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Argh... I induced some light swirls...

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Old Jul 10, 2007 | 02:12 PM
  #26  
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agranger
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Here's an article on polishing and over-polishing: http://guidetodetailing.com/articles.php?articleId=57
 
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Old Jul 10, 2007 | 02:32 PM
  #27  
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From: Always curious ...
Great article. Thanks.

This part makes for some scary reading:

"It should be noted that a proper paint finish (primer, color and clearcoat) is only 6-8 thousandths (6/1000) of an inch thick. If your car has a quality clearcoat, it will be about half of that total paint thickness. Removing 1-2 thousandths of and inch of clearcoat happens in a matter of seconds with an abrasive polish."
 
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Old Jul 10, 2007 | 02:50 PM
  #28  
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abrasive polish... what grit? 400? lol
 
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Old Jul 10, 2007 | 04:59 PM
  #29  
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From: Always curious ...
Originally Posted by kenchan
abrasive polish... what grit? 400? lol
Yes; he could have been more specific.
 
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Old Jul 10, 2007 | 06:00 PM
  #30  
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Actually I agree! But I assume you mean the paint booth where it's sprayed, and not where the painters have since wetsanded it and polished it--because there can be a lot of other issues besides swirls straight from the booth like airborne contaminants, and fisheyes that will make even a swirl free freshly painted car look bad! Not to mention uneven spraying of metallic flakes, lol, but yes I'm going OT here.

My JB/JB has swirls. I freely admit it. They are very light, but they exist. I'm ok with it. I've accepted long ago that it's always relative to other black finishes that look scoured!

Originally Posted by MiniMaybee
+1^ With due respect to Richard, I still believe there is no such thing as a swirl-free car once it leaves the paint booth!
Using the dual action orbital or with a rotary? The amount of clear coat removal with the orbital isn't measurable. With a rotary, you can easily take off 1 MIL with an aggressive pad and polish. Swirls don't appear in the same place on the car, so it's not like you're thinning the paint in the same are eveytime. And remember, whether you machine polish or hand polish, the result is the same--you're removing paint to improve the finish.

Originally Posted by k_h_d
How many polishings would it take to go through the clear coat? 1000's?
Depends. If the paint has been wetsanded to remove orange peel, it's probably half as thick as it originally was. If it's been polished to remove scratches it will be even thinner. The entire thickness of sealant, primer, basecoat, clearcoat is thinner than a sheet of paper, yet you will see swirls in your vinyl stripes. Ever seen the thickness of that? Yes, you could even polish those swirls out.

Ever tried to take a magnifying loupe to a swirl? You can't see it. It's different from a scratch.

Originally Posted by ofioliti
Hmmm ... really? If we assume some depth for the swirls, and removing them requires polishing (removal/leveling) of the clearcoat to at least the depth of the swirl, then it doesn't matter what polish you use, application method, etc., as long as it is polished smooth, right? If that is correct, then if one knows how deep a typical swirl is and how thick the coat is, then coat thickness divided by swirl depth = number times one can polish before going through the clearcoat.
Using my electronic thickness gauge which measures in MIL, it's not measurable the before and after using an orbital polisher to remove swirls.

Originally Posted by ofioliti
So, if we take and average clear coat of 3.5 mils and average swirl depth of 5 microns, that gives just over 17 polishings. Since one is likely to polish a bit more than necessary to remove the swirl, let’s be conservative and say that

one can polish about a dozen times to remove swirls before one eats through the clear coat.
The average clearcoat is not 3.5 mils. Most MINI factory paints are about 5mils. This is primer, basecoat, clearcoat--though the newer MINI paints don't have primer--just lots of basecoat and clearcoat.

Originally Posted by MiniMaybee
I think OctaneGuy has a paint thickness gauge and could shed some relative data with us if he would just appear.
Eveybody now: OG, OG, OG
Sorry, I didn't see this post! I'm here now.
 
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Old Jul 10, 2007 | 06:22 PM
  #31  
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A quote from the Zaino website (Sonus Paintwork Cleanser has a bit of very, very fine abrasive in it... it is the most mild polish I've got in my arsenal of products):

Fine polishes serve to keep paint healthy by removing microscopic surface oxidation. They also round over the edges of swirl marks to reduce or eliminate their visibility. To prove this to be true, I polished a single panel on my car every day for 30 days using P21S Paintwork Cleanser. At the end of the month I could not detect a reduction in paint thickness using an electronic paint thickness meter.
 
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Old Jul 10, 2007 | 06:33 PM
  #32  
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Interesting. And does it fill swirls too or just "round off the edges" of them?
 
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Old Jul 10, 2007 | 06:44 PM
  #33  
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ofioliti
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From: Always curious ...
Originally Posted by agranger
.
Fine polishes ... round over the edges of swirl marks to reduce or eliminate their visibility. To prove this to be true, I polished a single panel on my car every day for 30 days using P21S Paintwork Cleanser. At the end of the month I could not detect a reduction in paint thickness using an electronic paint thickness meter.
Good point. Polishing to "remove" swirls doesn't necessarily require leveling the paint completely. Just rounding the edges of the scratch (without reducing the surrounding paint/clearcoat level) may make them unnoticeable. So, as the website cited above says, start mild and work your way up.
 
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Old Jul 10, 2007 | 07:31 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by MLWagner79
Interesting. And does it fill swirls too or just "round off the edges" of them?
The P21S Paintworks Cleanser is meant as a prep to use before polishing. I use it before I clay to remove any remaining surface contaminates. It has no fillers in it. It would not be a good polish since the abrasives are so fine.
 
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Old Jul 10, 2007 | 09:07 PM
  #35  
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Agreed. People should remember that when polishing the paint, you're always looking for the least aggressive method to get the job done, and this is done by doing a test spot to determine the pad/chemical choice to accomplish this.

I can tell by sight what chemical/pad/tool to use most of the time by experience and knowledge of the paint system. I'm certain that if I saw swirls in the paint, that I would not choose the P21S Paintworks Cleanser as my first choice, unless I saw that the paint was nearly flawless except for a few stray marrings or swirls. And in that case, I would likely choose Amigo for it's glaze and polishing properties.

Richard


Originally Posted by MiniMaybee
The P21S Paintworks Cleanser is meant as a prep to use before polishing. I use it before I clay to remove any remaining surface contaminates. It has no fillers in it. It would not be a good polish since the abrasives are so fine.
 
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