So at Painlesswiring.com I saw the neatest things made for hot rod wiring for door speakers and accessories. They were plates with copper contacts made to connect when the door was closed. I was thinking with the addition of a plate next to one of the hinges that you would be able to use this to connect all the lights on the Bonnet without having to plug and unplug wires every time. I thought that using the spot next to the hinge would give the surest fit to the thing and ensure that the contacts always line up properly. I also assume that you likely could add them into the hinges if you were handy enough to further tighten the fit.



http://www.painlesswiring.com/webcatalog.php

 

I had similar thoughts regarding quick-disconnect electrical connections for a flip-front bonnet. What amperage are those connectors rated for? Wiring for speakers and door/window controls will not have the same amount of power running through it the headlight wiring will.

I would personally prefer a more positive connection - a pair of 4-terminal trailer connectors, perhaps? These would provide a solid, weatherproof connection that could be easily disconnected if total bonnet removal was desired.

Trailer connectors are cheap too.

Edit: Ok... found them on the website... 60 amps per lead... Yeah... those could work... although given the flexible nature of a fiberglass bonnet to chassis connect, I wonder if keeping the contacts lined up may be an issue. I'd still go with the trailer connector or one of Painless's "Weatherpack" connectors.

 

I used two flat four-wire trailer connectors. Much cheaper and easier to install and disconnect. Why make it more difficult than it is?