Daytona, if you have the helix 15% the change to a helix 19% would be quite easy, the hard part has been done...

 

Well I have been running my 17% pulley for 6,000 miles (6 weeks), and there are no issues to report. The cold weather up here in the northeast makes my Cooper S and Animal. So much so that it scared me one night when I got on it coming out of a corner.
I have not gotten a chance to dyno my car with the 17% pulley but I will soon. Keep in mind my present set up is 17% pulley, K&N typhoon intake, JCW exhuast.

As far as changing the pulleys trackside. It can be done but it involves jacking up the motor and releasing the tension on the belt. I have seen eric do it in about an hour, but then again he has done allot of Pulleys so he is a Pulley swappin Fool :smile:.

KoolMini,
ummmm Bring it to the track. I will run your GTO :smile:. i will probably loose but I will still think my MINI is fast.

 

>>
>>KoolMini,
>> ummmm Bring it to the track. I will run your GTO :smile:. i will probably loose but I will still think my MINI is fast.
>>

what are you too scared to run my MINI

 

>> if you have the helix 15% the change to a helix 19% would be quite easy, the hard part has been done...

 

Check out nullHelix's website.

 

BlueMCS & vdubdoug,

Are either of you running new spark plugs w/ your smaller pullies?

 

KoolMINI,
Yeah i will run your mini. Will put 3 dollars on the table. Best 2 out of 3 wins... :smile:

All www.helix13.com has to do is swap out the pulley. Since your hub is already on there (you can use your existing hub). The pulley would cost you 80 bucks plus install.

no new plugs yet. will do soon :???:

 

>>any headlight flickering issues with these pullies as na motors do?

My dealer also assumed that when I mentioned a "pulley", that I was refering to a overdrive pulley for the alternator. This caused him to inform me that my entire electrical system warranty will be voided if I put a pulley on my car. By the time I figured out his assumption, and mine, I had already contacted Randy Webb and Ryephile to cancel my Saturday appointment for the Detroit Pulley Party, for the second time.
Just goes down as another examlple why it can be painfull to "assume".

 

>alternator pully

thanks, yah, i guess we're talking bout a completely different pully, my bad. ops:

btw, how does the MSC with smaller sc pully handle oxygenated gas in the
wintertime? no fuel re-mapping required or cels? no knocking?

 

>>>>any headlight flickering issues with these pullies as na motors do?
>>
>>My dealer also assumed that when I mentioned a "pulley", that I was refering to a overdrive pulley for the alternator. This caused him to inform me that my entire electrical system warranty will be voided if I put a pulley on my car. By the time I figured out his assumption, and mine, I had already contacted Randy Webb and Ryephile to cancel my Saturday appointment for the Detroit Pulley Party, for the second time.

That's what your voltage regulator is for. My local dealer warrants the car with any mod except an ECU reflash. Another dealer nearby is installing pulleys. Maybe you shold tell your dealer that he should have paid more attention at Lincoln Tech .

Speaking of tech, I thought you could change the pulley size (on a press fit hub) without jacking the motor. True?

 

Yeah, maybe I'm wrong but I think you can changing the Helix pulley is only a 5-10 minute job. Eric?????

 

There is no room for a tool to loosen the all the allen head bolts. You basically have to losen one bult, crank the motor losen, cran/losen and so on till you have them all removed. The problem with that method is that you can losen 5 out of 6 bolts and then the last bolt does not end up in an easy place to get at. I have seen it done twice and it is faster to "Jack" the motor.

Andy@ross tech care to chime in???

 

>>Are either of you running new spark plugs w/ your smaller pullies?
>>

Denso 22's. Put them in after I did the 15% pulley. Never fouled, never a misfire code.

 

so you guys are okay with winterized gas? or are you adding octane boosters
while using the 15%+ reduction pullies? you may be surprised to see how much
the motor may lean out without you knowing it.

 

I have the Helix 15% pulley and the Webb/Powerchip ECU re-map.
(plus an exhaust, air intake ...)

I spoke to Powerchip directly and they said that they would not reccommend the 17% and/or 19% pullies w/ this software as it is optimized only for the 15% pulley.
They further explained that they would not be comfortable with the possible negative ramifications due to these new reduced pullies ??????
They unfortnately.... did not give me specific.... reasons/rational/explinations.
I've left messages..... with various vendors.... but no one has responded with any additional info

Anyone care to comment????

I'm listening :smile:


Peace,
D

 

Is there any ECU that's designed for 17% pulley? :smile:

 

Well From what I have seen (Fuel/Air ratio's) I am not leaning out. My Tailpipes are as black as ever.

I have not seen any Software for the 17% yet since the pulley has just hit the market.

 

What A/F do you consider to be too lean? How lean have you seen a motor lean out to with a 15%?...I'm very curious to find out what data you have.

I witnessed two (2) pulley'd cars run on a dyno with A/F mixture graphs. Neither of them got any leaner than 12.1 on the A/F and that was when RPMs approached 7K. All the other time, it appeared to be 10-11 on the A/F.

 

I'd be happy with 11.5:1 at WOT, what i've seen posted is way richer, or in the 9-10 range.

 

If it helps any, here's my dyno runs with the 15% pulley (and ECU).

 

binkydognose, thanks for sharing the dyno result!
Which ECU are you using? Do you have any other mods at the time of dyno? :smile:

 

nn... my mcs is stock, i was just asking a question. on my other car (wrx), i tend
to lower boost levels of about 2.5-3psi between winterized gas in 25-32F temps
vs. normal gas in 80F temps. also retard timing as well a tad and correct fuel.
I can program this on my biggyback (TurboXS UTEC). it has knock detection
which flashes the cel whenever the mix becomes lean and automatically
retards timing. it also has data logging capability where i can look back and
change the parameters where the mix is getting too lean, etc.

from wat you guys are doing, to me, it sounds like you are blind foldedly
increasing psi without much consideration to temp/humidity and winterized
gas and no data logging ability. so i was just wondering if you guys were
sure what you were doing. not that im saying this out of disrespect or anything...
i was just wondering how you guys are making sure you are stoich.

_________________
03MCS IB/Blk: 123, Aerokit, R90, 16" TK5, 6CDMP3, and more.

 

>>from wat you guys are doing, to me, it sounds like you are blind foldedly
>>increasing psi without much consideration to temp/humidity and winterized
>>gas and no data logging ability. so i was just wondering if you guys were
>>sure what you were doing. not that im saying this out of disrespect or anything...
>>i was just wondering how you guys are making sure you are stoich.

Speaking only for myself, I'm a total rookie. This is the first car that's inspired me to mod. I'm in Phoenix where we deal with crappy fuel and heat so the only additional thing I did was put in the colder Denso plugs that are supposed to help avoid detonation in the hot months. Working wonderfully in the upper 70's with oxygenated fuel, we'll see how it fares come spring/summer.

 

>>binkydognose, thanks for sharing the dyno result!
>>Which ECU are you using? Do you have any other mods at the time of dyno? :smile:

Web/Powerchip ECU, Magnaflow catback and the Madness intake. I did the ignition stuff after the dyno (wires, coil, denso plugs). I understand this is a different type of dyno machine that you can read about here.

 

there was a lot of concern when the 15% pulley first came out a year ago about potential lean running. Test were done, graphs were posted, wideband O2 readings were displayed.

Kenchan, you must have missed all this.

the outcome was that even running the 15%, the stock ecu WOT performance was still way rich...9:1-10:1. (Stoich is way too lean for WOT boosted applications...typically 11.5:1-12:1 is the target). When the chip mods started to come out, the original EVO was still way rich. Then Powerchips and the new EVO came out, but I'm not up on whether there are posted A/F readings. Then Conforti with the Shark claims that the mixture needs richening, not leaning! (he may simply mean that compared to stoich, WOT needs to be richer, but this was a confusing comment)

My tailpipes are sooty black.

I haven't seen anything about oxygenated fuel.