ok just ordered forges bov and need help on what grease i should use while installing it and where to get the grease from

 

It comes prelubed, just remove the stock, install the forge, and let us know how you make out. I removed mine.

 

why would you remove it?

 

Vaseline works very well.. This is what i used. I remove my forge adapter for warranty work so seals (on Forge and standard bov)need greesed up each time i put it back in and this stuff does the trick

 

Under high boost it did not sit well with the engine to relieve the pressure on that side of the system, much better to dump boost closer to engine, or further downstream. Many here have experienced the same issue as well.

 

My engine is tuned to around 215bhp and 250lbft and i can agree with your statement. I contacted forge about this and they hadnt heard from anyone about having this issue which made me believe they didnt test it on a 200+bhp car (or more importantly a car running higher boost), it prob works like a treat with the standard car (and as i speak i havent had any problems with it since re-fitting the other day-it seems fine if you grease it and the standard bov generously)

 

I hope I don't have that problem. I have alta boost tubes and K&n cai.

 

Probably no issue for you, I do not have any problems till I run above 14 psi of boost, then all hell breaks loose.

---> Forge adapter causes surge, flutter, and general confusion.
---> CAI becomes a HAI
---> MAF & Intake temp goes crazy.

Run it on a stock MAP no problems.

 

gotcha.... what ecu you have? how much boost does the stock map have?

 

Thats when my engine jumps into 'limp' mode when you build up full boost and release it quickly the turbo flutters (which i have to say sounds amazing). I would say 1 in 10 times i get 'limp' mode. I have used the car without the BOV and never had a problem. My car runs upto 1.3bar peak boost and holds just over 1 bar through the revs

I have the DDMWorks installed CAI which id say is best for performance and doesnt intake hot air I think the HKS BOV may be the way to go

I think standard cooper s runs about 9/10 psi boost

 

I dont know my psi's or bar's but with all the mods that I have I am going in limp mode a lot since I installed the ecu.

I have to take out the forge bov and install de HKS.

 

Get rid of the forge and the Alta HAI

Had the same issue here, spent a while debugging:

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...d.php?t=150470

 

Running the Alta version of the UniChip, stock I believe is about 10 psi, unless you hit over boost then it can go up to 12

 

vasaline doent work well with heat and mine wasnt pre lubed any ideas of grease?

 

Mobil synthetic "red" grease is the way to go. Just curious, what version of the Forge valve do you guys run? 006, 007, race, splitter, etc? Forge valves not being able to hold 200 BHP is bologna. 1.8T guys run 400 HP through them and 25-30 PSI with no problems.

 

The bottom of this page has an excellent Dow product.

http://www.tedpella.com/vacuum_html/grease.htm

 

No-one said the Forge couldn't hold 200BHp. VW forge valves are a completely different beast. I lived in the VW world for many years. The engine tuning is entirely different as well, this isn't close to a comparison.

We are running a Forge spacer that changes our diverter to to a Vent To Atmosphere.

The trouble we see is that when running a remap, or ECU tune beyond factory conditions, the dump to atm confuses the hell out of the ECU. This is due to the close proximity to the turbo, and the fact the ECU expects to see the boost returned to the intake side. Several of us have very sucessfully used a HKS valve further downstream. I myself am still sorting out other issues, and have not moved along the blowoff route again.

 

I was referring to coopman7's post above when I made the 200 BHP testing comment. What I don't get is why you are bothering venting to the atmosphere in the first place. Why not keep the valve running as a DV and not use a splitter/spacer? BOVs only work on non-MAF cars relying solely on MAP control.

 

I only mentioned my power output just incase he didnt know what boost pressures were all about.. And your previous comments show you have no experience with this 'spacer' and the r56 turbo as everyone running higher boost levels find that the ecu flips out due to the forge spacer, I.E when the forge is off everything is fine...Also as said previously it works perfect on the standard car.. I know of people who are running high boost levels and have the HKS BOV fitted and there is not one reported problem their... Its all down to the ECU and where the forge releases the pressure from (standard boost is ok but higher boost causes the turbo to flutter/stall etc thus the ecu kicks into 'limp home mode' as it thinks theres a problem) a quick on/off of the engine resets the 'limp home' fault code..And the HKS being an actual 'BOV' and being positioned at a more sensible part of the cars intake seems to do the trick for those wanting BOV.

And if you read one of my earlier posts you would see i have clearly stated the intention to remove the forge sandwich plate and get a propper BOV fitted at the correct part of the intake once i delete the SG etc..

My car is euro so no MAF

 

Seems to work very well for me and if you note what the standard valve looks like when you take it off you will see some crystally/gritty substance which is the old grease which clearly didnt work well as its dried out whereas ive had my OEM valve on/off many times now and the vaseline is always keeping the seal lubed and doesnt dry out... Each to their own though

Well its just a shame that our cars are R56 mini cooper s turbos and not VW's No-one has mentioned a fault in the design of the forge 'spacer' BUT the standard ECU itself is a little loopy and doesnt like to be messed with.. And i think you will find the '1.8Ts' forge bov is completely different as are the cars.

 

No, I do not have experience with the "spacer" Forge valve used on the turbo R56. Where exactly does the HKS valve plumb in? The point of everything I'm saying is that there is no reason to use a BOV on a car that came stock with a DV. There is no performance benefit to be had, and plenty of problems that may occur. As for using Vaseline as a valve lubricant, it simply does not have high temperature stability of modern synthetic grease. If it works for you that's fine, but Mobil red is a much more purpose-built solution.

 

It plumbs in at the left side of the airbox on the 90degree silicon hose that bends down and under the airbox and into engine..The area highlighted by the red circle in the pic

I agree the car doesnt neccessarily need a bov due to the standard recirc valve but when you increase the boost there is a performance benefit in having a bov fitted in that you can keep the turbo spinning instead of firing the air back the wrong way down the turbo..The HKS works very well and i think its simply down to the fact that it is placed where i have seen most DVs/BOVs on old/new turbo cars i.e near the intake.

I know vaseline isnt exactly what you would call 'the solution' but as a household item that many people have it would come in handy if you didnt have immediate access to proper grease. So i would have to agree with you on the mobil red being purpose built I just thought from the post that the guy sounded like he needed/wanted a quick solution so he could fit his BOV asap kind of thing

 

couldnt find mobile synthetic grease so i went with lucas red n tacky #2

hope it works

 

which end do i grease?

 

nevermindd i got it in and done right and im goin for a test drive