I installed CM FX200 clutch with a CM lightwheel flywheel last December and couple weeks ago I been having a very strange issue.

When I start her up in neutral and try to shift into gear it will not shift into gear. If I press the shifter up into the gears forcefully, car will being to creep forward. So the clutch is dragging even with the clutch pedal depressed completely.

Here's the strange part. When I start the car in gear with the clutch all the way pressed, it will lurch when I'm cranking and then after a couple seconds it'll be fine. I will be able to shift with the clutch pressed normally. Granted, the shifts feels more notchy and I'm sure I'm wearing out my synchros but I'm able to shift.

Once I shut off the car and try to start again, it won't shift if I start in neutral.

I've only put around 9k miles on the new clutch and wondering if anyone had issues with CM clutches failing prematurely or if anyone has run into something like this. I almost feel like something is jammed between the pressure plate/flywheel and the clutch.

Also does CM warranty their parts for more than 90 days? This is pretty ridiculous. I've driven my stock dual mass and clutch set up for 140k miles before the new set up and it was the throwout bearing that failed, not the clutch

Any insight would be appreciated, thanks.

 

Yup seen it before, get an OS Giken they are a lot more reliable.

 

Any idea what it is specifically? I'm gonna have to tear it down either way but would like to know for curiosity's sake.

I'd love an OS Giken clutch...only $1000 isn't something I can afford at the moment lol

 

Have you checked to see if the slave cylinder is leaking?

 

as far as i know I was the final straw that broke the camels back in Way's eyes for clutchmasters. He installed their clutch/flywheel combo for me, and in almost no time I was having the same, but more severe symptoms as you are having. The fault was a broken clutch return spring, so it wouldn't ever fully disengage. Clutchmasters even tried to say it was a result of an overly-aggressive downshift, sending me above the clutch's RPM limit... when this happened in gear, up-shifting at 2100 rpm at 10% throttle.
The spring in mine came out and would ruble along between the clutch and flywheel and from my understanding damaged the flywheel beyond resurfacing as well, and way had to fight clutch-masters for months on end to warranty the clutch at which point we decided just to put a stock-equivalent back in.

 

My 2004 MCS has had the CM FX200 w/ aluminum flywheel for about a year and maybe 14k. I'm having strange issues too. The engagement point for the clutch seems to move around; sometimes low, sometimes high. The problem I can't ignore though is that it's starting to slip like it's worn out...at 14k. I started to blame my 20 yr. old daughter for using the clutch to hold the car at stop signs on an incline, but she said "Dad, I know better than that..." I have a friend that had a CM clutch and flywheel in a BMW e-30 M3. The clutch grenaded and took the housing and other expensive hardware with it. No more CM for me...

 

I decided against a CM and went with an ACT instead. My ACT has had the problem you all mention since day one. ACT sent the wrong length bolts - causes the same problem. I can no longer due much on my MCS and can't afford a garage job. Fizzgig has not left the garage much in 2 years.

Kevin

 

ive ran my fx400 and flywheel for 2 years and 0ver 20k no problems. Gonna put the car back together so we will see if i run into this

 

I refuse to sell anything but the FX400 which has been flawless. I have had people that had issues with the 200 and 300. I ran the FX400 in my TVS powered Mini that was about 300ft lbs of torque and 360whp with zero issues. It's definitely more bite than stock so you have to be ready to go and not sit there an slip it like a stock clutch. If you aren't capable of driving like this then it's better to put a stock one back in.

 

Hmm...sounds like that could be my issue. I do feel a click once awhile when pressing the clutch and then its ok.

I checked the slave, and didn't show any signs of leaking. It could be leaking internally I suppose but the severity of the problem changes. Sometimes I'm able to change into gears, albeit a little tough, and sometimes it simply will not go into gear. Not to mention the pedal feel changes also to super soft, to normal.

I'll be starting by bleeding and replacing the slave and then the master.

 

So the stock replacement, Vealo, and fx400 work and last.

Is there any upgraded clutch that is easily daily drivable and not $1800?

im sure OS giken is an awesome clutch but i would just like to replace the clutch on my DD that has the ability to support some more power in the future and can handle traffic and large hills, with out rattling?

How is the ACT with the correct length bolts, anyone?

-Jonathan

 

In hindsight I'd stick with the OEM clutch unless you're pushing more power than the JCW kit.

I mainly wanted the lighter flywheel for better throttle response, but the tradeoff isn't worth it in my opinion. I'll probably be putting in an valeo single mass flywheel kit soon.

 

Bled the system yesterday but that didn't seem to do much. Noticed that the slave cylinder piston only travels approximately 1/2". I think I read somewhere the travel should be about 1". Can anyone verify what the slave cylinder piston travel should be? This is with the slave cylinder mounted on the transmission.

I'll be installing a new slave and master cylinders sometime this week to rule out any hydraulic issues.