Best Track HPDE for Mini
I love the back esses as I can go WOT once I come out of turn 1 and not brake until I hit the zone for the bus stop, which I enter between 85 and 90 (on R comps). The fastest I can get my R53 up to on the back straight is around 115. Slinger has more top end than I do, and he gets up to 120 or more.
I was hitting 115 down the back straight, but entering the bus stop at about 75. This was on all-season tires, mind (which has been taken care of - I picked up some track wheels yesterday).
My instructor had a GT3, and I'm pretty sure we hit 140 on the back straight.
My instructor had a GT3, and I'm pretty sure we hit 140 on the back straight.
There were only three Minis there last year, me, a chili red R53, and a copperish R56. None in my run group :(
The most I've ever gotten on a track was just above 115 on the back straight of Sebring. There are other Minis down here who've done Daytona events where you get up on the banking. I'm sure they got above 120mph.
^^^true words^^^
I cannot agree more. Track pads are a must, as is a higher temp brake fluid--either Super Blue or Motul 600 (less than $20).
I tried cross drilled rotors (DBAs), ignoring the manufacturer's warning. What a mistake. I overheated the brakes by the second session and had to come in and blow out the holes with compressed air. By the fourth session, I it sounded as if I dragging a rear tire. It was a short weekend.
I put a 19mm sway bar on my R53 early however, but nothing else for a long time.
Down here many clubs will not allow you to use a motorcycle helmet, so I'll take exception here. Make sure it is Snell 2005 or greater rated. While some people have open face helmets, I don't and I've still been hit in the eye by debris. Full face is the way to go. Also go to the store and try it on. Helmets come in different sizes. Buying online without knowing your size is not the way to go. Pay a store premium and get a good fit.
My Beginner advice to any begineer - forget all of the upgrades you read about here, except for brake pads for the front. No cross-drilled rotors (I made that mistake
).Suspension mods, wheels and tires can come later. Then if you're serious, engine mods. For pads, get real race pads; something for over 1000 deg F. I over heated a set a Hawk HPS my first day out in my first session.
[...]But if you want to do mods, start with a 19mm rear sway bar set on the mid setting or a 20mm on the softest setting (they are about the same).[...]
).Suspension mods, wheels and tires can come later. Then if you're serious, engine mods. For pads, get real race pads; something for over 1000 deg F. I over heated a set a Hawk HPS my first day out in my first session.[...]But if you want to do mods, start with a 19mm rear sway bar set on the mid setting or a 20mm on the softest setting (they are about the same).[...]
I cannot agree more. Track pads are a must, as is a higher temp brake fluid--either Super Blue or Motul 600 (less than $20).
I tried cross drilled rotors (DBAs), ignoring the manufacturer's warning. What a mistake. I overheated the brakes by the second session and had to come in and blow out the holes with compressed air. By the fourth session, I it sounded as if I dragging a rear tire. It was a short weekend.
I put a 19mm sway bar on my R53 early however, but nothing else for a long time.
Buy your helmet at a local motorcycle shop. Get a full face.
sBox - I should have qualified my statement that the helmet needs to be Snell rated to the requirements of what you are doing. Snell 2005 seems to be generally accepted around here. As far as I can tell this meets the standards of SCDA, SCCA and BMWCCA. Snell 2005 helmets can be had at a local bike shop (as was mine) and a reputable shop will help you to fit it. It is a moderately priced way to go. Also, I agree that it is best to go to a local shop and get it fitted. Beyond the Snell year rating, I seem to remember being told that the only difference between car and motorcycle helmets is that a car helmet has fire retardant which the motor cycle helmet does not have. I can see some places requiring a car helmet for that reason. I also heard that full face will keep your chin off the steering wheel if the occasion arises. Another reason for a full face.
More on the brake woos – the factory cross drilled rotors that I have did not play nice with the Carbotech XP10. The holes plugged up and brake material was dragged across the rotor building up lumps. While they continued to work, it was not comfortable at 90 mph before the Toe at WGI or any where else on that track
. I found out later that the pads developed hairline cracks on the surface which are disturbing to say the least. I was told by AutoXcooper that is another result of using the cross drilled rotors. So it is back to the stock rotors with the Carbos. Now the ATE rotors (with the funny oval-like slot) in the back worked really well with the Carbotech XP8. It seems like there is a lot of bad information about brakes out there ("if it is on a Ferrari, it must be good") and because of that, getting the brakes right is not easy.
Back to tracks – any more opinions about Calabogie? That is next on my list…
More on the brake woos – the factory cross drilled rotors that I have did not play nice with the Carbotech XP10. The holes plugged up and brake material was dragged across the rotor building up lumps. While they continued to work, it was not comfortable at 90 mph before the Toe at WGI or any where else on that track
. I found out later that the pads developed hairline cracks on the surface which are disturbing to say the least. I was told by AutoXcooper that is another result of using the cross drilled rotors. So it is back to the stock rotors with the Carbos. Now the ATE rotors (with the funny oval-like slot) in the back worked really well with the Carbotech XP8. It seems like there is a lot of bad information about brakes out there ("if it is on a Ferrari, it must be good") and because of that, getting the brakes right is not easy.Back to tracks – any more opinions about Calabogie? That is next on my list…
PM Redskunk (aka Zeke) on Calabogie. I think he just got back from there with Patroon BMWCCA. Also a number of MPG members went there last year for the three day.
On my list to try next year. Heard lots of good things about it.
On my list to try next year. Heard lots of good things about it.
Learn to drive, have fun and read Eddis07's comments.
Jamie and Pedro ran into the aero limit at around 135 at Daytona. Victor hits it at about 155.
Ok - Are these Minis? If so, How do you get 155 out of a Mini when they are speed limited at 149 for the JCW; 137 for the MCS. Also my guess is a little more Hp is needed. I'm new at this - any advice on how you get this out of an R56 S?
1. More power. This is the most common, but most expensive alternative. Drag is a function of speed squared. Much more power is required for a small increase.
2. Less weight. Again, not homerun, but generally more economical than adding power.
3. Reduce drag. Until recently, this wasn't a viable option unless well funded and committed. Group 4 Motorsports is currently developing functional aero aids. I'm not on their payroll, but I appreciate their efforts.
A combination of the above three is required to go fast. This is true for any car.
Greg
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