Drivetrain (Cooper S) MINI Cooper S (R56) intakes, exhausts, pulleys, headers, throttle bodies, and any other modifications to the Cooper S drivetrain.

Drivetrain WHO makes Aftermarket Pistons and Rods????????

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Old May 22, 2011 | 06:39 PM
  #51  
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Originally Posted by Mike@Tech Division
We would prefer to build the bottom end our selves. For us this is the best way to ensure the parts are set up and used correctly. However we will sell the parts individually for those that wish to do the work them selves.

We are in the process of acquiring some bare blocks for a block exchange program. With this a customer can order a bottom end and have it built prior to tear down. Down time on a car can be reduced from 2 months to a week or less. A core charge would be added to the build cost, but will be returned with the exchange of a suitable block.

The Darton sleeves basically give an aluminum block the strength of a cast iron one. Both the iron cylinder liner and the aluminum carrier in the block are removed and replaced with solid iron sleeve. The outer edge of the sleeve extends across the water jacket to the rest of the block creating a semi closed deck. This greatly increasing the pressure the block can handle.

Based off other manufactures engines with similar build designs like the N14. sleeves are recommended for boosted engines planned to build more then 300 whp or pushing an average PSI of 25 +. This may not be the true for the N14, but we build on the side of caution. Sleeved aluminum engines have been testes to handle close to 50 PSI. This is far more pressure then any street car would see, but it gives an idea how stout the engines are after sleeving.

Sorry for the pic of a Honda block, but this is pretty much what an N14 would look like sleeved.



OK. That covers the bottom end. What do I do with the head? Right now I have an issue. Occas smoke when started. We looked down the cylinders with a borescope on friday and oil is leaking from a couple of the valves/guides on cyl 3. At this point I'm not using any significant amount of oil. Do you offer upgrades? Just for reference I'm using the Alta billet 56 turbo. Boost peaks around 27 at 3000prm and tapers to 22ish at redline--7000.

Thanks again-Ray
 
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Old May 23, 2011 | 03:03 PM
  #52  
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Originally Posted by Raymazing
How much for the pistons and rods mike?
Pistons are $750 w/o a skirt coating.

Pistons with a skirt coating start at $850 depending on type of coating used.

Rods are $1300

Keep in mind the pistons and rods are designed to run together. They physically will not work with a factory rod or piston. This was done to ensure maximum strength and reliability.
 
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Old Jun 2, 2011 | 06:12 PM
  #53  
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Anyone have any info on a master engine gasket kit?
 
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Old Jun 2, 2011 | 08:56 PM
  #54  
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Originally Posted by Raymazing
Anyone have any info on a master engine gasket kit?
I haven't priced out a full R56 build, but R53's run about 300-350 ish from BMW.

Victor Reinz should have a kit too that's pretty much OE equivalent.
 
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Old Jun 3, 2011 | 05:01 AM
  #55  
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Pretty amazing what can be done with a four cylinder engine. I can't wait to see the test results and final product. This is a very exciting time!
 
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Old Jun 3, 2011 | 08:56 AM
  #56  
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@Mike-Thanks brother! Ill check that out...

@countryboy- There is no reason that our motors cant make 1000hp if prepped correctly. SOMEONE just has to try (read: BREAK) things in order to get there. No one said a 1.6L honda could hit 9's and they did it, 8's and they did it... We are just pushing the envelope on a different platform.
 
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Old Jun 3, 2011 | 09:11 AM
  #57  
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Or just do this!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=my_J7lmd_-4

Dave
 
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Old Jun 3, 2011 | 09:13 AM
  #58  
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if you think you are going to make 1000hp on the prince engine........well....
 
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Old Jun 3, 2011 | 09:16 AM
  #59  
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I would be all set with 275-300whp. I couldn't afford the maintenance of 1000whp
 
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Old Jun 3, 2011 | 09:22 AM
  #60  
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Originally Posted by DneprDave
That video cracks me up every time.

Reminds me of this.

 
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Old Jun 3, 2011 | 09:25 AM
  #61  
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Originally Posted by countryboyshane
I would be all set with 275-300whp. I couldn't afford the maintenance of 1000whp
Yeah that's more then enough for almost anything a MINI will do.
 
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Old Jun 3, 2011 | 10:03 AM
  #62  
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@RMW- Notice I said "if prepped correctly". No one thought 4 years after the B16A came out that it was capable of supporting the numbers that are regularly had with them. Keep it in perspective. If you keep doing your job then you might be around for some of those big milestones.

@countryboy- here you go then https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...t/18564/cat/49
 
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Old Jun 3, 2011 | 10:13 AM
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No one has dabbled into making metal thicker head gaskets to drop the comp ratio a bit!?


I was ablt to drop 2 points off my S2000 with the cometic head gasket before I ran forced induction.
 
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Old Jun 3, 2011 | 10:44 AM
  #64  
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Originally Posted by Raymazing
@RMW- Notice I said "if prepped correctly". No one thought 4 years after the B16A came out that it was capable of supporting the numbers that are regularly had with them. Keep it in perspective. If you keep doing your job then you might be around for some of those big milestones.
B16 didn't have to deal with a crappy cylinder head nor Direct Injection either. Have fun finding injectors/pumps etc capable of doing this and all of the other issues you are going to run into with the way the engine was designed. Better off waiting for the BMW motor coming with 2.0L

not to mention these cars were made for road tracks , going in a straight line is quite boring but what the heck do I know?

Originally Posted by Bigprfed22
No one has dabbled into making metal thicker head gaskets to drop the comp ratio a bit!?

Cometic could make a gasket in a week if you need one

I was ablt to drop 2 points off my S2000 with the cometic head gasket before I ran forced induction.
 
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Old Jun 3, 2011 | 11:41 AM
  #65  
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Originally Posted by Bigprfed22
No one has dabbled into making metal thicker head gaskets to drop the comp ratio a bit!?


I was ablt to drop 2 points off my S2000 with the cometic head gasket before I ran forced induction.
I haven't seen one.

I've always been a fan of higher comp small turbo vs. lower comp larger turbo, so lowering the C/R isn't my biggest priority. I understand the reasoning to lower the C/R, but dropping it may cause some new problems

There are some performance disadvantages, but that's not what I'm concerned about.

The main issue that I can see is the head gasket would change the position of the injector. This has a chance to cause an issue with fuel delivery into the cup on the piston.
 
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Old Jun 3, 2011 | 11:45 AM
  #66  
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@RMW- You really arent paying attention but whatever. I am aware of the hardware limitations as of RIGHT NOW. Development has to be done blah blah blah. Everything is going to be direct injection soon so someone is going to get this **** sorted. If its not you then so be it but others will push the boundaries... As far as straight line vs. road course I agree with you but not all people do. I personally didnt want more than 325 whp on a high boost setting. You were supposed to help me with that right?
 
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Old Jun 3, 2011 | 12:06 PM
  #67  
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Originally Posted by Raymazing
@RMW- You really arent paying attention but whatever. I am aware of the hardware limitations as of RIGHT NOW. Development has to be done blah blah blah. Everything is going to be direct injection soon so someone is going to get this **** sorted. If its not you then so be it but others will push the boundaries... As far as straight line vs. road course I agree with you but not all people do. I personally didnt want more than 325 whp on a high boost setting. You were supposed to help me with that right?
I'm paying attention, the problem is the Mini market is very very small, spending that kind of development money is foolish on a car that has an engine that will soon be gone and much better engines coming that will transfer over to BMWs. I know where I'll spend my R&D

you will be lucky to make 280whp with what you have and then keeping it together will the be the next issue. There's much to learn with these cars
 
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Old Jun 3, 2011 | 12:21 PM
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Originally Posted by Mike@Tech Division
I haven't seen one.

I've always been a fan of higher comp small turbo vs. lower comp larger turbo, so lowering the C/R isn't my biggest priority. I understand the reasoning to lower the C/R, but dropping it may cause some new problems
^^Agree with him
 
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Old Jun 3, 2011 | 08:43 PM
  #69  
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At some point what i'd like to do is do a rebuild but just to make the bottom end bullet proof to run daily driveable power...less than 300 at the wheels.

Strengthen the mains, sleeve the motor, better pistons, better rods, balance/clean up the crank, better head gasket, stronger head studs...etc etc.

Pretty much the service Mike has available...but i'll most certainly be waiting until I blow my stock motor before going that route...might as well get my moneys worth out of the stock motor and have some fun.
 
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Old Jun 3, 2011 | 10:24 PM
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Originally Posted by ColinMc
At some point what i'd like to do is do a rebuild but just to make the bottom end bullet proof to run daily driveable power...less than 300 at the wheels.

Strengthen the mains, sleeve the motor, better pistons, better rods, balance/clean up the crank, better head gasket, stronger head studs...etc etc.

Pretty much the service Mike has available...but i'll most certainly be waiting until I blow my stock motor before going that route...might as well get my moneys worth out of the stock motor and have some fun.
Your mind set reflects what we understand the market to be at at this point. The real need for builds probably won't come about for at least another 6 months to a year.

We plan to use that time testing our engine in my car. Although we will hit the track, the main goal will be to assess the stress of daily driving as that's what most people will be doing with the car still. I probably won't even run higher boost levels for the first few months and then will slowly turn it up.

The end goal is to push enough out to hit around the 300 WHP mark simply to test reliability. Realistically this is too much for a daily and I would end up dialing it back.
 
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Old Jun 4, 2011 | 10:02 AM
  #71  
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300 is PERFECT Mike
 
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Old Jun 4, 2011 | 11:34 AM
  #72  
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Originally Posted by Bigprfed22
No one has dabbled into making metal thicker head gaskets to drop the comp ratio a bit!?


I was ablt to drop 2 points off my S2000 with the cometic head gasket before I ran forced induction.
There are 2 standard multi layer metal cylinder head gaskets, offered by BMW Mini for the N14 engine, 1 is 0.9mm thick and the alternative is 1.3mm thick, the stock cylinder head gasket is very very good.

I've not had any issues with them yet!

If you really want an alternative cylinder head gasket, you could always use Copper, however when using Copper you will need to ensure that the cylinder head and cylinder block mating surfaces are expertely machined to a very very fine imperfection tolerance!

Don't think about dropping static C/R increase it! Yes this goes against the grain, but does have it's advantages.
 
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Old Jun 4, 2011 | 12:26 PM
  #73  
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Originally Posted by Raymazing
300 is PERFECT Mike
300 whp in a MINI fun, but it's nuts and can be a handfull. Few really know what this feels like. You'll have a blast if you do it, Just make sure you hold on tight.

Originally Posted by czar

Don't think about dropping static C/R increase it! Yes this goes against the grain, but does have it's advantages.
My sentiments exactly. Run the highest C/R possible the gas, tune, and use will allow safely.
 
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Old Jun 4, 2011 | 07:56 PM
  #74  
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tell me about it I also have an OS Giken diff. Have you heard of torque steer??? LOL!!
 
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Old Jun 4, 2011 | 09:14 PM
  #75  
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No head studs available yet for the Turbo engine?
 
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