Who here has blown their Midlands?
#126
12-27-2007, 11:34 AM
When your Midlands died, didn't you notice anything different the week prior? Mine certainly felt different--looser--engaged slightly different before it finally gave up the ghost at 43,000 miles. That was well over a year ago, and I believe I had been informed that they had already stopped manufacturing the Midlands--so any replacements would have to be refurbs.
#128
12-27-2007, 12:47 PM
"When your Midlands died, didn't you notice anything different the week prior? Mine certainly felt different--looser--engaged slightly different"
yes the first transmission seemed loose almost floppy for about 2 weeks then the syncros in 2nd went out a week later then 2nd itself 3 days later then i took it in 2 days after that when it died. and the 2nd one felt really stiff and hard to engage down shifting into 4th off the hwy. then it died literally a min later crossing railroad tracks in 1st.
so are they going to rebuild transmissions for ever? because i don't plan on stopping breaking this one before my 2 years is up...
yes the first transmission seemed loose almost floppy for about 2 weeks then the syncros in 2nd went out a week later then 2nd itself 3 days later then i took it in 2 days after that when it died. and the 2nd one felt really stiff and hard to engage down shifting into 4th off the hwy. then it died literally a min later crossing railroad tracks in 1st.
so are they going to rebuild transmissions for ever? because i don't plan on stopping breaking this one before my 2 years is up...
#130
12-27-2007, 04:15 PM
We had a little over 12k miles on the new Midlands...
Anyway, just found and requisitioned a '06 Getrag 6-speed, which is on its way to us now. From talking with a UK tuner that's done quite a few Getrag-6 swaps, the required parts aren't that bad. Glad I got the '05+ Getrag with the slightly more Cooper friendly gear ratios, too!
Parts required are:
1. A Getrag tranny (duh!)
2. L and R output shafts for the year model tranny you got
3. Starter motor for the Cooper S
4. Cooper S flywheel, clutch and pressure plate
5. Shifter assembly and cables from the year model tranny you got - it changed in 2004.
You have to lengthen the reverse light switch wires a bit... And, tweak the slave cylinder's piping a bit. But, the battery stays in the front, the airbox stays, etc. The wheel bearings are the same across cars, as are the hub carrier/upright,etc.
Doesn't sound too bad - I mean, we've had the front end of the car off twice now, so it should be fairly straightforward. Of course, we'll need all new fluids, too - coolant, tranny fluid, etc.
Anyway, we'll DEFINITELY write up a how-to and take lots of pics once the surgery commences! With any luck it'll be within the next 2-3 weeks. I'm looking forward to a permanent solution to this problem, I know.
Anyway, just found and requisitioned a '06 Getrag 6-speed, which is on its way to us now. From talking with a UK tuner that's done quite a few Getrag-6 swaps, the required parts aren't that bad. Glad I got the '05+ Getrag with the slightly more Cooper friendly gear ratios, too!
Parts required are:
1. A Getrag tranny (duh!)
2. L and R output shafts for the year model tranny you got
3. Starter motor for the Cooper S
4. Cooper S flywheel, clutch and pressure plate
5. Shifter assembly and cables from the year model tranny you got - it changed in 2004.
You have to lengthen the reverse light switch wires a bit... And, tweak the slave cylinder's piping a bit. But, the battery stays in the front, the airbox stays, etc. The wheel bearings are the same across cars, as are the hub carrier/upright,etc.
Doesn't sound too bad - I mean, we've had the front end of the car off twice now, so it should be fairly straightforward. Of course, we'll need all new fluids, too - coolant, tranny fluid, etc.
Anyway, we'll DEFINITELY write up a how-to and take lots of pics once the surgery commences! With any luck it'll be within the next 2-3 weeks. I'm looking forward to a permanent solution to this problem, I know.
#132
12-27-2007, 06:28 PM
I got about 15,000 on my THIRD MIDLANDS!!!!! The car itself has almost 112,000. How much longer should this stupid tranny last? Do I have to drive the car like a little old lady now? I am asking this because I don't want the tranny to go out when it comes time to sell my MINI in about a year!
#133
12-28-2007, 02:24 AM
Apparently a rebuilt midland gearbox, new clutch & flywheel on warranty as well and 2 years warranty on the repair.
#134
12-28-2007, 10:33 AM
#137
12-29-2007, 10:07 PM
#138
01-06-2008, 02:45 AM
I had a 2002 Cooper S and I've been kicking around the idea (again) of getting another MINI...maybe a Cooper this time. The Midland transmission really scares me though. With my luck I'd end up with an eggshell model and bust it quickly. :( We'll see what happens - at least it looks like it's not *that* bad to swap in the 6 speed. I did an engine / suspension / transmission / wiring swap in a Subaru of mine with a friend, so hopefully we could tackle the tranny should it come up.
#139
01-09-2008, 09:10 AM
OK, my wife's SG 03 MC w/midlands 5-speed has about 44K on it. Yes, this thread has made me just a little paranoid...
I'm about to install a skid plate this weekend, and I was thinking I would change the gearbox fluid as a preventitive measure. I changed my MCS over to Redline MTL and it did smooth out the shifts a little. Lord knows the Midlands could use a little help - although my wife hasn't complained.
Someone told me that you can't use the same weight oil in the midlands, that a different weight was called for. True? False? What weight should we put into these things?
Any suggestions on brand & weight would be appreciated. I've done a search but I haven't found much...
I'm about to install a skid plate this weekend, and I was thinking I would change the gearbox fluid as a preventitive measure. I changed my MCS over to Redline MTL and it did smooth out the shifts a little. Lord knows the Midlands could use a little help - although my wife hasn't complained.
Someone told me that you can't use the same weight oil in the midlands, that a different weight was called for. True? False? What weight should we put into these things?
Any suggestions on brand & weight would be appreciated. I've done a search but I haven't found much...
#140
01-09-2008, 10:17 AM
4th Gear
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Covina,CA
Posts: 302
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
#142
01-09-2008, 02:48 PM
#143
01-11-2008, 06:52 PM
5th Gear
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Raleigh, NC
Posts: 698
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Gearshift out of line after Midlands Replacement - HELP!
As predicted, I just had my third Midlands installed by the dealer at 70K miles under warranty with two weeks to go!
However, here's the kicker: when I picked the car up, my gearshift lever was noticably kicked over to the left by approximately 1 1/2" measured at the gearknob to the extent that first and second rub against my leg. Also, it seemed like the effort to move the stick to the right was much greater (spring resistence) than to the left where it was nearly effortless. The tech initially agreed that it seemed out of sorts but now the dealer may be taking the position that it's fine (which it is not).
HELP! Anyone have any thoughts as to what may be causing the problem as it was clearly caused when switching out the gearbox. I intially thought for a moment that a Getrag box was installed instead of the Midlands resulting in a slight difference in the linkages but the part numbers match up from the first warranty exchange. I'm not really interestsed in any blame assessment, I just want to solve the problem and offer a suggestion to check out.
Many Thanks!
However, here's the kicker: when I picked the car up, my gearshift lever was noticably kicked over to the left by approximately 1 1/2" measured at the gearknob to the extent that first and second rub against my leg. Also, it seemed like the effort to move the stick to the right was much greater (spring resistence) than to the left where it was nearly effortless. The tech initially agreed that it seemed out of sorts but now the dealer may be taking the position that it's fine (which it is not).
HELP! Anyone have any thoughts as to what may be causing the problem as it was clearly caused when switching out the gearbox. I intially thought for a moment that a Getrag box was installed instead of the Midlands resulting in a slight difference in the linkages but the part numbers match up from the first warranty exchange. I'm not really interestsed in any blame assessment, I just want to solve the problem and offer a suggestion to check out.
Many Thanks!
#145
01-12-2008, 06:55 AM
I would like to see a report on Midllands that have blown up after the fluid was changed to something other than the stock stuff. I keep hoping the fluid change can have a positive effect on keeping the Midlands from breaking. Probably just a "hope" and not a reality.
#146
01-13-2008, 10:34 AM
I thought you guys might find this interesting. I changed the gearbox fluid yesterday in my wife's 03 SG MC - here's a pic of the 2 magnetic drain plugs right after they were removed from the car:
One one hand, I feel good that the plugs are magnetic and that the little magnets are doing their job - and it was good to get that black fluid out and fresh synthetic Redline MTL in. But on the other hand - Damn!
This car has just under 50K miles. We plan to keep this car a long time, so I'm hoping this gearbox lasts another 100K or so. My wife's a very tame driver, so maybe we've got a shot. I'll change this gearbox fluid again in another 2 years or so and report back...
Shifting was noticebly smoother after the fluid change. I thought the change was much more noticable in this car, compared to when I did the same fluid change in my 03 MCS...
One one hand, I feel good that the plugs are magnetic and that the little magnets are doing their job - and it was good to get that black fluid out and fresh synthetic Redline MTL in. But on the other hand - Damn!
This car has just under 50K miles. We plan to keep this car a long time, so I'm hoping this gearbox lasts another 100K or so. My wife's a very tame driver, so maybe we've got a shot. I'll change this gearbox fluid again in another 2 years or so and report back...
Shifting was noticebly smoother after the fluid change. I thought the change was much more noticable in this car, compared to when I did the same fluid change in my 03 MCS...
#147
01-13-2008, 10:45 AM
I did the fluid change on my MCS the other day, and was surprised to see that the gearbox fluid was black and like water, and had a foul smell. Is this what you guys are finding as well?? Is that what the OEM fluid is like or has that just broken down so much it's become that way? Only 70,000 miles and it was like I had no lubricating fluid at all. I never changed the gear box fluid in my '03 Cooper, so no idea if that was the same.
#148
01-13-2008, 01:08 PM
No...both those pics and OG...thats ALL bad. When I changed my fluid @ 40K I had no metal and my fluid was black and semi-thick with no smell. The pics of that chip detector are leading to a VERY VERY bad thing. Changing the oil isnt gonna help that tranny in the long run. Where do you think the metal is coming from!?!??!? LOL. And OG...what did it smell like? Did it smell burnt? Cause the fluid shouldnt smell..
Im changing my fluid here soon @ 75K. Maybe this weekend. I'll let you know. But I beat my tranny down with the bad tranny stick everyday and it keeps wanting more...lmao
Im changing my fluid here soon @ 75K. Maybe this weekend. I'll let you know. But I beat my tranny down with the bad tranny stick everyday and it keeps wanting more...lmao
#149
01-13-2008, 01:46 PM
FWIW, my fluid did come out black, but there was no foul odor or burnt smell.
#150
01-13-2008, 05:23 PM
Had a chemical/ spoiled odor--is about the best I can say. It didn't smell good, nor did it smell like any oil or fluid I've smelled anywhere on the MINI. No it didn't smell burnt. Danny at Minicorsa was stunned when he unplugged the drain and everything gushed out in a few seconds, instead of slowly draining out. I had asked him to change the fluid because for the past 15,000 miles I noticed my shifting not very reliable--sometimes was hard to shift into gear, and sometimes would pop out of gear. The fear of tranny problems with my 6 speed Getrag came to mind...glad changing the fluid was all it needed.
No...both those pics and OG...thats ALL bad. When I changed my fluid @ 40K I had no metal and my fluid was black and semi-thick with no smell. The pics of that chip detector are leading to a VERY VERY bad thing. Changing the oil isnt gonna help that tranny in the long run. Where do you think the metal is coming from!?!??!? LOL. And OG...what did it smell like? Did it smell burnt? Cause the fluid shouldnt smell.. Im changing my fluid here soon @ 75K. Maybe this weekend. I'll let you know. But I beat my tranny down with the bad tranny stick everyday and it keeps wanting more...lmao
Im changing my fluid here soon @ 75K. Maybe this weekend. I'll let you know. But I beat my tranny down with the bad tranny stick everyday and it keeps wanting more...lmao