Replacing suspension parts
Replacing suspension parts
I need to replace the cones on my Mini and I was wanting to upgrade to the springs but I don't know what i need to buy. Also I was wondering if I could just put Hi-Lo's on my car or would i have to have a spring or cone with it. Any help is appreciated. Thanks
Also I was wondering if I could just put Hi-Lo's on my car or would i have to have a spring or cone with it.
I was thinking about getting the springs because they do last longer but they are also expensive....I think I might get the hi-los first and just wait to do anything until I've got all the parts I need.
I would recommend replacing ball joints, bushes, steering rod ends, knuckle joints etc as long as you've got it all apart.
The cones + trumpets can be taken out without a spring compressor, but it can be a pain in the a$$. I imagine it's a lot easier to get out if the trumpet can be separated from the cone, but mine were stuck tighter than a rusty barnacle.
Also, get one of these: http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00996404000P

Pickle forks are for pickles, not ball joints.
Brian
The cones + trumpets can be taken out without a spring compressor, but it can be a pain in the a$$. I imagine it's a lot easier to get out if the trumpet can be separated from the cone, but mine were stuck tighter than a rusty barnacle.
Also, get one of these: http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00996404000P
Pickle forks are for pickles, not ball joints.
Brian
Last edited by qskapunk; Nov 18, 2008 at 11:38 AM.
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That's all I could thing of off the top of my head. Most of those parts aren't too expensive, just shop around for the best prices.
Might want to get a t
Here's a list of what I did last year:
Ball joints
Bearings - Don't really have to replace these but you'll at least want to repack them, new oil seals will probably be needed since it can be hard to get them out without damaging them
Tie rod bushings
Bump stops
Lower arm bushings
Lower arm pivot pins - only really need to replace if the threads are a little chewed up like mine were
Upper arm repair kit - more than likely your shaft is going to be a little chewed up - the bearings can be a pain in the *** to get out from the arm, but I used a dremel to carefully grind through the wall of the bearing until you can pry it out with a screwdriver
Shocks
Knuckle joints - check the metal cup part of the arms where these go into to make sure its not worn
CV boots - good idea especially if your's are cracked or look like they'll be cracked soon
Steering rack boots - get some fresh grease in there
Track rod ends
I think that's about it, it seems like a lot, but it's a lot of little things that are easier to do all at once while you've got it apart
Might want to get a t
Here's a list of what I did last year:
Ball joints
Bearings - Don't really have to replace these but you'll at least want to repack them, new oil seals will probably be needed since it can be hard to get them out without damaging them
Tie rod bushings
Bump stops
Lower arm bushings
Lower arm pivot pins - only really need to replace if the threads are a little chewed up like mine were
Upper arm repair kit - more than likely your shaft is going to be a little chewed up - the bearings can be a pain in the *** to get out from the arm, but I used a dremel to carefully grind through the wall of the bearing until you can pry it out with a screwdriver
Shocks
Knuckle joints - check the metal cup part of the arms where these go into to make sure its not worn
CV boots - good idea especially if your's are cracked or look like they'll be cracked soon
Steering rack boots - get some fresh grease in there
Track rod ends
I think that's about it, it seems like a lot, but it's a lot of little things that are easier to do all at once while you've got it apart
Actually, the springs aren't all that much more than the replacement cones IIRC - the last time I priced them I believe they were fairly comparable, money-wise, to the lowest-performing spring (which is firmer than a cone from all reports).
Seeing as how the "official" recommendation is to replace the rubber cones every 5-7 years, 10 tops, replacing worn cones with springs (which should last longer) seems the much more logical choice. Hi-Los are still desirable IMHO since they allow you to fine-tune your car's stance, but if you're swapping out the cones for springs then one opf the Hi-Lo's main advantages - the ability to independently raise/lower each individual corner to compensate for sagging rubber cones - goes away.
At least you have one big advantage: a family member who is a mechanic who can install all those various bits. I watched my friend Paul disassemble my left wheel assembly so I could replace the CV boot there (repacking the bearings along the way) and I can tell you that, while not exactly COMPLEX, the process was definitely something I wouldn't have tackled on my own with just a Haynes book. For someone like your Dad, the Mini's frint end is likely pretty simplistic...
Seeing as how the "official" recommendation is to replace the rubber cones every 5-7 years, 10 tops, replacing worn cones with springs (which should last longer) seems the much more logical choice. Hi-Los are still desirable IMHO since they allow you to fine-tune your car's stance, but if you're swapping out the cones for springs then one opf the Hi-Lo's main advantages - the ability to independently raise/lower each individual corner to compensate for sagging rubber cones - goes away.
At least you have one big advantage: a family member who is a mechanic who can install all those various bits. I watched my friend Paul disassemble my left wheel assembly so I could replace the CV boot there (repacking the bearings along the way) and I can tell you that, while not exactly COMPLEX, the process was definitely something I wouldn't have tackled on my own with just a Haynes book. For someone like your Dad, the Mini's frint end is likely pretty simplistic...
Does anyone know if this kit will work for my Mini?
http://www.minispares.com/Product.aspx?ty=pb&pid=33341
http://www.minispares.com/Product.aspx?ty=pb&pid=33341
Information on Cones and tools can be found here:
http://www.minimania.com/web/SUBTYPE..._Inventory.cfm
Another option could be:

OR
http://www.minimania.com/web/SUBTYPE..._Inventory.cfm
Another option could be:

OR
Anyone tried these????
[SIZE=6]GBCarParts.com[/SIZE]


[SIZE=1]Click image for larger picture & more details[/SIZE]Hi-Lo Suspension Kit - Full Set
In Stock: 4
Details
Hi-Lo Adjustable Suspension Kit. Full car kit, front and rear included. Enables ride height adjustment at each corner. Also available as front only & rear only kits.
Price: $99.95
or these????
Budget adjusta-ride kit
New to Moss Europe Ltd is a complete set of budget adjuster rides. Polished alloy finish front and rear with bars.Part #PriceDescriptionApplicationQty
RqdQty 117-369 $204.95 Polished alloy adjuster ride kit (front & rear)
[SIZE=6]GBCarParts.com[/SIZE]
[SIZE=4]Parts & Accessories for Minis and more[/SIZE]

[SIZE=1]Click image for larger picture & more details[/SIZE]Hi-Lo Suspension Kit - Full Set
In Stock: 4
Details
Hi-Lo Adjustable Suspension Kit. Full car kit, front and rear included. Enables ride height adjustment at each corner. Also available as front only & rear only kits.
Price: $99.95
or these????
Budget adjusta-ride kit
New to Moss Europe Ltd is a complete set of budget adjuster rides. Polished alloy finish front and rear with bars.Part #PriceDescriptionApplicationQtyRqdQty 117-369 $204.95 Polished alloy adjuster ride kit (front & rear)
I purchased a set of new cones for my rebuild. I too am debating on whether to put in HiLo's since I have everything apart and the subframes out. I have seen what essentially look like the same HiLo's priced from $100 - $200. Some are even higher at $300 - just for the HiLo's (no cones).
I was wondering if anyone had used these. I have always believed that on many items you get what you pay for - but these are just machined parts. Perhaps there is a material difference for the extra money. Then I guess my question is what am I getting for the extra $$.
On a similar note - does anyone know where I can find a list of torque settings for suspension components??
I was wondering if anyone had used these. I have always believed that on many items you get what you pay for - but these are just machined parts. Perhaps there is a material difference for the extra money. Then I guess my question is what am I getting for the extra $$.
On a similar note - does anyone know where I can find a list of torque settings for suspension components??
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