Just got word that our '06 MCSC needs the clutch replaced. I've been searching and reading feverishly about this massive operation our little dear is about to go through. Of course, a true MINIthusiast ponders what parts could be replaced, while the car is dismantled basically from the firewall forward, improving the car and cutting down on labor cost at the same time.

My usual study-long research time is abbreviated a tad since I'm trying to get it all in before getting back to the service writer about it.

So far the pertinent parts up for replacement seem to be:
New MINI Cooper S Limited Slip Differential, LSD - ($1199)
Lightweight Flywheel
Performance clutch disk
Pressure plate
Release bearing
Performance pulley
Air Intake

Give me a boost...what else is nearby that might make sense to upgrade while she's so opened up for a clutch kit?

 

What I ended up telling them/deciding is:
1) The clutch is asymptomatic other than a low tone that happens on clutch engagement first thing on cooler mornings.
2) After reading through several blow-by-blow write-ups online, unless there's a very obvious problem it's not easy to diagnose the exact issue causing a behavior with the clutch, especially one like we're having. So the call to completely replace it, seems...ambitious.

So I'm going to get the car back, now that it's had an O2 sensor replaced, brake fluid changed, and a state inspection, and study all about clutch installs + upgrades while I enjoy the remaining life of this current clutch.

 

Sounds like you made the right choice, save your money for now, or just get some fun mods till the clutch goes.

 

Mine at 75k is getting very close to replacement, just hanging in, will slip with WOT in 1st gear, but will hold being gentle at launch.

 

If you decide to get an LSD, get the OS Giken. It's about $600 more, but worth every penny.

 

Good choice on not replacing the clutch. The dealer replacement mine, under warranty, when I said there was a slight noise and I wish I would not have had it changed, even for free.

 

When you eventually get the clutch replaced, stick with OEM.
Don't believe any of the stories about aftermarket clutches being better - OEM is best...especially if you spend any time in traffic.
You'll probably have to go after-market if you make big power...else, stick to OEM.