So yesterday at the wintercross the forced induction class results were:

1- Stage 2 GTI
2- Stage 2 Mini from Wyoming (Not sure how mini guys specify stage 2, but he had the 17% pulley, full exhaust, a tune, camber adjustment, intake, lowering springs, and a few other things)
3- Cobalt SS ( Not sure what mods, but at least an exhaust was visible/ audible)

4(last)- ME (Stock mini, bald Falken Azenis in rear)

It was pretty slippery in the morning, but i never hit a single cone. In the afternoon they tightened the cones up a bit and I found that I just didnt have stopping power even though the track had dried up. I havent seen the final times, but even having the lowest powered car, I think that I was pretty close at least to the cobalt.

Anyway, the next event is January 15th and I have vowed to beat at least the cobalt. I have 2k to work with, and a little more if I sell my shifter kart (pm me if you want to buy or trade stuff for it).

Here is what I am thinking for mods, but given my budget what else do you think would help:

1. BFG R1's (found a used set on some wheels for $700)
2. Lowering springs (I can't seem to find a set of coilovers that I think would be much better than lowering springs without going to the Ohlins coils, but I'm guessing I am wrong)
3. Upgraded brake pads, SS Lines, and new Fluid
4.Pulley, Intake, Exhaust

I want to do as little to the motor as possible focusing on suspension, brakes, and traction before power.

I figured I would start here and go until I run out of funds. Is there a better route?

 

Have you already upgraded the rear sway bar? You might want to have this moved to the track section of the site for more attention and potential responses.

 

Thank you for the idea. Hadn't upgraded the sway bar but had it on my shopping cart list actually. Thanks for moving this, I hope some more people chime in.

 

A sway bar and new rubber will make the car a totally different animal.

 

You sound like you are on the right track with your list. But do yourself a favor, ditch the full A/M Exhuast for a one-ball, and use the money you save for camber plates, Rear LCAs etc.

the 5 HP difference between A/M and 1-ball just dont justify the 600-700 dollars. You could gain twice that for half the cost if you can install a cam yourself.

 

^Thank you for the input I really appreciate it. I am coming from the world of SUBARUS and AE86 Corollas. Aside from those, Mini coopers are the only car short of a GTR I would drive.

ANYWAY,
I have a small shop I run that gets me a decent discount on a lot of parts.

I just ran through the order I wrote up, and this is what is on my primary list (aside from the cheap wheels and tires):

Alta 02-06 R53 Mini Black Intake
Alta Mini Cooper Pulley 2 piece Removal Tool (is this absolutely necessary?)
Alta Mini Cooper S V2 15% Super Charger Pulley
Alta 02-06 Mini & 07+ R56 Mini 22mm Adjustable Rear Swaybar
Alta 02-06 Mini & 07+ R56 Mini V2 Rear Adjustable Control Arms (Set of 2)
Alta 03/02-06 Mini & 07+ R56 Mini V2 Front End Links
Alta Mini Cooper PSRS Caster Kit Solid Mount
Alta 02-06 Mini Tensioner Stop



I guess you can tell I get decent pricing on Alta stuff

I dont get a good discount on any Catless Downpipes though :(

I am not 100% on the pulley stuff yet as It is really kind of last on my list, but it seems like a little money for a nice power gain.

As for A/M vs 1-Ball, I am sorry Im not sure what the A/M exhaust is?

 

The pulley puller is needed, unless you want to cut the old pulley off. The OE pulley is heat pressed on, so it's just held on by friction. Lots of it. Pulleys make it possible to pull it off instead of cutting.

A/M is just an abbreviation for aftermarket .

If you are just looking to improve autoX times, then you might look at getting a 17% pulley instead of a 15. The 17 will give you more boost in the low/mid range, but it overspins the supercharger at the top, so it becomes inefficient.

IIRC Alta PSRS has a reputation of working well, but wearing out quickly.

 

Thank you.

I actually don't really do autocross, I am setting the car up for time attack and when I really start to hate the car I may do door to door (poor thing).

I actually think my oem exhaust is rusting through so I may make the exhaust a priority though I would like to spend money on other things first.

Interesting point on the pulley, I will look into that.

 

Is there a defining line on these as to when you require a re tune?

I know on my STI, when you get to a intake and turbo back, you are already up and ready for your stage 2 tune.

 

as for the exhaust, you can do what im about to do. I have a friend that taught me how to weld this past summer, and is letting me use his shop ( i have to buy the feed) to weld up my own exhaust. ~350 in materials using borla stainless pipe, mandrel bends and a resonator and muffler.

 

Add to that some camber plates and you will be amazed. The fixed Irelands are good and don't require adjustment or maintenance. And depending on how many miles you have your strut mounts may be marginal at best.

Without this stuff, more horsepower will be wasted.

Rich (an old kart guy myself. VERY old. My first kart had Goodyear Blue Streaks. Even new it was like being on ice.)

 

^Thank you. It is always hard to change the make, model, and even country of origin of the vehicle. You kind of have to start over in relearning the modification brands and processes. It is easy to pick what areas you want to do first and stage them, but really learning about the products and the way they work together etc. Time for more reading.

 

I would avoid lowering springs on the stock shocks, except for maybe the JCW or TSW springs. I'd either just run stock springs or the above with Koni Yellows or Bilstein Sports....or get a good set of coilovers. Key word being "good" not "cheap."

Camber plates will make a large difference and are a must. Your coilovers don't have to come with them, in fact most high end coilovers (JRZ, Moton, AST) do not. Just get Vorshlags if they don't.

I would decide on the rest of your suspension set-up before jumping into the 22mm rear bar. The 19mm might be a better fit.

- Andrew

 

If you autocross, there may be rules which limit the mods you can make at the risk of bumping you into a class in which you will be uncompetitive. If you just track for fun, then everything is open.

Figure out your budget. Tracking, the limited slip is less important. Autocross, it is one of the better (and most expensive) mods.

For power, best mod is the pulley. For longevity's sake go with the 15% and see if you can borrow or rent a pulley puller.

Brakes: I have 2003 MCS and stock brakes with Ferrodo DS2500 pads and hi temp fluid. They work well for the track. Pretty cheap mod.

If you are messing with suspension, rear bar and camber plates first. If you are going to spend a lot, check out coil overs as they stiffen everything up and maybe come with camber adjustment (my Cross/JIC do) and reduce need for fatter rear bar.

Figure out your budget and call one of the hotshoe tuners on here to make a plan.

 

For now, This will be my main league I try to keep points in:

http://lapbattle.com/

I have done coilovers on my past cars, but have yet to do the research necessary to really find what I want for the mini.

Let me do a bit more research But this is really helpful so far as I have cut a lot of parts off of the list I originally had going.

 

So now add Coilovers to the list. I would like the JIC cross coilovers, but I may go with the Stance GR+ as they cost about 1/3 as much. I have read some really good reviews about stance as well.

 

I have no experience with coilovers except for the JIC/Cross on my car. They seem to work well.

Grassroots Motorsports recently had a little story about KW's and the QC and testing they are put through. It was insightful and impressive. There are lots out there. Go with a brand which has good quality control and has been at it a while (and will be there if you have problems). I'd steer clear of Chinese knockoffs.

 

it's my opinion that there are few really well thought out coilovers for the MINI.

i'd personally do a customized set of AST if you want to win. or JRZ if you have more cash.

 

+1
to SteveS and Andyroo comments

Wow very few rules, cool.
Anything goes for engine, but very limited on suspension though??
You are allowed engine swaps and aftermarket forced induction, but must keep OEM control arms
THAT IS WEIRD??

 

If not, shees I would suggest the Alta Twurbo since you only need it for two 20 minute sessions and one hot lap . And it seems rules allow it.

If it does serve as DD, then the RMW Head, Cam, Header and Exhaust would be better.

 

Good luck trying to get a set of Cross coilovers. They stopped making them and still can't tell us when they will have them available again. I talk to them once a month and get the same old story.

 

^Yeah I don't quite understand the rules tbh. Still researching the coilovers, but I think that there are a few really good suggestions here as well.

Here is what I got to start out for now:


and

 

So far only the CAI and Exhaust have been installed.

As for today, my second Snowcross of the season.



and



Keep in mind, this is my first FF car ever, AND second time driving competitively. I have only owned it for a bit over a month now? Lost to the other mini with a lot of work done to it by 2 seconds over all. Beat the car that beat me last time by more than 5 seconds!

 

Congratulations on a great time. I took me a couple months to figure out how to drive my MINI when I got it.

Best bang for buck is the sway bar and pulley and cooler spark plugs.
You still have lots of money left, so get the cool air intake, and IE camber plates.
If you still have money, get a camshaft.
Next, get a header. Like everyone else says, only get an aftermarket exhaust if you have extra money. One-ball is fine.
Also, get the M7 strut tower bar at some point. It will really firm up the car.
Rear control arms are nice too but you don't really need them unless you're lowering the car, which is out of your budget range.

 

"Mini from Wyoming"

No tune yet.

Cobalt, No mods bone stock, has a aftermarket resonator and a tip