Drivetrain (Cooper S) MINI Cooper S (R53) intakes, exhausts, pulleys, headers, throttle bodies, and any other modifications to the Cooper S drivetrain.

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Old Mar 15, 2010 | 04:03 AM
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Potential Mod List

Today, I am picking up my new-to-me 04 MCS IB/W with 39k miles.
Here are all the things I intend to do over the next few years from cosmetic to performance. Comments, suggestions, and advice are not only welcome but strongly encouraged! Perhaps I forgot something and you would like to add?
BTW, this is going to be my daily so I want to keep it functional as one but, I do plan on occasional track days/HPDE - probably 4-6 times a year. Alot depends on budget.
Comming from a "Justa" I am pretty satisfied performance wise so I'll be begining with aesthetics. Here goes: In no particular order...

Cosmetic:
Exterior
-aero grill
-Aero spoiler
-Driving Lights
-window tint
Interiorr
-racing seats w/harness....maybe
-guages (oil pressure/temp, boost, etc)

Preventive Cost Mods:
-M7 SRPs/STDs
-TSW Torque Damper
-Powerflex bushings

Performance:
Power
-15% reduction pulley
-DDM Intake
-JCW Catback (resonator delete)
-JCW tune
Suspension
-Koni Yellows (Shocks/struts/springs)
-H-sport sway bar
-control arms?
-camber plates?
Drivetrain
-05+ close-gear ratio 6speed getrag w/LSD when/if my current goes
Brakes
-SS Brake lines
-EBC, etc? Performance pads (less brake dust)
-Cross drilled/slotted rotars
-Blue painted/powder coated calipers?? (for looks obviously)

Wheels:
Tires?
Kumho Ecstas
Rims
??
I want some white powder coated wheels that will help show off my calipers/rotars.

This list is tentative and is subject to revision.

Also, I would like to know what others have done to their MINIs
 

Last edited by R53 Speed; Apr 14, 2011 at 05:05 PM.
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Old Mar 15, 2010 | 06:59 AM
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The vmaxx coilovers are not the ticket if you plan on doing 4-6 Track days track days a year.
 
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Old Mar 15, 2010 | 07:22 AM
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That looks like a good starting point for a mod list. I have a few comments about parts that you have listed. I won't comment about brands, since that would be a little over-the-top self serving.

-save your money and don't bother with a catch can
-I would put engine dampeners in the realm of cosmetic. If you like the look, go for it, but don't expect any change in performance.
-good choices for power mods
-I agree that there are better choices than Vmaxx for your suspension--keep it simple.
-yes to both control arms and camber plates for suspension tuning
-Spec clutches have a history of premature failure. There are several better brands IMO, look at Clutchmasters
-Save your money on gear ratios unless you are tuning for a specific track, and are finding your gearing incorrect for that track.
-EBC green stuff are good street pads (low dust) but not performance pads
-finally, for top performance, paint those calipers yellow: your stopping distances will reduce by 20%
 
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Old Mar 15, 2010 | 08:28 AM
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Originally Posted by Helix13mini
That looks like a good starting point for a mod list. I have a few comments about parts that you have listed. I won't comment about brands, since that would be a little over-the-top self serving.

-save your money and don't bother with a catch can
-I would put engine dampeners in the realm of cosmetic. If you like the look, go for it, but don't expect any change in performance.
-good choices for power mods
-I agree that there are better choices than Vmaxx for your suspension--keep it simple.
-yes to both control arms and camber plates for suspension tuning
-Spec clutches have a history of premature failure. There are several better brands IMO, look at Clutchmasters
-Save your money on gear ratios unless you are tuning for a specific track, and are finding your gearing incorrect for that track.
-EBC green stuff are good street pads (low dust) but not performance pads
-finally, for top performance, paint those calipers yellow: your stopping distances will reduce by 20%
Why not the v-maxx? What do you recommend?
I just threw the spec out there. But thanks for advising me on somethign else.

As far as the gearing, I was just saying that since the 04s have taller gears, if my getrag ever failed me, I would opt for the 05+build date with the closer ratios is all I was saying. I hope to avoid that all together though

yellow caiplers...
 
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Old Mar 15, 2010 | 08:35 AM
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Vmaxx are not really designed for track. They are more for people on a budget wanting coilovers for adjustablity and to go low. They offer more travel then stock which is good for lowering because with lowering springs on stock shocks the travel is reduced considerably.
 
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Old Mar 15, 2010 | 08:54 AM
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Originally Posted by checkmate2006
Vmaxx are not really designed for track. They are more for people on a budget wanting coilovers for adjustablity and to go low. They offer more travel then stock which is good for lowering because with lowering springs on stock shocks the travel is reduced considerably.
Ah okay.

Btw, I might have overshot it with guessing 4-6 track days a year. 2-3 is probably much more realistic.
 
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Old Mar 15, 2010 | 09:37 AM
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Depending on the miles on the car...I do a quality set of ingnition wires, maybe a coil...not to so much make power, but to prevent problems in the future...new plugs, one step cooler (just like JCW's would be good too), and new belt, and a DT belt tennsioner stop (just incase you throw/break a belt...no rattle from the cable type either).
And since you are planning on a tune, get JCW 380' injectors if you can swing it...Jan says the stock ones are pretty well maxed out with a pulley...and you can get more hp, especially at higher rpm's while mataing the proper mixture....very important in matining a long engine life...especialy if it will spend lots of time near the rev-limiter like many track cars.
 
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Old Mar 15, 2010 | 08:25 PM
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I won't need to upgrade ignition atm as I haven't even hit 40k miles yet. But will get cooler plugs & larger injectors when I do a pulley...when...

Is there anyway to get more burble? The 05-06 MCS have nice burble but it's barely present on the 04. I love the precious burble.
Would a tune or exhaust add more or is it a false hope? Please tell me there is hope!
 
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Old Mar 16, 2010 | 06:11 PM
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the exhaust will give u the burble, i did the one ball and got the burble which is awesome.
 
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Old Mar 16, 2010 | 07:23 PM
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exterior:

angel eyes - IMHO doesn't really fit a MINI even with the 05-06 projector headlights

JCW aero wing - although it IS a good looking wing, the whole look will be kinda off with a stock front end (no splitter). i'd probably get a front splitter instead because you have the OEM rear wing to balance things out aesthetically


interior

dash - seriously...woodgrain?!

racing seats & harness - if you insist, get a reclinable model for daily comfort + a harness. or keep the stock seats + Schroth harness

gauges - a boost & oil pressure gauge ought to be enough


preventive cost mods

TSW torque damper & powerflex bushings - won't this be a redundant mod in terms of reducing engine movement under hard acceleration? i have the powerflex lower engine & tranmission bushings & it noticeably adds vibration inside


power mods - (might need injectors though)

drivetrain - based on what i've read here on NAM, the stock clutch is fine until 200whp. based on your planned engine mods, i think the stock clutch will be just fine for now

brakes - if upgrading rotors, stay away from cross drilled rotors, get slotted ones
 
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Old Mar 16, 2010 | 08:40 PM
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Originally Posted by mini_macky
exterior:

angel eyes - IMHO doesn't really fit a MINI even with the 05-06 projector headlights

JCW aero wing - although it IS a good looking wing, the whole look will be kinda off with a stock front end (no splitter). i'd probably get a front splitter instead because you have the OEM rear wing to balance things out aesthetically


interior

dash - seriously...woodgrain?!

racing seats & harness - if you insist, get a reclinable model for daily comfort + a harness. or keep the stock seats + Schroth harness

gauges - a boost & oil pressure gauge ought to be enough


preventive cost mods

TSW torque damper & powerflex bushings - won't this be a redundant mod in terms of reducing engine movement under hard acceleration? i have the powerflex lower engine & tranmission bushings & it noticeably adds vibration inside


power mods - (might need injectors though)

drivetrain - based on what i've read here on NAM, the stock clutch is fine until 200whp. based on your planned engine mods, i think the stock clutch will be just fine for now

brakes - if upgrading rotors, stay away from cross drilled rotors, get slotted ones
Yeah, I seriously doubt I'll get woodgrain lol. I have the brushed aluminum dash + door handles and it looks great...however...the numbskull who owned it last thought it would be neat to paint the airbag peice of dash black and it looks goofy. Not sure what I wont but no wood.

I dunno, I think the JCW wing will look good without a splitter. We'll see. I really do want an aero grill though. Still debating on the angle eyes - they are neat but are they $90 neat...

Still TBA on shift kit + ****...

Racing seats, although cool, don['t feel like spending the $$ on them. I'll just get the harness and be set.

I'm fine with stock clutch+flywheel atm. But will upgrade when time comes.

I have the carbon fiber damper already so might as well use it. I also have the bushings for lower motor mount but need to pick up some for the tranny. I'll also opt for the TSW motor mounts when I install the bushings.

Yeah, I'll just get the boost+OP guage kit to hook onto the tach. I have a scanguage as well as the onboard computer so I should be set.
 
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Old Mar 16, 2010 | 08:43 PM
  #12  
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Here is what I'm thinking now as far as performance goes:

22mm IE rear swaybar
coilovers or just lowering springs. Maybe neither...just have to sit on it.
15% pulley kit (belt+cooler plugs)
A catback. Not sure which one yet. Either the Scorpion, Remus, or Stratmosphere.
Intake - not sure either.
RMW cam later on
RMW tune to wrap it all up.
And yes, larger injectors
 
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Old Mar 16, 2010 | 08:52 PM
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Go for the Hsport Comp Swaybar, it's ideal for your car. The IE 22mm is hollow so it is more like a 19mm bar, and the endlinks on it rattle all the time.

As for intakes, like you said in your initial post the DDM is the Way to go.
 
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Old Dec 29, 2010 | 06:23 AM
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Update:
POWER:
Got the DDM CAI, One-ball, WMW 15% Pulley package
Looking to get - OBX header(?), JCW 380s, and JCW Flash tune.

Suspension:
Probably just going to get WMW suspension package (springs, ca, rsb)


Leaving the interior alone.
Might get racing seats/harness when no longer a daily.

Still really really want the JCW spoiler/wing though as it's uber sexy!

Btw, retro-fitted the Aero spoiler (top&bottom) looks good
 
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Old Jan 3, 2011 | 05:42 PM
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Aero grill looks good! Did you have to remove the bumper cover and cut it at all, or did you just modify the grill insert itself?
 
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Old Jan 3, 2011 | 07:52 PM
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Unfortunately you have to do both - You have to shave a good 1/8th inch off all around the grill (while leaving the tabs). Then, you have to cut new slots into the bumper to match the new tabs from the grill.
Takes a few hours of patience but well worth it.

Or, you could cut off the slats of the aero grill and just glue it to the bumper but I do not recommend that - it will be less stable in the end.
 
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Old Jan 4, 2011 | 09:13 AM
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Originally Posted by mini_macky
exterior:

drivetrain - based on what i've read here on NAM, the stock clutch is fine until 200whp. based on your planned engine mods, i think the stock clutch will be just fine for now
probably more like 250whp... the stock clutch (with all its faults) is fine for power handling.... just look at the other clutches valeo makes, BIG trucks.
 
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Old Jan 4, 2011 | 09:26 AM
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Originally Posted by ggcadc
probably more like 250whp... the stock clutch (with all its faults) is fine for power handling.... just look at the other clutches valeo makes, BIG trucks.
It's not so much the clutch disc, but the flywheel which is the weak link: it can jam and become 'single mass'. It will still operate, allow you to drive, and even hammer, but it will vibrate on uptake and wear out the clutch quicker. I usually advise people to just ignore the vibration (Chewbacca) if they can stand the sound: it's too expensive to tear out the trans just for that. But I agree, the clutch kit, its weak FW, throwout bearing and guide tube notwithstanding, can handle 250 whp if reasonably driven.
 
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Old Jan 4, 2011 | 10:54 AM
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darn that flywheel!!! it is a problem...
 
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Old Jan 4, 2011 | 07:24 PM
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Yeah I won't be replacing my clutch until it needs it - especially since I'll only be pushing about 210whp tops...probably more like 200whp. If it goes while under warranty, OEM clutch/flywheel goes on. If it goes after warranty...well, we'll see about it then
 
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Old Jan 4, 2011 | 07:40 PM
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I think I'm also going to upgrade to EBC redstuff pads in the spring. Also, what are good rotors? I was thinking m7 cross-drilled?

Does the Detroit tuned bypass valve do anything? Worth it/waste??
 
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Old Jan 10, 2011 | 01:29 AM
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Well, got the WMW pulley package + Powerflex bushings on Sat - car feels great!
 
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Old Apr 14, 2011 | 05:08 PM
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Update:
Got the JCW catback (no resonator)
New dash - painted dark silver
Union jack shift **** insert
PIAA 540 driving lights installed today.

To come:
JCW 380cc injectors; JCW Tune.
Koni Yellow sport suspension
Wheels - either anthracite or black...I want about 9 spokes and something light (17-18 lbs) and 17"

Debating on JCW spoiler or Aero Spoiler (leaning towards this one)
 
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Old Sep 10, 2011 | 09:58 AM
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I just swapped in the DT BPV and did the VGS mod while I was in there. My BPV was definitely wore out so it's hard to compare but she feels GREAT now and boost comes on real smoothe. From what I gathered on the VGS thread, that mod is perticularly helpful on our older production R53's.
 
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