it was $245 i think he said when i asked? so i started looking for connections to drop it down a bit.

 

Call Classic MINI...

 

If you are certain your talking about a MINI metal head gasket ($65), you've been had BIG time...take it back...

 

There is the original thickness gasket alone available .65mm 11127508543, or depending how much has been milled from the head or whether you want static compression reduced some, a .3mm thicker gasket .95mm 11127508544. Then there is the kit with all the gaskets and O-rings that should be replaced when doing a head swap 11120147561. The kit is more economical ($200 is good) and convenient. Sorry, I can’t tell you what is included in the whole kit; I went the custom component route.

 

On that note, I wouldn't even bother putting the stock pulley back on. JMO.

BTW: I took the time to read the thread above. It makes for some pretty good reading! One of the better arguments I've read on NAM. Not that I enjoy arguments or anything...

 

i was under the assumption that you shouldn't just change the gasket, and other parts should go in hand (new studs as well). but i'll see if classic mini can confirm otherwise.

looking around...looks like the actual gasket in in the $70 range or so. are you guys saying that you don't need all the o-rings or studs to do this swap. 60k on the car right now.

 

The stock head bolts are one time use only, whether they are replaced with OEM bolts, or aftermarket bolts or studs, they must be replaced; the head gasket is also a must replace item. In my opinion the valve cover gasket should be replaced, I also replaced the grommets on the valve cover bolts and the spark plug tubes. The outer water pump O-ring should be replaced, but it’s not a bad idea to replace the inner O-ring as well. The intake & exhaust manifold gaskets should be replaced and if port work is performed they should be port-matched also. I also replaced the O-rings on the inspection bolts (10mm allen head plugs), and the cam position sensor. The supercharger intake duct gasket should be replaced, and if the supercharger output duct is removed, that gasket should be replaced. The exhaust manifold bolt threads should be at least cleaned (anti-seize applied before installation) but it is a good idea to replace these bolts if it’s a high mileage vehicle (60k qualifies). Look for seepage at the oil stick channel to block and replace this O-ring if needed and inspect the crank sensor on front of the block for oil seepage as well. Take a good look at the coolant thermostat gasket for tears also.

 

When I swapped to Webb head, only a new head gasket was used...bolts, valve cover gaskets stayed...no problems...

When the RMW head went on, we installed APR studs only because we anticipated higher rpm adjustment and higher hp uprating in the future...valve cover gasket was still good so it stayed again...

 

Since we have similar beliefs, it looks like the two of us are condemned to be bunkmates is hell for suggesting someone "defraud" the good Herrs and Fraulines at BMW/NA.

Next time all you ladies and gents of proper moraility catch a MiniUSA rep at the local track writing down VINs, after you give him a hug - you all can tell him to give you extra brownie points for being such a fine upstanding citizen.

I call top bunk!

 

Couldn't have said it better myself!

 

if you go through all of the work to replace the head and don't replace the one time use "stretch" head bolts you should seriously reconsider. It is cheap insurnace. there is nothing worse than having to do the job twice and all because you tried to save a couple of dollars.

 

LOl...I agree...I'm guilty for being ignorant but I didn't do the head job...The second time round, Jan provided the proper studs with the RMW head...

 

....so yeah, $200 is a decent price then for everything including new bolts?

anyone have a pdf of the workshop manual or anything? again, my main concern is getting in there and realizing i'm in needed of a special tool. happened a couple weeks ago with a audi head removal.

 

The Tritec is a Chrysler engine, I'm not aware of any special tools. A pulley tensioner tool is handy for taking the belt off, but almost any mechanic should have that or something that will work for that.

 

Still seems high...if they were APR bolts maybe...

 

Man, I needed that, thanks Ryan

OP: When I did my head I did much of the same as K-huevo. Head gasket, exhaust and intake mani gaskets. The valve cover gasket is an o-ring style and if on careful inspection it is not nicked or damaged it is okay to reuse. I did not mess with the other ones as all those parts were coming off the car. Oh! Exhaust mani bolts, I suggest replacing them with the MINI Madness ones. They are a bit of a pain to use, but will not work their way loose, and like APR head studs are re-usable if there are future changes or upgrades.

 

Finally picked up my car today. Paid 2k for the repair work. Thx to everyone who contributed to this thread. You guys helped me out a lot. NAMers are definately the best lot of car ethusiast on the net.

 

New problem today! I took my car to work and on the way home I WOT it for a little on the freeway. Took it up to 6.5k rpm in 1st and 2nd. When I got off the freeway the car smelled funny, like burnt coolant. So I pulled off to the side and sure enough, it was filled with smoke under the hood.

After letting it air out a little, the smoke faded and it seems like a bunch of coolant got forced out of the coolant tank. Anyone know how the cooling system is connected to the repairs that was just done? (cylinder head replacement, head gasket replacement)