Can anyone who has done a 'regular' brake bleed service on their R60 chime in here? I've got a power bleeder and one 64 OZ can of Pentosin LV Dot 4. I normally just bleed with this set up, but never on a Mini before.

Reading a few horror stories about problematic brakes (soft) after bleeding. Some of those appear to be related to a new MC or lines. But others are vague about what is going on. Bentley guide simply says normal procedure (bleeding farthest from MC then closest), but also punts and says if this doesn't work, seek Mini dedicated bleeding equipment or similar language.

Have others had any issue doing a traditional four corner bleed (farthest to nearest to MC) with a Motive Power Bleeder? Is 64 OZ of the Pentosin enough? I don't want to wait for another order from FCP Euro if I don't have to. And did folks have to activate the ABS to finalize the bleed...assuming they did NOT let the MC run dry?

Thanks in advance. John

 

I was able to bleed the brakes on my 2014 Base the traditional ways with the ECS Tuning kit I got for filling the trans the traditional method. Not sure 64 OZ is enough depending on how much you bleed. Would have been nice to have more when I did mine.

https://www.ecstuning.com/b-schwaben...waAiWJEALw_wcB

 

It is really easy to do with a power bleeder. On both my R55s and friends R60s all4 used the same bleeder. Empty out the reservoir, fill power bleeder with fluid, pump to 15lbs, with it attached to the reservoir, crack bleeders and collect fluid until it’s clear and close bleeder. Had car on jacks stands all 4 corners. Did passenger rear, driver rear, passenger front, driver front and no issues either one. Going to swap the clubby out again next spring before MOTD. I also would check the pressure and keep it at 15lbs after I closed the bleeder. You can probably do it with 1 litter but you might want some extra just in case.

 

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...e-fluid-431627

a good how to from here. You need an 11mm open end not a 9mm.

 

Thanks Gents. Appreciated.

 

If I may add one more consideration...if you use the "Friend pushing the pedal" technique, put something under the brake Pedal so that they cannot push the pedal all the way to the floor. This extreme pedal stroke length can stress the plunger boot to the point it tears, and then you have a brake master cylinder to work on. If your car is relatively new, and has ALWAYS had the brake fluid replaced on time, it's less of a risk. Just pointing out it is a risk. Power-bleeder avoids this technique, of course.

 

Yes, good point. Never thought of a board under the pedal to prevent this. Good idea.

I actually power bled it today. One thing I didn't think of was it's a bad idea to push the pedal down at all while the powerbleeder is attached. It puts an upward pressure on the cap assembly of the bleeder and can (and in my case did) force some fluid from the reservoir out onto the car.

Didn't notice it until doing the last wheel. Lucky for me it didn't do damage to anything. But word to the wise not to do this. I was checking pedal firmness...something best not to do in such a set up until all is disconnected. I won't forget that again for sure.