I ordered my MCS last weekend, and hopefully will have it around mid May. It will be my 2nd car, and so not a daily driver unless the weather is nice (I've got a blazer as my primary). The MCS is Pure Silver w/ a black roof (no sunroof).

How soon with a new car is it safe and ok to use something like Epic? I thought that it used to be that new cars couldn't be touched for many months to allow the paint to cure etc. Perhaps times have changed? With this color, are there particular products that you'd recommend?

Please note that I am NOT the kind of person that will want to spend hours and hours detailing my car. I'm way too busy for that with work and other personal commitments. But, I do want it to look nice, and am willing to spend a reasonable amount for the few products that will get me through the summer and fall.

Best regards,

Jeff

 

This was the same exact question I had, so someone please answer

 

Sure if you insist! LOL

The paint comes from the factory oven cured--not to mention it does sit on a boat in transit to you and from the time the car is painted to the time you actually get your hands on it, you don't need to worry about the paint. Now if you repainted your car at a body shop where they don't have the luxury to oven bake the paint cause things like rubber hoses that melt, and gasoline in the car might ignite--are reasons why you need to wait 30 to 60 days after the paint is applied.

As for what you can do to keep your car looking great?

Have you read my detailing article in the NAM Alliance Ezine? If not, go read it--it's free.

You'll want to claybar the paint before you wax it. Then apply Epic. You can do this all by hand, no machine necessary. Sometimes the dealer will use a machine buffer to apply the wax and will actually mar the paint and add what's known as holograms. If you can see them--again read the NAM Alliance article for pictures, then use Amigo first, then Epic.

Richard

 

That makes sense, thanks for the prompt reply. You are saying that it is better to apply the epic by hand, but is it ok to use a buffer to take it off, or is it better to do everything by hand?

Thanks,
Scott

 

Sorry I wasn't clear. I was just saying that if you don't have a buffer, then you can use the Amigo/Epic combo by hand to make the paint look it's best. If you DO have a buffer, then I would suggest a different process of actually polishing the paint--but again, I'm assuming the paint has issues from the dealer. Many do, some don't. Regardless, the Amigo/Epic combo should be fine--both products are easy to apply and remove.

 

That's only because you haven't received your new MINI yet!

 

Hi Richard,

Great - that's good news. Thanks! Even still, not from a safety perspective - will the new car shine be good for a while or will I need to apply some sort of polish to bring out its best right off the bat?

I can't seem to find it. The Alliance stuff looks like it requires a yearly subscription. If your detailing article is free would you please send me the URL (or a private message). Thanks!

What claybars do you like? I assume they aren't all created equally. I'm not letting the dealer do any detailing for me (unless they do something to brand new cars when they get them in and don't tell me about it, but I wouldn't think they'd do anything more than a simple wash).

 

The NAM Alliance is free for the first two issues. Go here and download your free copy.
https://www.northamericanmotoring.com/alliance

We're working on the second issue right now...I'm kinda late in getting my next article finished.

Your car should look great from the dealer--it won't need to be polished, though I would recommend waxing it as soon as you can as well as claying before waxing. As for clay, I've always recommended Meguiar's Professional Blue Clay--which is what I use and recommend to others. I like how easy it is to knead, and how quickly it works, yet is still completely safe for all paint types.


http://www.showcardetailing.com/esho...Detailing+Clay

re: Dealer Wax
Well, they will likely wash it--and that's usually a bad thing--but it depends a lot on yourself. I don't let the dealer wash my car, and I've seen customers cars after a single wash from the dealer looking all scratched and marred. But not everyone sees this sort of thing, so it may not even bother you if you don't know what to look for...lol.

Richard

 

Excellent - thanks - this will make for great reading.

Understood. I'm looking forward to reading it.

Cool. I'll read up on the current .pdf and really look forward to your article in issue 2.

Very nice - thanks!!! I'll pick some up.

This confirms some things that I've been reading, in my "get up to speed on detailing" project. Clearly, I don't know much about detailing yet but that will change! I've promised myself a FUN car for years. And the MCS is essentially a 40th B-day present to myself. So, I'll want it to look GOOD.

It sounds like I should just tell the dealership to just spray the car down with some water, but not touch it otherwise. Is this correct?

Best regards, and thanks so much for your help!

Jeff

 

Learning to "detail" is an ongoing thing. Everyone chooses how "****" they want to be--well some can't choose, they are blessed with OCD, lol. But what it all boils down to is learning how to fit our lifestyle (i.e. available time and energy) into keeping our cars looking their best.

"Best" is also one of those terms that depends on you. For most people, a car that's shiny is all they want. For many, including myself, a car that shines and reflects light like a sparkling gemstone is the goal, and keeping it that way day in and day out is the challenge.

Don't worry too much about the car wash. Just enjoy yourself and your new MINI, and if your dealer happens to wash cars like some of the worst dealers around here---it will still be fixable..and that's a part of the fun, lol

Richard

 

I just finished reading the article - super stuff. One thing makes me nervous:

Be sure to use enough lubricant. If you do not, the clay
will grab and scuff your paint. If this happens accidentally,
it is likely that you will only need to re-clay the area where
the accident occurred. If the paint has been severely scuffed,
an abrasive polish may be the only way to recover the area.

Using the right amount of lubricant is a bit of a balancing act.
Use too much and the clay is less effective. Use too little
and you scuff the paint.

I'm concerned that I'd lack the right touch and end up scuffing the paint on my brand new MCS. Am I worrying too much? Or, might I use a more mild clay?

J.

 

Hmm, did I write that?? Oh well, the paint won't really get scuffed--but the clay will stick to it and won't do anything. Just flood the paint as you clay...it's pretty easy. Keep the paint wet and the clay will do it's thing. Once you try using clay, it will all make sense. Trying to rub clay on a dry or improperly lubricated surface is like trying to use chewing gum as an eraser--it just sticks to the surface.

 

Great - thanks for the clarification!

 

Along this same line; I've read mention of using Quick Detailer as lubricant (which could be expensive) and also a mixture of water and soap (much cheaper alternative). Is there any difference? Will you get a better result with QD than you do with soap and water? Also, what kind of soap should be used (Dawn or mild carwash soap)?

THANKS for all the great tips!!!

 

QD or a clay lube is recommended. Soap water can also be used, but some clays will actually fall apart and crumble--so its one of those things you just have to try and see what works.

Some QD's are actually too slippery to be used as clay lube--for instance Prima Slick is not a good clay lube as it prevents the clay from shearing off contaminants.

Prima Glide is perfect. I use Meguiar's Professional Last Touch for lube since I use a lot of QD. It comes in gallon form and is diluted 1:1 with water, so a single bottle is really 2 gallons of usable product.

http://www.showcardetailing.com/esho...sp?id=93&bc=no

It's an ok QD, but I don't use it for that purpose--I prefer Slick for QD.

You might think QD is expensive, but scratched or swirled paint, or even buying new clay because the bar fell apart, adds up to much more, lol.

Richard

 

Thanks Richard, great info. I have a large spray bottle of Meguiar's Quick Detailer, so that's probably what I'll use. Don't want to chance getting swirls or having my clay fall apart. Not sure when I'll ever get to clay though, the weather isn't cooperating.

 

Richard, I also have a new mini and have seen your posts on claying and waxing. Do you how the clay in the Meguiar's Smooth Surface Clay Kit compares to the Professional Blue Clay?

-- Rick

 

It's a fine clay but it works about twice as slow. The blue clay isn't twice as aggressive but it works better without harming or marring a finish.

Richard

 

I had my first experience with claying last week, was a bit nervous as to how it would work etc, but it is really simple, I wouldn't stress about it.

 

Thanks for the info. Since I already have it I'll give it a try. If it goes too slow I'll get the blue clay.

-- Rick

 

Let me rephrase it.

Meguiar's consumer clay is just fine for claybarring your car, especially if it's your first time. However when it comes to removing transfers and marks on your paint--the number of strokes before seeing improvement can be desirable--that is---maybe it takes 50 strokes with the blue clay instead of 100 strokes with the consumer clay----whereas you might give up after 30 strokes thinking it's not doing anything so can't be fixed with clay.

For general claying of the paint, the consumer stuff is fine-especially if you already own it.

Richard

 

Thanks. Sounds like the consumer clay will be just fine, especially on a new car.

- Rick