I am now to the stage where I am going to rebuild my Clutch master and slave cylinders.

Here is the current slave configuration on my car......



It appears to be a verto slave cylinder using a Pre-verto hose, & mounting configuration. The return spring is looped around the rear of the slave cylinder. The clutch worked fine in the past. Although this is an incorrect setup is there any reason why it would not be functional?

I have thought about putting in the correct Pre-verto slave cylinder. I understand there is a return spring bracket on the slave cylinder end that I would need - can someone please post a picture of the correct setup for a Pre-verto clutch showing the return spring mounting?

My Mini is 1979. I purchased a clutch master cylinder rebuild kit for a late model master and received the dust boot, a seal that goes on the piston; however, the seal for the end of the spring was a solid seal as opposed to the seal with a hole in the center that was inside my master cylinder.

See seal shown in upper right of pix



I discussed the issue with a mini parts supplier and we came to the conclusion that I needed the 'early" type rebuild kit. I received the following:



This kit has a plastic piece included that does not exist in my master cylinder. However the other seals seem to match what I have - although I have opened the package yet.

Any ideas on what direction I should take???

I have thought about buying this...... although I feel like I am throwing money at a problem that I do not know how to fix.

http://www.minimania.com/web/Item/GRK3007/InvDetail.cfm

Any help or direction would be appreciated

 

Yeah, maybe the parts are not intended to be used together but if it works, why not? A slave cylinder is very simple ... as long as it's mounted so that it can fully engage and disengage the clutch with the throw provided by the pedal, I don't see why you'd have any problem. That being said, I don't have an understanding of the differences between verto and pre-verto clutch setups. Perhaps there's some subtle difference that would prevent it from working correctly long term

I say go for it

Oh, and I _may_ still have the old pre-verto slave cylinder from when I was trying to resolve clutch issues last year. If I can find it, and you want it, I'd be happy to donate it to the cause I'll let you know if I find it this weekend.

Jeff

 

The Verto sits on a metal bracket attached n the motor & wok cover on an angle. See bottom of diagram


The Pre-Verto mounts directly.

My motto: Do it once - Do it right
This will cost you less time, money & labor in the long run.

Get the correct one. They're not that expensive ($40-$50). You can see the distortion of your spring. Eventually it will fatigue and break (at the least convenient moment).


The return spring anchor on this one is teardrop shaped with one hole big enough for the bleed screw to go through. The smaller end has a small hole for the return spring to attach. Easily made from if you don't have one.



While you're working on it, make sure the clevis pins and yokes they mount through are not worn. If they are, replace.


The white plastic piece sits in the end of the MC inner spring. The following kit is listed for
CLUTCH MASTER KIT '78 ON

Item No. A-BHM7127 $8.50

 

Thanks for the help.....

Minimad... My clutch master did not have the plastic piece on the end of the spring; however the seals match up to what I have. I assume that I am OK to rebuild including the plastic piece.

I do not know how long this configuration has been in place. I bought the car 4 years ago after it came over from England. I have learned a lot about what I would do differently if I ever buy another now that I have torn one down to the sheet metal - amazing what you learn and find! The car has been stored for the last 2 years and I only put 2,000 miles on it. The spring is definitely distorted the way it is mounted. Sounds like its time for a new "correct" slave.