this issue

Sorry I couldn't be more help then I was, but in any event good luck

 

I'll take a video of the drive here in a bit to see if I can get you guys a good audio example.

Cross fingers it will just magically be better now.

 

I never got to take that drive tonight because... you guessed it.... my old vacuum problem came back.

So, back over to that thread before I beat my head against the wall too hard and can't type any longer...

 

Well, this problem seems solved, as well.

My vac issues have been solved with the exception of the boost gauge showing correct pressure. That's still a toss up...

Forge has re-designed the BPV/BOV kit for the R60 to tap off of a vac source on the block. Unlike the R56 kit, it does not appear that it comes with a boost tap, though the rest of the kit is nearly identical (they throw in a t-tap).

After plugging into that vac source, I drove for an hour today and didn't experience anything other than the normal 'whoosh' - no more flutter dump.

I'm quite sure that what I was hearing was compressor stall (not surge) since the other vac source (boost tap) wasn't getting any vacuum to the BPV, and hence, not moving the piston back in time to re-circulate the pressure. Hence, the flutter dump.

Thanks for the help, guys. Really appreciate it, as always.

 

Glad to hear it! Enjoy your new valve

 

Sorry I am too lazy to read the whole thread since there were way too many words. But where did you buy your kit from anyways? I mean, if they have a different kit for R60, why would they sell you an R56 kit anyways?

 

Wow, less than 2 full pages? And I thought I was lazy...

Regardless of the reseller, the R60 kits were originally the R56 kits. The parts are all the same, and the implementation was the same.

Only a few days ago, the 'new' R60 kits started shipping from the UK (even Forge US has one unit). The updates that I know of are:

1) Fixing the connector (we've all shaved the extra plastic off).
2) Tapping into another vac source / not using a boost tap.

So, the R56 kit is fine, as well. It just takes a bit more patience to set up correctly. In my case, I had an issue with vacuum pressure at the boost tap (that's in another, much longer thread).

The new R60 kits should be for sale in the next few weeks, as far as I know. Regardless, it's pretty much patched up at this point. I'll just need to find a good boost tap to use since I've had issues getting vac. pressure using a tap under the MAP sensor. Again, long thread on that one.

 

Sorry for being lazy, but the terms used in this thread are too technical for me. But nonetheless, thank you so much for replying to my post!

So in conclusion, the new R56 kits coming out of UK should be improved and trouble free, right? I think I heard before that some people were experiencing problems like the plug in one of their wire wouldn't plug into the car all the way or something. Is that the connector thing you were talking about? Sorry for being stupid, but for those two improvements you talked about above, do they apply to the R56 kit as well or just R60 specific? Please advise. Thanks!

 

Had Forge "BoV" installed at Dragon and had same issue... I went back to OEM with Alta spring.

 

Not a problem!

I can't speak for the kits, as I'm not with Forge. However, I've been fairly involved in getting info from Forge and a few resellers, and have shared what I know here.

The connectors may have been different in other versions, as well. I know they required modification on the R60. The change in routing from the tap to a vac. line is specific to the R60 only, as far as I know.

 

That's not good at all... Did you find out what about the BOV was causing it? Was it atmospheric or recirculating?

 

It's okay! Thanks for your reply though!

 

Here's what it sounds like now - basically the same as stock. No flutter.

 

stuck my head under a 2011 to see what could be wrong but it seems to not be user error.

 

Stemming from our other thread, I'd say that some users using the MAP boost tap aren't getting the proper vacuum pressure to move the piston back and forth.

Hence, the flutter they hear is compressor stall (like the YouTube video I posted a while back). Just a guess, though.