Yup.

 

I checked them the other day, just didn't have the time to get on and post my findings (the holidays + law school final exams = no time for anything other than the two).

The harnesses for the MAP and T-MAP seem to be okay. The sheath/tubing around the MAP sensor seemed kinked and torn, but the wires inside looked fine.

After careful inspection of my VGS line, the rubber tube on the nipple on the intake manifold appears kinked. I think a 90* elbow to straighten things out would be appropriate ... I had one sitting around in my garage from an old boost gauge somewhere ...

 

Any updates to this ?

 

Nope. I've been too busy as of late (finals stretched into the 20th of this month, and I had to get holiday shopping done in three days' time; work is piling up, so I have to get back to my job as well ...).

I can't count how many times the SES light has gone on/off since it got colder. After consulting with my cousin who's owned an '03 MCS (subsequently sold; he's now into an '11 MCS), he suggested I purchase a header, or eliminate the precat.

I have noticed that the light won't turn on if I stay off boost ... However, give it a bootful around 3K RPM in any gear and it will.

Someone put a good size dent on my hood while I was at IKEA the other day ... If anything, that's become more irritating than my problems with overboost codes.

 

I had this issue for the LONGEST TIME. I think I may have figured out what the issue is, on your MAP sensors, check both MAP sensors and make sure you got the right part numbers for each. When I was having the issue, it turns out the MAP sensor next to the valve cover was the same as the MAP sensor on the intake manifold. Whenever I hit boost the car would throw the light and started acting really odd. So that maybe the problem there. Make sure the part number for the MAP sensor on the cylinder head/valve cover area is: 12140872648 AND the part number for the MAP sensor on the intake manifold is: 12140872679. Even though they look identical, they have different pressure readings. Let me know how it goes

 

^^ This, see it all the time at the dealer, make sure they are the right parts, the one on the intake manifold only measures pressure, the one by the thermostat measures temp and pressure. There pressure measurement ranges are different, one does like 0-3 bar, the other is like 0-1.5 bar without temp. Also why did you replace them to begin with? Whenever you replace anything thar corresponds with fuel or ignition, especially a sensor the dme adaptations need to be reset! Or it will start acting up with a totally new signal causing ses and drivability issues.

 

Personally, i still have this code, and my map sensors are the correct part numbers.

Also, i am running a catless header, so there isnt a clog in the cat system.

Possible one of the cam lobes went flat or a rocker arm went out of spec ?

 

"Possible one of the cam lobes went flat or a rocker arm went out of spec ? "
It would make some noise.............
It could be the plastic intake under the BPV = leak????

 

My plastic intake was replaced less then a year ago, along with the S/C gasket.

My motor is still decently quiet.

 

KC you're making this dificult................... There has to be a leak somewhere.
Do you have anything you can measure the EGT? If so, I'll get some from my car & compair.

 

LOL Sorry. It is rare that have to resort to actually asking online now-a-days, but i am certainly stumped on this one...so here i am.

Only way i could would be stationary and w/ a IR gun. I think it would be accurate enough to see if there is a difference.

Think that would work ?

 

Anything is worth a try!

What firmware version, how old is the O2 sensor & kinds of mods have you done?

AND Happy New Year!

 

Well i feel very very foolish for being so stubborn on the situation. Replaced the MAP sensor located on the front of the Intake Manifold...bam, my MINI is back. Code is gone, and DSC can be turned on/off at will now.

The sensor was only 25k miles, so i am very curious as to why failed prematurely. Excessive blow-by potentially soaking the the sensor in oil ? IDK. (The car doesnt consume any oil to speak of though, so thats an unlikely theory.)

Either way, i am happy to say this is the end of the saga for me, and it was all solved with a OEM $60 sensor.

 

Don't know what to tell you, except you had the bad luck of the draw. All man-made mechanical parts are bound to fail at some point.

But at least you fixed it. Happy motoring.

 

Well, I've tried basically everything.

- Replaced both MAP sensors
- Checked the throttle body wiring
- Degreased intake tract
- Replaced all intake gaskets
- Replaced intercooler boots
- Readjusted the bypass valve stop
- Readjusted the bypass valve butterfly
- Clamped all vacuum fitings
- Cleaned both MAP sensors with CRC MAP/MAF cleaner
- Cleaned and checked all wires and connections
- Replaced headers with OBX 4-2-1 unit

And still ... P0108 ... I know I'm hitting 1.1 BAR (~16 PSI) on my boost gauge, too ... I guess it really is just the boost levels I'm seeing with a full 2.5" exhaust, intake, and a 17% reduction pulley. At this point I've spent around $500 or so on that god damn code, and I'm throwing in the towel.

My girlfriend calls the service engine soon indicator the "Fun Light" because it turns on whenever I give it a bootful ... I just have a natural aversion to any warning lights on any of my instruments.

 

i think i had P0108... doesnt it mean "unmetered air after supercharger" ? or does it mean too much boost? i forget...

i throw this code every once in a while too. asked mini about it. went through almost ALL the stuff you did: boots, MAp sensors, bla bla bla. nothing fixed it so far, but it now only shows up randomly...

ive also heard, that you can get a crack in the throttle body to SC tube. The BPV connections were supposed to be crappy before like, '05 or something, a "known" issue with mini. check that. also, check the 1 or 2 hoses that connect TO the TB/SC tube: others have seen where those get old, and just come sorta loose, causing intermittent codes like you are seeing (and possibly me)

 

Yep, I've checked the S/C inlet tube and all other vacuum lines. I even put some extra silicone on the vacuum source taps in the inlet tube (for the brake booster and the MAP sensor). The inlet tube looked okay to me, but I wasn't inspecting it for cracks. I did all this while I had the car down to replace a clutch and flywheel.

P0108 is code for "Manifold Absolute Pressure High Input", or "OMG WTF IS ALL THIS BOOST DOING INSIDE OF ME."

 

My car DEF did that code for a while, but now actually, it's all but gone away! So, that means one or 2 things: my BPV is going, and or the car has remapped itself and it's sensors to make it Not boost "too" much.

At least, these are my theories...

I used to go well over 16 psi for a while, basically whenever I wanted. Now, it'll hold around 15-16 I guess, unless I per charge it from a lower gear. We have similar mods, and I want your headers

 

It's been doing this for almost a year now, either my ECU was programmed on a short bus (a prototype of a new model: the MINI Busman?), or it's something else.

The car pulls like a bat out of hell, though. I wasted some guy in a W203 C350 at a light the other night, and those post 5.5-6.1 second times to 60 MPH. Really, the Fun Light was the only thing that spoiled the moment. No more getting pushed around by V6 Camrys! The car consistently goes to 16 PSI, though. Isn't that the threshold where the ECU starts to freak out?

By the way, if you're going to go OBX, for headers, order the stainless steel ones. I was sent two mild steel/ceramic headers by Sparktec Motorsports and the construction was absolutely horrible. The exhaust runners stuck out into the flow path on the head flange almost a quarter of the way! That being said, most OBX products require a bit of work. I had to rebuild my brand-new OBX torsen diff, but it's the single best thing I ever did to the car.

 

interesting on the programming thing. see if the dealer will let you do a full reset with their computers, it may help in the long run.

i otherwise, did about all what you did: both map sensors, IC boots, leak test, had the tech check the BPV (he said it was still springy) ect ect. i def get the code when its cold too, i know that "helps" it happen.

ive basically learned to drive the car in such a way that the light doesnt show up. ill floor it now in a higher gear and only hit around 15.5 psi. again, ive heard the car will adapt itself, im suspecting maybe my car isnt opening the TB all the way... keeping the boost down.

fortunately for me, i got most of that work done under warranty, so it really didnt cost much.

how many miles on your car?... im wondering WHY my car doesnt do this anymore... i almost miss it! kinda makes me think theres less power for some reason (again, thinking that BPV has to be going by now). im just at 80k.

 

I'm currently at 84k miles. Give or take.

 

wow. we have mini twins
its really funny, bc some ********** sat on My hood too! i also have dents now that i have to look at, every day :(

i was quoted $300 to get it fixed :0

how are those OBX headers? hard to install? any issues with quality? you use a stock cat, or a high flow? your original cat? clogged? any codes after the install? (heard of P0708 codes: unmetered air after SC, or something about too little pressure after the head)

 

Just a couple of thoughts:
Check the T-MAP connector - the second sensor in the front of the engine - I had the rubber hood gasket rub through the wires & it caused a short - this caused 2 codes 0101 & 0108 - you will need to remove the heat shrink, mine looked good, the harness under it wasn't

From new I believe the plastic tupe - under the BPV - was cracked this caused 0108. It took me forever to find, what appeared to be, a crack in the seam. It was 1 of those days - "IT WAS GOING TO BE FIXED" days. The dealer said it needed new injectors.... NOT.

The last thing to check is the ECU - just pull it out - clean the connectors & look for any oxidation.

 

$300 is cheap. I might do it once I can save up some cash to pay for it ...

The stainless OBX headers were relatively easy to install. My main issue with the process was that BMW thought it was fine to use M8x1.00/10mm flange-head bolts to secure the factory headers to the head. I rounded off one of the bolts badly enough that I had to replace it once I got it off with a vise grip and plenty of patience. I learned my lesson and used a six-point socket and a universal and/or wobble extension, along with liberal applications of freezing penetrating oil. Those bolts are on there tight.

As for quality, it's OBX. If you want a high-quality piece that you can bolt-on and go, spend the extra money on the Supersprint header it was copied from. Otherwise, be prepared to break out the die grinder and metal deburring bit (and some 120, 200, 400 and 600 grit sanding cones to smooth out some of the rough metal after deburring) and clear out some of the obstructions in the primaries. Otherwise, it's a pretty nice piece.

I used the OE cat. I cut off the inlet and outlet pipes to the cat and replaced it with the supplied OBX ball/socket flange adapter and a 4" length of 2.5" OD aluminized steel exhaust piping to make all the piping in the system 2.5" OD from the collector on the headers all the way to the exhaust tips. I cut off approximately 1/2 of the pre-precat O2 sensor bung to weld onto the post-cat pipe so I could install the post-cat O2 sensor. Cat looked okay to me - no blocked passages or anything; I ran some compressed air through it to remove any debris from welding and metal deburring (I use a MIG/flux-core welder and it's pretty messy I really need to buy another tank of argon ...).

The only code I've gotten is P0108, per my buddy's bluetooth-enabled code reader. Oh, another problem I've encountered is that I have to readjust the hangers on my exhaust. It's sagging slightly, but it's secure. Methinks I need to weld another hanger on.

 

I have a UniChip tuner on the car with the vehicle-specific harness. I've heard horror stories of the harness letting water seep into the ECU pins, so I've been checking the ECU every oil change. Looks okay for now ...

Plastic tube looked okay, but again, I wasn't inspecting it for cracks. I did replace the S/C to intake tube gasket while I was in there, but that's it.

I checked the TMAP harness as best I could without removing the heat-shrink tubing, and didn't find any shorted wires, but that's the last thing I wanted to do ... Maybe I'll just cut it out and check ... If for nothing but some closure.