Hi there,

When changing the rear control arms what do you do with the little headlight adjustment "thingy" that is attached to the upper arm? You can't just disconnect it, right?

I'm going to get the HSport springs and...

I'm going for the RDR Control Arms ( http://www.mini-works.com ) because they weigh 3.96 pounds for all 4 and also cost $335 for all 4. They aren't as pretty as the H-sport but hey, they're under the car...



-Jim

 

If you have DSC on your car, then this would be a yaw/pitch sensor also. It could have serius affects for your DSC systems if it is not re-conected. I have been waiting for someone to address this before I buy rear arms.

Wes

 

>>If you have DSC on your car, then this would be a yaw/pitch sensor also. It could have serius affects for your DSC systems if it is not re-conected. I have been waiting for someone to address this before I buy rear arms.
>>
>>Wes

Wes,

I kinda wondered about that but was afraid to ask.

Really, one could just Zip tie it back on the arm in the same position. (What RDR and HSport suggest) But I'm looking for caveats.

-Jim

 

I am presently running the rdr control arms in my car. Helix made me a little bracket (temporary) for the DSC sensor but it did not last long .


I have to bug them again to see if they have a permanent fix for the bracket.

 

Doug
What happens when it comes loose? Do the headlight aim into the sky and the breaks slam on? Anything noticable. Does the stumble go away? Does DSC still keep you from smoking your front tires?

Wes

 

>>Doug
>> What happens when it comes loose? Do the headlight aim into the sky and the breaks slam on? Anything noticable. Does the stumble go away? Does DSC still keep you from smoking your front tires?
>>
>>Wes

Well that doesn't happen for SURE because I had the arms on this weekend for an autocross, forgot to turn OFF DSC and it still worked....

The Headlights are the main problem, they didn't level up, they were pointed too close to the car, not too high.

 

I replaced only the lower control arms using H-sport adjustables and everything seems to be OK with my Xenons.
Also you can see the H-sports from the rear- I like the looks. Like functional art.

 

I adjusted my headlights after many night drives since the auto leveling feature is INOP now. The DSC does not work since the bracket is not hooked up, and you can't smoke the tires unless you turn the DSC/Traction control from the switch. The switch turns off your traction control which enables you to smoke the tires and have less stumble free take off.
I have been driving my car this way for about 2 months and have not had any issues. I would like to get the bracket since my car has DSC and I would like to use it as I am good driver but not the best when it comes to handling corners and exit ramps at speed.

 

>>I replaced only the lower control arms using H-sport adjustables and everything seems to be OK with my Xenons.
>>Also you can see the H-sports from the rear- I like the looks. Like functional art.


This connection is on the UPPER DRIVER's SIDE ONLY.

 

This is not exactly on the subject but my MCS with the xenon self leveling headlights and they point down too much. This is very noticable on country roads that do not have street lights. I tried to adjust using the ***** next to the lights but it didn't seem to make a difference. As soon as you ture the llights on they self level again. Any help out there?
Dan

 

Just a note, but I was informed that the stock arms weigh-in at 3.5lbs each, or 14lbs total. If these do indeed weigh 3.96lbs for all 4, that is awesome! But, something seems strange though. The RDR website says that it is a 50% weight-savings... Something is wrong somewhere with the numbers...

 

>>Just a note, but I was informed that the stock arms weigh-in at 3.5lbs each, or 14lbs total. If these do indeed weigh 3.96lbs for all 4, that is awesome! But, something seems strange though. The RDR website says that it is a 50% weight-savings... Something is wrong somewhere with the numbers...


Well, I can tell you for sure that all 4 weigh 3.96 pounds. I'll weigh the stock ones tonight.

Technically, it IS a 50% reduction; it's actually more but...

-Jim

 

Jim, please do share what the stockers weigh-in at. I find this pretty important also...

Thanks for the confirmation of the 3.96 lbs. I wish they sold them in pairs, as I really don't want to do the upper arms. Well, at least not until the DSC and light-leveling issues are ironed-out...

I look forward to your post!

 

my H-sport control arms are not that light, maybe about 3 pounds each so maybe a 3 or 4 pound savings if you do all four. They are adjustable but they are not all aluminum. Maybe mostly steel with adjustments of aluminum. The stock control arms are very basic and look like they could rust in a hurry.

 

I got a figure of 3lbs for the H-Sports - straight from Mark H. A pair would save mabye a pound or so. It helps, but nothing like the RDR's....

But then, these do have a function of course - not just to lose weight. And there are a few of us who are little skeptical of all aluminum units. Acutally, I just spoke with Randy moments ago (Bay Area Pulley visit) and we chatted a bit on the subject. I'll just say that he doesn't feel confident about the integrity of an all aluminum control arm.

I just ordered a pair of the H-Sports to replace my bottom arms. Should also look nice on an IB MCS...

He did say that doing the uppers is more complicated, and rarely necessary. A hoseclamp would suffice for securing purposes.

Oh, he also said that since they use bushings, DSC issues are not a concern as they would tend to be with Heim joints...

Here is a thread on MINI2 that I just found where control arms are discussed. Might be of some help...

http://www.mini2.com/forum/showthrea...threadid=28849

_________________
2003 IB MCS

 

>>Jim, please do share what the stockers weigh-in at. I find this pretty important also...
>>
>>Thanks for the confirmation of the 3.96 lbs. I wish they sold them in pairs, as I really don't want to do the upper arms. Well, at least not until the DSC and light-leveling issues are ironed-out...
>>
>>I look forward to your post!

Tony,

Give Charlie at RDR a call. He may sell you a pair of them instead of 4. http://www.mini-works.com

IMO, do all 4. You're under there anyway and the lower 2 are harder than the upper 2. Actually, the most difficult part is getting 2 little black screws out that hold the heat shield in place! :smile:

I forgot to weigh the stockers (scale is at work) but I promise to have it up here on the morrow.

Also, the zip tie mod did work just fine but I have longevity concerns. You don't want to weld/glue the bracked back to the RDR/Helix bars (same item) because the whole point is to turn them when you want a more agressive stance. Takes a jack and 10 minutes to get to a 1/16" Toe out and a camber of negative 1 -1 1/2.

Randy at Mini-motorsport runs at a negative 2; if you're going to be a bear, be a Grisley! Right?

I'm VERY impressed with the quality of the RDR bars. Especially when you compare them to the stock ones. The variances are unbelieveable on the stock equipment. RDR sends them to you exactly at the correct setting for "stock" so you can just slap them on and go. They recommend going to a good alignment shop to get the Toe and Camber settings stamped on.

-Jim

 

Jim, thanks for the info. I've spoken to Charlie before when I was contemplating a rear sway bar. He was very helpful. Good to know that I can probably get a pair...

If I do the top ones, the only reason would be to save a few pounds. For a couple hundred bucks, I'd have to think about that. Just even a lighter/stronger non-adjustable would be quite desirable since I don't plan to tinker any with that setting. I do want the H-Sports below though. Plus, since they are visible, they have aesthetics going for them as well.

I'm going to be lowering with some coil-overs in the near future, thus the desire for rear control arms, for correction/adjustment reasons. Ever hear of anyone mixing control arms, like RDR's for the tops, and H-Sports for the bottoms? Probably not. If anyone knows of a lighter & stronger replacement for the stockers (fixed), I'd be very interested in putting those up on top...

Still look forward to getting the weight figure for the stock arms Jim. Thanks again!

 

Ok, stock arms weight 3.18 lbs each, so 12.72 lbs.

I'm wondering if I weighed the new arms incorrectly. Can they be THAT much lighter? (3.96 lbs) Maybe someone should verify the weight of the new arms.

-Jim

 

Cool. Thanks Jim. I thought something seemed odd. RDR could claim a much greater than 50% weight savings. Strange why they wouldn't do so in an age where sometimes others over-state...

Were you doing apples to apples? That is just the bars. no hardware on both, etc... Do the RDRs come with mounting hardware, or are you to use existing parts?

Either way. Thanks for the stock figure!

 

>>Cool. Thanks Jim. I thought something seemed odd. RDR could claim a much greater than 50% weight savings. Strange why they wouldn't do so in an age where sometimes others over-state...
>>
>>Were you doing apples to apples? That is just the bars. no hardware on both, etc... Do the RDRs come with mounting hardware, or are you to use existing parts?
>>
>>Either way. Thanks for the stock figure!

The RDR come with some sleeve inserts and I tossed them on the scale too. You reuse the factory bolts and nuts. So as best I could, it was apples to apples.

I'll see Charlie tomorrow and I can have him weigh them.

 

>>Jim, thanks for the info. I've spoken to Charlie before when I was contemplating a rear sway bar. He was very helpful. Good to know that I can probably get a pair...
>>

Tony, I just spoke with Charlie @ RDR and he'd be happy to sell 2 instead of 4. Just give him a call.

$167.50 + Gubbment share.

-Jim

 

Much obliged! If I get uppers, those would be my choice, but then I'd be mix/matching... not good. Thanks for letting me know. A nice 3-day weekend to you!!!

 

Does anyone know ...
1) The lengths (bolt center to center) for the upper and lower rear control arms? +/- 0.5" would be fine.
2) What size bolt is used to locate the arms on each end? ie. What size speherical rod end is needed?
Thanks, Tom