Wanting a Clean Mini and Sanity!!
Wanting a Clean Mini and Sanity!!
I have been reading this forum religiously to find the best way to clean my mini with the best products. The result...I will have to check myself into a mental asylum very soon!
I am not joking.
So here's my dilemma. I believed myself to be doing a good job with cleaning my constantly dirty baby. When I wash, I use Meguiars gold Shampoo first on my wheels and tires, then the rest of the car. Then I dry with waffle weave towels (I think from Autopia). Then I detail the inside and outside with Vinyl Shine by Wizard’s using one of those round foam pads. Of course, I also vacumm when needed. I use the Wizard’s mist n shine with their recommended detail cloth throughout the week and after I wash sometimes .
I have yet to wax, but I am going to buy Zymol’s mini wax. Since I don’t want to worry about avoiding the trim.
However, here is where my I begin losing my sanity. I am reading about polishing and wheel cleaners and all numerous other things I don’t do!! Am I am bad mom!??!!
1) Would it be wise to use the Klasse instead of the meguiars Shamoo?
2) Does my quick detailer (which I assume is the mist n shine) need to “match” my wax maker?
3) What would be best for cleaning my wheels on a daily basis? I have VERY dirty wheels from excessive brake dust. And yes, I know I should look into the green brake pads.
I am a psychologist…so no worries about me going off the deep end. At least not tonight. However, any constructive information would be appreciated!
Cheers!
Elizabeth
I am not joking.So here's my dilemma. I believed myself to be doing a good job with cleaning my constantly dirty baby. When I wash, I use Meguiars gold Shampoo first on my wheels and tires, then the rest of the car. Then I dry with waffle weave towels (I think from Autopia). Then I detail the inside and outside with Vinyl Shine by Wizard’s using one of those round foam pads. Of course, I also vacumm when needed. I use the Wizard’s mist n shine with their recommended detail cloth throughout the week and after I wash sometimes .
I have yet to wax, but I am going to buy Zymol’s mini wax. Since I don’t want to worry about avoiding the trim.
However, here is where my I begin losing my sanity. I am reading about polishing and wheel cleaners and all numerous other things I don’t do!! Am I am bad mom!??!!
1) Would it be wise to use the Klasse instead of the meguiars Shamoo?
2) Does my quick detailer (which I assume is the mist n shine) need to “match” my wax maker?
3) What would be best for cleaning my wheels on a daily basis? I have VERY dirty wheels from excessive brake dust. And yes, I know I should look into the green brake pads.
I am a psychologist…so no worries about me going off the deep end. At least not tonight. However, any constructive information would be appreciated!
Cheers!
Elizabeth
Originally Posted by ep's fitz
I have been reading this forum religiously to find the best way to clean my mini with the best products. The result...I will have to check myself into a mental asylum very soon!
I am not joking.
So here's my dilemma. I believed myself to be doing a good job with cleaning my constantly dirty baby. When I wash, I use Meguiars gold Shampoo first on my wheels and tires, then the rest of the car. Then I dry with waffle weave towels (I think from Autopia). Then I detail the inside and outside with Vinyl Shine by Wizard’s using one of those round foam pads. Of course, I also vacumm when needed. I use the Wizard’s mist n shine with their recommended detail cloth throughout the week and after I wash sometimes .
I have yet to wax, but I am going to buy Zymol’s mini wax. Since I don’t want to worry about avoiding the trim.
However, here is where my I begin losing my sanity. I am reading about polishing and wheel cleaners and all numerous other things I don’t do!! Am I am bad mom!??!!
1) Would it be wise to use the Klasse instead of the meguiars Shamoo?
2) Does my quick detailer (which I assume is the mist n shine) need to “match” my wax maker?
3) What would be best for cleaning my wheels on a daily basis? I have VERY dirty wheels from excessive brake dust. And yes, I know I should look into the green brake pads.
I am a psychologist…so no worries about me going off the deep end. At least not tonight. However, any constructive information would be appreciated!
Cheers!
Elizabeth
I am not joking.So here's my dilemma. I believed myself to be doing a good job with cleaning my constantly dirty baby. When I wash, I use Meguiars gold Shampoo first on my wheels and tires, then the rest of the car. Then I dry with waffle weave towels (I think from Autopia). Then I detail the inside and outside with Vinyl Shine by Wizard’s using one of those round foam pads. Of course, I also vacumm when needed. I use the Wizard’s mist n shine with their recommended detail cloth throughout the week and after I wash sometimes .
I have yet to wax, but I am going to buy Zymol’s mini wax. Since I don’t want to worry about avoiding the trim.
However, here is where my I begin losing my sanity. I am reading about polishing and wheel cleaners and all numerous other things I don’t do!! Am I am bad mom!??!!
1) Would it be wise to use the Klasse instead of the meguiars Shamoo?
2) Does my quick detailer (which I assume is the mist n shine) need to “match” my wax maker?
3) What would be best for cleaning my wheels on a daily basis? I have VERY dirty wheels from excessive brake dust. And yes, I know I should look into the green brake pads.
I am a psychologist…so no worries about me going off the deep end. At least not tonight. However, any constructive information would be appreciated!
Cheers!
Elizabeth
otherwise you rub all that grime on your car and possibly scratch it.
heavy medications works for most
Originally Posted by El Diablito Rojo-N20Mini
I would save the wheels and tires for last... since they are the dirtiest ...
otherwise you rub all that grime on your car and possibly scratch it.
heavy medications works for most
otherwise you rub all that grime on your car and possibly scratch it.
heavy medications works for most
I find I get water spots if I do the wheels last.
Don't worry, the heavy medications are already in play!
ep
Originally Posted by ep's fitz
What if I have separate chenille mitts for the wheels and the car? Would that work?
I find I get water spots if I do the wheels last.
Don't worry, the heavy medications are already in play!
ep
I find I get water spots if I do the wheels last.
Don't worry, the heavy medications are already in play!
ep

it all depends if you use the same bucket.... I try to wash the car in the shade it cuts down the spots and I also keep wetting the car down until I am ready to shammy it. The micro fiber towels are the best
Originally Posted by El Diablito Rojo-N20Mini
LOL.... on the meds...
it all depends if you use the same bucket.... I try to wash the car in the shade it cuts down the spots and I also keep wetting the car down until I am ready to shammy it. The micro fiber towels are the best
it all depends if you use the same bucket.... I try to wash the car in the shade it cuts down the spots and I also keep wetting the car down until I am ready to shammy it. The micro fiber towels are the best

So, you think I should dump my bucket of soapy H2O, then refill to do the car? That is easily done!
Originally Posted by ep's fitz
I am in SD...Meaning--No shade due to lack to of trees. I do, however, have a light post near my house! 
So, you think I should dump my bucket of soapy H2O, then refill to do the car? That is easily done!

So, you think I should dump my bucket of soapy H2O, then refill to do the car? That is easily done!
Originally Posted by El Diablito Rojo-N20Mini
I would, especially if your wheels are dirty... imagine all of those brake particles rubbing across your paint job

Trending Topics
Congratulations on your efforts to take care of your baby! I also tend to do the tires/wheels last. Using the leftover shampoo from your bodywork on the wheels is pretty safe. (But doing it the opposite-wheels first risks getting some wheel grit on the paint-not good.)
Please note, I constantly rinse my mitt with water to flush out debris. I do this before each dip into the soapy bucket for new suds. I have a hose with running water nearby. You may not have this option in drought-ridden California, so I suggest you utilize a second rinse bucket. Use this bucket to shake out the mitt before dipping back into the suds. It sounds silly at first, but you will be amazed at what comes off these mitts. You do not want to constantly want to re-contaminate the mitt and rub debris onto the paint. This is the #1 cause of scratches and swirls. They are self-inflicted.
A cool accessory you may consider is a "grit guard". It's a screen that fits into the bottom of the bucket that allows debris to fall through and settle and then it keeps it away from your mitt at the top.
Keep your wheel and body/paint towels seperate. I don't use a mitt for my wheels. I use a soft, but cheap open cell sponge. Just like something you would get at the grocery store. It's easier to handle in and around the wheels and is easy to clean. I use a foam ended bottle brush to get inside the wheels and around the brakes. Yes, you need to get the EBC green brake pads for the front brakes. Makes a 100% difference. It will change your lifestyle!
1. Now, about the wax. Is your heart set of Zymol? Why did you choose that? Just curious. How often do you intend to re-wax? What are your goals for durability?
2. Meguiars Gold Class shampoo is a good shampoo. No reason to change at this point unless you change your product selection radically.
3. Mist n Shine is a good QD. Yes, they should work in tandem with the wax. Again, we need to know what wax you settle on.
4. Use the least invasive cleaner possible. If you clean the wheels often enough, then shampoo will do the trick. If you have difficulty removing the residue then opt for a wheel cleaner that is acid free. 1Z wheel cleaner is gentle stuff and just a couple squirts goes a long way. It will not hurt painted or clearcoated wheels.
5. Also, and I don't want to push you over the edge, but if you wax your wheels, both inside and out, it will make them much easier to clean. The wax will repel the brake dust and fill the pores in the wheel castings. You do, however, need to use a heat resistant wax. This needs to be a polymer like Klasse. (Which, by the way, I would possibly suggest for your paint as well. But that's another discussion if your interested. See #1)
Hope this helps.
That's all for this session. See you next week.
Please note, I constantly rinse my mitt with water to flush out debris. I do this before each dip into the soapy bucket for new suds. I have a hose with running water nearby. You may not have this option in drought-ridden California, so I suggest you utilize a second rinse bucket. Use this bucket to shake out the mitt before dipping back into the suds. It sounds silly at first, but you will be amazed at what comes off these mitts. You do not want to constantly want to re-contaminate the mitt and rub debris onto the paint. This is the #1 cause of scratches and swirls. They are self-inflicted.
A cool accessory you may consider is a "grit guard". It's a screen that fits into the bottom of the bucket that allows debris to fall through and settle and then it keeps it away from your mitt at the top.
Keep your wheel and body/paint towels seperate. I don't use a mitt for my wheels. I use a soft, but cheap open cell sponge. Just like something you would get at the grocery store. It's easier to handle in and around the wheels and is easy to clean. I use a foam ended bottle brush to get inside the wheels and around the brakes. Yes, you need to get the EBC green brake pads for the front brakes. Makes a 100% difference. It will change your lifestyle!
1. Now, about the wax. Is your heart set of Zymol? Why did you choose that? Just curious. How often do you intend to re-wax? What are your goals for durability?
2. Meguiars Gold Class shampoo is a good shampoo. No reason to change at this point unless you change your product selection radically.
3. Mist n Shine is a good QD. Yes, they should work in tandem with the wax. Again, we need to know what wax you settle on.
4. Use the least invasive cleaner possible. If you clean the wheels often enough, then shampoo will do the trick. If you have difficulty removing the residue then opt for a wheel cleaner that is acid free. 1Z wheel cleaner is gentle stuff and just a couple squirts goes a long way. It will not hurt painted or clearcoated wheels.
5. Also, and I don't want to push you over the edge, but if you wax your wheels, both inside and out, it will make them much easier to clean. The wax will repel the brake dust and fill the pores in the wheel castings. You do, however, need to use a heat resistant wax. This needs to be a polymer like Klasse. (Which, by the way, I would possibly suggest for your paint as well. But that's another discussion if your interested. See #1)
Hope this helps.
That's all for this session. See you next week.
Originally Posted by BradB
Congratulations on your efforts to take care of your baby! I also tend to do the tires/wheels last. Using the leftover shampoo from your bodywork on the wheels is pretty safe. (But doing it the opposite-wheels first risks getting some wheel grit on the paint-not good.)
Please note, I constantly rinse my mitt with water to flush out debris. I do this before each dip into the soapy bucket for new suds. I have a hose with running water nearby. You may not have this option in drought-ridden California, so I suggest you utilize a second rinse bucket. Use this bucket to shake out the mitt before dipping back into the suds. It sounds silly at first, but you will be amazed at what comes off these mitts. You do not want to constantly want to re-contaminate the mitt and rub debris onto the paint. This is the #1 cause of scratches and swirls. They are self-inflicted.
A cool accessory you may consider is a "grit guard". It's a screen that fits into the bottom of the bucket that allows debris to fall through and settle and then it keeps it away from your mitt at the top.
Keep your wheel and body/paint towels seperate. I don't use a mitt for my wheels. I use a soft, but cheap open cell sponge. Just like something you would get at the grocery store. It's easier to handle in and around the wheels and is easy to clean. I use a foam ended bottle brush to get inside the wheels and around the brakes. Yes, you need to get the EBC green brake pads for the front brakes. Makes a 100% difference. It will change your lifestyle!
1. Now, about the wax. Is your heart set of Zymol? Why did you choose that? Just curious. How often do you intend to re-wax? What are your goals for durability?
2. Meguiars Gold Class shampoo is a good shampoo. No reason to change at this point unless you change your product selection radically.
3. Mist n Shine is a good QD. Yes, they should work in tandem with the wax. Again, we need to know what wax you settle on.
4. Use the least invasive cleaner possible. If you clean the wheels often enough, then shampoo will do the trick. If you have difficulty removing the residue then opt for a wheel cleaner that is acid free. 1Z wheel cleaner is gentle stuff and just a couple squirts goes a long way. It will not hurt painted or clearcoated wheels.
5. Also, and I don't want to push you over the edge, but if you wax your wheels, both inside and out, it will make them much easier to clean. The wax will repel the brake dust and fill the pores in the wheel castings. You do, however, need to use a heat resistant wax. This needs to be a polymer like Klasse. (Which, by the way, I would possibly suggest for your paint as well. But that's another discussion if your interested. See #1)
Hope this helps.
That's all for this session. See you next week.
Please note, I constantly rinse my mitt with water to flush out debris. I do this before each dip into the soapy bucket for new suds. I have a hose with running water nearby. You may not have this option in drought-ridden California, so I suggest you utilize a second rinse bucket. Use this bucket to shake out the mitt before dipping back into the suds. It sounds silly at first, but you will be amazed at what comes off these mitts. You do not want to constantly want to re-contaminate the mitt and rub debris onto the paint. This is the #1 cause of scratches and swirls. They are self-inflicted.
A cool accessory you may consider is a "grit guard". It's a screen that fits into the bottom of the bucket that allows debris to fall through and settle and then it keeps it away from your mitt at the top.
Keep your wheel and body/paint towels seperate. I don't use a mitt for my wheels. I use a soft, but cheap open cell sponge. Just like something you would get at the grocery store. It's easier to handle in and around the wheels and is easy to clean. I use a foam ended bottle brush to get inside the wheels and around the brakes. Yes, you need to get the EBC green brake pads for the front brakes. Makes a 100% difference. It will change your lifestyle!
1. Now, about the wax. Is your heart set of Zymol? Why did you choose that? Just curious. How often do you intend to re-wax? What are your goals for durability?
2. Meguiars Gold Class shampoo is a good shampoo. No reason to change at this point unless you change your product selection radically.
3. Mist n Shine is a good QD. Yes, they should work in tandem with the wax. Again, we need to know what wax you settle on.
4. Use the least invasive cleaner possible. If you clean the wheels often enough, then shampoo will do the trick. If you have difficulty removing the residue then opt for a wheel cleaner that is acid free. 1Z wheel cleaner is gentle stuff and just a couple squirts goes a long way. It will not hurt painted or clearcoated wheels.
5. Also, and I don't want to push you over the edge, but if you wax your wheels, both inside and out, it will make them much easier to clean. The wax will repel the brake dust and fill the pores in the wheel castings. You do, however, need to use a heat resistant wax. This needs to be a polymer like Klasse. (Which, by the way, I would possibly suggest for your paint as well. But that's another discussion if your interested. See #1)
Hope this helps.
That's all for this session. See you next week.

WAX: I was going to choose Zymol because I "heard" that I don't have to worry about it getting on the trim. The bain of my recent existence has been using peanut oil to get the white off the trim when I husband waxed it last time...before I knew I would drive myself crazy with getting 2 million different products. With this in mind, I have not bought ANY wax yet, because of these dilemmas. I don't particulary want to wax alot, since waxing frightens the hell out of me, so whatever will be painless and infrequent, yet durable (Does this exist???) would be best for me.
WHEEL CLEANER: I will get 1Z and try that out. Waaashoo, I like it when there is a straight-foward solution! :smile:
WAXING WHEELS: Can I wax the wheels with what I wax the rest of the car with?
KLASSE: Is Klasse a wax? I thought it was a shampoo and polisher? Does Klasse replace waxing? If I use Klasse, what QD should I use?? Do I use my Meguiars shampoo, then Klasse?
AAAHHH!! You are witnessing insanity occurring at this moment. Excuse me, I must go take my meds.
Please continue with this thread - I'm also about ready to go around the bend...unfortunately I have no meds to stabilize my condition.
Elizabeth - I have no shade either, unless you count the saguaro in my neighbors yard...
Elizabeth - I have no shade either, unless you count the saguaro in my neighbors yard...
All right, guys, let me try to lend BradB a hand.
We both frequent Autopia.org, an incredible resource frequented by some of the most diehard detailers around.
Fortunately, weekend warriors and first-timers are all around as well, so you can get lots of info by checking out their forums.
Let me address your newest questions:
WAX: Zymol isn't the only wax available that is non-staining. I think what BradB was getting at without out-right saying is that Zymol isn't as durable as some other non-staining waxes or sealants (sealants are polymer "waxes", great shine, with emphasis on durability). With Zymol, expect reasonably to wax every 3 weeks to a month with regular washing. With sealants (Zaino, KLASSE, etc.), you can get by without waxing for up to 6 months!
WHEEL CLEANERS: Absolutely keep on top of those wheels. My S-lites are pitted, badly, with black crud that I can't remove because I let it go too long without washing :(
WAXING WHEELS: (see above) Because our wheels are clear-coated, you can use any car wax formulated for clear coats on your wheels (which is most of them, fortunately)! Simple! This is the SINGLE best thing you can do to keep your wheels clean and make it easier to clean them.
KLASSE: (see above) Klasse All-In-One (AIO) is an acrylic sealant wax, with cleaners built-in. Don't rely on the cleaners, just understand that after washing, using AIO polishes a tiny bit as it goes on, and then buffs off like wax. You can use Klasse Sealant Glaze (SG) afterward for your gorgeous wax top coat and keep using this as your regular wax. Note that using AIO after you have SG on the car will just polish off all your wax coats. Remember, AIO = polish/wax, SG = normal wax coat. You can use Sonus Acrylic detailing spray as your quick detailer, as it's formulated to complement the Klasse line.
Note that Zaino sealants work in much the same way, so you might need to decide what you like best.
I get the impression that you're looking for a nice-looking, easy-to-maintain cleanliness/shine, and aren't looking to win concours events with your detailing regimen. Zymol and other traditional carnauba waxes are for people who want the ultimate depth and shine, at the expense of frequent maintenance and care.
Sealants are far better for those who are short on time, want great shine that'll turn heads, but aren't keen on waxing every 3 weeks.
I hope this helps!
-Troy
We both frequent Autopia.org, an incredible resource frequented by some of the most diehard detailers around.
Fortunately, weekend warriors and first-timers are all around as well, so you can get lots of info by checking out their forums.
Let me address your newest questions:
WAX: Zymol isn't the only wax available that is non-staining. I think what BradB was getting at without out-right saying is that Zymol isn't as durable as some other non-staining waxes or sealants (sealants are polymer "waxes", great shine, with emphasis on durability). With Zymol, expect reasonably to wax every 3 weeks to a month with regular washing. With sealants (Zaino, KLASSE, etc.), you can get by without waxing for up to 6 months!
WHEEL CLEANERS: Absolutely keep on top of those wheels. My S-lites are pitted, badly, with black crud that I can't remove because I let it go too long without washing :(
WAXING WHEELS: (see above) Because our wheels are clear-coated, you can use any car wax formulated for clear coats on your wheels (which is most of them, fortunately)! Simple! This is the SINGLE best thing you can do to keep your wheels clean and make it easier to clean them.
KLASSE: (see above) Klasse All-In-One (AIO) is an acrylic sealant wax, with cleaners built-in. Don't rely on the cleaners, just understand that after washing, using AIO polishes a tiny bit as it goes on, and then buffs off like wax. You can use Klasse Sealant Glaze (SG) afterward for your gorgeous wax top coat and keep using this as your regular wax. Note that using AIO after you have SG on the car will just polish off all your wax coats. Remember, AIO = polish/wax, SG = normal wax coat. You can use Sonus Acrylic detailing spray as your quick detailer, as it's formulated to complement the Klasse line.
Note that Zaino sealants work in much the same way, so you might need to decide what you like best.
I get the impression that you're looking for a nice-looking, easy-to-maintain cleanliness/shine, and aren't looking to win concours events with your detailing regimen. Zymol and other traditional carnauba waxes are for people who want the ultimate depth and shine, at the expense of frequent maintenance and care.
Sealants are far better for those who are short on time, want great shine that'll turn heads, but aren't keen on waxing every 3 weeks.
I hope this helps!
-Troy
To continue with the saga...
Yea, what Troy said....
If I were in your situation, looking for a simple solution and ease of maintenaince, then I would choose a more durable wax. One that will last for month. Not one that will start degrading in weeks. Klasse All In One (AIO) is a Polymer based sealant that will not only work great on your paint but is heat resistant and will work great on your wheels as well. I choose AIO because it has mild solvents and mechanical abrasives in it and will prep your paint surface as well helping clean it and smooth the surface.
As Troy mentioned, you can follow up AIO with it's mate, Klasse Sealant Glaze, (SG) SG has less abrasives in it and less solvents and is more of a topcoat product for use as a finisher. It will add a bit more shiny/plasticy pop to the finish for the discerning eye. Your choice. It's pure aesthetics. AIO adds all the actual protection you need for several months.
An extra step not mentioned yet, but one you may have heard of, is claying. Claying is a step I would advise prior to waxing with anything. It is fast, easy and makes a huge difference in the feel of any wax job. To skip this step is like baking cookies without sugar. Get some of this!
You can still use the Meguiars shampoo.
You can still use your Wizards QD. I see no compelling reason to change. I have used it a lot and like it. Good lubricity and slickness.
Be sure you have quality microfiber polishing and waffleweave drying towels!
Did I miss anything?
Yea, what Troy said....
If I were in your situation, looking for a simple solution and ease of maintenaince, then I would choose a more durable wax. One that will last for month. Not one that will start degrading in weeks. Klasse All In One (AIO) is a Polymer based sealant that will not only work great on your paint but is heat resistant and will work great on your wheels as well. I choose AIO because it has mild solvents and mechanical abrasives in it and will prep your paint surface as well helping clean it and smooth the surface.
As Troy mentioned, you can follow up AIO with it's mate, Klasse Sealant Glaze, (SG) SG has less abrasives in it and less solvents and is more of a topcoat product for use as a finisher. It will add a bit more shiny/plasticy pop to the finish for the discerning eye. Your choice. It's pure aesthetics. AIO adds all the actual protection you need for several months.
An extra step not mentioned yet, but one you may have heard of, is claying. Claying is a step I would advise prior to waxing with anything. It is fast, easy and makes a huge difference in the feel of any wax job. To skip this step is like baking cookies without sugar. Get some of this!
You can still use the Meguiars shampoo.
You can still use your Wizards QD. I see no compelling reason to change. I have used it a lot and like it. Good lubricity and slickness.
Be sure you have quality microfiber polishing and waffleweave drying towels!
Did I miss anything?
Ok, my blood pressure levels are beginning to come down! Hurray! 
So, let me get this straight Brad. I should wash with Meguiars as I have been, then use the Klasse (AIO). Occassionally it would be wise to use the Klasse (SG). But before I do either of these I should clay (I do happen to have a Mother's clay bar, although, I haven't used it). And I can use the Klasse (AIO) on my wheels. This sounds easy enough. And I only have to use the Klasse (AIO) every few months??
Also, how do I do apply the Klasse AIO? Is that what the polishing towels are for?
BTW, I do have the purple waffle weave towels for drying.
Can you believe it?? I am down to only 3 questions!!!

So, let me get this straight Brad. I should wash with Meguiars as I have been, then use the Klasse (AIO). Occassionally it would be wise to use the Klasse (SG). But before I do either of these I should clay (I do happen to have a Mother's clay bar, although, I haven't used it). And I can use the Klasse (AIO) on my wheels. This sounds easy enough. And I only have to use the Klasse (AIO) every few months??
Also, how do I do apply the Klasse AIO? Is that what the polishing towels are for?
BTW, I do have the purple waffle weave towels for drying.
Can you believe it?? I am down to only 3 questions!!!
A great place to start learning serious car-care is here:
www.autopia-carcare.com (mentioned above). They sell a wide variety of products but their how-to section is great. I'll give a big 'ditto' to what BradB and the poster above said. Here's my plan:
1. Claybar - used to strip off surface contaminants
2. Paint Polish - a very slightly abrasive product that is used to prepare paint for sealing. Not everyone does this and you won't do any dammage if you don't... I'm just a bit AR about it. Klasse All-In-One has solvents and a bit of abrasive in it, so it may well replace this just fine.
3. Sealant - Klasse or Zaino. I love Zaino, but everyone has their own favorite. Some say that Klasse is simpler. Maybe just a bit... I love the other Zaino products so much (leather cleaner, leather conditioner and their detailing spray Z6) that I'm already going to order from them... might as well get their sealant as well.
4. Wax - you don't have to wax as well as seal... the wax adds a bit of depth to the color in my opinion. This is just me being AR again. The sealant will give you all of the shine and protection you need. The wax (I use P21S, a pure carnuba) is an aesthetic prefereance only.
5. Wash - Use a soap made for cars... not dishwashing liquid, unless for a specific reason like a pre-sealant application wash. Anything will do in my book, as long as it is specifically made for cars. Buy a gallon of something at Target/Wallmart and you will be fine.
6. Detailing - I use the Oxo carduster mid-week and touch up with Z6 (Zaino detailing spray). Go ahead and match your detailing spray to your wax or sealant... sealants like one type of spray for max duration and shine. Waxes like a slightly different formulation for best duration and shine.
7. Leather/vinyl/rubber protection. I use the Zaino vinyl treatment on tires and the interior. No Armor All. Just use a dressing with UV protectants. Keep your leather clean (to reduce wear) and conditioned to prolong its life. The Zaino leather conditioner smells SOOOOOO good (like walking into a Coach store).
www.autopia-carcare.com (mentioned above). They sell a wide variety of products but their how-to section is great. I'll give a big 'ditto' to what BradB and the poster above said. Here's my plan:
1. Claybar - used to strip off surface contaminants
2. Paint Polish - a very slightly abrasive product that is used to prepare paint for sealing. Not everyone does this and you won't do any dammage if you don't... I'm just a bit AR about it. Klasse All-In-One has solvents and a bit of abrasive in it, so it may well replace this just fine.
3. Sealant - Klasse or Zaino. I love Zaino, but everyone has their own favorite. Some say that Klasse is simpler. Maybe just a bit... I love the other Zaino products so much (leather cleaner, leather conditioner and their detailing spray Z6) that I'm already going to order from them... might as well get their sealant as well.
4. Wax - you don't have to wax as well as seal... the wax adds a bit of depth to the color in my opinion. This is just me being AR again. The sealant will give you all of the shine and protection you need. The wax (I use P21S, a pure carnuba) is an aesthetic prefereance only.
5. Wash - Use a soap made for cars... not dishwashing liquid, unless for a specific reason like a pre-sealant application wash. Anything will do in my book, as long as it is specifically made for cars. Buy a gallon of something at Target/Wallmart and you will be fine.
6. Detailing - I use the Oxo carduster mid-week and touch up with Z6 (Zaino detailing spray). Go ahead and match your detailing spray to your wax or sealant... sealants like one type of spray for max duration and shine. Waxes like a slightly different formulation for best duration and shine.
7. Leather/vinyl/rubber protection. I use the Zaino vinyl treatment on tires and the interior. No Armor All. Just use a dressing with UV protectants. Keep your leather clean (to reduce wear) and conditioned to prolong its life. The Zaino leather conditioner smells SOOOOOO good (like walking into a Coach store).
Wow. We just cross-posted.
Before applying the Klasse, wash your car with Dawn dishwashing liquid. It will strip away any remaining wax on the car and give you a better bond between paint and Klasse.
Here's my method:
1. Wash car with a big squirt of dawn in a few gallons of water.
2. Rinse
3. Use Dawn water left in wash bucket as lubrication for clay bar (slop some of it on the car and clay away.
4. Wash again with fresh bucket of water and Dawn to get rid of clay particles
5. Rinse
6. Dry and Klasse treat at will.
The whole wash/clay/wash thing should take you no more than 2 hours with a MINI (probably closer to 1 hour), and you will be ready and set to seal.
Before applying the Klasse, wash your car with Dawn dishwashing liquid. It will strip away any remaining wax on the car and give you a better bond between paint and Klasse.
Here's my method:
1. Wash car with a big squirt of dawn in a few gallons of water.
2. Rinse
3. Use Dawn water left in wash bucket as lubrication for clay bar (slop some of it on the car and clay away.
4. Wash again with fresh bucket of water and Dawn to get rid of clay particles
5. Rinse
6. Dry and Klasse treat at will.
The whole wash/clay/wash thing should take you no more than 2 hours with a MINI (probably closer to 1 hour), and you will be ready and set to seal.
Originally Posted by agranger
Wow. We just cross-posted.
Before applying the Klasse, wash your car with Dawn dishwashing liquid. It will strip away any remaining wax on the car and give you a better bond between paint and Klasse.
Here's my method:
1. Wash car with a big squirt of dawn in a few gallons of water.
2. Rinse
3. Use Dawn water left in wash bucket as lubrication for clay bar (slop some of it on the car and clay away.
4. Wash again with fresh bucket of water and Dawn to get rid of clay particles
5. Rinse
6. Dry and Klasse treat at will.
The whole wash/clay/wash thing should take you no more than 2 hours with a MINI (probably closer to 1 hour), and you will be ready and set to seal.
Before applying the Klasse, wash your car with Dawn dishwashing liquid. It will strip away any remaining wax on the car and give you a better bond between paint and Klasse.
Here's my method:
1. Wash car with a big squirt of dawn in a few gallons of water.
2. Rinse
3. Use Dawn water left in wash bucket as lubrication for clay bar (slop some of it on the car and clay away.
4. Wash again with fresh bucket of water and Dawn to get rid of clay particles
5. Rinse
6. Dry and Klasse treat at will.
The whole wash/clay/wash thing should take you no more than 2 hours with a MINI (probably closer to 1 hour), and you will be ready and set to seal.
How often do I have to do the above? When I wash weekly, I can use my normal car shampoo right?
Originally Posted by ep's fitz
Ok, my blood pressure levels are beginning to come down! Hurray! 
So, let me get this straight Brad. I should wash with Meguiars as I have been, then use the Klasse (AIO). Occassionally it would be wise to use the Klasse (SG). But before I do either of these I should clay (I do happen to have a Mother's clay bar, although, I haven't used it). And I can use the Klasse (AIO) on my wheels. This sounds easy enough. And I only have to use the Klasse (AIO) every few months??
Also, how do I do apply the Klasse AIO? Is that what the polishing towels are for?
BTW, I do have the purple waffle weave towels for drying.
Can you believe it?? I am down to only 3 questions!!!

So, let me get this straight Brad. I should wash with Meguiars as I have been, then use the Klasse (AIO). Occassionally it would be wise to use the Klasse (SG). But before I do either of these I should clay (I do happen to have a Mother's clay bar, although, I haven't used it). And I can use the Klasse (AIO) on my wheels. This sounds easy enough. And I only have to use the Klasse (AIO) every few months??
Also, how do I do apply the Klasse AIO? Is that what the polishing towels are for?
BTW, I do have the purple waffle weave towels for drying.
Can you believe it?? I am down to only 3 questions!!!

2. You don't even occassionally have to use the SG. Do the process all at once.
a. strip with Dawn. Just wash car as normal using Dawn. Rinse well.
b. clay with mothers. Use meguiars shampoo as lubricant
c. apply AIO to paint and wheels.* Yes, it will last months.
d. apply SG to paint and wheels.* It will last months, too.
e. maintain with QD between and after washes. Use microfiber towel.
f. wash with meguiars shampoo. Use a good mitt.
3. Apply the Klasse with a foam applicator. Remove residue with microfiber polishing towel.
*To ease the removal of AIO and SG polish residue spritz a little QD on the surface when you polish it off. Turn towel frequently.
Thank you!!!!
I have placed my order, and eagerly awaiting my package. I feel so much more organized!
Thanks to everyone who offered suggestions! I really appreciate it!
Will let you know how it all works out!!!
Elizabeth
Thanks to everyone who offered suggestions! I really appreciate it!
Will let you know how it all works out!!!
Elizabeth
On sealant frequency:
My wife's car gets clayed and sealed (Zaino) once a year in the Spring. I put on an occassional (2-3 months) coat of p21s carnuba wax for a wetter look shine. She has a dark metalic blue finish that does incredible things with the wax and Zaino. I only seal it once a year because it is a light-use daily driver (~10 miles a day) that is kept in a garage, both at home and at work. I also live in north Texas, so I get a lot of sun but very little snow/ice and don't have road salt or salt air to contend with
For my car, I seal twice a year (Spring and Fall) because it is in the garage at home but sits out in the sun/rain while I'm at work. Mine is a lighter color and the extra wax effect isn't as good. I generally just use the sealant (Zaino) and skip the wax on that one.
How to know if you need to wax/seal again: If the beads forming on a flat surface (roof) are larger than a nickle.
How to tell if you need to clay and/or polish again: Put your hand in a plastic shopping bag (or ziplock). Rub your hand over a freshly washed body panel. If you feel bumps or grittiness, it's time to clay again.
Good luck!
My wife's car gets clayed and sealed (Zaino) once a year in the Spring. I put on an occassional (2-3 months) coat of p21s carnuba wax for a wetter look shine. She has a dark metalic blue finish that does incredible things with the wax and Zaino. I only seal it once a year because it is a light-use daily driver (~10 miles a day) that is kept in a garage, both at home and at work. I also live in north Texas, so I get a lot of sun but very little snow/ice and don't have road salt or salt air to contend with
For my car, I seal twice a year (Spring and Fall) because it is in the garage at home but sits out in the sun/rain while I'm at work. Mine is a lighter color and the extra wax effect isn't as good. I generally just use the sealant (Zaino) and skip the wax on that one.
How to know if you need to wax/seal again: If the beads forming on a flat surface (roof) are larger than a nickle.
How to tell if you need to clay and/or polish again: Put your hand in a plastic shopping bag (or ziplock). Rub your hand over a freshly washed body panel. If you feel bumps or grittiness, it's time to clay again.
Good luck!
Just what I needed to see!!
Wow!
Great info all in one place with step-by-step walkthroughs!!! Just what I needed to get me started.
And to top it off, just my situation too - I know i'm not going to spend a lot of time on this on a regular basis, so this detailed a good method to balance time and rewards!
Thanks for a great guide!
Great info all in one place with step-by-step walkthroughs!!! Just what I needed to get me started.And to top it off, just my situation too - I know i'm not going to spend a lot of time on this on a regular basis, so this detailed a good method to balance time and rewards!
Thanks for a great guide!
Well, it really helped me too! Glad my craziness could be of use to others as well.
I just got my stuff today, and tomorrow's the big "I'm gonna go for it!" day! Wish me luck...better yet, wish my car luck!
I just got my stuff today, and tomorrow's the big "I'm gonna go for it!" day! Wish me luck...better yet, wish my car luck!
Dawn....clay bar....1Z wheel cleaner....Zaino....are all things I have learned to use on my wheels to varying degrees from this forum. I also apply Cragar Brake Dust Barrier to freshly cleaned wheels every couple of weeks or so. However, the very best thing you can do for cutting down the accumulation of brake dust is to use Greenstuff brake pads.
Originally Posted by Herby74
Dawn....clay bar....1Z wheel cleaner....Zaino....are all things I have learned to use on my wheels to varying degrees from this forum. I also apply Cragar Brake Dust Barrier to freshly cleaned wheels every couple of weeks or so. However, the very best thing you can do for cutting down the accumulation of brake dust is to use Greenstuff brake pads. 

BTW, I dawned, clayed, shampooed, AIOed, and SGed yesterday. It took a long time (and with 2 people) but Fitz looks AWESOME! Not sure I really liked the clay bar. It kept falling apart while I was using it making it difficult for me to know which side was the "dirty side." Other that that, I am pleased with all my products.

Also, I am OCD about my wheels, and I could not get "inside" the wheel far enough to get it clean enough. My husband had to pry me off the wheels to do the rest of the car....Any ideas for how to get farther inside the wheels...I was using a toothbrush. Got anything else, maybe with a bendy neck???



