R50 Perfromance Mods
6th Gear
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 3,673
Likes: 2
From: Marsala, Sicily
I have no doubt that you have a dyno sheet that says that you have 115whp.
Read what I've said in the previous posts.
I also have a dyno sheet that says my car has 118whp.
Must be true huh.
You believe something that has been proven wrong on the majority of the Mini forums around the world.
I guess not everyone can learn their lesson
I'm sure you will break 200whp in no time with a few stickers and a shiny new spoiler.
Kind regards
Der Abt
Unfortunately, I have read several of your threads (since you started trolling this board) to where you put down everyone that tries to make a claim. I was just backing what GC said and to "inform" anyone about Mynes. I can give two plops from what comes out of my *** what my car puts down. It can put down 60HP for all I care. I don't plan on being a Cooper for very much longer. Hopefully, I can grenade my motor and trans soon. Oh...and btw...no stickers and shiny spoiler for me. I never liked your crowd...
Most Kind Regards
UKSUV
Last edited by UKSUV; Mar 26, 2008 at 04:28 PM.
4th Gear
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 337
Likes: 0
From: Belgium
Same here.
Trolling ?
Is that what you call providing real information backed up with facts ?
It's the other way around on most other forums.
And when you read my threads, a lot of people seem to be glad to be getting such information.
It doesn't seem like it.
Looks to me like you care a lot actually.
Same here.
Wow, you must be smart to make up something like this.
Are you familiar with "sarcasm" ?
Because that's the point I was trying to make.
Guess not.
Kind regards
Der Abt
Is that what you call providing real information backed up with facts ?
It's the other way around on most other forums.
And when you read my threads, a lot of people seem to be glad to be getting such information.
Looks to me like you care a lot actually.
Same here.
Are you familiar with "sarcasm" ?
Because that's the point I was trying to make.
Guess not.
Kind regards
Der Abt
come on, it was funny!!!
Seriously, performance enhancing mods for our cars really don't do much by way of making power. Do what you want to do. I personally liked the brakes and suspension route.
4th Gear
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 337
Likes: 0
From: Belgium
Not really because I didn't get served at all.
Could have been, if you added a South Park kinda accent
I can certainly understand your opinion.
Thing is, I have never claimed anything else in my posts.
I always said that there are a few basic power mods you can do, and all the rest is going to cost a lot of $$$ for small power increases.
Upgrading the brakes and suspension is indeed a good route to follow.
These cars were designed to run like karts.
But if you are able to increase the rev limit with software, you might find that this will also be very handy when you're participating in an AutoX event (higher cornering speeds).
Add to that a better throttle reponse by adding a CAI, and the fun increases
Etc
Kind regards
Der Abt
Could have been, if you added a South Park kinda accent
Thing is, I have never claimed anything else in my posts.
I always said that there are a few basic power mods you can do, and all the rest is going to cost a lot of $$$ for small power increases.
Upgrading the brakes and suspension is indeed a good route to follow.
These cars were designed to run like karts.
But if you are able to increase the rev limit with software, you might find that this will also be very handy when you're participating in an AutoX event (higher cornering speeds).
Add to that a better throttle reponse by adding a CAI, and the fun increases
Etc
Kind regards
Der Abt
6th Gear
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 2,021
Likes: 7
From: Burlington, VT
Suspension...
If you're going to get the JCW dampers, get the JCW springs. They are designed to work together, so there's no guesswork involved. My opinion, anyway.
Front camber plates make a huge difference in handling.
From there, mess with swaybars (most likely just rear, but possible front and rear) to get the car's balance just how you like it. Swaybars should be the last thing you look at, and used for fine tuning.
So... springs and dampers that work together, front camber plates, appropriately sized swaybars based on the rest of your setup.
If you're going to get the JCW dampers, get the JCW springs. They are designed to work together, so there's no guesswork involved. My opinion, anyway.
Front camber plates make a huge difference in handling.
From there, mess with swaybars (most likely just rear, but possible front and rear) to get the car's balance just how you like it. Swaybars should be the last thing you look at, and used for fine tuning.
So... springs and dampers that work together, front camber plates, appropriately sized swaybars based on the rest of your setup.
2nd Gear
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 102
Likes: 0
are dampers struts? if not then what are they?
4th Gear
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 555
Likes: 0
From: North Hollywood, California
i've done (2003 R50 CVT): megan cat back exhaust, aFe CAI, ireland fixed camber plates, h&r 19mm rear sway, dumped the run flats for some bridgestone G009 high performance all seasons.
love the cat back and cai, they definitely helped throttle response and eliminated a stumble from my CVT on take off- moreso than the drop in k&n i tried. other than that i doubt there are any HP gains.
love the camber plates and the sway bar, especially up in the hills on the twisties... amazing.
although i didn't switch to "true" high performance tires; the bridgestones offered me better handling and longevity for my budget. no more run flats= massive difference.
suspension mods seem to work great. "power" mods have made definite small improvements and and have made the car feel sportier. haven't dynod to see if there are any gains other than throttle response- agian if anyhting i bet it is a small spike in power gain. but, with the sportier feel, i tend to test and push the car a lot more which in turn brings the suspension upgrades even more into play.
love the cat back and cai, they definitely helped throttle response and eliminated a stumble from my CVT on take off- moreso than the drop in k&n i tried. other than that i doubt there are any HP gains.
love the camber plates and the sway bar, especially up in the hills on the twisties... amazing.
although i didn't switch to "true" high performance tires; the bridgestones offered me better handling and longevity for my budget. no more run flats= massive difference.
suspension mods seem to work great. "power" mods have made definite small improvements and and have made the car feel sportier. haven't dynod to see if there are any gains other than throttle response- agian if anyhting i bet it is a small spike in power gain. but, with the sportier feel, i tend to test and push the car a lot more which in turn brings the suspension upgrades even more into play.
2nd Gear
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 63
Likes: 0
You car is beautiful! What do you detail with? Are you in VA? Would love to see it sometime.
Best,
T.
2nd Gear
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 63
Likes: 0
i've done (2003 R50 CVT): megan cat back exhaust, aFe CAI, ireland fixed camber plates, h&r 19mm rear sway, dumped the run flats for some bridgestone G009 high performance all seasons.
love the cat back and cai, they definitely helped throttle response and eliminated a stumble from my CVT on take off- moreso than the drop in k&n i tried. other than that i doubt there are any HP gains.
love the camber plates and the sway bar, especially up in the hills on the twisties... amazing.
although i didn't switch to "true" high performance tires; the bridgestones offered me better handling and longevity for my budget. no more run flats= massive difference.
suspension mods seem to work great. "power" mods have made definite small improvements and and have made the car feel sportier. haven't dynod to see if there are any gains other than throttle response- agian if anyhting i bet it is a small spike in power gain. but, with the sportier feel, i tend to test and push the car a lot more which in turn brings the suspension upgrades even more into play.
love the cat back and cai, they definitely helped throttle response and eliminated a stumble from my CVT on take off- moreso than the drop in k&n i tried. other than that i doubt there are any HP gains.
love the camber plates and the sway bar, especially up in the hills on the twisties... amazing.
although i didn't switch to "true" high performance tires; the bridgestones offered me better handling and longevity for my budget. no more run flats= massive difference.
suspension mods seem to work great. "power" mods have made definite small improvements and and have made the car feel sportier. haven't dynod to see if there are any gains other than throttle response- agian if anyhting i bet it is a small spike in power gain. but, with the sportier feel, i tend to test and push the car a lot more which in turn brings the suspension upgrades even more into play.
Are you running Ireland camber plates with stock setup? Will they work with the M7 SRP shock tower plates?
Definitely get lighter wheels next
I switched out my stock 17 wheels for 15x7 Flik Blasts, removed donut & tire change kit & car feels turbo charged when I accelerate.I have K&N Typhoon HAI (no heatshield yet), Kingsborne plugs, Hotchkis competition rear sway bar(mid setting) and Fliks Blast 15X7 wheels (11.9lbs- superb mod!).
Best,
T.
Last edited by minisystema; Mar 27, 2008 at 08:21 AM.
6th Gear
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 2,021
Likes: 7
From: Burlington, VT
Most people start with a rear swaybar, because it's easy, cheap, and has an noticeable effect.
If you're going to eventually do more than that, I'd try to leave the swaybar for last so you can get the right one to compliment the other stuff you have on the car.
I'd start with camber plates.
I would do springs and shocks / dampers at the same time (or do coilovers).
Swaybars last.
But, that's me.
If you're going to eventually do more than that, I'd try to leave the swaybar for last so you can get the right one to compliment the other stuff you have on the car.
I'd start with camber plates.
I would do springs and shocks / dampers at the same time (or do coilovers).
Swaybars last.
But, that's me.
5th Gear
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 684
Likes: 0
From: San Diego area
Most people start with a rear swaybar, because it's easy, cheap, and has an noticeable effect.
If you're going to eventually do more than that, I'd try to leave the swaybar for last so you can get the right one to compliment the other stuff you have on the car.
I'd start with camber plates.
I would do springs and shocks / dampers at the same time (or do coilovers).
Swaybars last.
But, that's me.
If you're going to eventually do more than that, I'd try to leave the swaybar for last so you can get the right one to compliment the other stuff you have on the car.
I'd start with camber plates.
I would do springs and shocks / dampers at the same time (or do coilovers).
Swaybars last.
But, that's me.
6th Gear
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 3,673
Likes: 2
From: Marsala, Sicily
This is what I got on my car right now....there's more I'm sure but I can't remember...
EXTERIOR
ViS CF Hood (MCS)
Aero Kit
35% window tint
LED's for tailights
Orciari 3-pc spoiler
E-bay clear tail lights
Clear sidemarkers
E-bay antenna
Rear Wiper Delete
Rubberized Tow Hook (Black)
SUSPENSION
Bilstein PSS9 Coilovers
K-MAC Camber Plates
18x7.5 Exel TZ-10 wheels
215/35/18 Hankook tires
Alta rear upper and lower control arms
H-Sport Comp sway bars
Alta front and rear endlinks
H-Sport Front Strut Bar
Pilo Racing Rear Stress Bar
Gorilla Hex Wheel bolts 35mm
Hubcentric rings
BRAKES
Stoptech BBK (Black)
Stoptech rear slotted rotors
Axxis rear brake pads
Stoptech rear SS brake lines
Motul RBF600 brake fluid
INTERIOR
Sparco Torino Seats (Blue/Gray)
Autopower 6-Point Cage
Schroth window nets (Driver/Passenger side)
Euro Switching Panel
Gutted Interior
Denison Ice Link
ENGINE
DEKA Battery (11 lb), Odyessey PC680, now a heavy *** Duralast....lol
Moss Intake
Mobil 1 0w-40 motor oil
Batterymart Brass Terminals
Mini (Blue Anodized) Cap
Mini Wing Dipstick
TRANSMISSION
Redline MTL Fluid
EXTERIOR
ViS CF Hood (MCS)
Aero Kit
35% window tint
LED's for tailights
Orciari 3-pc spoiler
E-bay clear tail lights
Clear sidemarkers
E-bay antenna
Rear Wiper Delete
Rubberized Tow Hook (Black)
SUSPENSION
Bilstein PSS9 Coilovers
K-MAC Camber Plates
18x7.5 Exel TZ-10 wheels
215/35/18 Hankook tires
Alta rear upper and lower control arms
H-Sport Comp sway bars
Alta front and rear endlinks
H-Sport Front Strut Bar
Pilo Racing Rear Stress Bar
Gorilla Hex Wheel bolts 35mm
Hubcentric rings
BRAKES
Stoptech BBK (Black)
Stoptech rear slotted rotors
Axxis rear brake pads
Stoptech rear SS brake lines
Motul RBF600 brake fluid
INTERIOR
Sparco Torino Seats (Blue/Gray)
Autopower 6-Point Cage
Schroth window nets (Driver/Passenger side)
Euro Switching Panel
Gutted Interior
Denison Ice Link
ENGINE
DEKA Battery (11 lb), Odyessey PC680, now a heavy *** Duralast....lol
Moss Intake
Mobil 1 0w-40 motor oil
Batterymart Brass Terminals
Mini (Blue Anodized) Cap
Mini Wing Dipstick
TRANSMISSION
Redline MTL Fluid
6th Gear
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 2,021
Likes: 7
From: Burlington, VT
As long as you don't go with the biggest bar you can find, you should be good.
Unless you want "perfect". Then, you may find that the bar you have is too soft on one setting and too stiff on the next - and some other bar might be "perfect". I think that's the situation I'm in.
But, we cannot tell you what bar is "perfect". What is right for you might not be right for someone else. Driving styles vary, cars vary, etc.
That's why I say leave the swaybar for last. It's easy to change. Of course, very few people audition multiple rear bars to find the perfect one.
Unless you want "perfect". Then, you may find that the bar you have is too soft on one setting and too stiff on the next - and some other bar might be "perfect". I think that's the situation I'm in.
But, we cannot tell you what bar is "perfect". What is right for you might not be right for someone else. Driving styles vary, cars vary, etc.
That's why I say leave the swaybar for last. It's easy to change. Of course, very few people audition multiple rear bars to find the perfect one.
If your going to get a dyno and then rest on what it tells you, then your wasting your money...Dynos, to me, are to make improvements and measure those results. Doesn't matter what you start out with, just where you end up.
6th Gear
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 2,021
Likes: 7
From: Burlington, VT
Oooh. I forgot about adding caster to the front of the car too.
I'm not positive on the best way to do this yet, though. The cheapest is the Bavarian Autosport front lower control arm bushings that are offset. I have these. They do the job of adding caster and stiffening up the front lower control arm attachment point. But, there's some debate that they restrict the movement of the control arm - which could be bad.
Then, there's the Alta PSRS. More expensive. Some people have issues with the set screws coming loose. I'm not sure if it restricts the designed movement of the control arm or not.
There are camber plates that also allow caster adjustment. I'm not sure that any of the currently available ones are top quality, though. This does not include the Texas Speedwerks camber / caster plates that aren't out yet.
Adding caster enhances the self-centering of the steering, and dynamically adds negative camber as you turn the steering wheel (a very good thing).
And, the cheapest and easiest way to make a handling improvement - a good alignment. Notice that many of the parts I list are there to help get a really good alignment (camber plates, caster). But, even without parts, if you aren't getting your car aligned every year by a good shop to your specs, do that before you start buying parts.
I'm not positive on the best way to do this yet, though. The cheapest is the Bavarian Autosport front lower control arm bushings that are offset. I have these. They do the job of adding caster and stiffening up the front lower control arm attachment point. But, there's some debate that they restrict the movement of the control arm - which could be bad.
Then, there's the Alta PSRS. More expensive. Some people have issues with the set screws coming loose. I'm not sure if it restricts the designed movement of the control arm or not.
There are camber plates that also allow caster adjustment. I'm not sure that any of the currently available ones are top quality, though. This does not include the Texas Speedwerks camber / caster plates that aren't out yet.
Adding caster enhances the self-centering of the steering, and dynamically adds negative camber as you turn the steering wheel (a very good thing).
And, the cheapest and easiest way to make a handling improvement - a good alignment. Notice that many of the parts I list are there to help get a really good alignment (camber plates, caster). But, even without parts, if you aren't getting your car aligned every year by a good shop to your specs, do that before you start buying parts.
6th Gear
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 3,673
Likes: 2
From: Marsala, Sicily
. Cause here soon....I will be spending alot of time on it....
WHat sort of plans do you have in the works? Just curious...
4th Gear
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 555
Likes: 0
From: North Hollywood, California
Megan catback is great! Love the sound and improved throttle response.
Are you running Ireland camber plates with stock setup? Will they work with the M7 SRP shock tower plates?
Definitely get lighter wheels next I switched out my stock 17 wheels for 15x7 Flik Blasts, removed donut & tire change kit & car feels turbo charged when I accelerate.
I have K&N Typhoon HAI (no heatshield yet), Kingsborne plugs, Hotchkis competition rear sway bar(mid setting) and Fliks Blast 15X7 wheels (11.9lbs- superb mod!).
Best,
T.
Are you running Ireland camber plates with stock setup? Will they work with the M7 SRP shock tower plates?
Definitely get lighter wheels next
I switched out my stock 17 wheels for 15x7 Flik Blasts, removed donut & tire change kit & car feels turbo charged when I accelerate.I have K&N Typhoon HAI (no heatshield yet), Kingsborne plugs, Hotchkis competition rear sway bar(mid setting) and Fliks Blast 15X7 wheels (11.9lbs- superb mod!).
Best,
T.
.would consider and LOVE some 16" minilites if they weren't so DAMN expensive. i got a quote a few weeks back and they were around $1600 or so.
i am running ireland plates with the stock set up. i did this to provide better handling AND control mushrooming. you can use them with the strut tower plates. you're getting double the protection that way. although IMHO camber plates provide better protection than the plates. i have no shrooming at all without tower plates but, am going to get some for piece of mind and bling (craven red plates not the M7)...
anyhow first suspension "mod" i would do if you haven't is ditch the run-flats then the sway bar. as far as my suspension goes the rest is probably staying stock. i had a 90 bronco on a 6" lift and 35" mickey thompsons so the MINI sits low enough for me
. and after all the suspension mods i did to that bronco, i'll hold of on messing too much with suspensions for awhile. maybe when i get my S or classic Mini. but, we have to buy a house first before i can get any more Mini's according to the other half.