Actually maybe a better idea is a Frappr map. You can load photos on the maps too. There's one that I'm on for the Astroblack Registry...and there's one for motoringfile.com.

 

Getting down low on the car is a good idea. Many ppl just stand up straight and shoot down ... boring. Getting low, especially with a true WA, give far more dramatic shots. Good idea.

Composition is probably the most important thing, not worrying about equipment. If people really took a critical look at their pictures, they may find that out of 100 shots, maybe 1 or 2 are good. Out of 1,000 shots, 1 or 2 are great. Of course, the better you get, the more good shots you get.

I think, unfortunately, that now "film" is essentially free, taking the time to really compose a good shot vice just going through several 2 Gig CF cards ... may not be a good thing for composition.

 

Sorry, when I mentioned using the 10x zoom I was talking optical zoom on a digital camera. Many (well some) mid range digital cameras like mine have a 10x optical zoom in my case couple with a 3x digital zoom that latter of which I don't use. That was a major shopping point for me. Because of the small size of the imaging device in many digital and video cameras a 10x is more practical in these smaller formats.

Indeed on a 35mm film camera a 10x zoom would be a monster. Sometimes in my 35mm bag I carry around a 500mm f6.3 and a 135mm f1.8. MMMM, big glass.

I don't use the 500mm that often especially with it's rifle stock mount. I'm afraid someone will think I'm aiming a RPG and shoot me.

What I should have said was "On a digital camera a zoom with a good ratio, say 8-10x or better, or a camera with interchangeable lenses allows great perspective control". That's assuming one has a couple interesting lenses for the interchangeable lens camera.

 

Ahh, by digital camera you really mean on the tiny point and shoots with tiny sensors. Like a Nikon Coolpix s4 has a 10x optical zoom with 38-380mm 35mm equivalency. I suspect that because the sensor size is so tiny, they can get away with squeezing it all into a point and shoot because the lens is so much smaller. For example, the actual lens size on that camera is 6.3-63mm. HUGE difference between 63mm and 500mm so you gotta know how tiny that sensor has to be.

For any crop camera DSLR, 10X zoom just isn't happening (except for the Bigma), nevermind a full frame DSLR. Glass is just too huge. 63mm to 500mm ... you just can't compare.

I understand ... yup, the point & shoots are getting more stuff squeeze into them all the time

 

Yes, I meant non DSLR's anywhoodles... I think we're on the wrong site to debate (and I doubt if anyone else here cares) where you draw the line between "point and shoot", "mid range", "Prosumer & Pro" digital gear. And quite honestly I'm a 'retro' guy when it comes to cameras and I don't stay abreast of the leading edge in digital cameras. Funny coming from a IT guy huh?

In my mind I still only consider digital when thinking "point and shoot stuff" of one type or another. That's wrong of course! The quality, resolution and features are there, have been for quite some time and digitals is used more than film in most industries. I'm not suggesting otherwise! But I'm just a retro guy when it comes to photography and I admit that & I'm skewed heavily towards film. It's just what I enjoy. Not making any claims and certainly not putting down digital in any way, I just happen to be into film and film cameras 'cause it's what I grew up on.

But what do you expect with from a guy with a collection of film cameras going back to the early 1900's? Or who thinks it's fun to darken part of a B&W print while developing it by using your warm breath on the spot you want to darken? Bring back my Panatomic-X & Kodabromide!!!

"Come see my darkroom sweetheart and let's see what develops" I was actually given a bumper sticker that said that once many moons ago. I did NOT put it on my car.

All that said I still do shoot 80% digital. It's inexpensive to use, convenient, and at the price point I was willing to spend on a digital camera two years ago (under $300) I found a camera with the 10x optical I craved, that also sported full metered manual, aperture priority, shutter priority, as well as all the usual full auto exposure modes. In short it emulated my favorite semi modern 35mm cameras' feature set in many ways.

Once I foolishly kept both a 2 cup pyrex measuring of stop bath (mild acid for you none film developing folks) and a large english style mug (about 2 cups and similar shape) of iced tea both in the darkroom within about two feet of each other. You can guess what happened. That'd never happen with digital! Digitals safer!

 

Oh, no debate, I just didnt understand ...

When you said digital, you meant the tiny p&s camera.

When you said digital, my mind read "DSLR"

I got nothing against p&s, we still use are old nikon 5000 that's about almost 7 years old now and it still works

 

Does anybody know how to get shots like this? I would love to get shots like this for my Mini

 

Most likely, guessing done in a studio and photochopped.

The lighting looks like studio lights. You can see distinct shadows caused by the car. The light blurs are IMO very slow shutter speeds with point lights moving, Much like shots you see at night of traffic with red streaks.

 

those pics are not done in a studio

 

Hey PGT nice meeting you yesterday I'll think about those seat covers, but its not likely

And, yeah, I'd have to agree with you, I don't think these are photochopped I meant hey might be tweaked in photoshop but dont think they are studio photos manipulated to look like night time motion photos...

 

You're going to mount the camera on some kind of platform or boom attached to the car. (Gaffer's tape is your friend.) You will use a remote shutter release, and a fairly long shutter speed, and will drive the car at low speed (20-30 mph). It takes a bit of trial and error to get the exposure right.

Looking at the angles of the pictures above, they may have been done just holding the camera out the window by hand. Rigging up a boom will allow for more of the car to be in the picture, making for a better shot, IMHO.

--Dan
Mach V
FastMINI.net

 

I thought I remembered seeing a photograph somewhere of a Mini that had some kind of camera mount low and on the side...which would probably allow for a shot like this. My guess is nobody could hold a camera steady enough to get the straight lines like the ones in the photos.

 

vacu-cam

 

VAAAACU-CAAAAAMMMM!

 

Nope...just look at the vacu-cam...that aint it...unless you can mount an slr on to it. I think its only for video? is that right? but the vacu-cam does look very cool though....hmmmm

 

there are mounts that work the same and could hold a proper rig

 

im a prof photoger- for hire : )
cars are not my focus (pun intended) but i do shoot some and would love to do more ; )
(advertisment)
i also do weddings and events
my site is still under cunstruction but theres a small sampling there...
AnnieoPhoto.com
I am also a videographer allthough there is no video on the site- i cant get them linked up... oy


if you all are doing a photog event- id be happy to help out : )

 

There is only one difference from a "PRO" photographer and a good amatur. The pro is paid to deliver a shot and the amatur isn't. I've been in and out of the Pro side of taking pictures more times than I can count.

Things to remember-
Lighting-Lighting is your friend. Don't take a picture when the sun is at high noon the lighting is very flat and harse then and it doesn't make for good pictures. Use the light in the early mornings and late afternoon, it'll create interesting shadows and the light is warmer.

Composition- Left to right. Most folks have dominate right eyes and look a a photo from left to right. Compose in thirds, if you want a full car shot devide the car in thirds and have a third of the car in each third of the shot. that way you lead the viewer into the shot. Background is window dressing don't let it over power the car. While a wide angle distorts straight lines, it can add interest to the shot. If you can shot from a tripod, use a slow shutter speed, if it's windy out the background will show motion and the car will be tack sharp. Use the cameras self timer to trigger the shot if you don't have a remote.

Use the lowest ISO you can to get the shot, it'll pay off in a less noisey shot that you can make a larger blow-up of. If you have a 6MP camera and you use good technique you should be able to get 13x19 without any trouble. Pay attention to the details and you'll do just fine.

 

I'd love to join on a photo adventure. I'm a "Pro" photographer and also Amateur. I have done several weddings, as well as other events.
I'd be happy to come along and help anybody that wants help. ~No Charge~

PL4YPL4Y -
Simple you need an exterior mount you trust to hold your camera and decrease the shutter speed so it stays open longer. Thats how you get the streaks of lights.

Or from the interior like my photos:

 

If any of us who loves photography, got good eyes, likes sports, has some free time during some weekday late afternoon, has a decent camera set up and would like make a little $$$ to get a new brake kit or turbo conversion kit ..... please contact me by PM or email.

I'm looking for one to join the team. (located in MD is preferred).

 

How about Hawaii?

 

I would like to do this, but I don't have an SLR

 

I am very interested in the meet and digi photo class. I took photography in college, but it was all film based. I started messing around with Digital on my own, but haven't really taken the time to really learn about my camera. I work with an old Nikon 2020 for B/W film and develop my own stuff. As for digital I have a Cannon Rebel and a Sony point and shoot.

 

what team is this? id like to make money- i have lots o'camera equiptment... qua?

 

PM's sent. Thank you.