Drivetrain WHO makes Aftermarket Pistons and Rods????????
We would prefer to build the bottom end our selves. For us this is the best way to ensure the parts are set up and used correctly. However we will sell the parts individually for those that wish to do the work them selves.
We are in the process of acquiring some bare blocks for a block exchange program. With this a customer can order a bottom end and have it built prior to tear down. Down time on a car can be reduced from 2 months to a week or less. A core charge would be added to the build cost, but will be returned with the exchange of a suitable block.
The Darton sleeves basically give an aluminum block the strength of a cast iron one. Both the iron cylinder liner and the aluminum carrier in the block are removed and replaced with solid iron sleeve. The outer edge of the sleeve extends across the water jacket to the rest of the block creating a semi closed deck. This greatly increasing the pressure the block can handle.
Based off other manufactures engines with similar build designs like the N14. sleeves are recommended for boosted engines planned to build more then 300 whp or pushing an average PSI of 25 +. This may not be the true for the N14, but we build on the side of caution. Sleeved aluminum engines have been testes to handle close to 50 PSI. This is far more pressure then any street car would see, but it gives an idea how stout the engines are after sleeving.
Sorry for the pic of a Honda block, but this is pretty much what an N14 would look like sleeved.

We are in the process of acquiring some bare blocks for a block exchange program. With this a customer can order a bottom end and have it built prior to tear down. Down time on a car can be reduced from 2 months to a week or less. A core charge would be added to the build cost, but will be returned with the exchange of a suitable block.
The Darton sleeves basically give an aluminum block the strength of a cast iron one. Both the iron cylinder liner and the aluminum carrier in the block are removed and replaced with solid iron sleeve. The outer edge of the sleeve extends across the water jacket to the rest of the block creating a semi closed deck. This greatly increasing the pressure the block can handle.
Based off other manufactures engines with similar build designs like the N14. sleeves are recommended for boosted engines planned to build more then 300 whp or pushing an average PSI of 25 +. This may not be the true for the N14, but we build on the side of caution. Sleeved aluminum engines have been testes to handle close to 50 PSI. This is far more pressure then any street car would see, but it gives an idea how stout the engines are after sleeving.
Sorry for the pic of a Honda block, but this is pretty much what an N14 would look like sleeved.

OK. That covers the bottom end. What do I do with the head? Right now I have an issue. Occas smoke when started. We looked down the cylinders with a borescope on friday and oil is leaking from a couple of the valves/guides on cyl 3. At this point I'm not using any significant amount of oil. Do you offer upgrades? Just for reference I'm using the Alta billet 56 turbo. Boost peaks around 27 at 3000prm and tapers to 22ish at redline--7000.
Thanks again-Ray
Pistons are $750 w/o a skirt coating.
Pistons with a skirt coating start at $850 depending on type of coating used.
Rods are $1300
Keep in mind the pistons and rods are designed to run together. They physically will not work with a factory rod or piston. This was done to ensure maximum strength and reliability.
Pistons with a skirt coating start at $850 depending on type of coating used.
Rods are $1300
Keep in mind the pistons and rods are designed to run together. They physically will not work with a factory rod or piston. This was done to ensure maximum strength and reliability.
I haven't priced out a full R56 build, but R53's run about 300-350 ish from BMW.
Victor Reinz should have a kit too that's pretty much OE equivalent.
Victor Reinz should have a kit too that's pretty much OE equivalent.
@Mike-Thanks brother! Ill check that out...
@countryboy- There is no reason that our motors cant make 1000hp if prepped correctly. SOMEONE just has to try (read: BREAK) things in order to get there. No one said a 1.6L honda could hit 9's and they did it, 8's and they did it... We are just pushing the envelope on a different platform.
@countryboy- There is no reason that our motors cant make 1000hp if prepped correctly. SOMEONE just has to try (read: BREAK) things in order to get there. No one said a 1.6L honda could hit 9's and they did it, 8's and they did it... We are just pushing the envelope on a different platform.
Reminds me of this.

@RMW- Notice I said "if prepped correctly". No one thought 4 years after the B16A came out that it was capable of supporting the numbers that are regularly had with them. Keep it in perspective. If you keep doing your job then you might be around for some of those big milestones.
@countryboy- here you go then https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...t/18564/cat/49
@countryboy- here you go then https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...t/18564/cat/49
@RMW- Notice I said "if prepped correctly". No one thought 4 years after the B16A came out that it was capable of supporting the numbers that are regularly had with them. Keep it in perspective. If you keep doing your job then you might be around for some of those big milestones.
not to mention these cars were made for road tracks , going in a straight line is quite boring but what the heck do I know?
I've always been a fan of higher comp small turbo vs. lower comp larger turbo, so lowering the C/R isn't my biggest priority. I understand the reasoning to lower the C/R, but dropping it may cause some new problems
There are some performance disadvantages, but that's not what I'm concerned about.
The main issue that I can see is the head gasket would change the position of the injector. This has a chance to cause an issue with fuel delivery into the cup on the piston.
@RMW- You really arent paying attention but whatever. I am aware of the hardware limitations as of RIGHT NOW. Development has to be done blah blah blah. Everything is going to be direct injection soon so someone is going to get this **** sorted. If its not you then so be it but others will push the boundaries... As far as straight line vs. road course I agree with you but not all people do. I personally didnt want more than 325 whp on a high boost setting. You were supposed to help me with that right?
@RMW- You really arent paying attention but whatever. I am aware of the hardware limitations as of RIGHT NOW. Development has to be done blah blah blah. Everything is going to be direct injection soon so someone is going to get this **** sorted. If its not you then so be it but others will push the boundaries... As far as straight line vs. road course I agree with you but not all people do. I personally didnt want more than 325 whp on a high boost setting. You were supposed to help me with that right?
you will be lucky to make 280whp with what you have and then keeping it together will the be the next issue. There's much to learn with these cars
At some point what i'd like to do is do a rebuild but just to make the bottom end bullet proof to run daily driveable power...less than 300 at the wheels.
Strengthen the mains, sleeve the motor, better pistons, better rods, balance/clean up the crank, better head gasket, stronger head studs...etc etc.
Pretty much the service Mike has available...but i'll most certainly be waiting until I blow my stock motor before going that route...might as well get my moneys worth out of the stock motor and have some fun.
Strengthen the mains, sleeve the motor, better pistons, better rods, balance/clean up the crank, better head gasket, stronger head studs...etc etc.
Pretty much the service Mike has available...but i'll most certainly be waiting until I blow my stock motor before going that route...might as well get my moneys worth out of the stock motor and have some fun.
At some point what i'd like to do is do a rebuild but just to make the bottom end bullet proof to run daily driveable power...less than 300 at the wheels.
Strengthen the mains, sleeve the motor, better pistons, better rods, balance/clean up the crank, better head gasket, stronger head studs...etc etc.
Pretty much the service Mike has available...but i'll most certainly be waiting until I blow my stock motor before going that route...might as well get my moneys worth out of the stock motor and have some fun.
Strengthen the mains, sleeve the motor, better pistons, better rods, balance/clean up the crank, better head gasket, stronger head studs...etc etc.
Pretty much the service Mike has available...but i'll most certainly be waiting until I blow my stock motor before going that route...might as well get my moneys worth out of the stock motor and have some fun.
We plan to use that time testing our engine in my car. Although we will hit the track, the main goal will be to assess the stress of daily driving as that's what most people will be doing with the car still. I probably won't even run higher boost levels for the first few months and then will slowly turn it up.
The end goal is to push enough out to hit around the 300 WHP mark simply to test reliability. Realistically this is too much for a daily and I would end up dialing it back.
I've not had any issues with them yet!
If you really want an alternative cylinder head gasket, you could always use Copper, however when using Copper you will need to ensure that the cylinder head and cylinder block mating surfaces are expertely machined to a very very fine imperfection tolerance!
Don't think about dropping static C/R increase it! Yes this goes against the grain, but does have it's advantages.
300 whp in a MINI fun, but it's nuts and can be a handfull. Few really know what this feels like. You'll have a blast if you do it, Just make sure you hold on tight.
My sentiments exactly. Run the highest C/R possible the gas, tune, and use will allow safely.
My sentiments exactly. Run the highest C/R possible the gas, tune, and use will allow safely.


