Drivetrain (Cooper S) MINI Cooper S (R53) intakes, exhausts, pulleys, headers, throttle bodies, and any other modifications to the Cooper S drivetrain.

Drivetrain ECU no BS runnarounds please

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Old Jun 3, 2007 | 02:31 PM
  #26  
pyratio's Avatar
pyratio
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From: Austin, Texas - U.S.A.
MiniPowerProg

--These guys are italian but I've heard their customer service is pretty good. The responses may be in broken English but keep in mind it is their second language. I don't know if it is robust enough for your mods but have a look.

http://www.minipowerprog.com/
 
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Old Jun 3, 2007 | 02:38 PM
  #27  
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who are you going to believe? most posters here would like to believe that they made the wisest choice. any vendor here will claim that they have the best solution. i suggest calling vendors whose products you are considering and getting an education from them. ask them the difficlult questions. when done w/ this, you will feel more comfortable w/ one vendor (tuner). not one tune will fit all cars, nor will the risk from an aggressive tune (lean A/F's) be acceptable to all. there is more to tuning than max hp and tq. good luck
 
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Old Jun 3, 2007 | 03:00 PM
  #28  
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From: Ft Myers
Originally Posted by bean
who are you going to believe? most posters here would like to believe that they made the wisest choice. any vendor here will claim that they have the best solution. i suggest calling vendors whose products you are considering and getting an education from them. ask them the difficlult questions. when done w/ this, you will feel more comfortable w/ one vendor (tuner). not one tune will fit all cars, nor will the risk from an aggressive tune (lean A/F's) be acceptable to all. there is more to tuning than max hp and tq. good luck
This is what I have been doing actually also I think for the time being i may go with a used APEXi for the fuel as this was my main concern at the moment. This thread actually kinda morphed away from what ECU but to what tuning aproach. I dont plan on running too agressive but I do want to lean my top end out. Theres something to be said about gaining 10hp from 1pt on the AFR closer to optimal. Oh and based on my AFR there alot of room.

Secon during my searches today I realised I may actually have a stock sized crank and 15% on there. Anyone care to measure there 2% or stock crank and reply :p This would be on par with my boost im sure. Ill probably add a 2% or 3% but I do not want to go over SC redline.
 
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Old Jun 3, 2007 | 03:31 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by Silkworm
\This thread actually kinda morphed away from what ECU but to what tuning aproach. I dont plan on running too agressive but I do want to lean my top end out. Theres something to be said about gaining 10hp from 1pt on the AFR closer to optimal. Oh and based on my AFR there alot of room..
Silkworm: you can't separtate ECU from tuning. whether it is done through the oem ECU (reflashed) or a piggy back system (SAFEC) it all comes down to reprogramming engine controls. there are many ways to accomplish the same objective (or at least attempt to). other than a pullely install, tuning is the least expensive way to increased power. increased rev limits and better up top A/F's are the start.
 
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Old Jun 3, 2007 | 03:56 PM
  #30  
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From: Ft Myers
Originally Posted by bean
Silkworm: you can't separtate ECU from tuning. whether it is done through the oem ECU (reflashed) or a piggy back system (SAFEC) it all comes down to reprogramming engine controls. there are many ways to accomplish the same objective (or at least attempt to). other than a pullely install, tuning is the least expensive way to increased power. increased rev limits and better up top A/F's are the start.
Understood, never was trying to separate it or asume this. Basicly im going to use the APEXI unit since its used and targets what my main goal of the ECU tune would be (AFR) for now. Later however when the hydra gets some more tinkering by alta and mabye more people. I might consider going that route to change actual maps and other parameters. By then I will have probably already have a head package, Quaife/clutch/flywheel, I really like the M7's intercooler design as well. Basicly by the time I get all or some of this done there should be some good feedback on the Hydra and mabye who knows another tunable ECU software may be out by then. Plus with the extra mods I can take better advantage of it.
 
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Old Jun 3, 2007 | 07:43 PM
  #31  
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I run the Apexi with my turbo conversion. The drive by wire does try to re-assert itself from time to time and at certain throttle positions, but overall I am extrememly happy. I am curious to see what pans out with the Hydra system, and I know the Fireballed guys and Jason at Mynes Performance have big plans but don't know any details beyond that. No timeframe.
 
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Old Jun 3, 2007 | 07:59 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by Silkworm
On a prayer i went to auto zone and lone behold they had the autometer boost gauge i wanted (lite series) it matches the mini gauge cluster but now im getting an idea of my boost now. Ill be getting the gauge pods for the tach soon mbye the 3 pod cause i saw a really cool tire press gauge for all 4 tires. and mabye a wide band or something else worth having. Doubt ill need oil temp/press id rather keep it clean. right now its using semi-hidden zip ties lol.

heres what i saw after it was hooked up:
- Vac at idle was around 10-15
- engine braking produced about 24 vac didnt mess with vac testing much
- 2nd and 3rd gear loads maxed boost around 14.5psi
- 4th seemed to reach 15psi this was also verified on the Dyno where I was making 14.8 in 4th

im wondering if with my cam this is the PSI i should read cause i think a cam could lower psi. also I have 15%pulley and 2% crank. I was under the imression with a 15% and 2% id be over 15psi for sure.

Oh and I now know what needle bounce is cause i got it near 13-15psi but wasnt alot of occilation I could still see where the middle of the bouncing was. What causes that needle bounce?
i guess is because of the electrical throttle cause the boost to bounce, or it just maybe the ecu is control it. The HP number on the dyno was with stock ecu or tuned?
 
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Old Jun 3, 2007 | 08:09 PM
  #33  
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From: Hotlanta
Originally Posted by mozzarella
I'll bet you dyno at about 180 whp

why you say that,....i dyno'd 196whp untuned with basic bolt ons.
 
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Old Jun 3, 2007 | 08:57 PM
  #34  
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From: Ft Myers
He was pretty close. Also I was unaware that Alta has a light weight stock sized crank pulley and actually it was avail before the other 2%3%4% ones. And for those who dont know I bought this car used with its current mods so its been a bit of a quest to figure this puppy out. Soooo I may have the stock sized alta crank with 15%.

Well im guessing this thread has been beaten to death and has morphed away from the original subject for the most part. Plus thinking back the title of the subject was a little uncalled for. Can I change it?
 
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Old Jun 4, 2007 | 04:24 AM
  #35  
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I'm confused as I've responded to all your pms and answered all your questions. I had asked for some simple data and was awaiting your reply.
As for a piggy back like the SAFC, it works for Paul because he's drag racing and more than likely only concerned with full throttle, open loop operation. For closed loop operation which is everything else, the piggy back does not work on the Mini.
 
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Old Jun 4, 2007 | 07:52 AM
  #36  
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From: Hotlanta
Originally Posted by luckydoggarage
I'm confused as I've responded to all your pms and answered all your questions. I had asked for some simple data and was awaiting your reply.
As for a piggy back like the SAFC, it works for Paul because he's drag racing and more than likely only concerned with full throttle, open loop operation. For closed loop operation which is everything else, the piggy back does not work on the Mini.
So your saying the SAFC is useless for everyday driving?

cant you just turn it on when you wanna drag race though?
 
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