Quote:

Originally Posted by Revolution Mini Works

most cam grinders put false specs up

I agree with Jan. So many people would copy the inventors and try to make money out of nothing on the cost of the inventors. Very less people try to innovate and not imitate. I would expect Jan to keep his information and stay preservative because he is the only knowing the value of his R&D. And I would still buy his stuff. I just find it harsh and embarrassing when asking out of curiosity and he blows away, Although it never happened to me yet. This is my only comment.

 

you know this saudi dude is allright....
Horay and cheers for someone who finaly had their head screwed on straight.
Nice to meet you sir!

 

Nice meeting you too my nice American NAMer!! I've been around here for a year now but only things are getting hotter for me last couple of months when I gained knowledge and contacts. Thanks to all NAM members and vendors

 

I don't see what's so hard to get. When the Schricks data came out, other companies put out cheaper versions, thus taking sales away from schrick. Why would RMW do the same?? It's called a trade secret. If you don't want to buy something without knowing the specs, don't buy it. But I suspect that in this case you might be buying an inferior cam (if you choose one other than the RMW). BTW, the RMW cam is VERY reasonably priced!

 

you pretty much got the jist of how to do it.

once the passenger side engine mounts are off and the engine jacked up you can then get to the cam bolt and chain tensioner bolts

should take an experience mechanic about 1.5-2hrs

the COST OF THE CAM IS $400

 

Jan, you have a cam for "stock" heads and a different one for "your" head correct?

 

no, it works great on both applications

 

Sweet I thought they were two different cams. So once you install one your done . I am waiting to see how Fracky's car dyno's to see how it works out for him .

 

Maybe I missed it, but are there dyno's out yet with your cam and a stock MCS head, Jan? I've been trying to follow along in all of your threads , but haven't really found the data that I'm looking for. Basically a 15% pulley, intake, exhaust, and your cam is what I'm looking for (from someone who has gone this route). If you can point me in a direction, I would most certainly appreciate it Keep up the superb work!

Brian

 

I don't have the numbers from one I have done....yet

but from someone I trust who has the cam told me 7ft lbs and 10-12whp

 

With the mods I listed above? Very nice... Dropping in a cam shouldn't be too complicated right? If you've done cam work before....?

 

a skilled mechanic can do it in 2hrs or less

your results may vary

 

Would you buy injectors that were advertised as just Injectors that are right for your situation

Just like injectors, when you buy a cam, you kinda need to know the numbers.

 

it comes down to trust..... either you trust them or you don't

I still haven't given out the info to the masses on my cylinder head and I can't make them fast enough

99% of the people won't understand it anyway so what' the real point?

 

All I want to know is "Proven Performance," and as with all RMW products, it's been proven multiple times... Numbers don't mean squat to a lot of people (me for instance), they do mean something to someone who can immitate it...

As the old saying goes, "often immitated never duplicated..."

 

You know on some things this would be true about TRADE SECRETS. However any cam grinder in the world will tell you ANY cam can be copied exactly and in many cases improved from. Check out WEB CAMSHAFTS www.webcamshafts.com . A cam can be installed in less then a couple of hours without checking it out, however the correct install on a performance cam is to always dial it in. Why do you think I see a adjustable cam gear offered by RMW as an example? . I am sure that the cam comes with the cam when you buy it from RMW ?
$400 is a very reasonable retail price if we assume that RMW use quality billets to start with.

 

You wouldn't happen to be Dale Jr by any chance would you? I'm just trying to put 2 & 2 together (JRsMINI...Dale Jr...) I believe there is a thread about you back over here
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...d.php?t=135351

 

Asking for specifications is not that big a deal. I can get any spec's you want with the cam in hand. However if Jan RMW does not want to publicize them yet you have to trust in what he has said about his cam. And then the fact that there is good to great results with it posted by those who have it in there mini. There are new cams in the works by many cam grinders that I am aware of and I am sure Jan will be changing his as he goes along. That is the performance game . Jump in and play..expect to install and remove stuff as you go. For a $400 bump cam it is cheap HP to try one.

Skillet......I do not think we need to insult the new guy

 

TRUST YOU kidding
I would I guess that makes my 1%. But then flow figures are inflated anyway....depending......on the cam you use I is sooo funny !!!!

 

I think Jan's aware that anyone can read his cam on a cam profiler, he doesn't want to make it any easier for someone to dupe by posting all the details out in the open (Much the same as he hasn't done with his head, and that's part of the reason why nobody's been able to match the gains he has).

The simple fact that he has 40% of the cam's he's having made already sold before they've even arrived speaks for the demand of his cam.

I'm not sure what you mean by "The cam comes with the cam when you buy it from RMW?" If you're talking about the adjustable cam gear, then no that's a separately sold product, one that I'm not sure he's even selling to the public yet.

FYI properly researched cam shouldn't need any "Adjusting" and aside from moving the timing chain a tooth in one direction or the other, I'm not sure how you'd accomplish anything like that.

Good luck either way, and welcome!

 

I think he meant to say the cam comes with a cam card/spec sheet .

And FYI you really should check all cams for accuracy. Not just a tooth move here or there.

It has nothing to do "with properly researched cam" Even cam grinders will tell you to double check the camshaft. Really please check it out before you debate this fact. Personally I would never assume that the grinder did the correct job in my engine. Example...Would you not check the sizing of your rod bearings before assembling the lower end or check that the big end on the rod was machined to the correct size ?
I understand that there are loyalties and trust here and that is commendable.

The adjustable cam gear if not available from JAN RMW is available from others. For the new guy it is primarily used by the tuner (like RMW) to adjust the cam (advancing/retarding) for improved HP/TQ at a given RPM range. Not to check for correctness of the cam.

 

Right, all depends on what RPM you want to launch or play in the most. Dial the cam in for your needs...if for example, class rules stated that no gear or tire size changes could be made, you could effectively move the powerband....

 

Just a couple of questions...
1. Do you get more out of the cam with a custom tune?
2. Do you need a tune at all?
the reason I ask is that my new head is in and my custom tune is lined up in 2 weeks time however there hasd been a delay with the cam I ordered and it wont get to me for a month!
Will I need to go back and get a re-tune? or should it just be cool dropping it in?

 

Yeah, best thing is you tune after you fnished are the mods. Well you need a tune 120% sure. The tunes makes the car USE the mods you have and it ties them together.

 

..... however, you might get Tuned NOW.. to take advantage of the Head mod.. and when the cam goes in, you can re - do or hang with it a bit!! the biggest power gain will be tuning for the HEAD!! Remember.. the head will lean the system out a bit, and there will be more power after the a/f is modified...yes?? But I agree... tune after all the mods is the best way!!

Hey.. is it winter or summer down under???

Just me..............................

Thumper