R60 1500 miles.... CHECK!!! Oil change?
2nd Gear
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 58
Likes: 1
Thanks for the info FredoinSF that make me less paraniod about changing it myself, figured big brother would try to take my mini service away
The act of changing the oil does not reset the service indicator (SI). There is a procedure to go through to reset it. It will vary depending on whether you have MINI Connected / nav or not.
I don't reset the SI unless the BMW / MINI says it's time. That's why the 7,500 miles oil changes are a good idea because it's usually about halfway through the recommended service. This way you also get the "free" service from MINI.
BTW, maintenance is more than just motor oil. Here is my rough schedule:
- Brake fluid - Every 2 years (no mileage dependency)
- Coolant - Every 4 years or 50k
- Manual trans fluid- Every 30 to 35k
- Auto trans - Every 50k (it's what I did on the Jeep, but I think it would work for these cars as well)
- Differential and transfer case - Every 30 to 35k (smae as manual trans fluid)
- Power steering fluid - every 3 to 4 years - whenever there is another service and it's convenient
- Air and pollen filter - every 2 years or 30k whichever is less
- Fuel filter, plugs, belts - per manufacturer or 100k max
Since I have my own schedule I treat the BMW / MINI inspections as oil changes plus whatever else may be needed at the time. Believe it or not, I actually save quite a bit of money with this schedule. The only thing I do myself are oil changes, simple filter changes, and brakes. Anyhting else and it goes to the independent BMW repair shop.
I don't reset the SI unless the BMW / MINI says it's time. That's why the 7,500 miles oil changes are a good idea because it's usually about halfway through the recommended service. This way you also get the "free" service from MINI.
BTW, maintenance is more than just motor oil. Here is my rough schedule:
- Brake fluid - Every 2 years (no mileage dependency)
- Coolant - Every 4 years or 50k
- Manual trans fluid- Every 30 to 35k
- Auto trans - Every 50k (it's what I did on the Jeep, but I think it would work for these cars as well)
- Differential and transfer case - Every 30 to 35k (smae as manual trans fluid)
- Power steering fluid - every 3 to 4 years - whenever there is another service and it's convenient
- Air and pollen filter - every 2 years or 30k whichever is less
- Fuel filter, plugs, belts - per manufacturer or 100k max
Since I have my own schedule I treat the BMW / MINI inspections as oil changes plus whatever else may be needed at the time. Believe it or not, I actually save quite a bit of money with this schedule. The only thing I do myself are oil changes, simple filter changes, and brakes. Anyhting else and it goes to the independent BMW repair shop.
Changing the oil before the recommended change interval also depends on manufacturer. Honda's have a computer that tells you the oil life and when you need to change the oil. Even with a new vehicle, they strongly recommend going by the computer and not changing it any earlier than 30% oil life remaining. This is because of the special oil formulation they use in new vehicles. I don't know if BMW/Mini does something similar, but based on information here and elsewhere, there doesn't appear to be anything different about the initial oil.
Regardless, no car taking just a little over 4qts of oil with a small filter should go 15,000 miles before a change. But then again, even Porsche recommends a 20k or 2yr oil change interval, and they are way more expensive machines, so maybe there's something to it.
Regardless, no car taking just a little over 4qts of oil with a small filter should go 15,000 miles before a change. But then again, even Porsche recommends a 20k or 2yr oil change interval, and they are way more expensive machines, so maybe there's something to it.
3rd Gear
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 289
Likes: 0
From: East Hampton, NY
Sir Bikes, I don't know how the Honda computer works but if it's anything like the one in my former Tahoe then it's just another idiot light scheduled to illuminate at a predetermined time since the last reset thereof.
According to the first O/A on my CM the viscosity was low at 1212 miles. Blackstone even suggested the factory used a lower viscosity oil. Most likely a break-in oil. Is it smart to run a lighter break in oil for 12 months in a CM that only holds 4.4 qts and gets super hot ? IMo, I think not.
I'm waiting to see the viscosity results of the Mini Synthetic O/A with 3600 miles on it. From there I'll decide at what interval I'll perform future oil changes. The vehicle is not driven hard as it is my wife's daily driver and that's not her driving style.
One thing I will reiterate is I was surprised at how hot the oil was at operating temperature. I was speaking to my marine diesel mechanic about it and about oil changes in general.
He suggested the best time to do an oil change is not when the engine is hot and recently shut down. Of course the oil will drain out quicker when it's hot, however he brought up a good point. He said that if you change the oil in the morning (when the engine is cold) then all of the impurities in the oil will have drained down into the oil pan and not circulated through the engine as they would be if you ran it up to O/T and shortly thereafter dumped the oil.
--Hobie
According to the first O/A on my CM the viscosity was low at 1212 miles. Blackstone even suggested the factory used a lower viscosity oil. Most likely a break-in oil. Is it smart to run a lighter break in oil for 12 months in a CM that only holds 4.4 qts and gets super hot ? IMo, I think not.
I'm waiting to see the viscosity results of the Mini Synthetic O/A with 3600 miles on it. From there I'll decide at what interval I'll perform future oil changes. The vehicle is not driven hard as it is my wife's daily driver and that's not her driving style.
One thing I will reiterate is I was surprised at how hot the oil was at operating temperature. I was speaking to my marine diesel mechanic about it and about oil changes in general.
He suggested the best time to do an oil change is not when the engine is hot and recently shut down. Of course the oil will drain out quicker when it's hot, however he brought up a good point. He said that if you change the oil in the morning (when the engine is cold) then all of the impurities in the oil will have drained down into the oil pan and not circulated through the engine as they would be if you ran it up to O/T and shortly thereafter dumped the oil.
--Hobie
Did you mean a higher viscosity oil, like Mobil's 0W-40? I used Mini's OEM oil for my first oil change, but I think I'm going with the 0W-40 from now on. That's a good oil.
3rd Gear
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 289
Likes: 0
From: East Hampton, NY
Apologies, should have stated "lighter viscosity" I believe what Blackstone meant was a lighter grade oil was used at the factory.
1200 miles should be nothing on the Mini Synthetic Extended Interval API SM which leads me to believe Blackstone was correct unless the heat from the turbo is shearing the viscosity of the oil. If that were the case, 1200 miles would have me concerned.
Therefore, I'm dying to see what the latest O/A reveals. Should be any day.
As I said, I will post up the report.
And yes the Mobil 1 SAE 0W-40 European Formula Full Synthetic is a good oil.
--Hobie
1200 miles should be nothing on the Mini Synthetic Extended Interval API SM which leads me to believe Blackstone was correct unless the heat from the turbo is shearing the viscosity of the oil. If that were the case, 1200 miles would have me concerned.
Therefore, I'm dying to see what the latest O/A reveals. Should be any day.
As I said, I will post up the report. And yes the Mobil 1 SAE 0W-40 European Formula Full Synthetic is a good oil.
--Hobie
5th Gear
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 777
Likes: 1
just thought id chime in, i changed my oil after 2000 miles on my countryman and the same on my 02 mini cooper s when it was new
now my mini cooper S i have changed the oil every 15000 miles and what do ya know i have over 200,000 miles on it and its the same stock engine running a 19% reduction pully and still pulles close to 20psi of vacume at idle. cylinder walls when inspected are in great shape and no oil burning is present. never had a failure.
you can say what you want but moddern engines with modern oils are amazing and my engine is proof of that.
now the oil i run in the mini may have something to do with it not sure.
i have used royal purple and amsoil in the past and have never had any issues. miles keep coming and she still pulls strong as ever! now this being a turbo engine and heat being a factor i plan on changing my oil every 5 to 10 thousand miles.
the supercharger had its own oil and that stuff is speacial and is different than standard engine oil...... the turbos use are engine oil and the heat generated brakes it down faster, the newer mini engines are a different beast alltogether.
now my mini cooper S i have changed the oil every 15000 miles and what do ya know i have over 200,000 miles on it and its the same stock engine running a 19% reduction pully and still pulles close to 20psi of vacume at idle. cylinder walls when inspected are in great shape and no oil burning is present. never had a failure.
you can say what you want but moddern engines with modern oils are amazing and my engine is proof of that.
now the oil i run in the mini may have something to do with it not sure.
i have used royal purple and amsoil in the past and have never had any issues. miles keep coming and she still pulls strong as ever! now this being a turbo engine and heat being a factor i plan on changing my oil every 5 to 10 thousand miles.
the supercharger had its own oil and that stuff is speacial and is different than standard engine oil...... the turbos use are engine oil and the heat generated brakes it down faster, the newer mini engines are a different beast alltogether.
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