Sorry to be off topic but what kind of mount are you using to hold that device below the center speedo?

 

The DoS N14 Seafoam Fogger kit does reduce existing carbon and progressively eliminates it if you use the fogger with every Seafoam treatment.

If you've never Seafoamed your MINI before or had a carbon cleaning, we recommend doing two treatments in a row. This means that you'll administer the entire spray can during the first time you use the kit.

The kit does have an atomizing nozzle. This creates more complete atomization than the red spray tube provided by Seafoam. It also gives more long lasting results than glugging the non spray stuff into your PCV hose. -- Our atomizing nozzle leaves no chance of getting a CEL while you do the treatment and cleans your throttle body every time you clean your intake valves.

Our kit is a one man system that allows you to actuate the throttle while administering the Seafoam to your MINI. This allows you to easily hold the RPMs at the required 1500 to 2000 RPM's above normal idle -- allowing for maximum coating of the intake valves with the cleaner.

The smoke cloud can be pretty bad on MINIs with heavy carbon buildup. If you're concerned about making your neighbors pissed, you can always take your MINI out for a short spirited drive instead of just revving in the driveway or parking garage.

Schomp MINI has been using our kit with great results and will offer it as an in stock item in their parts department in the near future.

-----

Lastly, folks have been asking for before and after pictures. We're on it and will be adding them to our website shortly. Despite a temporary lack of after photos, know that we are basing our findings from two real world factors: 1. Tester and early adopter reports (individual and MINI dealership techs) of improved fuel economy (+3 to +7 MPG) and 2. Consistent reports of improved throttle response/power after Seafoam treatment on MINIs with heavy carbon buildup.

-Clint

 

Do you think a kit like this from NAPA would work ok in the PCV valve if I wanted a kit to do all the cars in my house? I just wonder how well the end would seal with our psuedo clamp style.

 

Guys, this is something thats not very common in the UK

Would I need to do this on my 2011 Cooper Clubman with 15k on the clock?

Its not a Cooper S, a normally aspirated Cooper. And how soon after should the oil be changed?

Thanks in advance

Mark

 

This treatment for carbon build up on the back of the valves is not an issue with the straight Cooper. This is a problem with the DI engine of the "S" model, especially the N14 engine.

This type of Seafoam treatment does not necessitate an oil change. The Seafoam never reaches the oil. Often, owners do this treatment around the time they do oil changes. It is a reminder.

 

well i have read all 19 pages and just have one question.i just got my 2012 with 5000km on it.i will be running chevron 94 octane all the time but should i do a sea foam treatment?? i bought a demo from dealer so not sure what the sales guy ran in car for fuel or how he drove it.any help would be great thanks !!!!!!

 

Carbon build up isn't a function of the brand or octane of gasoline used.

It is caused by oil vapor burning on the backs of the intake valves on direct injection engines because the fuel is sprayed directly into the combustion chamber, bypassing the intake valves. Unlike port injected engines, where fuel is sprayed into the intake ports and gasoline can wash the oil off of the intake valves before it can burn into carbon residue.

I haven't read any complaints about carbon build up on 2011 and up N18 engines.

I suspect that the new heads with the dual VANOS system and different Engine Control Unit programming may have eliminated the problem.

Dave

 

Thanks Dave that makes perfect sense.im new to these motors so all is new ..cheers

 

Just used the spray sea foam in the PCV tube. Its been 30 min. Going out to start her up and see how she runs(after the smoke show that is.

2009 JCW Clubman Chili Red

 

i didn't bother to read through the whole thread, but is there any reason not to do it on the intake side of the turbo?

i've done it to everything i own with great results, just never to anything that had an intercooled turbo...

 

I would think, unless the intercooler was hot from a hard run, that most of the Seafoam would just pool at the bottom of the intercooler, then be released slowly as vapor as the engine warmed during operation, resulting in nothing more than a poorly running engine until it was gone. To do any good at all, the Seafoam has to contact the valves as a liquid. That said, unless you are using the Seafoam in an effort to keep an already clean (or recently de-carboned) engine clean,(the DoS kit might help here), you are (IMHO) wasting your time. After 2 Seafoam treatments in one week and then finally cleaning the valves manually a month later because the stumble would not go away, it looked to me that all 2.5 years worth of carbon was still there.

Jon in SC

 

good point, i figured the intercooler would just act as a big catch can. i know seafoam isn't a cure all, but i figured it wouldn't be a bad idea since the car is new to me and i don't really know the history of it.

when i did my 65 t-bird it was pretty cool, definitely helped me find the exhaust leaks, but not as cool as when i did it on my old bronco after a rollover:

 

Been having intermittent CEL issue. It would come on for a few days then go off. Then a few days later it would come back on. It also had an occasional stumble while driving. I bit the bullet and purchased a OBD reader and got the code P0014, Exhaust Camshaft Position Timing - Over-Advanced, as saved and P0015, Exhaust Camshaft Position Timing - Over-Retarded, as pending. For no other reason than IU had just read about it on here I did a SeaFoam treatment. When I drove it the CEL flashed for a bit and then went off. A lot of smoke. Afterwards I pulled codes again and had misfire in cylinders 1 and 2 pending, and a B2aaa code. I cleared the codes and will check them again in a couple of days.

 

Did my N12 today at 44,100 miles. Wow smoked up the whole neighborhood ! Just took it for a spin and seems much smoother on acceleration and idle right at 800 rpm's . Thanks guys!

 

I want to do this but I am just so worried about it. I have heard about Sea Foam and all the good things it does. Even all the Old Timers swear by it.

Does this really work? what does it actually do?
I have a 2005 Mini Cooper S.

Please help?

 

anyone that has ever done this, Please send me a private post so we can chat about it please. Thanks....

 

70k on my 09 MCS and I don't know if the intake has ever been cleaned. I am the second owner and I have not done it. Anyways I Decided to try the Seafoam method here. Once the 5 ounces of Seafoam were in I let sit for 30 mins. After that. Lots of smoke but no CEL. After a spirited jaunt it runs fantastic. Stuttering on initial throttle is gone and everything is smooth. I am a believer now.

I think the real trick is introducing it slowly while capping part of the tube with your finger. I had not hydro lock issues or CEL's. Think I will be doing this every oil change.

 

Just did this - used a spray bottle to manage the speed of putting the Seafoam in, no then when the tube didn't reach any more, slowly poured the last wee bit in. Idles great, about a 100 RPM lower than before. Runs smooth. No CELs so far on a 15 minute drive.

 

hmm, going to try this. So just disconnect the fat black hose and place the red tube in there? Re-attach and spray while the car runs?

I think eventually I will go with the DOS purchase, but not this month.

I did the spray down the pcv hose, but I reconnected and let it idle before shutting the car off. Think I just burned up the seafoam, no smoke. Going to try this the right way in the morning.

 

I did the above method this time with the seafoam spray with the red tube down the big hose. Did not smoke during the treatment but I got some stuttering when heading out of the neighborhood, gunned it and a big plume of white smoke shot out.
Going to drip the liquid next since I have a couple of bottles laying around and I'm starting to research the equipment and procedure for walnut blasting. Harbor freight seems to have everything you need.

Edit: it did seem top run smoother immediately after, but won't really know until it's totally cooled down, then driven.

 

Anybody done this on a 2011 s?

 

So my engine just threw a "cylande 4 misfire" code. It already has knew plugs and the it could be the coil as well although my dealer and I suspect it's carbon build up. I have almost 85k on the beast. They want to charge me about 900 bucks to do the cleaning at the local dealer.

My question is will a few treatments of this clean existing carbon? Or is it more preventative maintenance/light carbon cleaning? I already have the manual cleaning of the valves printed and ready to go. I just thought this might be the easy way. I'm optimistically skeptic :-)

 

Might help a little, but you probably need to manually clean or walnut blast.

 

That's what I was afraid of...Looks like I got a job ahead of me this weekend. Glad this forum has some great write ups on how to do it.

 

After reading this entire thread, here is a checkpoint for those who think this was TL;DR
Here is what you need to perform SeaFoam on your Turbocharged 07+ Cooper S

I've performed this on my car religiously at every oil change interval (4000km). And every time it feels like a brand new car. I have never triggered a CEL, or fouled my plugs, but of course every car is different, so I can't guarantee that this won't happen to you.

But in any case, SeaFoam is a highly combustible organic solvent, plus when you apply this method with an aerosol can, you would have to do something extraordinary to hydrolock your engine. The pure liquid SeaFoam you get in jugs will require more attention. So for the greenest shade mechanics, I would suggest using the aerosol can.

1. start the car, let it warm up a bit. Maybe even go for a short drive around the block just to be sure.

2. Disconnect PCV on the "top" of the engine. It is located at the top left corner of the engine when you are facing it. It is between the airbox and engine cover. Refer to the video if not sure.

3. After you disconnect the PCV, immediately cover the tube opening with your thumb. That thing is going to suck air like a hoover. If you don't cover it, the engine will stall due to the vacuum leak, or too much air being sucked into the engine.

4. Open your thumb to let a bit of a gap, grab the SeaFoam spray can, use the red feeder tube included, and start spraying into the tube.

5. The Seafoam aerosol can is 12oz, and the suggested treatment is 5oz, so in stead of doing some complicated math to find out how much that is, just go with half a can (6oz). In my experience, half a can is spraying for a straight two minutes.

6. Now that you are done spraying, put your thumb back on the tube, and have someone shut the car off for you.

7. Right before the shut the car off, spray into the PCV tube about 3 more seconds. Maybe even let it spray for 1 to 2 seconds into the tube AFTER the car shuts off.

8. Reconnect the tube, and let the car sit for 20 ~ 30 minutes. Some people leave it overnight, or even for a few hours. But I wouldn't suggest that because SeaFoam is a volatile solvent. It'll work quickly, but it'll also leave quickly.

9. After a couple of beers, come back to the car, and start it up. The car may or may not be puffing smoke, this is not an indication of whether or not SeaFoam worked for you.

10. Don't just let it idle, go for a spirited drive. By spirited, I mean keep the car revving above 5000 rpm. You can also sit in a parking lot and rev the living daylights out of the car. If it does not annoy neighbors, authorities, or passer-by. Because not only will you be creating noise, you will also be pumping a bit of smoke.

11. After a few minutes the smoke should subside and you can carry on with your daily lives


NOTES (By god please read them):

- SeaFoam is a highly combustible organic solvent that is volatile and somewhat corrosive. Please take the necessary precautions for handling such a liquid. Eye protection and gloves recommended if this is your first time.

- The smoke is caused by NAPHTA, which is an oil. When oil burns, it creates a lot of smoke. This is NOT an indication of how much carbon deposit you've removed from your intake valves.

- The only way of measuring the amount of carbon you removed is to take a look at your exhaust. Wash your exhaust tips before performing the SeaFoam treatment. And watch soot pile up and even fly out/drip down your exhaust tip. Here is the AFTER picture of how much soot is coming out post-treatment.